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How Do I Connect My Subs?


RoLLa 3

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Okay people i have two 10" subs

the specs of them:

General TS-A2511

Short description 3-way TS-A Series

Features TS-A2511

Frequency response 25 - 30.000 Hz

Sensitivity (1W/1m) 93 dB

Maximum Power 400 Watt

Nominal input power 100 Watt

Speaker Size 285,0 mm

Woofer size (cm) 25 cm

Woofer material IMPP Cone Woofer with Butyl Rubber Edge

Midrange size (mm) 66,0 mm

Midrange material cone mid-range with Ferrite magnet

Tweeter size (mm) 18,0 mm

weak i know but thats all i need for know....

i want to run both off the one amp, i have no idea how to though havnt got an amp yet, could some1 tell me what amp i should be looking for?

2 channel-

4 channel-

monoblock-

no idea

is this the correct way to connect 2 subs to an amp:

post-6338-1201949174_thumb.jpg

THANKS HEAPS p.s soz bought spelling :rolleyes:

Edited by RoLLa 3
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Mate, i've removed your other topic, you dont need to start a new topic about something, and then start another topic asking for help with the first topic, its not welcome, please dont do it again.

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ive done this before on my old car. i had 2x10inch 400watt subs in a ported box... which was about 7 years ago now... but im not a full expert on this subject but it wasnt that hard to figure out... so consider this advice as no frills "sub install for dummys".

USE AS A GUIDE ONLY. your car audio store would understand your needs more than myself.

ok.. youve got 2 subs (i assume they are both in the same box?)both handle a max 400 watts.. so 400+400 = 800watts max total.

since you have 2x 10 inch subs that handle a max of 400 each, find an 2 channel amp or a 4 channel amp that can be bridged into 2 channels (that is right, isnt it? i forget the terms coz its been years since i did this).

you dont want a mono amp.

mono amp = 1 channel = 1 sub.

only use mono amps for powering just one sub.

so to get this straight,

1 sub = 1 channel.

you have 2 subs... so you need 2 channels.

2 be on the safe side, find an 2 channel amp that has 600 watts max

(which really means it feeds a maximum of 300watts each channel.)

if you end up getting a 4 channel (like i did b4), you would end up with 4channels sending 150watts per channel. you can bridge the 4 channels , turning it into 2 channels, then youre basically giving each sub 300watts).

what to i mean by bridging 4 channels into 2??

NORMAL USE OF 4 CHANNEL AMP LOOKS LIKE THIS: (ignore the dots and look at where the verticle lines are going

A M P L I F I E R

CHANNEL 1..........CHANNEL 2..........CHANNEL 3..........CHANNEL 4

(+).(-).................(+).(-)................(+).(-)............(+).(-)

.|.....|....................|....|..................|....|.................|..|

.|.....|....................|....|..................|....|.................|..|

.|.....|....................|....|..................|....|.................|..|

.|.....|....................|....|..................|....|.................|..|

(+).(-).................(+).(-)................(+).(-)............(+).(-)...

SPEAKER 1........SPEAKER 2.......SPEAKER 3.......SPEAKER 4

BRIDGING LOOKS LIKE THIS: (this is what your set up should look like if you end up getting a 4 channel amp)

A M P L I F I E R

CHANNEL 1 CHANNEL 2 CHANNEL 3 CHANNEL 4

..(+)...(-)..............(+)...(-).............(+)...(-)...............(+)...(-)

....\ ............................./ .................\ ............................../

.....\ .......................... / ...................\ ............................/

......\ ........................./..................... \ ........................../

......(+)....................(-)......................(+)....................(-)

......SUBWOOFER 1.................................SUBWOOFER 2

why only 600 watts when your subs add upto 800watts?? why not buy a 1000 watt amp?

i was advised to buy a 600 watt amp so i wouldnt risk blowing up my subz because i fed them too much power.

if you had a 600watt max amp that sent the maximum of 300 watts each channel, your subs would still be strong enough to handle 100% of what your amp can pump into em.

if you got a 1000watt amp and set it to full blast, you wouldnt expect your subs to last too long, coz your feeding the subs too much power.

youd be sending 500watts sent to a sub that can only handle a max of 400watts... you do the math!

in any case, you shouldnt have your subs set to full blast anyway if you dont want to go deaf.

i hope that explains it..

as 4 the wiring.. get the thickest positive and ground wires you can get for your amp. and dont get cheapo wires either. this is electicity we are talkin about, you dont wanna cut corners on that.

let me know if you something i wrote doesnt make sense ok? took me a while to get the diagrams looking the way i wanted.

EDIT-

I JUST NOTICED your description says NOMINAL watts = 100watts.. so that means 200 watts would be sufficient

Edited by JJCRU23R
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thanks that straightened some stuff out, the subs are boxed together, for the amp i might start looking 2channel would be cheaper ey? dno.. the amp would have an off switch yeh? coz i dnt want the subs on all the time... (shared car)

also 4got to mention is there away of running the amp and subs off a seperate battery?

and is bridging the amp from 4 to 2 channel bad for the amp or anything? does it make subs sound different?

Edited by RoLLa 3
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the amp would have a "remote" wire, which should connect to your headunit.

if you have an aftermarket stereo, then it would probebly have a remote wire coming out of it. if you connected it correctly, then the amp should only switch on when the stereo is switched on.

if you only have the stock head unit, you will have to connect it to some other wire (i forgot which 1).. and i am not 100% sure whether the amp would turn off... i think it stays on though.

one thing you can do in that case is to install an on/off switch along the remote wire. thats the only sure way you would be able to turn the amp off.

you could try installing a capacitor.. although theres lots of debate whether you should buy that or simply buy a higher quality car battery.

adding a 2nd battery would be a bit much.. how much are you planning on installing into your car besides the amp and 2 subs?

bridging doesnt do anything wrong to the amp. if you want to work 2 subs on a 4channel amp, thats the only way you can get the most watts to the sub. it was part of the instructions from my amp anyway.. its not a frankenstein job that i made up...or you could just go and get a 2 channel amp instead.

ive noticed the mono amps are more expensive.. 2 channel amps are 2nd most expensive and 4 channel amps workout to be cheaper option (based on watts per channel).

the thing about 4 channel amps is that they can be pretty big compared to a 2 channel or a mono.. so thats another thing you gotta consider.

i think sony have released some digital amps last year.. supposedly smaller and dont create as much heat? more expensive though.

btw, you dont need to buy the most expensive amp! your ears wont notice the difference between a $100 something amp and a $300+ name brand amp.

ive got both a kicker mono amp and a 4 channel avalanche amp in my corolla (from my old landcruiser - where i installed my 2x10inch subs) which i bought from strathfield for $140?.. ive never had a problem with the avalanche yet! as long as it works yea?

Edited by JJCRU23R
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what i mean is that you can use something with even less than 600watts.

hopefully thatll can save you a few more bucks in buying a cheaper sub.

what are your intentions with your subs anyway?

how loud and how often do you plan on playing them LOUD?

which type of music?

Edited by JJCRU23R
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I would suggest a mono block. With sub's you dont need the left and right channels that you get from the other types of amps as the human ear cant determine the direction of freq's that low.

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yea i gotta agree with mopp about the left and right channels... i soldered a RCA adaptor so i can connect my stock stereo to the amps... the rca adaptor needed to be connected to both left and right front speakers.. even if you had an aftermarket stereo with RCA outs it wouldnt make a difference.

as for using a mono amp... the only reason i didnt reccommend connecting a mono amp to 2 subs is just because ive never seen it done b4. i never meant 2 say using a mono amp is wrong.. it just makes more sense 2 me to use a 2 channel amp.

rolla3's wiring diagram looked a bit funny 2 me... looks as though thats how you do it with a mono amp yea?

but yea... just 2 be sure, ask your car audio shop and theyd know for sure.

on a side note...

after having installed new speakers, tweeters n sub in my car, the first thing you gotta do is to go to the drive-in movies if you have one in your area!!!

weve got one in blacktown (western sydney)... just tune your radio to the cinemas frequency and enjoy your new speakerz!

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  • 2 months later...

sorry to bring this up again but if the amp has a lower rms then the subs(100wRMS x2 = 200w) does it matter like will it under power the subs or will i have to find an amp with 100w rms per channel and about 500w max or sumthing?

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underpower? i think in the case of the amps and speakers, being under is kinda better..

i think the only problems you would encounter is if you overload your speakers/subs, or if you wired and grounded things incorrectly.

just do the math and make sure you dont overload the speakers, you should be right.

btw we take no responsability if you stuff it up! lol!

im just telling you whats worked for me.

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underpowering a sub can be bad, not sure why, just remember someone telling me that

i also heard that it was bad! and also not sure why.

i had a temporary amp for my sub (1 week) and the car audio guys told me not to crank it up too loud because my amps were underpowering the sub and it can cause damage.

i never questioned the guy why tho

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