DIY Changing Sprigs

[mono]

Hey everyone im a noobie to this forum..

I know that this has been covered a million times but im looking around and I can't find what I'm looking for..

Wat I want to know is whether it is easy or not to change the springs yourself. Ive got a Corolla Sportivo 04 and i want to replace the stock springs with King lows.

I heard it was ***** easy but i also heard that there are some tricks to watch out for otherwise you can really F&%K it up easily..

I know it's probably been cover everyone so i dont want anyone nagging that its PREVIOUSLY COVEREDD..

if u can all point me in the right direction id appreciate it!! :)

[CHA54]

it's not what I'd call an "easy" job, I'd classify it as "moderate".

Tools you will need include a decent 1/2" drive socket set with breaker bar along with a section of water pipe or similar to get more leverage with the breaker bar. Also some good offset ring spanners and an allen key for the top of the rear shocks. Torque wrench is handy if your torque-elbow hasn't been calibrated lately ;-)

If you have a decent compressor and rattle gun it's a bit easier.

Before the car is off the ground, crack the top nut on the front struts, you can do the rear with ring spanner and allen key.

Jack the car up, put some chassis stands in, then go about removing the strut assemblies from the car.

Remove the wheels, then for the front...

-unbolt the brake line and ABS line from the stut

-Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the strut to the hub, support the hub so it doesn't drop down too far before removing those bolts. If it drops right down it can split the CV boots. I use some sections of 2x4 to support the hub.

-Once that's done, remove the three nuts from the top and pull the strut out of the arch.

To remove the spring, it's highly recommended you use some GOOD spring compressors, I like the type with two claws at each end, they're time consuming but safe to take the pressure out of the spring. I have a good rattle gun so do things the dangerous way by standing on the spring with the strut on the side and undoing the top nut and having the strut fly out :P

Take note of the orientation of the nut etc for the top spring hat so you reassemble it correctly with the Koni's.

If you're using a Koni Yellow front insert, gut the front casing, drill it and install the insert. When re-assembling the strut and spring, you dont really need the spring compressor as the Kings are short and soft enough to compress by pusing down on the top hat while the strut is standing vertically. Get it together and install the new Nyloc top nut. Ensure the spring is lined up in the seat and top hat correctly.

Install the strut to the car in the reverse of the removal instructions. When I bolt up the hub I angle it to get max camber before tightening up the bolts (you should be getting a wheel alignment after all this anyway). Be careful with doing up the nuts for the strut top studs, over torqueing them can snap the studs.

For the rear, you need to remove a bunch of the rear interior which is my most hated part of the job.

-Remove the nut holding the bottom of the strut to the torsion beam, lever the bottom strut eye off the spindle mount, then unbolt the nuts and bolt to get the strut assembly out of the car. I support the torsion beam with a trolley jack before doing this.

-Spring removal is the similar to the front

-Swap the top hat etc over to your new strut and spring, assemble it correctly and install back to the car.

-Install the top nuts and bolt first, then use the trolley jack to get the torsion beam at the correct height so the lower mount slips in place.

-Torque the lower nut correctly, I've seen some people lose that nut when not torqued to factory specs.

I'll post up the torque specs from the factory manual a bit later on.

[51EKA]

It's easy if you got the right tools and now how.

It takes less than two hours for me to change springs on a celica. But I've done it 6 times. :P

Pretty much the hardest part is getting the bolt off the strut and lining up the suspension. Easy to do with a rattle gun, or a BIG allen key and a BIG wrench.

Edited April 29, 2008 by 51EKA

[CHA54]

here you go..

Exploded diagrams with torque specs:

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsl0uxv/zze_front.JPG

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsl0uxv/zze_rear.JPG

And relevant workshop manual sections:

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsl0uxv/zze_front.pdf

http://users.tpg.com.au/adsl0uxv/zze_rear.pdf

[VVTLiR]

Its easier to install coilovers, well good ones like Cusco anyway since they are one unit and don't need to reuse existing components. Just drop out the old shock/spring toghether (no compressor required), then bolt the coilover in, and done. With Cusco they come pre adjusted and tightened for a perfect ride height, so no need to touch.

[CAP]

I have a good rattle gun so do things the dangerous way by standing on the spring with the strut on the side and undoing the top nut and having the strut fly out :P

Have you got that on Video :D

[mono]

WOW thanks for the responses everyone especially rollamods!

To be honest it sounds more complex than i thought. Not hard just alot of things to watch out for and knowing me ill forget to do something stupid like bolting the brake line and ABS line back up haha

I can see you live in brissie.. wanna do it for me? :D

Its easier to install coilovers, well good ones like Cusco anyway since they are one unit and don't need to reuse existing components. Just drop out the old shock/spring toghether (no compressor required), then bolt the coilover in, and done. With Cusco they come pre adjusted and tightened for a perfect ride height, so no need to touch.

Yer i was thinking about coilovers but its too much money to spend on just suspension to be honest. If I had that type of cash I'd get a decent CAI as well as new rims ;) Id rather stick to Kings and once my shocks are worn out, just get Boags shocks for $165 a corner with a lifetime warranty (thats the buy price not including fitting them in)..

Im just wondoring if King lows will be enough <_<