Jump to content

Help with Car Audio please.


Jonathan Martin

Recommended Posts

why sony? they dont have the best wrap in car audio, have u brought them yet of thinking of getting them? i had sony in one of my cars and there pretty ordinary

wouldnt even bother amping the inside speakers if u got those ones just a mono block for the sub

Link to comment
Share on other sites

why sony? they dont have the best wrap in car audio, have u brought them yet of thinking of getting them? i had sony in one of my cars and there pretty ordinary

wouldnt even bother amping the inside speakers if u got those ones just a mono block for the sub

Ok thanks, was just looking at them, what brand would you suggest?

And.. would you amp the back if I put 6 by 9s in?

Edited by Jonathan Martin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

why sony? they dont have the best wrap in car audio, have u brought them yet of thinking of getting them? i had sony in one of my cars and there pretty ordinary

wouldnt even bother amping the inside speakers if u got those ones just a mono block for the sub

Ok thanks, was just looking at them, what brand would you suggest?

And.. would you amp the back if I put 6 by 9s in?

buy some resonalbly decent (dont know your budget) 4 inches or 6 inches in the front and get 6x9's in the rear, with a middle of the line budget go for brands like kenwood, pioneer or even MTX.

that sony sub goes hard i know someone with one in there car so id stick with that...decide weather u want a ported or sealed box then get a 4 channel amp 1000w+ peak and hook that up to yoour front and back speakers aswell

Link to comment
Share on other sites


myztik is right 6's in the back would be fine i didnt know what was in there stock thats all...ummm no sub....if u have an aftermarket head deck i wouldnt bother amping id just get really good speakers if u have a stock head deck id amp get a small 2 channel for them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a few combinations you can go with...

Decent Head Unit - Can't say that enough - One that can supply 50w to each channel MOSFET will be great.

- Front speakers - custom door pods if you wish... if you're handy with MDF or Fibreglassing, go for it... you'd normally place to speakers where the original speaker grill was, because the speakers won't fit in the door frame anymore. The higher the RMS rating, the better the speakers will handle at high volume. Anything with 70w RMS or better would be my pick.

- Rears - Either 6 inch or 6 x 9s - depends on if you wanna buy the adaptor plates for them or not. You'll find a decent set that can handle 90-100w RMS will be the best bet. If you don't want them to make bass, tune the HU's high pass filter to not play anything under 100kz... easy done.

- Amp - Monoblock for Sub only - Anything from 400w RMS to 800w RMS (depending on how fully sic uleh you wanna be). You can go to a Mainstream shop and buy the mainstream brands, or you can go to a specialised audio shop and get the non-mainstream brands which are much better in quality). At the end of the day, it's up to you. Sony, MTX and Alpine seem to have nice amps... I'm currently using an Earthquake amp at the moment and hasn't skipped a beat yet.

- Subs - buy the Amp first, and then buy a sub to suit the amp. (400w RMS amp, pair with a 400w RMS Sub etc). Not rocket science... just good fun :P

It also comes down to SPL or SQ. I'm one for sound quality, as long as the sub punches when it's meant to, I'm happy. I don't go for the h0000j bass and all! Hahahaha. This would ideally suit what you're after mate... from then on, if you want to drive the speakers a bit harder, buy a 4 channel amp that can handle maybe 70-80w RMS per channel and run the speakers off them... would sound awesome.

The cabling I'd be using would be at least 4 gauge cabling - add an extra ground to the chassis from the battery Neg terminal... If you can, run the same sized Neg cable from the amp back to the Neg on the battery for the best grounding (rather than just earthing to the chassis of the car, coz at the end of the day, the Ground goes back to the Neg terminal anyway)

Hope this helps.

Shoot through some questions if you wish :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi all, thanks for your help.

I have decided to go with these

And this headunit: Melbourne SD27

I have already 'half' installed the front speakers, as I'm still in the process of building a custom panel to hold the new speakers as the old standard panels don't fit, I will upload pics with the new design when finished, thanks for your help!

Oh, also will be adding a 4 channel amp later onto the two front and the sub (when I get one) when I have the money, but it should be fine for now

Edited by Jonathan Martin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly mate, I wouldn't be using those speakers... Not too keen on the brand and also they're only 30w RMS. If you're going to put any money into your audio, you need to do it properly the first time and that is by buying a more than decent set of fronts mate... you'd blow those things with an amp.

If you want a respectable setup, don't get anything less than 80w RMS in the fronts... the higher, the better.

... Why Blaupunkt anyway??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol Shan, my speakers are only 75w I think. :P What does that mean? :P

I'd say to disregard spec's and their sheets and make the judgement on speakers using your ears :). Listen to all the brands and pick out which one your ears like best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol Shan, my speakers are only 75w I think. :P What does that mean? :P

I'd say to disregard spec's and their sheets and make the judgement on speakers using your ears :). Listen to all the brands and pick out which one your ears like best.

75w RMS? As if! They nearly blew my EARS OFF!!

... What was the price tag mate? If they're 75w RMS and they produced THAT noise then I bet they're damn expensive!

The same theory always equals out in the end:

"You pay for what you get" hahaha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol Shan, my speakers are only 75w I think. :P What does that mean? :P

I'd say to disregard spec's and their sheets and make the judgement on speakers using your ears :). Listen to all the brands and pick out which one your ears like best.

75w RMS? As if! They nearly blew my EARS OFF!!

... What was the price tag mate? If they're 75w RMS and they produced THAT noise then I bet they're damn expensive!

The same theory always equals out in the end:

"You pay for what you get" hahaha

75W RMS is decent power outtage for speakers, remember they're only 12V and relatively small. Think of big hometheatre speakers which only put out 100W or so, and imagine that in a car.

My front 5 1/4 VDO splits are only 75-odd W RMS, and they sound awesome, as do my 50W 6" JL rears...

I just need a sub so I can take some of the bass load off the speakers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah they are only about that. BUT the thing is what they are rated and what they are getting are 2 completely different things. Hence the reason why I said to ignore the spec sheets. The spilts are getting 400+w rms each side... And also if you remember them, my tweeter are actually heavier than the 6.5in woofers that are in the doors. And you can buy half a supercharger with those splits :P

Go for Kenwood,Thy are the best

You're joking right?

Edited by STYLSH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go for Kenwood,Thy are the best

You're joking right?

Lol Don’t worry about that user Anthony, it is only a spammer, some of the most useless posts I have ever seen, trying to get enough posts to legitimately sell things, it ant goanna work!!

Sorry, back on topic…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah they are only about that. BUT the thing is what they are rated and what they are getting are 2 completely different things. Hence the reason why I said to ignore the spec sheets. The spilts are getting 400+w rms each side... And also if you remember them, my tweeter are actually heavier than the 6.5in woofers that are in the doors. And you can buy half a supercharger with those splits :P
Go for Kenwood,Thy are the best

You're joking right?

So... that'd be the speaker mounted next to the throttle then?? Bloody hell... a tweeter bigger than the woofer...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In planning of changing the amp of your 1991 Toyota Camry Zv, 6x9, just 6 is very common for you to buy.

And in english perhaps?

Actually stop posting completely !! :nono::angry:

Edited by STYLSH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people are talkin in riddles here ay... what the hell's goin on?

Whatever Anthony says - is always gonna be right. His stezza's probably one of the most powerful I've seen ever - it's done properly and professionally too...

But gees, what the hell? As if you'd mention Kenwood and Sony when you're wanting "good" stuff?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 0

      Rav4 Nightmare After Dodgy Mechanic

    2. 0

      Door seals - causing internal leak

    3. 0

      Need Advice please

    4. 19

      FUEL WARNING MESSAGE

    5. 19

      FUEL WARNING MESSAGE

    6. 19

      FUEL WARNING MESSAGE

    7. 0

      Typical Price for a Replacement Key - 2000 Toyota Torago

    8. 19

      FUEL WARNING MESSAGE

    9. 1

      2002 Hilux Engine Replacement

    10. 0

      Transmission clunk

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership