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Posted

Got it, put a new one in fine with no dramas, thanks for the info mr2.

Posted

No problemo. Happy to help out.

  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 9/30/2010 at 1:24 PM, vickyd18 said:

*******************  I HAVE TRIED ALL THE TRICKS HERE ON MY 2005 ALTISE TO NO AVAIL. BUT I NOTICE IN THE VEHICLE HANDBOOK IT SAYS TO RESET ECU BRAIN FOR LOCKING/UNLOCKING, SIMPLY TURN KEY TO 'ON', THEN PRESS 'DOOR' BUTTON ON THE TRANSPONDER. THE DOORS LOCKED AS NORMALLY FOR ME.   HOPE IT DOESNT REGRESS TO BAD HABITS. ************************************

 

Hi,

As of this stage I am facing exactly the same problem, each and every bit of it same, except that I have a 2003 V6, automatic model.

I took it to a registered automobile shop and they fixed the problem at the cost of almost $550, it worked a couple of times as it was meant to but, after a day it started acting up again the same way, the bad way.

Any suggestions as to what you did to make this matter simplified.

Thanks...

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Ok, I just fixed my 2007 series 36 Camry.  I tried all the electronic solutions to no avail, but thanks for all the suggestions, they gave me hope.  I decided to think outside the box and inspect the mechanical aspects.  Bingo!  I noticed that the lock button on the inside of the drivers door didn’t seem to go all the way in as it was meant to.  It would spring out a tiny bit instead of snapping into place.  I removed the door panel and found that with a bit of jiggling I was able to push the lock cable (the lower one) a bit further into the door mechanism.  Button clicks down, fob and door switch work as they should, problem solved, (at least for now).  The other suggestions mentioned here are totally logical and probably the most likely to succeed, but if none of them work for you, check the lock button and cable

Edited by Cwala

Posted

The comments about getting a good result from fiddling with the lock button, and then the problem coming back later, made me think it might not be an electronic issue.  In my case it turns out that it wasn’t.

 

  • 9 months later...
Posted (edited)

My otherwise  "perfect"  Daily driver  - '98 Camry V6  has developed a l problem with it's Central Locking system.   

 At first,  I thought it was (my)  advancing senility,  forgetting to lock the car.... but eventually realized that it was randomly unlocking itself.  First it was only doing it overnight, or a long period of standing,  but became more brazen and would send an   'UNlock'   - ALWAY  unlock,  never LOCK -  pulse to all doors while driving.  This was disconcerting but still safe. 

    Then it started to flash the hazards a couple of times whenever it did this.  Usually twice,   then occasionally /  continuously.... as I drove...  Not a great look  for other traffic !  Oddly enough,  operating a turn signal for a few flashes usually stopped the hazards, as did holding "LOCK"  on the dash swich, - mostly.  That alone is worrying, as it suggests the same module for DOORS,  is affected by turn indicators...

  Due to only having one    (original,  1998 vintage battery...)  remote fob, I've been using the key to lock/unlock,  and this is where the first clue hit me over the head.  Doing either would sometimes result in a series of pulses - usually UNlocking... which points to the lock-switch as being on the way out.  - Very sensitive to the slightest amount of rotation...  So yes,  the switch felt like the villain.  Easy solution;  - Use the fob only.

  Round One:-  ,   a pair of  new  GENUINE  Toyota remote fobs  programmed for Two Stage Unlocking  with the surviving original.

   Nope,  still would totally unlock overnight. 

 Round Two:-    unplugging door-lock switch,  fortunately they missed hiding it,  so only needed to remove driver's door card.😉  Just done that,  so no idea if that will work.  Yet.

 

'Everyone'  blames a faulty actuator for weird faults,  particularly the Driver's door,  but....

 

EDIT.     Anolther evening and morning....   parked all day out in the sun  - previously a sure-fire way to generate the fault -  and it's behaving itself.  I reckon it  always was the switch operated by the door key.  Interesting, as unlike previous vehicles,  turning the key in the lock  ONLY turns the switch,  not the door locking mechanicals.

  - Or to put it another way,  my car is now  100%  "Keyless Entry"  ;)) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by superquag
Update
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Reading other websites indicates that this common locking issue on the 2005 Toyota Camry is due to faulty integration relay board. Part No 82641YC091. Not stocked by Toyota any more. Problem is, where is this circuit board and how is it removed ? I am led to believe that it could be up under dash near fuse panel by drivers side. Can anyone assist please ?

Cheers.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for everyones input.

 

It does seem the problem is due to faulty integration relay board. Part No 82641YC091

 

My 2005 Camry Altise locks work fine atm in winter and we had a warm day 2 days ago and it would not lock but today its ok again as its cold.

I will be checking if there is a dry solder joint on that relay board and if its a faulty relay.

 

Does anyone know how to change the locking to 2 stage locking so the passenger doors lock first then the drivers door?

 

I have read this can be changed but not able to find the sequence online.

 

thanks

Mike

Perth WA 

Posted

I have the same vehicle. The manual page 15 , To enable two stage unlock : 1. Turn headlight switch off. 2. Cylcle ignition switch from Lock to On 3 times in 5 seconds, leaving it On. 3. Pro will appear on the multi-infomation display continuosly for 5 seconds. 4. Operate the power door lock switch to the Unlock position within 5 seconds of Pro appearing. The turn signal lights will flash once to confirm that the two stage unlock has been enabled. 5. Turn ignition switch Off and test the remote controlls. 

To Disable two stage unlock, repeat the above proceedure. Have been thinking of activating mine, but having problems with integrated relay, intermittant horn chirps twice & doors not locking with new Fobs. Car locks with key, yet on occasions still locks with horn chirping twice. 

Posted

Changing to 2 stage locking had no effect to my problem.

Sometimes it will lock when very cold. When it warms up, no go.

I am sure that it is an issue with the integration relay board, possibly a dry joint.

I would like to pull it out and investigate, but no one, including Toyota can tell me where it is !

Can someone point me to the location of this board please?

Posted

I believe the Integrated relay circuit board is located near fuse box on drivers side. Too many panels to play around with for my liking. A neighbour has a Camry 2002 & is willing to help me as he works on his car. If you look for integrated relay, somewhere on this forum, you will see the uploaded pictures of the relay & possible location. Camry 2005 door auctuator problems from another member. 

Posted
22 hours ago, Marla2017 said:

Changing to 2 stage locking had no effect to my problem.

Sometimes it will lock when very cold. When it warms up, no go.

I am sure that it is an issue with the integration relay board, possibly a dry joint.

I would like to pull it out and investigate, but no one, including Toyota can tell me where it is !

Can someone point me to the location of this board please?

From this parts catalogue assuming you have the MCV36 model, the integration relay is on the back side of the fuse block. Look at Scheme 3 - it shows the fuse block is up and to the right of the driver side footwell. I've never dealt with this particular model Camry but it looks more painful to get to than the 3rd and 4th gen camrys where their integration relay, at least for foreign models or the 3rd gens without a security system, was fairly easy to reach. 94-96 3rd gens with a security system had a locally made integration relay placed to the left of the glovebox, 82641-YC021 but yours will be different. It seems that nobody has factory service manuals or even wiring diagrams for aussie models. Gotta love government laws requiring locally built stuff.

Posted

Thanks for that info.

Yes, mine is the MCV36 model. That is the best illustration that I have seen.

It would appear that to remove the Integration relay circuit board is a very difficult job.

I have looked up under there and decided not to attempt to get to it.

I had hoped that it would have been more easily accessible.

Thanks for your response.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

my camry altise 2004 model insists on locking itself constantly while driving or when i want to unlock the doors to get in. i have to be real fast and unlock/pull the door handle at the same time or it will beat me and lock again. while locking itself it flashes the hazards and chirps the horn twice.

just today on a local road during peak hour i was in stop and start traffic and the entire 15 minutes of slow driving it flashed and beeped the entire time, even though it was locked, it kept relocking the entire time. it wasnt until i was out of the jam and driving normally did it stop. it seemed to relent if i was driving at normal speed or was in park. i actually google how to disconnect my horn but came across this thread. i will try some of the ideas. its been a fun read.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Sounds a bit like mine...  go back up and check it out.  Shrt stry,  would activate itself as I drove,  flash hazards and sound horn occasionally...

 

   Remove driver's door card.  Look for a little 2(?)  wire connecter going up TO area of  the door handle.  Unplug.  This takes out the keylock,  which is shorting etc etc. 

  (The  KEY  only activates a SWITCH,  has no physical connetion to door lock mech.....  Only the tailgate is   'Old School'....)

-   so you must have a good alarm fob.    When you do this, to be sure,  leave a window down in case you lock yourself out. !

Posted

Car has new fobs & sometimes (after door actuator replaced), doors will lock ok but then the intermittant fault returns. Two beeps & lights flash. So now I lock door with key, saves having to use key to lock if unsuccessfull 1 st round. Much cheaper than replacing integrated relay. Car lock functions now and does not lock/unlock with alarm sounding. Am happy with final results & no longer worry about doors playing up after midnight etc 👍

  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 1/26/2011 at 11:01 AM, Mr-abc said:

I've noticed I only experiencing that central locking in cold weather condition but hot weather the locks works fine. Very interesting....... :help:

It happens to mine exactly

 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hi all,

Sorry to bump an old thread but I've got a 2006 Camry Altise and it appears to have a similar problem.  Using the keyfob the car unlocks without any issues however it does not lock.  It is also intermittent, sometimes everything works fine and then sometimes I'm unable to lock the car using the keyfob.

I thought I'd start with the most basic checks and tried to replace the battery in the key fob however the battery is soldered into the key fob remote!?  To get around this I have ordered a new key fob for about $30 and I'm waiting for it to arrive.

Can any one offer any advice on where to start trouble shooting this problem?  It's very frustrating to drive the car to the grocery store and then realise you can't lock the car whilst you're doing your shopping.

Unfortunately the key does not work in the door either so it has to be left unlocked.  I recently purchased this car and I suspect there was an attempt to steal it and possibly the barrel has been changed as a result (we only tested the key in the door a few days after the purchase, didn't really think it was going to be a problem)

Any help appreciated!

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