Jump to content

V6 fuel consumption - city driving

Tigz

By Tigz
in RAV4 Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tigz Enthusiast

Tigz

Posted
Posted

Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:


c32kompressor Collaborator

c32kompressor

Posted
Posted

That could be right. I have a 2.4 and the best city driving I get about 8.2 km per litre. But I have had about 6.7Km per litre as well. Yeah in start - stop traffic the RAV seems drink quite a bit. The only thing I've learnt, is to keep my right foot just tapping the accelarator!

Bruster Proficient

Bruster

Posted
Posted (edited)
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Hi Tigz,

i was wondering about this myself and i have been doing a test for the last month:

Week 1: 12.9 l / 100 km city / suburbs driving - normal unleaded

Week 2: 13.5 l / 100 km city / suburbs driving - premium caltex 95 octane

Week 3: 9.1 l / 100 km drove sydney to canberra highway driving - normal unleaded

Week 3: 9.8 l / 100 km drove canberra to sydney highway driving - E10 unleaded

Week 4: 12.3l / 100 km city / suburbs driving - normal unleaded

Week 5: 12.0 / 100 km city / suburbs driving - caltex premium unleaded 95 octane

I dont know why i got 13.5l in week 2 maybe i drove harder than usual but these are the figure have for the last 5 weeks.

i also found tyre pressure plays a big part in fuel consumption...make sure you have around 36 psi at least.

hope this compares with the rest of you guys, i have a ZR6 model.

cheers

Bruster

Edited by Bruster
castr10 Enthusiast

castr10

Posted
Posted

I did some checks a few months ago (posted in another thread) - fyi

Just some updated fuel usage figures I calculated on my RAV ZR6 -

91RON:

1. Stop/start city driving: 13.4 litres/100km

2. Motorway: 9.6 litres/100km

95RON:

1. Stop/start city driving: 12.5 litres/100km

2. Motorway: 8.7 litres/100km

I do drive it hard - so I am quite happy with these figures and will continue to use 95RON since the vehicle appears to drive smoother.


castr10 Enthusiast

castr10

Posted
Posted
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Tigz, for a few months after purchasing my ZR6, I drove it extremely hard - screeching off at the lights and accelerating real hard when overtaking - I was seeing figures like yours. The RAV6 will just eat up the gas when driven hard.

Tigz Enthusiast

Tigz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Tigz, for a few months after purchasing my ZR6, I drove it extremely hard - screeching off at the lights and accelerating real hard when overtaking - I was seeing figures like yours. The RAV6 will just eat up the gas when driven hard.

-- hmmmm, I'll try to ease on the pedal, and see how it goes - will also check the tyre pressure. I'm not into speeding or any of that - the only thing that ever happens with me that could consume more than normal, - sometimes at traffic lights when starting to move, I step a little more on the gas, and it jumps, then I ease it immediately. - it's a 4 out of 10 times occurrence. But definitely driving so much in the CBD, has too many stops / starts that driving the car is no-fun-at-all. The car doesn't even leave the city to enjoy some driving....

will post some updates over the next month or so,,,to compare if anyone else keeps track of this! It's still a money saver - cheaper than public transport, exclude the parking cost....

  • 2 weeks later...
stapo Contributor

stapo

Posted
Posted
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Driving a V6 in Bris Vegas...trying REALLY hard to keep my foot off the throttle...and the tacho BELOW

2000RPM...and I'm still returning 11.68L/100k's over 1500k's (which included 500k's freeway driving)

using Shell V-Power 1 in 4 tankfuls and E-10 the rest of the time... I think that's pretty reasonable for a V6

Wifey's Mazda 3 is getting 10.4L/100k's

castr10 Enthusiast

castr10

Posted
Posted
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Driving a V6 in Bris Vegas...trying REALLY hard to keep my foot off the throttle...and the tacho BELOW

2000RPM...and I'm still returning 11.68L/100k's over 1500k's (which included 500k's freeway driving)

using Shell V-Power 1 in 4 tankfuls and E-10 the rest of the time... I think that's pretty reasonable for a V6

Wifey's Mazda 3 is getting 10.4L/100k's

Thats about right stapo - similar to my figures. Correct me if wrong, I think Shell V power is 98RON. Try using a 95RON from BP or CALTEX and see if your figures improve - mine did.

stapo Contributor

stapo

Posted
Posted
Living in sydney - city areas and driving a V6, - turns it into a fuel guzzler....

27.5 litres drove 161.5Km = 5.87Km per litre, => 17 litres / 100K, - that's with a BP 95Ron

I wonder what stats are out there? - do I have a heavy foot on the pedal.... :whistling:

Driving a V6 in Bris Vegas...trying REALLY hard to keep my foot off the throttle...and the tacho BELOW

2000RPM...and I'm still returning 11.68L/100k's over 1500k's (which included 500k's freeway driving)

using Shell V-Power 1 in 4 tankfuls and E-10 the rest of the time... I think that's pretty reasonable for a V6

Wifey's Mazda 3 is getting 10.4L/100k's

Thats about right stapo - similar to my figures. Correct me if wrong, I think Shell V power is 98RON. Try using a 95RON from BP or CALTEX and see if your figures improve - mine did.

junebug1701 Collaborator

junebug1701

Posted
Posted (edited)

Normally in town I get around 12L/100K's--this is mainly short trips and stop and go traffic. In April I took a road trip and got 8.3L/100K. I can go 684 km's on one tankful and still have plenty of reserve left. Not bad for a V-6!

Oh, and I use the cheap low octane fuel.

Edited by junebug1701
  • 2 weeks later...
Tigz Enthusiast

Tigz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A quick update on stats - so I corrected the way I step on the accelerator - gently - and just tapping keeping the revs less than 2000 generally, that improved economy to 7.30km / litre -> 13.69 litre /100Km. - 10 days ago, I checked the tires pressure, all four were 33psi !!! I adjusted them to 36psi as per Bruster's recommendation, - and that made a good change as well, - now it's upto 8.32Km/litre --> 12.01 litres / 100Km - a statistic that I'm very happy with so far. :clap: Ohh, I also switched to regular unleaded 91Ron - the car lost the punch from BP 95, but at least its economical, and I'm less likely to hit a car while parking B)

Will be going for a drive to Canberra over the weekend - crossing my fingers for better economy on the drive.

Bruster Proficient

Bruster

Posted
Posted
A quick update on stats - so I corrected the way I step on the accelerator - gently - and just tapping keeping the revs less than 2000 generally, that improved economy to 7.30km / litre -> 13.69 litre /100Km. - 10 days ago, I checked the tires pressure, all four were 33psi !!! I adjusted them to 36psi as per Bruster's recommendation, - and that made a good change as well, - now it's upto 8.32Km/litre --> 12.01 litres / 100Km - a statistic that I'm very happy with so far. :clap: Ohh, I also switched to regular unleaded 91Ron - the car lost the punch from BP 95, but at least its economical, and I'm less likely to hit a car while parking B)

Will be going for a drive to Canberra over the weekend - crossing my fingers for better economy on the drive.

Thats great news Tigz, how funny im also going to Canberra this weekend... i might just spot you cruising down the highway.

im hoping to crack the 8.9l / 100 km this weekend, that was my best result last Canberra trip.

Tigz Enthusiast

Tigz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thats great news Tigz, how funny im also going to Canberra this weekend... i might just spot you cruising down the highway.

im hoping to crack the 8.9l / 100 km this weekend, that was my best result last Canberra trip.

If you see a silver ZR6 driving with all cars passing by - that'd probably be me! - I'll keep an eye out as well for the other ZR6 on the highway.

I'll post the stats when I get back...

  • 2 weeks later...
Tigz Enthusiast

Tigz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Quick update -

June

5.87 km / litre 17.04 litre / 100Km -> BP95Ron mostly city driving, 33PSI wheels

6.48 km / litre 15.43 litre / 100Km -> BP95Ron mostly city driving, 33PSI wheels, - tapping the accelerator.

July

7.31 km / litre 13.69 litre / 100Km -> 91Ron mostly city driving, 36PSI wheels, - normal driving.

8.33 km / litre 12.01 litre / 100Km -> 91Ron mostly city driving, 36PSI wheels, - normal driving.

10.11 km / litre 9.89 litre / 100Km -> 91Ron mostly highways, 36PSI wheels, - normal driving.

10.00 km / litre 9.99 litre / 100Km -> 91Ron both, 36PSI wheels, - normal driving.

Finally - a happy driver with its consumption..... B)

Thanks to Bruster :clap:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    3. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Okay this might be dumb but it the ground the negative?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Disconnecting batteries, ALWAYS disconnect the ground wire first. Doing this will also disconnect power, in general. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Hey guys, I’m wanting to disconnect my current winch, lightbar and UHF as I have new plans. I’ve installed a winch previously on another car so I get it’s a case of following the cables and disconnecting from the battery, etc but but safety wise, should I start by disconnecting the battery so the cables aren’t live orrrr? And if so how do it go this haha?
      citrus__grove in Landcruiser Club
    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

      Put a set of standard wheels on it and your problem will disappear. It is critical that the hole in the wheel centre is a snug fit on the axle boss (without wheel nuts fitted). If your wheels are sloppy on the axle boss this allows excess force on your wheel studs and they will break, as yours are doing. If you are unsure of what to do, go to a reputable tyre shop and get assistance.
      32V8 in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

      Hey everyone was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction with this issue I've been facing for a while now. My Celica's idle will drop down to almost 200rpm when stationery after hitting operating temperature. Pretty much feels like it's about to stall out but never actually does. When taking off from a set of lights it almost feels like it hesitates or is down on power and then all of a sudden it lurches forward and gets a boost in power again. Then again around 1,500-3,000rpm it feels down on power and in what I can only describe in the engine feeling scratchy. Past 3,000 rpm it gets a little boost in power again but still definitely feels down on power compared to what it used to be and still has that roughness. Note lift is also not working at the moment but I have changed the lift bolts, planning on cleaning the VVT and VVTL-i OCV's New engine mounts have been installed I changed the MAF sensor about 4 years ago albeit not OEM. After doing some research my main ideas now would be a New MAF this time OEM, TPS, IACV or Coil Packs (Changed plugs 50,000km ago) Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!! :)
      ik04 in Celica Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership