electrical problem with my sub

[ELEGNT]

hey guys, ive been having trouble with me car not starting after it has been sitting for a wile. so after 6 weeks at toyota and breaking down last weekend at the spit, i have sused out the problem is my battery. now i have unplugged my sub and brought a new battery and problem solved.

now i have a standard head unit so im running a line level convertor and the remote wire is hooked up to the 12v/240w out.

can someone tell me what would be draining my battery? cos after it sits for a wile (overnight) the battery has not enought power to turn over the engine. i think i need a propper convertor(dont know the name) for the remote wire.

thanks for the help im hating not having my sub hooked up

[DJKOR]

This is where a multi-meter would be handy. You would need to see whether or not that +12v line you tapped into (AUX power) is actually switching off as required. Remember, the amp only needs a very small current to trigger the remote power.

It could also be possible that your amp is at fault and is not switching off properly when the power to the remote trigger is cut.

I return tonight and have some spare time tomorrow if you want me to check it all out for you.

Can't believe that was your problem all along. At least you got some new injectors out of it.

[Guest]

i would agree with daryl, something is triggering the amp to come on/stay on i would say...

[Eargunk]

at jaycar they have a circuit breaker, its like like $30-50, it goes into your power line. so once you stop your car just hit the off button (cuts off the red wire to your amp). i paid 400~ for my fuse thingy from monster cables, i think its worth it cause my system is getting a huge upgrade once i jump into my new car. Was bending to a astra (i now its a holden, and supra's trunk is not great for audio system, spare tyre holder is in the way)

2x60amp

1x120amps + Voltage Display

2x60amp + Voltage Display

Voltmeter is useful to find out miss fire of spark plugs

Thats my solution but if you find it to be the remote, you saved 30-50 dollars, you can mount it inside the cabin and just use it as a switch and keep the fuse under the bonnet.

Edited September 6, 2009 by Eargunk

[ELEGNT]

This is where a multi-meter would be handy. You would need to see whether or not that +12v line you tapped into (AUX power) is actually switching off as required. Remember, the amp only needs a very small current to trigger the remote power.

It could also be possible that your amp is at fault and is not switching off properly when the power to the remote trigger is cut.

thanks for that info mate, so you recon if i came over ud be able to hook the multimeter on it and see where it is drawing the power? weather its the power wire that it is sourcing ti from or the 12v?

at jaycar they have a circuit breaker, its like like $30-50, it goes into your power line. so once you stop your car just hit the off button (cuts off the red wire to your amp).

sweeeeeeeeet mate thanks for that info, so when i pin point where the draw is from, if i get a circuit breaker that will eliminate any of that power going to the amp and its just a case of switching it off every time i turn it off? therefore no problem

Edited September 6, 2009 by ELEGNT

[DJKOR]

thanks for that info mate, so you recon if i came over ud be able to hook the multimeter on it and see where it is drawing the power? weather its the power wire that it is sourcing ti from or the 12v?

Yeah, I could check it out for you. Should only take a few minutes to find the source of your problems.

sweeeeeeeeet mate thanks for that info, so when i pin point where the draw is from, if i get a circuit breaker that will eliminate any of that power going to the amp and its just a case of switching it off every time i turn it off? therefore no problem

Yeah. If your remote trigger in your amp is permanently stuck on, you can put a circuit breaker in line and then turn it off manually.

... But that is just a hassle. In that scenario, I can do one of two things:

1) Put a high power relay in-line and have it triggered from your ACC power, or

2) Open up your amp and just replace the relay if it is at fault. Not a hard thing to do, and makes it like new again.

Then you don't need to touch a single switch when you turn your car off.

[ELEGNT]

^^^^^^maddest dude out, the biggest xmas present will be comeing your way mate no doubt. let me know when you are free later in the week/weeknight or even at the loop. just when you get a minute free let me know man and we will see if we can find it.

thanks again mate, hopefully one day my limited knowledge can help u out in some way

talk soon

thanks other for reply too

[DJKOR]

I'm pretty much free any time this week.... just not tomorrow until after midday.

[akuma]

maybe your alternator is buggered?

[ELEGNT]

maybe your alternator is buggered?

could very well be man, if nothing comes up when i test it with daryl then ill be very sus on that!

Daryl, sweet mate maybe thurs midday or friday after lunch will let u know in advance mate cheers

[Guest]

just check your battery voltages when the car is running, will soon tell you if the alt. is buggerd.

as for the trigger for the amp, daryls idea of a nice big relay on the acc. line would work well, you could even put it in the amp +12v line if it was big enough, that way the amp would always be completely off when the car is.

[ELEGNT]

just check your battery voltages when the car is running, will soon tell you if the alt. is buggerd.

i tested it on my old fuked battery when it was running at it was 12.17v............?? and car off was the same? that was straight after i had been driving for an hour

Edited September 7, 2009 by ELEGNT

[Guest]

just check your battery voltages when the car is running, will soon tell you if the alt. is buggerd.

i tested it on my old fuked battery when it was running at it was 12.17v............?? and car off was the same? that was straight after i had been driving for an hour

it should be a bit higher than that i would thin, afaik arround 13.8 v but it wouldnt help if the battery was ******.

[ELEGNT]

just check your battery voltages when the car is running, will soon tell you if the alt. is buggerd.

i tested it on my old fuked battery when it was running at it was 12.17v............?? and car off was the same? that was straight after i had been driving for an hour

it should be a bit higher than that i would thin, afaik arround 13.8 v but it wouldnt help if the battery was ******.

ywh i recon ill give it a look with daryl cos i dont have a multimeter, thanks for bringin that up man