Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

hey hey

Some reading, some food for thought for those who are interested.

As you know, oil is the 'lifeblood' of your engine, gearbox or hydraulic system. Depending on its application, it has many purposes, including lubrication and suspension of wear particles or other contaminants.

Why change oil? (simply) Because either the oil has become so rich with contaminants that it has lost a large part of its lubricative ability, or because the additive packages in the oil have broken down to a point that the oil is no longer capable of performing all of its tasks. How do we know the point it should be changed? Oil analasys, along with dielectric analasys is still the only reliable manner. However, manufacturers have taken into account a range of factors and specified a service interval best suited to most of those factors.

Filtration-

The average spin on filter is most efficient to somewhere around 25-35 microns. It will let some larger particles pass, it will trap some smaller particles, but for the most part that is average efficiency.

Bypass filtration- average efficiency is less than 1 micron. Some larger particles will get through, some smaller will get trapped, but that is the average efficiency of the filter

Bearing clearances- average new clearances- what, 10 microns? Each particle larger than that space is ground down by the bearing surfaces, particularly on startup, which means the bearing surfaces are slowly ground down themselves.

Adding bypass filtration is by no means a new technology. Its heavily used in industry- from haulage to mining, and just about everywhere inbetween. For years now, old toyotas have been running the 'toilet roll' filters to remove soot from the oil, to retain oils lubricative qualities, and extend oil service periods.

Enter Jackmaster , along with its predecessors- amsoil, frantz, etc which all work in the same way. Jackmaster (which I have no affilliation with) are the latest I have seen in the series- an australian designed unit, using the same toilet paper sized filter medium as the famous Frantz, is a far more ecenomical option for those looking to extend oil service periods, and engine life. Last time I priced up a system, complete it came around $160 for a 6 cyl commodore.

For less than $200, you have a system that- greatly extends oil life (extremely high quality oils have been known to last 100,000k's in both petrol and diesel passenger engines backed by oil analasys), greatly reduces engine wear, and is transferrable to new vehicles. These systems are also suitable for automatic transmissions- further reducing fluid temps, but greatly reducing any wear particles from being circulated through the system.

Personally- will I be adding a bypass filter to this vehicle- a 240,000 k corolla? i'm 50/50 about it, if compression and oil analasys both show up well, then quite possibly- I really dont know how long I will keep the vehicle. If I get my dream car- the XB hardtop, or otherwise a car that I knew I wanted to keep- this would be among the first things to go on for sure. I was just ****** off that I couldnt fit one to the bike......

Please do not extend oil service periods without the aide of oil analasys!

(I will review this and add later if anything is missing)

Cheers

Edited by Rocketeer1
Posted

So all that they are doing is running a finer filtration system in parallel to the one that is currently on the engine???

The way that I see is:

  • Finer filter in parallel with the current oil filter
  • How do you regulate the flow between the two filters if its in parallel?
  • With a finer filter you will experience faster increased differential pressure?
  • I sound sceptical because I am
  • bypass filtration?? are we not using another filter and bypassing the primary one??

Was about to spam that you were affliated with them :lol: , and seeing that you've done some R&D before....all I'm interested in is answers.

Posted
So all that they are doing is running a finer filtration system in parallel to the one that is currently on the engine???

The way that I see is:

  • Finer filter in parallel with the current oil filter
  • How do you regulate the flow between the two filters if its in parallel?
  • With a finer filter you will experience faster increased differential pressure?
  • I sound sceptical because I am
  • bypass filtration?? are we not using another filter and bypassing the primary one??

Was about to spam that you were affliated with them :lol: , and seeing that you've done some R&D before....all I'm interested in is answers.

Yes, its finer filtration, but not in parallel with the original spin on filter. Typically a feed is taken off the oil pressure switch, and a return line is fitted to suit.

What this does is allows a portion of the total oil flow to flow through the bypass filter slowly, allowing it to filter much finer through a far tighter medium, and returning back to the sump. There is therefore no need to worry about filter pressures, the finer filter flows much slower, as its only taking a portion of the total oil flow.

I understand people will be skeptical. Everyone is with any technology which is presented to them which they arent used to. So this thread is really to introduce the idea, and hopefully spark some interest.

For further reading, by all means do some research as there is endless material on the subject, from manufacturer claims, to forums, to oil analasys and test results, to industry groups, NORIA, BITOG all tout the benefits of such a system.

Again, the primary filter is still being used and performing a certain operation. It is filtering a good deal of the full flow of oil (Depending on the system as to what rev range the pressure valve opens so no longer filters) to an average of 25 microns straight to the bearings first, then the rest of the system. The aftermarket bypass filter is cleaning oil away from the system.

No not at all in any way, shape or form affiliated with Purolator (1920's), Frantz (1960's), Amsoil, Jackmaster or any other manufacturer or onseller of bypass filters or the filter medium sold to suit these systems, and in no way benefit from the sale of any of these systems.

I havent done R&D- just research. It took someone to tell me about these systems before I became interested enough to learn about them and the benefit, so just passing on the information in hope that it helps someone out ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

    2. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

    3. 0

      Tow bar

    4. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    5. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

    6. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    7. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    8. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

    9. 1

      Snapping wheel and axle studs

    10. 0

      2zz idle / roughness when accelerating past 3k

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership