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Stroker kits

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Hi guys, just browsing through the mwr website trying to find something else to waste my money on and came across these stroker kits.

2zz-ge Kit

Just curious, how would i choose what compression ratio to get and i take this is all bolt on/replacement stuff. Does anyone know if everything else can remain stock as far as engine internal wise (minus the parts getting changed with the kit) and i take it that the ecu also needs to be replaced as well.

Any thoughts/ideas and help would be great.

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2.0L 2zz aye B) sounds nice.. but is it really worth spending 2400+ on a kit but still N/a? thatd prob only be in the maybe section if going turbo and reducing compression at the same time... but would be cool to see a 2L 2zz..

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to be brutally honest that price is only the start of it ....... if u are going to bother with getting this then u might as well add in all the additional extras like rods, bearings etc etc since ur gonna have the engine apart.

regarding compression this all depends on what ur next step is gonna be ..... if ur gonna stick with n/a then either hook it up with the wiseco 11.5 or 12.3 made by either brand ..... only thing is i think if u go the wiseco's u might need to get the block sleeved or if u go the mahles then u need to check the clearances as some have been known not to fit properly.

obviously then u will need an ECU and again to take advantage of the fact that u have upgraded stuff ur gonna have to look @ sorting out the head side of things as well ...... no point only doing half a job by just fiddling with the bottom end ......

One thing to note .... if u thought f/i modifications were $$$$$'s wait till u c wats involved n/a ..... even more $$$$'s.

Probably the only other piece of advice might also be that if ur really keen on doing this that u just buy a built engine from MWR and get that shipped over ...... its far less headache to do an engine swap than going through the pain of finding someone willing to work on the internals of a 2zz.

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Fair enough, it all makes sense, i was just kinda on the hopes that i spend that little bit more and it would have been a straight forward performance upgrade.

Thanks all

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The clearances are apparently very tight between the pistons and the valves; could be due to the kit not factoring in the head and block being decked during the rebuild. Make sure you have an engine builder (Neil Tramma would be my first choice) that will check this and be able to shave the piston crown if required. The 11.5:1 being close to stock would allow the engine to continue running on lower grades of fuel, while a 12.3:1 it would start to become more critical to be using 98 octane. Looking at the link it isn't a complete rebuild kit, so still requires new bearings (which aren't much extra anyway).

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