TRD Aurion Belt tensioner Replacement at 30K

[mre2u2]

Hi Guys,

Recently I purchased a TRD Aurion.

After a while, I noticed a noise on startup which usually happens when the car has been off for a few hours or more.

The best way I can describe the noise is it sounds like a diesel car when it first starts in the morning, that rattling sound. The noise only lasts 2 seconds or so.

I read through the car manual and found a sticker in it which says something along the lines of "This engine is supercharged and may make a noise on startup, and there is no need to contact your TRD dealership as this is normal". So I decided to take it along to the local Toyota Dealership to confirm the noise that I am experiencing, is the same noise they are refering to in the manual. The mechanic came out and started the car and luckily the noise happened. He then said it was the Belt Tensioner needed replacing.

My Question is, has anyone else had this issue with their TRD Aurion and if so, how many KM's were on the car when replaced? My Car has just over 31K so I am very suprised that this is happening at such low KM's.

Any feedback would be much appreciated as I don't know to much about the TRD Aurion.

Cheers

[fuel miser]

For the record I dont own a TRD but a Persara.

Had my belt tensioner replaced last week, 100k on the clock.

Make no mistake there will be obvious rattle which will get worse. If I put the car in R or D with park brake on and looked at the belt tensioner it was bouncing up and down (more than normal, as it does generally have a small amount of movement when the engine is running).

I checked two other Aurion's a Sportivo and ATX with less k's about 45 each and they ran very smooth.

The biggest clue was with the car running as above and at temp turning the air conditioner with the front wheels slightly turned it produced a loud almost continuous belt squeal.

I took it to the local toyota car yard (I know these guys well) and they got the head mechanic to come out and listen.

As soon as I started the car and put it in D he said it was the tensioner, turning the air conditioner produced the squeal. He also commented that they had replaced a few of them.

Tensioner cost $420, new belt if needed $88 and about 4 hours labour.

They replaced the tensioner only, put the old belt back on as there was nothing wrong with it.

Since the replacement I have not heard the sound again, I have the old tensioner in the garage.

He checked to see if it had a "Service Bulletion" out that may cover the replacement, but there is not one.

They repeatedly asked me if the car was still under warrenty, but that had run out.

I got the impression they would replace it under warrenty thou. Ask them if you still have warrenty.

Edited March 10, 2011 by fuel miser

[DJKOR]

There are a couple of other things this could be based on what has been experienced by other members.

One could be the VVT-i controller. My car does this when it has been about 10,000km since my last oil and filter change. Changing these two seems to resolve it, but this isn't technically a fix... just preventing it from occurring. If this is where your noise is coming from and you have had an oil and filter change recently, there is a good chance your controller has broken down more seriously. If you want to read more about this issue, here are some threads of interest.

Rattle in start up

Rattle on engine start

engine noise on startup

Another issue could be with the belt. Now I'm not 100% on this as SupaTouring (David) and SecaBoy (Ash) was the one that mentioned it to me and my memory is shoddy, but it had something to do with Toyota releasing a revised belt for the engine which was 25mm shorter than the original one. I don't quite recall how this helps though.

[Adamsy]

Guys ill check up tomorrow on the price of the tensioner and check to see if there is a bulletin out on the issue, usually what will happen is if a dealer comes across the issue a couple of times they’ll submit a report to Toyota, once TMCA receive enough to believe there could be a potential issue they look into it and find a fix if there is indeed an issue.

Also its quite correct that TRD has released a shorter belt for the 2GR-FZE original number from memory and at an educated guess was 90916-YWQ01 which has been superseded by 90916-YWQ03 but again that's off the top of my head.

[mre2u2]

Thanks for all your replies guys.

Luckily the car has the Toyota Extra care warranty that only started 2 days ago, original warranty ran out 2 days ago. The guys at Toyota said that the tensioner would be replaced under Warranty. However the belt I would have to pay for about $100. Should I push to get the belt replaced under warranty since the belt looks fine and if the belt is damaged, surely it would be damaged due to the faulty belt tensioner?

I did ask the mechanic at Toyota if this is a common issue with the Aurion and he said he had replaced a few Belt tensioners on the Aurions.

How much of the engine needs to be dismantled to replace the Belt tensioner? My past experience with dealerships, had the timing belt replaced on my last car, got it home and got myself an oil leak, So I am a little concerned.

They have told me I will need to wait 2 weeks for the parts to arrive from Japan, so it's a waiting game at the moment.

PS: Today the car has not made the noise once, where as every day previously, it would happen at least once a day.

[DJKOR]

How much of the engine needs to be dismantled to replace the Belt tensioner?

You need to be a little more specific on what you are identifying. You mention belt tensioner which would indicate you are referring to the drive belt tensioner. You do however also mention the timing belt (which is in fact a timing chain), and the tensioner for that is a completely different story.

If you are referring to the drive belt tensioner, then it's as simple as pulling off the right wheel and taking off the splash guards. The tensioner is the shiny thing in the first photo. Second photo shows the tensioner locked with no tension applied. ou can see how you should be able to remove it rather easily.

If you are referring to the timing chain tensioner, accessing the tensioner itself is easy as there is a service panel on the rear bank of the engine... however to access this, the engine needs to be lifted up due to it's location.

[Hiro]

As for it possibly wearing out in only 30,000k, remember that it is a serpentine belt and drives _every_ ancillary in the engine-bay, including the supercharger, so it's a bloody long belt with a lot of load on it and thus a lot of tension (belts lose tension every time they go around a driven pulley, so it needs a lot of tension to begin with so that it can provide the load).

[SuperDave]

It's pretty common for 2zz tensioners to last that long. Usual fix is a new tensioner pulley (as the bearing dies) and sometimes a new tensioner strut (which are harder to get).

[Adamsy]

so had a bit of a poke around and came up with not a great deal sorry, so guess your just an unlucky one with yours giving up the ghost lol. Part number for the Tensioner is 1662031040 and it has a RRP of around $408.00 thankfully everything else in that area like the idler pulleys, vane pump and pulley is priced not to badly :) Tensioner is in stock as well.

[mre2u2]

How much of the engine needs to be dismantled to replace the Belt tensioner?

You need to be a little more specific on what you are identifying. You mention belt tensioner which would indicate you are referring to the drive belt tensioner. You do however also mention the timing belt (which is in fact a timing chain), and the tensioner for that is a completely different story.

If you are referring to the drive belt tensioner, then it's as simple as pulling off the right wheel and taking off the splash guards. The tensioner is the shiny thing in the first photo. Second photo shows the tensioner locked with no tension applied. ou can see how you should be able to remove it rather easily.

If you are referring to the timing chain tensioner, accessing the tensioner itself is easy as there is a service panel on the rear bank of the engine... however to access this, the engine needs to be lifted up due to it's location.

I am referring to the Drive Belt Tensioner, the Timing Belt I was referring to, was my previous Car. Thanks for the info and the images, thats a great help.

[mre2u2]

so had a bit of a poke around and came up with not a great deal sorry, so guess your just an unlucky one with yours giving up the ghost lol. Part number for the Tensioner is 1662031040 and it has a RRP of around $408.00 thankfully everything else in that area like the idler pulleys, vane pump and pulley is priced not to badly :) Tensioner is in stock as well.

Thanks for following this up for me. Will I have to request toyota to put the revised Belt?

[mre2u2]

Well I finally took my car in today to get the tensioner replaced as advised by Toyota. Here is my great experience with Toyota.

First issue, hadn't heard anything from Toyota since I took the car in to show them the problem (about a month ago). They said they needed to order the part

and should only be a week or so. I called them on Monday this week (1 month later) to find out what was going on, an hour later they call to say you can bring your car in on Wednesday to have the tensioner replaced.

Seems like they forgot about me I would say!

Second issue, I left the Car overnight at Toyota so they could work on it first thing in the morning and have the car finished early.

They asked me what time I would like to pick it up, I said 2pm (should be enough time to do the job)...

Get a call about 1pm advising the Car will not be ready to be picked up by 2pm and should be ready by 4pm, bigger job then they expected.

Arrive at Toyota at 4.30pm car is still in the workshop and waited another 20 minutes and finally the car is ready.

Third issue, started the car at Toyota when I picked it up, not a rattle on startup, they got it right, right???

Wrong, get home, turn the car off, hour later get back in the car, start it, the rattle is back!!!

Are these guys serious, they heard the noise when I took it in originally, "Definately the tensioner" they said.

They wasted 2 days, pulling bits and peices off the car/motor to replace the tensioner for no reason.

I also asked them if they replaced the belt as originally advised, they said there was no need.

I will call them tomorrow to let them know the noise is still there and I will like to see what they come back with.

Anyway this is the first time I have dealt with Toyota and it definately isn't a positive experience.

I have lost all confidence in taking my car back to Toyota, but I need to get this rattle fixed as it is bothering me to pieces.

Any Ideas guys?

[450HP/tonne]

Anyway this is the first time I have dealt with Toyota and it definately isn't a positive experience.

I have lost all confidence in taking my car back to Toyota, but I need to get this rattle fixed as it is bothering me to pieces.

Any Ideas guys?

Sorry to hear ...

I've had dealings with other manufacturers dealers that are equally frustrating, plus ones with Toyota that went without a hitch. Dealers seem to be consistently good or consistently not.

1, 2 & 3 seem to all be the specific dealer and not "Toyota" (dealerships are individually owned and run) - so if you have another dealer within a convenient distance, I would suggest seeing them and showing them the job card from the other dealer showing what they replaced.

Else you can explain your grievances (to the guy in charge) and give them one more chance to sort things out.

[mre2u2]

2 months on since I reported my noisey engine, I have just had my 37,500km service done at Toyota. I reported the noise on startup and a new noise that sounds like tappets has appeared (I know there is no tappets in this engine but that best describes the noise).

Had the Head mechanic (Workshop foreman) call me to advise he could not hear the noises and he found a loose hose on the supercharger that he will replace.

I told him I didnt want the car back till the noises are corrected. The following day he called me back and said they did hear both the noises I had described.

Today I get another phone call, "we need to keep the car here for 2 weeks, we will strip the top of the engine today as we think it is a Hydralic Lifter on the rear of the engine", WTF???? The car does not get thrashed, why would this happen? Does it take 2 weeks to replace the Hydralic lifter?

The car is under Toyota extended warranty and they say not until the top end has been stripped will they be able to tell me if it will be covered under warranty?

What will they look for to determine if it is covered under warranty? The car has had all its services done on time and it only has 38,000km on the clock.

Any input would be appreciated.

Cheers

[DJKOR]

Wrong, get home, turn the car off, hour later get back in the car, start it, the rattle is back!!!

Are these guys serious, they heard the noise when I took it in originally, "Definately the tensioner" they said.

They wasted 2 days, pulling bits and peices off the car/motor to replace the tensioner for no reason.

Hearing that makes me think your VVT-i controller is really stuffed. Also sounds like they are replacing tensioners left right and centre to cover a more serious issue. But to be sure of that, does your rattle sound like the one the guy has in the video I posted in the following thread:

Aurion VVTI Noise

I told him I didnt want the car back till the noises are corrected.

Do you want your car back at all... because the 2GR-FE is a noise engine by nature, and the supercharger rattling at idle doesn't make it any better. There will be other noises there which can't be corrected.

[mre2u2]

Wrong, get home, turn the car off, hour later get back in the car, start it, the rattle is back!!!

Are these guys serious, they heard the noise when I took it in originally, "Definately the tensioner" they said.

They wasted 2 days, pulling bits and peices off the car/motor to replace the tensioner for no reason.

Hearing that makes me think your VVT-i controller is really stuffed. Also sounds like they are replacing tensioners left right and centre to cover a more serious issue. But to be sure of that, does your rattle sound like the one the guy has in the video I posted in the following thread:

Aurion VVTI Noise

I told him I didnt want the car back till the noises are corrected.

Do you want your car back at all... because the 2GR-FE is a noise engine by nature, and the supercharger rattling at idle doesn't make it any better. There will be other noises there which can't be corrected.

That is the noise I am hearing on startup. It doesnt happen when the engine is cold though, only after the engine has warmed up.

Yes, i have been told many times these engines are noisey, but the tappeting sound & startup noise are Definately not normal. No I don't want the car back, until these noises have been corrected to prevent any unnecessary damage to the engine. I am sure anyone that hears these noises coming from their engine would be a little worried to drive the car.

[DJKOR]

That is the noise I am hearing on startup. It doesnt happen when the engine is cold though, only after the engine has warmed up.

That certainly is different to most cases. I'd be pushing them to inspect the VVT-i controllers... more so the locking pin mechanism and the oil flow to the controllers.

No I don't want the car back, until these noises have been corrected to prevent any unnecessary damage to the engine. I am sure anyone that hears these noises coming from their engine would be a little worried to drive the car.

The more efficient option I would say would be to sell the car and move on. Unfortunately that is the sad truth when it comes to these cars. They aren't exactly perfect depending on how you look at it, and part of owning it is to accept it's negatives. Good luck getting the tappet-like sound fixed. Would be the first I've heard of if you manage to.

[mre2u2]

That is the noise I am hearing on startup. It doesnt happen when the engine is cold though, only after the engine has warmed up.

That certainly is different to most cases. I'd be pushing them to inspect the VVT-i controllers... more so the locking pin mechanism and the oil flow to the controllers.

No I don't want the car back, until these noises have been corrected to prevent any unnecessary damage to the engine. I am sure anyone that hears these noises coming from their engine would be a little worried to drive the car.

The more efficient option I would say would be to sell the car and move on. Unfortunately that is the sad truth when it comes to these cars. They aren't exactly perfect depending on how you look at it, and part of owning it is to accept it's negatives. Good luck getting the tappet-like sound fixed. Would be the first I've heard of if you manage to.

Got a call from the Workshop Foreman the other day and he advised they did hear the "tappet like sound" so I guess I was not imagining the sound. He believes the sound is caused from a faulty vvti Soleniod on the rear of the engine. Now the problem is they have to order the part from Japan and wait time of 2-3 WEEKS!!!! I asked if I could take the car since there is such a long wait, but he said he can't let me take it as there is a few recalls on this car and need to get these fixed first. I am fine with that as long as the issues are resolved, fingers crossed.

[DJKOR]

Got a call from the Workshop Foreman the other day and he advised they did hear the "tappet like sound" so I guess I was not imagining the sound. He believes the sound is caused from a faulty vvti Soleniod on the rear of the engine.

Well hopefully the car should come back to you quiet enough to make you satisfied because those VVT-I solenoids make quite a lot of tapping noise even when they are working perfectly fine. Every 2GR-FE I have heard exhibits noise like mentioned below:

When the car is started on cold you can hear the tappets (sounds like a truck on idle) and they go quite after awhile but you can still hear them on idle...

Piston slap may not be what you are hearing. Remove the engine cover and listen to the VVT-i soleniod valves (2 per bank), which make a noise similar to what you describe:

[tissue]

For the record I dont own a TRD but a Persara.

Had my belt tensioner replaced last week, 100k on the clock.

Make no mistake there will be obvious rattle which will get worse. If I put the car in R or D with park brake on and looked at the belt tensioner it was bouncing up and down (more than normal, as it does generally have a small amount of movement when the engine is running).

I checked two other Aurion's a Sportivo and ATX with less k's about 45 each and they ran very smooth.

The biggest clue was with the car running as above and at temp turning the air conditioner with the front wheels slightly turned it produced a loud almost continuous belt squeal.

I took it to the local toyota car yard (I know these guys well) and they got the head mechanic to come out and listen.

As soon as I started the car and put it in D he said it was the tensioner, turning the air conditioner produced the squeal. He also commented that they had replaced a few of them.

Tensioner cost $420, new belt if needed $88 and about 4 hours labour.

They replaced the tensioner only, put the old belt back on as there was nothing wrong with it.

Since the replacement I have not heard the sound again, I have the old tensioner in the garage.

He checked to see if it had a "Service Bulletion" out that may cover the replacement, but there is not one.

They repeatedly asked me if the car was still under warrenty, but that had run out.

I got the impression they would replace it under warrenty thou. Ask them if you still have warrenty.

Just for record in case someone searches for belt squealing or tensioner, I have had the exact same issue as above fixed previously and it is spot on. The noise is a continuous noise that comes from the belt area, and will be going if the car is hot, cold, air con on or off. The only thing that seems to affect it, is that at speed it isnt quite as loud but is very loud at idle. The noise sounds exactly like a loose or squealing belt, because thats what it is (not getting enough tension). Mine was replaced at 90k.

Unfortunately for me, my mechanic had never heard of it and speaking with Toyota they didnt seem to think that many had been done. I went through a bit of trial-and-error to fix it, which resulted in me getting the bearings on all the pulleys changed and a new belt (all cheap fixes) before I had the belt tensioner replaced. Luckily that fixed it though.

The problem that the OP has though sounds much more severe.