ECU for 85 Tarago

[Hiconic]

Hi all,

I'm wondering if anybody here can help me save my van from certain death. I'm trying to track down a 2nd hand/ reconditioned ECU for my faithful beast. Surfing the net hasn't as yet turned up anything and having very little luck in the wreckers catagory in the yellow pages where I am and where I'm not!!

Can any of you good folk guide me in any direction other than brick wall to help me save my Tarago, apart from the failed ECU the rest of the car is in fantastic condition and has served me well for 5years so far. Thanks in advance.

Pete

[Guest]

What engine is in said tarago?

[Hiconic]

Hi Mick,

It's a 4YE the ECU No is 89661(Toyota) 28040(Unit/model)

[robmac1]

Hi all,

I'm wondering if anybody here can help me save my van from certain death. I'm trying to track down a 2nd hand/ reconditioned ECU for my faithful beast. Surfing the net hasn't as yet turned up anything and having very little luck in the wreckers catagory in the yellow pages where I am and where I'm not!!

Can any of you good folk guide me in any direction other than brick wall to help me save my Tarago, apart from the failed ECU the rest of the car is in fantastic condition and has served me well for 5years so far. Thanks in advance.

Pete

I would be searching the DIY wreckers near you.

ECUs are generally very reliable unless they are drowned or physically damaged.

So you have a pretty good chance of finding a good unit.

How did you diagnose a faulty ECU as your problem?

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The diagnosis came from process of elimination. The engine started missing and the cold start switch started to cut in and pump fuel when not needed whenever a bump in the road was run over. After slamming the passenger door (when trying to work out what was causing the problem) the engine stopped missing and would be fine until the next big bump. Then I would just reach over and slam the door and on I'd go. This worked for a time but the door thing stopped being effective. I then started physically tapping around the engine bay trying to locate the cause. I had a couple of false positives and started to think it was the cold start switch but after disconnecting the problem still remained. I then just tapped and tapped until I traced it to the side door pillar where the ECU was located (hence the door slam would rattle the unit)

I removed the unit and sat it on a cushion to absorb the bumps, BINGO! no trouble, not one miss for the next 2 months, then the problem returned and I had to reach behind the passenger seat and tap the unit and then off I'd go again. Obviously theres a loose connection or the board itself is damaged or it could (if I'm lucky!) be just a cable connection into the unit being loose. At the moment being a single parent and holding down a part time job (in other words one of the working poor) I don't have the reserves to have someone charge $100 + to diagnose the problem as being a faulty ECU, then have to buy one when the problem seems pretty conclusive to me. I know I probably could save money if they find a loose cable but it's a gamble where I'm not feeling too lucky of late.

Pete

[Guest]

I think your best bet will be a self service wrecker.

[robmac1]

The diagnosis came from process of elimination. The engine started missing and the cold start switch started to cut in and pump fuel when not needed whenever a bump in the road was run over. After slamming the passenger door (when trying to work out what was causing the problem) the engine stopped missing and would be fine until the next big bump. Then I would just reach over and slam the door and on I'd go. This worked for a time but the door thing stopped being effective. I then started physically tapping around the engine bay trying to locate the cause. I had a couple of false positives and started to think it was the cold start switch but after disconnecting the problem still remained. I then just tapped and tapped until I traced it to the side door pillar where the ECU was located (hence the door slam would rattle the unit)

I removed the unit and sat it on a cushion to absorb the bumps, BINGO! no trouble, not one miss for the next 2 months, then the problem returned and I had to reach behind the passenger seat and tap the unit and then off I'd go again. Obviously theres a loose connection or the board itself is damaged or it could (if I'm lucky!) be just a cable connection into the unit being loose. At the moment being a single parent and holding down a part time job (in other words one of the working poor) I don't have the reserves to have someone charge $100 + to diagnose the problem as being a faulty ECU, then have to buy one when the problem seems pretty conclusive to me. I know I probably could save money if they find a loose cable but it's a gamble where I'm not feeling too lucky of late.

Pete

Pete,

ND electrics are very reliable. I'd be looking at a connection on ECU plug.

Unplug the connector and re-plug a few times. That should remove any oxidation on the pins.

After that I'd check each and every wire crimp of the plug.

Perhaps get it running and jiggle each wire in in turn (use a pair of tweezers) until the fault shows up.

You may need to carefully cut the wiring loom covering tape to be able to jiggle the wires individually.

FWIW I'm still diagnosing a dicky connection rather than faulty ECU.

Never be tempted to spray the connection with a lube or cleaning spray. More problems will ensue.

[(mr2)]

Possibly a dry solder in the ECU? I imagine that it would be cheaper to get a second hand one than it would be to get yours repaired unless you know someone who can look at it for you.

[Hiconic]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the input on this issue, as of today I'm back on the road again. I located a wholesaler on the net and found out that they had a local dealership up here in Cairns. I bit the bullet and took the gamble that it was the ECU causing the problem and on Tuesday I ordered a fully reconditioned ECU (the only one they had) and it got here yesterday. $475.00 later, I'm in business again.

If I had taken it to an auto electrician you could bump that $475 up to maybe $600/$800+ so that would have really been outta my budget! I plugged it straight in and it started first try and has been fine ever since. I don't begrudge tradesmen their hard earned wages but I'm just saying that for some of us to keep ourselves in a job we have to do what we can to stay afloat, I respect the fact that they are very qualified and have years of training but some of us just can't afford to use their services.

Thanks again

Pete

[(mr2)]

Good news that you got it sorted. might be worth holding on to the old one just in case, well I would but I hoard stuff :)