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my info shows that RAV4 in Aus didn't get it till 1998. You will find that with over seas models that can be a lot later too, especially in the states where they can still get a new car without a factory immo.

A couple of other ways to check -

Look for a immobiliser light on the dash or on the cluster, it will flash when there is no key in the ignition

If your key has a think rubber head or a remote it probably does have a transponder

If there is a mark on the key blade under the rubber then there is a chip. It can be a dot, G or H

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my info shows that RAV4 in Aus didn't get it till 1998. You will find that with over seas models that can be a lot later too, especially in the states where they can still get a new car without a factory immo.

A couple of other ways to check -

Look for a immobiliser light on the dash or on the cluster, it will flash when there is no key in the ignition

If your key has a think rubber head or a remote it probably does have a transponder

If there is a mark on the key blade under the rubber then there is a chip. It can be a dot, G or H

Thanks. Here in the UK chipping or coding came in 1996.

There is no immobiliser light flashing.

No remote control and it is a very small rubber head which is why I thought it might not be chipped.

It's moulded rubber like plastic and I can't lift it to see if there is a dot, G or H.

I'll go to a keyman and see what he says. Thanks for the advice. It is looking like it possibly isn't coded.

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Immobilisers were first used in cars in late 94, BMW were one of the first to use it.

I can't lift it to see if there is a dot, G or H.

This is for later models and not for your particular model, sorry if there was any confusion. The stamping on the keys that have it are visible without doing anything to your key.

Now I do recommend getting your key cut to code, not just copied which transfers all the wear and tear onto the new key. Cutting to code also helps your locks work smoother and last longer.

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Immobilisers were first used in cars in late 94, BMW were one of the first to use it.

I can't lift it to see if there is a dot, G or H.

Now I do recommend getting your key cut to code, not just copied which transfers all the wear and tear onto the new key. Cutting to code also helps your locks work smoother and last longer.

Do you mean by using the lock number?

Funny thing is I had the driver door lock in pieces the other day. I want to fit a remote central locking unit and use a solenoid. I meant to jot down the number on the barrel but forgot. I'd had to force off the end cap on the barrel to get into the tumblers as two had broken and were sticking in the shut position. It is only peened over and was easily re-peened. I was spending 10 mins jiggling the key just to open up. The door lock now works fine.

It is such and old motor is it worth the trouble of being cut to code?? If I could I'd convert to push button start.

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If You don't have to remove the door lock to get the code. A good locksmith will be able to decode your key by looking at it, failing that if you wanted to get it done that way PM me a picture of your key and I can tell you the key code.

Here in Aus it's about $25 more to get a key cut to code, personally I think it is worth it but if the locks are that worn and you don't mind having to jiggle the key then don't worry about it, as long as you can get it right :)

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If You don't have to remove the door lock to get the code. A good locksmith will be able to decode your key by looking at it, failing that if you wanted to get it done that way PM me a picture of your key and I can tell you the key code.

Here in Aus it's about $25 more to get a key cut to code, personally I think it is worth it but if the locks are that worn and you don't mind having to jiggle the key then don't worry about it, as long as you can get it right :)

Thanks for the help. :toast:

It is not a coded key and I had a spare cut. Nice cheap result!!!

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