Keywords: CAI corolla sportivo stock induction intake ducting airbox This is the same mod I did to my old AE93, except that time I used silicon ducting with a 3" helix. This time I used thermoplastic rubber with a 3" helix. It's fairly thick with rubber on both sides of the helix. The sound is similar to straight removal of the stock feeder (like a V8). The longer you make the intake, the very slightly quieter it will be. The sound from my SX was more high pitched like a turbo. Total cost: $30 to $40. OPTIONS: THERMO PLASTIC RUBBER <-- image removed --> <-- image removed --> MULTIFLEX (I think this is the crap you get from Autobarn. I think it's 100% plastic. No helix.) <-- image removed --> HIGH TEMP <-- image removed --> WHERE TO BUY (BRISBANE): Tony Powell (Open weekends) Purple Pig (Not open weekends) There are multiple length options you can go with: 80cm - from the airbox to resting down on top of the splash guard in front of the radiator in the front bumper. Don't know how effective this would be considering the end is right next to a radiator. Also, there may be an effect on cooling as you're effectively stealing air which might have gone through your radiator. 70cm - from the airbox to a hole cut in the passenger fog light splash guard. Not recommended unless you want to suck up dirt, water, heat straight off the bitumen, etc. 70cm (05 facelift only) - from the airbox to next to the front fog light with a hole cut in the black fog light surround, for sucking in small wildlife and junk. A lot of extra work creating a circular opening in the fog light surround, for more risk. I considered this but honestly wouldn't bother. 60cm - from the airbox to resting next to the front fog light pointing down. Cut it so there's a couple of inches clearance above the slash guard. Obviously don't let it rest flush on top of the splash guard. 40cm - from the airbox straight to behind the passenger headlight. You should cable tie the end of the hose so it points downward into the empty fog light cavity. I recommend buying 1m for the first 3 options and 50cm for the 40cm option. Also, DO NOT CUT TO LENGTH WITHOUT PROPERLY FITTING FIRST. The bend right next to the airbox will shorten the ducting considerably. GETTING THE STOCK FEEDER OUT: Remove the battery. Remove the top half of the airbox. Remove the bottom half of the airbox. There's a steel line running between the battery and the airbox feeder. Take this out of it's little plastic brack and wedge it down beside the bracket on the battery side. Remove the stock feeder. MODIFYING THE BOTTOM HALF OF THE AIRBOX. The opening to the airbox is 70mm, perfect for clamping the ducting to using a worm drive clamp. The only problem is the corner of the airbox protrudes onto the ring you want to clamp to. The solution to this is to cut away the corner of the airbox. I was short on time and forgot to photo this step. What should be left is 15cm ring all the way around you can securely clamp to. <-- image removed --> INSTALLING NEW FEEDER: Securely clamp your ducting to the opening in the bottom half of the airbox. Feed the ducting under your fuze box, through the gap under the headlight and to wherever your option is. Reinstall everything else. For the 60cm and 70cm options remove the slash guard under the passenger foglight and remove the black foglight surround to check the placement of the ducting. Finally, cut your ducting to length. This is the stock air box feeder: <-- image removed --> Stock in the car: <-- image removed --> Stock feeder compared to thermoplastic rubber: <-- image removed --> Final result: <-- image removed --> <-- image removed --> IMAGE COUNT EXCEEDED :(