stevo1210

lol. my mates organised the towing... so all i gotta do now is watch and pay whatever share I need to.

Alright. Thanks guys. I'll give a range of companies a call sometime during the week. :) Towing is just one problem for now... we have another few to jump lol. Such as parking an un-registered car on marrickville streets since we live in apartments and alike or whose gonna move and wash it every few days so that it doesn't look like a suss car haha.

Yeah also forgot... kinda on my P's at the moment, so maximum allowable towing weight is 250KGs and no higher. Car is over 1000KGs + trailer so no go, even if we had access to a ute or 4x4.

Water and oil/petroleum spirit do not mix Water and alcohol (ethanol) does and that is the unmanageable problem When ethanol was first released, in our sometimes humid climate, an unacceptable amount of moisture was absorbed and vehicles were breaking down These days ethanol is added at a later stage and more care is taken to keep atmospheric humidity out In older vehicles, seals which work reliably with petrol and oil, slowly dissolve/break down in ethanol Modern cars have seals designed to cope with ethanol I use 95 octane fuels in my Camry, as 95 and 98 octane fuels give better economy the extra cost is less than it appears The computers in modern cars adjust to the use of the better quality fuel and an improvement in drive-ability can be noticed after a few tank fills I've managed to work out that using e10 petrol is the same as using say 95 or 91 unleaded. why? because ethanol does lesser mileage requiring you to fill up more often than filling up with 95 or 91 unleaded, thus the costs are the same. It might hurt the pocket to fill up with 95 or 91 unleaded but it lasts longer and you fill it up less frequently... and you also get more power. :)

did you drive into a pole or someone with a towbar? O.o You might wanna check if the two chassis rails are bent in any way cause that might prove kinda costly.

Unfortunately not. We don't know anyone who drives a 4x4 or ute. I did think of that earlier but then we had to scrap that and opt for towing.

I'm wondering about towing rates for towing a car approximately 35KMs to its new "home"? Basically, me and some friends at university are buying a project car (a run down one) where we will try to attempt an engine transplant, modify it etc. and get it running again. We've opted for an EK Honda Civic and planning for a K20 conversion etc... and possibly put this one on the race track too. :) Anyway, we've found one which we think is okay... it has no structural damage just some light panel damage and lots of KM's... nearly 300,000KMs or so... at least it's a 5 speed lol. But it has no rego, as with many run down cars... so we're obviously gonna have to tow it home. So I've worked out that from Bella Vista to Marrickville is approximately 35KMs. Would anyone be able to tell me approximately how much this is gonna cost us? or suggest a cheap towing company? There was another option of getting an unregistered vehicle permit for $19 and some CTP but i doubt it'd pass the inspection checks... and it's a manual and the only guy who can drive a manual on our team is on a learners permit. So... we're pretty stuck.

basically you need a PCI-e card since it's a newer PC. You'd be better off in the ATi camp since the nvidia 8xxx series sufferes from premature failure from soldering bead process issues. If it's a newer nvidia it should be okay. But I think your best buy is the ATi 4850 1GB from HIS for $59 from MSY. That's a cheap card which is passively cooled so you don't have to worry about worn fans and offers performance par to the nvidia GT220/240 series, for half the cost.

anyone...?

My friends ZZE Corolla has an issue with the front cover of the HVAC and the HVAC controls itself. He got some car audio installed a few months ago and well they weren't the best I guess. Behind the fan control knob, there is a screw that holds the black fascia to the white coloured HVAC controls housing. They decided to use a power drill (or at least I think so) to tighten this screw and have cross threaded it and the screw doesn't actually fit in it anymore... he now complains the knobs feel loose or something because the HVAC isn't tightened to the fascia or something alike. Is there a way to solve this issue or should we just go the wreckers and get a new set of HVAC controls for ~$100?

if turns red when you're in the middle of the road you won't get caught. If however any of your wheels are still on the white stop line as it turns red then you're screwed.

The one in your picture are 5 stud, my car is only 4 studs since it's a ZZE Corolla. :( Otherwise I'd be all over them. :) My work this summer better get me a new set of alloys to replace these decrepit ones I currently have lol.

Well, I'd like larger rims too, but my minimum wage work isn't really gonna pay for that, got other things to pay for haha. But if I were to go up in rim sizes, wouldn't the tyres get thinner and rougher on the roads?

I used to wash mine every week, then it became a fortnight, and now a month. I wash mine by hand under the car port so I don't get water marks as the sun dries out the water. I wax my car once every 6 months as per the packaging of Nu-Finish car polish says. :) The thing I hate most about EVERY time that I wash my car is that it rains the next day... all that effort for nothing. O.o

I just got new tyres for my car last month. I upgraded from 14" to 15" as I changed the tyres, along with a set of crappy 2nd hand alloys. I don't want to go any larger in size because my friend got defected a few months back for using Sportivo 16" rims on his Ascent... there's a thread on here about that encounter somewhere... best stick to whatever the tyre placard says.

would speedy wheels brand be any good then?

i want these alloys on my ZZE as well, but i cant actually imagine how they'd look. i'm kinda stuck between RJR champ and RJR phantom... not really sure between the two. :S

its the person not that car :P ive seen newbie p plater + 3 cyl daihatsu do many stupid things !!!! go the v6 :) Forget about the difference between V6, 4 cylinder, model number etc. IT IS THE DRIVER who determines 99% of the safety of the passengers in a car. Sure, some idiot can take you out & being in a "safer" car will help you (depending on impact of course). I've driven plenty of slow cars that I could still have died in if I wasn't concentrating on "good driving". Good driving means excellent awareness of what is around you at all times. Other cars, people, conditions on the road and experience are all more important factors than speed alone. Being a young P plate driver means the experience is not there, the other factors are under your control though & if you make good judgements you will be safe. Most fatal road accidents in WA are on country roads, often with no other cars around for miles, even on straight roads!! Why you ask?? Usually because the driver has made a mistake, not the car, not the speed limit set (110) but driver error. Learn to drive properly and consider others on the roads and you will stay safe. Yeah, it's definitely the driver. In my opinion it's not the speed that kills but the in-experience. All those stupid television ad's with "you speed, you die" etc. slogans would be totally wrong... if that were the case, anyone who speed automatically dies. Then one day the RTA decided to restrict P-platers from driving V8's and super/turbo charged cars. That is also wrong as I have seen many V8 commodores and falcons not be able to take on a 3.5L V6 Aurion, yet the Toyota Aurion is still faster and stronger... why not ban the Aurion from P-platers then? Even speaking of cars from the same company say a 1980's V8 Holden vs. a Newer V6 Holden. The V6 Holden Commodore would be much, much faster and powerful that the older 1980's V8, but the V8 gets a ban. It should be a power to weight thing and not purely based on just engine displacement.

I see a light bluish coloured ZZE122R Corolla hatchback parked in the University of Western Sydney Parramatta (North) carpark every now and again. Has the club sticker on the rear window, side skirts, front lip and eyelids (i think)? Must belong to a forum member here I'm guessing? I usually end up parking next to it just to see how high my stockie ascent is and how much potential mine has lol. ;)

depends what type of vienta you have. if it's an ultima, then maybe it has a button to enable the immobiliser. if it has a security light then it probably has an immobiliser or similar. i've never driven a camry so i'm not 100% sure.

hmm I learnt to drive on my mum's 5th gen Camry V6 and drove it for half a year on my red P's before I got my own car. I've always found it to be like a rock, acceleration was really slow, and you had to use some force on the gas pedal for it to move with any urgency, I don't see how you can hoon around in it lol, despite being V6 (unless extensive mods were made). My current Aurion SX6 on the other hand goes much faster from a standstill haha, the gas pedal is so much softer compared to the gen 5 Camry and wants to be floored. Even though the Aurion has a lot of power at hand, I try to drive as responsibly as possible as I'm still on my red P's and my work necessitates me having my own transport, as well as setting a good example for younger siblings soon to get their licence. I do understand the concern to try and minimise the chances for your brother to hoon around, you would know your brother better than your parents lol and I think you have nothing to worry about with the V6 Camry, its really too big/heavy and not powerful enough to do considerable damage. LOL the Aurion i can totally understand. it's soooo powerful with over 200KW at hand... compared to the Camry with only 140-something KW's at hand. But yes, I would want it to be in a reasonable range like your description of a rock cause it can minimize some stupidity behind the wheel. I on the other hand will probably spend more time hooning around in that Camry when I can get my hands on it. So far on my modifications list is 17" alloys and subwoofers in the boot. :) My ZZE will still remain a virgin till the day I sell it. I can bare to see it with any modifications apart from a set of decent set of alloy wheels or maybe a new head unit and that'll be about it.

Unfortunately he can't drive a manual and neither can I. I spoke to a few family members who also drive Camry's and they all drive the V6 versions. They said it was better to opt for the V6 model because it offered better performance response, was more quieter and that the 2.2L isn't really worth it because it only uses a few litres less in petrol per 100KMs, and also the V6 model is more reliable in some aspects... or so I've been told. So I guess I'll be looking for a V6 MCV20R instead... but of course the Conquest model (comes with dual airbags and power windows too) and not the CSi. Let's just hope newbie P-plater + V6 Camry = no stupidity on the road. O.o I want to be able to use this car as well on those long road trips down the coast...

depends what car you drive. my ZZE corolla is easy enough to change. my mum's 2007 honda accord.... totally different story as the oil filter is behind the engine where the steering column is, so you'll need a hoist or ramp in order to have enough height to twist your hands & arms to get to it... :(

LOL I only weigh 60KGs or so (skinny stick ahaha) and dad about 70KGs. As for the teeth on the rails, they aren't worn from a visual inspection and are still a nice square shape. I however noticed that when I shook the seat, the bottom half where the seat sticks to the rail stays still and it's only the top half... which connects to the cushiony bit of the seat that shakes.

I have a problem with the drivers seat in my 2003 ZZE122R Corolla and it's getting worse each day. Basically, the seat is loose and slightly slides forwards and backwards as I brake and accelerate. When I turn it makes a clunk noise as the G forces push on my body and the seat itself. It's getting pretty damn annoying, and slowly becoming a hazard in my opinion. I check the bolts to the floor and they are pretty damn tight, I am however able to get my hands and physically rock the seat. I do the same thing to the passenger side seat and it stays nice and still without an issue. This car was purchased brand new by my parents and the seat was never abused in any way. When dad handed it over to me, it made a slight noise but didn't really move... now it starts to become looser and moves slightly as well. What's wrong here? and where should I go to get it fixed? car mechanic, toyota dealer or seat specialist (if one exists)?