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Everything posted by Kenshin X
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white smoke is either u overfilled the engine with engine oil or on cold starts that is normal... oil cleaner u mean oil flush? not really recommended as it takes the sludge (if u already got some around the rings) this causes the oil to leak into seals and combust with fuel and hence blue smoke comes out... u didn't specify the colour and amount and when the engine is cold/hot
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one word... NOICE! this is my second favourite family car (first is the FG F6 typhoon). atm cant afford insurance/fuel and others so my current car will do haha :P i've driven the BF XR6T and XR8 manual when my uncle used to work for ford city... and man such a beast :P and yes what u said replying to what DJKOR said, my uncle enjoyed driving up peoples a$$ on the freeway and they either just move outta the way or slow down 20 km/h under the speed limit (esp at night) :P
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NSW- Mobile Speed Cameras
Kenshin X replied to httttt's topic in General Toyota & Other Car Discussions
As if you can go faster than 30km/h along there with all the traffic and pot-holes anyway..... LOL this. -
Don't bother dude, I was quoted $560 a pair prior to attempting to do it on my own headlights. cai+pod looks good Duy. Vacuum much over the weekend? hehe yeah man, everytime i put the foot down my whole body moves towards the front left! LOL :D vaccuum ftw!!! :D also found after only a couple of hours of driving 5 bugs stuck on the pod dead... i cant imagine what it will be like after 10,000km :P actually if u just copy any of the designs, u should be getting the same sh!t. i had an ugly pipe before going into the oem air filter box and it was smaller so didn't suck in alot of air compared to the trd cai but i reckon its not that much difference... just mad noise :P woohooo got my rear sway today, as soon as my uncle comes home i'm gonna get his jack and put it on straight away :spiteful: :spiteful: :spiteful: :spiteful: got free tshirt too :P
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[VIC] MONTHLY MEET - SUNDAY 25TH JULY 2010
Kenshin X replied to Kenshin X's topic in Previous/Past Club Meets & Events
Guys we are blessed with good weather this weekend! minor post update... ;) -
haha no i didn't... :( wait til i have more time and down time on my car so i can do it :) maybe a trip to the wreckers... :)
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Toyota 2 button key with transponders
Kenshin X replied to a topic in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
be mindful u need to re program the chip inside so it matches your car immobiliser as well... so its gonna be a hefty price tag no matter how u look at it <_< -
ok folks this is the best clearance from the foggie as i can get... but i think the start of the cai is too close to the end of the filter. would this affect the flow volume of air going thru the cai to the engine? i also tied one of the brackets to the metal part of the fuse box to have it sit higher... LOL it will have to do until i get a proper cable tie... which is like... wheni cbf :P also chucked my sportivo cluster back on just in case something doesnt work (esp check engine light :P)
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sydney did u say? yaris then... and if u had the choice? go auto. easy to park. esp in those tight car park spots <_< and i thought melbourne was bad :P
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[VIC] MONTHLY MEET - SUNDAY 25TH JULY 2010
Kenshin X replied to Kenshin X's topic in Previous/Past Club Meets & Events
what you can do is meet up in the east side with tru-star, BKS, dwee and others and make your way here... thats what us westside boys did when we went on the last cruise to the dandenongs. -
i cant the way the silicon was made if i cut it i will shread the stitching on the silicon. the only way is to push the silicon pipe further up the pipe have the filter have more clearance
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Im sure there were other options too but the reason y i chose 3A over others was the shootout they did recently on all filters... 1st in flow n 2nd in filtration. k&n was like 150 compared to 30 so ill try the cheaper one first :P
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so i went ahead and got the cai installed today... after taking the bumper off so easily i knew that it was taken off in the past becuz of the flexible piping that led air in to the oem air box... with a bit of jiggling and stuff i finally got the cai to mount in the correct places paint came off a bit on the silicon but i think it wont go into the throttle body as the paint sticks tight to the silicon from the cai to the throttle body picture of the filter (3A racing) picture of it on the cai yes its very much bigger than i initially thought. and i got the trouble of fitting back the bumper on... so i jiggled the cai closer thru the silicon tube to the throttle body + tried to push the adapter for the filter further up the pipe to get more clearance. finally i got the bumper in place but the thing was its just touching the fog light also caused the mount to be off from where it should be... closer pic of the cai with battery and everthing else chucked in finished... any suggestions guys? i'm planning to try to readjust the cai so it sits further up the pipe so it clears the fog light more... but i must say... PWOOOOOOOOOOOR NINJA!!! mad induction noise and all. i reckon from 4k to 8k it now roars not the little growl it had before :P
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wtf? maybe the lebos down the street struck again? :P i agree with row, get an alarm... i should get one too <_< u can have mine if u want LOL :P did they just unscrew it or did they snap it off?
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Just follow the front bumper removal guide I printed out and laminated for you dude (Downloaded from TOCAU). But skip the step that tells you to unclip the grille tabs from the front bumper. Just leave them attached together and just flick out the 2 plastic screw clips I showed you top middle of grille and at the bottom back middle of grille. Then unscrew the 2 screws from each side of the grille. Then unscrew the 6 bolts on the diagram and flick out the 2 upside down plastic screw clips in the middle of the bumper with a flat head screw driver. Total of 8 you need to unscrew and flick out. Then pull each side of the bumper from the underguard area slowly and carefully until the hook tabs detach themselves fromt he car body. you need to untab it all the way to the grille side corner of the headlights. After doing this, you should have both sides of the bumper hanging hopelessly. Put a couple of yellow pages under the bumper to help it hang horizontally straight. Unplug your foggies. Then carefully tug at the front bumper from the bottom middle. Make sure your handbrake is on, the car will move forward when your tugging at it. If its stubborn, see if you can see the metal part of the body holding the front bumper tab inserts. try and bend the metal bit slightly with a flat head screw driver. this will allow the front bumper just to slide out easier without the need to put force in it. These can be located one on each side of the corner of the headlights closest to the grille. I've attached a more simple and easier to read version of the diagrams. Screw clips = circled in red Grille tabs = circled in green (Skip this step) You can also you Danny's post as a guide with PICS! http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26806 thanks hope this ckears up things for me... :P btw with the bar... grant said that the measurement from end to end is 1040mm... i measured mine to be 1037mm <_< grant threw in a whiteline t-shirt for me too for the trouble i been thru how about an under bar while ur at it?
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noice bump moite! :D i prefer manual (while i'm still young LOL :P ) but yes driving in heavy traffic......................... 1) pisses me off 2) makes my arms tired 3) makes my left foot tired 4) pt. 1 x2 5) pt. 1 x3 driving in melbourne isn't that bad... but i knew if i drove in cities like sydney, i'd go for a auto/semi auto. last time i drove there i had alot of people looking cuz i was revving alittle higher on the slope of george st going home to eliz bay with 3 other people + stuff in the boot :D
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yeah but thier professionalism made me give them a second chance... and why not? i'm getting a brand new one now that i've played around with the old one :P i dont know when ur free mate, how about helping me get m cai on tomorrow? i have NOOO idea how to get that front bar off......................... :P
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[VIC] MONTHLY MEET - SUNDAY 25TH JULY 2010
Kenshin X replied to Kenshin X's topic in Previous/Past Club Meets & Events
sure man, just pm me your number/sms me and we can figure something out... but u have to be ready as we will be passing by and join us :) -
So got these at bursons today: Whiteline Rear Sway bar for 155 including GST... & MAF sensor cleaner for 21 bucks ;) thanks to barry at coburg burson who let me purchase this at the same price and not the new one (180 incl GST) also thanks to talal at tyres r us for letting me borrow his breaker bar picture of the stock torsion beam... taking the nuts and bolts off, at first i was getting under the car trying to undo the bolt. had a super hard time sliding over the ground and stuff. then i realised why in super dave's guide he said to take the rear wheels off <_< yes in this picture i had the breaker bar below, i soon knew that it was easier to just do it from the top. u actually dont need to hold the bottom bolt, just loosen it and then use the breaker bar to hold the bolt while u undo the nut on top comparison to the old and new bar ok check list: 1) right part? CHECK 2) snug fit? well CHECK AFTER i wiggled one side in the hole 3) correct hole size? CHECK so far so good... i had to use the old torsion beam to hammer the new one in its place with a rag at the end... back to the check list: 4) correct alignment of the other hole? WAIT HANG ON!? wtf is this? the hole isn't lined up??? i'm talking not 1mm or 2mm ITS UP TO 4 to 5mm OUT!!! now i was getting worried i didn't get the right part and called directly to whiteline. i spoke to greg i think it was... very helpful and went to talk to the engineer for me. when greg came back on the phone, he asked me if one of the holes on the car where the bar sits on if one was enlongated. they are not. he suggested to me to put a drill through the hole to enlongate the hole to make it fit. :o otherwise if i didn't want to do that (and i didn't) that i'd have to get it returned for a full refund and get a another bar instead... i said i wasn't satisfied so he asked me to wait 5 mins so he could talk to the engineer there and see if its feasible to enlongate the hole for it to fit. so i gave him my mobile and we hung up. so i went out and rechecked the bars so for sure i wasn't trippin'... comparing left... to right... MOFO!!! this may not be a better pic but shows that im not cheating u guys (asian squats FTW!) another pic left... to right... you can clearly see the hole is not aligned. spent 2 hours getting this off and back on agian... greg called me back and said that he is very sorry and has organised a courier to come to my door to pick up the bar and get it back to sydney warehouse to have him check out with the 6 other bars in stock. he did add that they haven't had any problems with this bar since he started selling it in march 2003... and that there was only one return on it and it was a warehouse return. didn't tell me what the reason was for return. (wasn't recorded in the system...) anyways i said, if the bar was made to spec then it would have to be a perfect fit so u dont have to drill any holes he understood and knew my frustration and apoligised again for the fault and told me not to worry as he will look after me haha, i could have made this post alot shorter but then i wanna build up the atmosphere and a high and then BANG. feel what i feel now peoples? :P :P :P :P :P anyways, that moves me on to my next mod to try out tomorrow... :P
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Front and rear anti roll (sway) bar install
Kenshin X replied to SuperDave's topic in Workshop Submissions
Ahh help! The whiteline bar is a little bigger on the joints compared to my old torsion beam!!! I tried to hammer it in a bit but its tight as!!! Yes it is the right part <_< -
Actually im attempting it now. Only if i can get other thing on the car in time lol
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Front and rear anti roll (sway) bar install
Kenshin X replied to SuperDave's topic in Workshop Submissions
How do you mean, with hand tools, or literally by hand (fingers)? I assume you mean hand tools. Yes it can be done, but from factory they will be very stiff and require a long breaker bar. Follow the torque settings in the guide for doing them up. And by underbar, are you referring to the Ultra Racing one, or the one that mounts in the standard position? ahh sorry my bad. i meant hand tools (haha hands only :P) i'm talking about the rear sway bar. i got the whiteline 22mm one (BTR77) and the original question i was asking was that can u do up the bolts with the hand tools... as i dont have a torque spanner wrench... i tightened my front strut with just hand tools (but not overly tight) as the bolts were smaller... i assume the larger the bolt, the more force i can use without rounding or ruining threads... cheers -
Front and rear anti roll (sway) bar install
Kenshin X replied to SuperDave's topic in Workshop Submissions
sorry bumping old old thread but is it possible to tighten the rear sway under bar with hands? since its possible to undo it with hands so i'm guessing its also possible tightening with hands? -
If the bottom layer hasn't cured, then that would mean there was over spray. Hence, why I ended up using 2 cans of paint, because first time I had heaps of over spray, learnt my lesson and sanded it back and did it all over again properly. I suggest sanding it back again if you want it to be perfect. But this time, do short 3 second bursts of spray paint with gentle hand motions shaking the can often. Do not aim the heat gun so close for the paint to bubble like you told me it did. If it does, you are simply heating the parts to close or too long in one specified area. If you have the heat gun on a lower setting, the distance you should maintain is where your hand would be warm but not cooked by it. When I used the higher setting, I had to stand up with the painted parts on the ground and kept at least a 70cm distance. Basically, the safe distance was where my feet in flip flops would be kept warm, but not cooked by the heat gun. bubbling of the paint was actually not able to sand out all the fluff from the previous fuk up. this time i made sure i heated it up nice and hot ~200 degrees and left it for 2 hours to completely cool down... even tested it by gripping it for 2 mins without letting go and no finger prints on it... thought it was ready to chuck in. after driving to my parents i saw the fluff tranferred again. only then i realised i could have tried one thing: duct tape. duct tape part of the carpet to prevent it from transferring on the bar via rubbing when the engine is warm. but now after all that work and money, i just cbf anymore now i'm worried about the cai, although i've heated up alot of times and to the point where its too hot to touch im 100% sure its cured... hopefully all goes well... esp down at the throttle end sigh... waste of my fuken time and i thought using caliper paint which has the temp rating of 500 degrees would do the trick. just given myself more trouble than it was fuken worth :angry: :angry: :angry: :angry: never again i'm doing this sh!t pix up soon
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cuz.......................... i always gawk at it going past and all of a sudden it occurred to me that it maybe ur car today haha... and yes very smart place to park. those fuks in sunshine station dont give a sh!t about other people's property