Full-Throttle

Had the chance to take some new photos of the Aurion today :)

^ If you buy the digital type you'll also need to buy the A/C amplifier behind the glovebox or else the display won't work, and you also won't get hot air no matter what so that might not be an ideal solution ^_^ I'd say it sounds more like a relay problem. There's a small square relay in the engine bay fuse box which controls the A/C. It'd be worth replacing that first before anything else.

Thanks!! :D. The part number for the skinny metal VVTi oil line behind the engine is 15772-31030 and the part number for the metal oil cooler line at the front of the engine is 15767-31020. For the intake I had to cut some of the 45-degree degree pipe down to size (took a few inches off), and ended up reusing that piece between the straight joiner and 45-degree joiner in the pics above. If I was to do the set-up all over again I would likely use two 45-degree pipes instead as it would eliminate the need for the 45-degree joiner, but as it sits right now there's no rubbing or knocking and the set-up took minimal effort :)

That's the factory Toyota glass code. They never came with tinted (black) windows from factory, so someone has put aftermarket tint film on. You can clean it with normal water and a microfibre cloth no problem. If you decide to use glass cleaner make sure it doesn't contain ammonia.

Completely normal. They come on all Aurions and are designed to protect the paint on the very edge of the rear quarter panel from getting chipped off when people are getting in and out of the car. Most late model Toyota and Lexus models have them, as do most other makes/models.

I hope you don't mind, but curiosity got the better of me so I decided to do a couple of very quick edits on the photos above. Dynasty's with a silver lip and the OX's slightly larger:

The 20" Dynasty's look better on the car in terms of the size, but design-wise they look too floaty/unsupported in my opinion due to the lip and barrel of the wheel being black. The 19" OX's are better design-wise, but appear too small for the car due to the spokes not going all the way to the edge. If the OX's were 20's and/or the Dynasty's had a gunmetal inner it might be a slightly different story,but since the decision is between the two wheels above, my pick would go with the OX's, but only by a hair ;)

I did mine earlier this year. The spoiler is held down with double sided tape, 2 plastic clips and a couple of bolts. I was going to just use normal double-sided tape and cut it to the right size, but rather than risk it leaking again I decided to buy the genuine Toyota replacement tape which is already cut to size. The two bits of tape cost me $97 though :o, but saved me a lot of stuffing around. In my case, one of the plastic clips had a broken leg on it so it wouldn't clip into the bootlid properly and hold the spoiler down tightly. I ordered new clips from Toyota too but it seemed impossible to install them as they actually come through the spoiler rather than into the bottom of them, and there's no way to get inside the spoiler other than during the manufacturing process, so it seems strange why they'd sell these clips as a replacement. Anyway, a few days after I replaced the tape I could see it lifting slightly (probably due to one of the broken clips not keeping the pressure/tension on the spoiler), so I got some dark grey silicone and put it around both sides of the spoiler mounts. Once smoothed out with my finger it looked perfect, and there was no way any water was going to get in. So in hindsight, if I was ever to do this job again, I wouldn't bother even taking the spoiler off to begin with, but rather just seal around the sides of the spoiler with some suitably coloured silicone.

When the last thread was started about this it happened when their car was warm, which led me to believe that the ignition was thinking the key was set the 'ON' position and turned the fans on when the coolant temperature rose enough to activate the thermo switch - However, I didn't realise this was an actual 'feature' from factory until just now when I tried it on my Aurion (which has a stone cold motor and hasn't been driven for almost 24-hours). Sure enough, halfway between 'ACC' and 'ON' the radiator fan came on full blast......Could potentially be a self-check system which sends a signal to/from the cooling fans to make sure everything is working as normal. Either way, it's a pretty handy thing to have as it's always reassuring to know that the radiator fans are working at this time of the year :)

Not a problem. Here's a link to the GSV50 Aurion original brochure and the optional accessory page, which both show the weathershields fitted to your shape Aurion. My GSV40 ones were around $150 NZD from the dealership so I expect the GSV50 ones to be around the same price: http://www.toyota.com.au/aurion/accessories http://www.toyota.com.au/static/vehicles/aurion/content/pdf/aurion-e-brochure-2015.pdf

That makes sense, thanks for that, just feel the sound volume is really poor when driving in highway, no much noise from the tyre i believe. No worries. The factory Aurion stereo (all versions) have a feature called ASL ('Automatic Sound Leveliser') built-in, which adjusts the volume/tone of your music depending on the speed you're travelling, which is great for when you're on the highway. It's possible that someone has set this feature to 'LOW' on your stereo. On the basic units you press the 'AUDIO CTRL' button (the knob on the left which also operates the 'TUNE/FILE' selection), select ASL and you can choose from 'LOW', 'MID' or 'HIGH'. Since yours is a facelift Touring model you may have the colour LCD screen version (or perhaps even the SatNav stereo) so getting to the setting in the menu may be slightly different, but it'll definitely be there. Could be worth having a play around with to see if it gets any better :)

The speakers on the top sides of the dash are tweeters, used for high frequencies only (voice, instruments etc), so you won't feel any bass coming from them :). Your main speakers are located in your two front doors and the rear deck.

That window visor will fit your Aurion no problem. They get held on with little metal clips that slide into your existing window rubber channel and double-sided tape runs the whole length of the visor. The downside of that particular visor though is that it only comes on the driver's side, and lacks the chrome strip that goes around the top of the door/window. My Aurion had one of those fitted when I bought it but I removed it and fitted a set of the genuine slimline visors instead. Still does a similar job (although maybe not as much protection from bugs etc), but looks much more refined and cleaner in my opinion:

Great to hear that you resolved the problem and that it was an easy fix. Probably a good thing that duck was on the road as it likely saved you the cost of a new engine! ^_^

Yeah I'm really happy with it, definitely something I wish I had done sooner. The temptation to put my foot down all the time due to the intake sound is huge, so it takes a lot of self control :). The exhaust is completely stock, so the sound difference is purely the intake. I'll have to take a sound clip of it sometime as it truly has to be heard to be appreciated. I've probably watched every single Aurion intake (SRI) video on YouTube prior to the install so knew roughly what noise to expect, but as it sits right now it's better than I could have ever expected. I'd be interested to see what the sound comparison is if I moved the filter into the engine bay temporarily since it would get muffled quite a lot by the sound deadening on the bonnet and firewall.

Quick update on the cold air intake: Performance does 'seem' to feel better, but it could be a placebo effect due to increased noise at full throttle. The Aurion is fast as hell from factory, so noticing an increase in performance is quite difficult, especially if we're only talking a few hp. The noise is incredible - Dead silent with normal driving around town, throaty when you give it more than 1/4 throttle and it screams up in the higher RPM's. There's an audible change in sound at around the 5,500rpm mark, where it goes from a roar to a scream. Of all the videos I've watched of the K&N Typhoon intakes on Aurions and 3.5L Camrys I've never heard the noise change in the higher RPM like this one does, so my guess is that the sound resonates between the bumper and guard liner at that particular RPM. Whatever is the cause, it sounds awesome!! Immediately after driving the intake pipes and throttle body is literally cool to the touch. The actual intake temperature does seem to be a tad cooler (measured with my UltraGauge) by a few degrees compared to the factory intake. Typically the intake temp is only 2-5 degrees hotter than the outside ambient temp, whereas the stock intake could be up to 10-15 degrees hotter. One interesting/strange thing to point out is that the automatic transmission shifts are much noticeable when you're booting it - As in, you can feel the gears change due to a very slight jerking feeling. When cruising normally the gears are silk-like, but when you're on the throttle quite hard you can certainly notice it. At first I was worried about it, and ended up spinning the MAF sensor pipe so that the sensor sat straight up (like the factory orientation), but this didn't help. Don't get me wrong though, the split second pause between gears is actually something I like. It feels like you're driving a semi-auto/tiptronic rather than a slushbox that just slips into the next gear and makes that boring automatic gear change noise. As a result, the RPM's remain a little higher when it changes to the next gear, so it stays in the proper powerband and keeps pulling hard. It's almost like the shift points have changed slightly due to the increased air flow from the aftermarket intake. All in all, this intake has changed the way the car sounds and feels. It's intimidating growl is enough to turn heads, but quiet enough when cruising not to attract the wrong kind of attention. It really makes you realize how well the factory intake muffles the sound of the engine, and how amazing these engines can sound with minimal effort. Unleash the beast! You won't be disappointed B)

Hey Dave, the only way to tell for sure if your Aurion has the metal lines is by looking at them. The easiest one to spot is the one at the back the engine near the firewall, on the driver's side. Once you open the bonnet you'll see it going down the back of the engine. The facelift Aurions typically had the 'revised' rubber hose on them, which was much more durable than the rubber hose on the 1st generation Aurion but still prone to leaking due to still being made of rubber. The latest shape Aurion (GSV50) had the full metal lines on all versions however. It is possible that you have a pin hole leak in that line or the oil cooler line at the front of the engine. I have experienced both of these failing on my Aurion in the last 3 months - The rear one 2 months ago and the front one about a month ago, both of which I have upgraded to the full metal replacement. The rear one started as a pin hole leak and the only thing that caught my attention were tiny oil drops on my garage floor. Fortunately I got the car to my mechanic the next day as I was very aware of the potential disaster waiting to happen and caught it just in time. The front line however didn't give any warning whatsoever. One minute it was fine, and the next thing I know the engine temperature started rising and oil was spraying everywhere under the car. This was also a pin hole leak but squirted out the oil rapidly. Some engines have a tendency to use more oil than others, but, depending on when your last oil change was, to go through 6 litres of oil on a 39,000km motor is rather concerning. I'd be checking both the front and rear oil lines, the sump nut and the oil filter, to make sure everything is tight and leak-free. It could be nothing, but it's definitely worth getting under the car and having a look. Bear in mind that the oil lines will only leak when the engine is running, so you may have to get the car up on a hoist with a torch to properly inspect everything.

These guys do one for the Aurion which is shown on a Sportivo: http://www.clevelandexhaust.com.au/towing.asp