Ronnyboy

yep glad its all fixed

Yes the Alternator was replaced with a Reconditioned Bosch brand as Toyota no longer sell these alternators (Toyota Part number 270600H080) The other parts were also replaced (i,e Water pump, belt tensioner, fan belt, thermostat and coolant etc) but it was the alternator that was making the noise. I have added the Toyota genuine part numbers that were replaced below; 1 - 270600H080 ALT ASSY W/REG 380N (No longer sold by Toyota) 2 - 1610028041 PUMP ASSY, WATER 3 - 9091602598 BELT,V-RIBBED 4 - 1662028090 TENSIONER ASSY 5 - 0888980077 SUPER LONGLIFE COOLANT 5LT 6 - 9091603129 THERMOSTAT 7 - 1632562010 GASKET 8 - 1640136020 CAP SUB-ASSY 9 - 161730H030 PULLEY WATERPUMP 380 10 - 0882600100A - SEALANT 3 BOND 06404

Can you give a break down on the Parts, services and tools you ended up using?

This is all fixed now. It turned out to be the Alternator making those rattling noise.

There was no noise when I started the car today around 1:30pm but it’s has been warm and sunny throughout the day. IMG_9780.MOV

I was thinking it may be the water pump because it Revs a little over 2 RPM (in Park) for about 2 or so minutes when cold. I'm use to seeing it around 1.5 RPM mark but 2 RPM may be normal because of its age. I've ordered all 3 parts plus the belt which should arrive in a week.

Thanks, will do. I suspected it may have been one of these.

Hi All, There's been a rattling noise coming from the engine bay when its put into gear (Its fine in Park and Neutral) This only happens on cold starts and the Rattling sound is there for about 2 minutes then gets normal while you're driving. Has anyone had a similar experience with their Gen5 Camry (2002-2006)? Its been happening for a few months now and the following has been replaced so far; Top Engine dog bone mount 3 other Engine Mounts Engine old and Coolant Transmission Fluid Everything seems fine when its at the dealer as the car would have been driven for a while. I managed to record it today on the phone with the bonnet open and it seems its coming from where the Alternator is. I was thinking of getting the Alternator and Water pump replaced but thought id post the video here first. 253937614_enginerattle.mp4

Your local Toyota should have these bulbs. if not, they can order them if for you. I would recommend changing all 5 of the bulbs. That way the lighting brightness of all bulbs on the trim will be the same.

Thanks for the kind words. Happy to help :)

In some Toyota cars, I've seen the handbrake warning light come on when the brake fluid is low.

From memory, (this is for the two button Genuine remote) you need to put the key in the ignition and turn it from "OFF" to "ON" 3 times finishing it at "ON". If successful, the word "PROG" should come up on the clock and you should be able to program the remote by clicking on the buttons on the remote. Once done, you can remove the key. This function erases existing remote settings so before you remove the key you will need to press the buttons on the existing remote to program it.

I purchased an additional Central locking remote for a ZZE122R Corolla (Approx 2003-2007) and thought id paste the programming instructions here just in case anyone needs it. This Instruction is for the One Button Genuine Toyota Remote. Step 1 - Open Drivers side door (all other doors need to be closed) Step 2- On the existing remote, press the "Lock/Unlock" button twice. Step 3 - Insert the key in the ignition Step 4- Turn the key from "OFF" to "ON" 20 times Finishing it at "OFF", the Hazard lights should flash 20 times if successful i - The key needs to be turned 20 times really quickly (in approximately10-12 Seconds) ii - Do not start the engine or remove the key from the ignition when performing step 4 or else you will need to start from step 1 again. iii - If the Hazard lights do not flash up to 20 times after you have turned the key 20 times, start again from step 1. Otherwise continue with Step 5. Step 5 - After the Hazard lights stop flashing (upto 20 times) press and hold the "Unlock/Lock" button on the NEW remote for two seconds then do the same on the existing remote. Step 6 - To save the above, turn Key from "OFF" to "ON", then Back to "OFF", then remove key, close the driver door and test the buttons on the remote. Hope this helps.

If you can drop the back seats down and get to the boot, you may be able to push the locking mechanism with a screw driver to open the boot.

The OEM Tyres Dunlop SP300E are pretty good. I got a lot of Km's out of it when I had the original wheels on.. I also had Bridgestone Turanza 592 which was just as good... When I had these tyres they were both made in Australia. Not sure if there is much drive difference now as they are both made elsewhere