JJCRU23R

so the 6x9s fit underheith the stock grille on the rear door?

thats another question i been wanting 2 ask. if i got 6x9s or if i change the speakers on the doors at all, would i have a problem with them fitting behind the door panels or is that not a problem?

oh yea and where did you place your ampz pete?

http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p66227182

hey man!! this japanese yahoo auction is selling the under panel..

its from LAILE..

and.. it says it will ship internationally!!!! :o

its like.. $170 AUD... without shipping

8 hours left till it ENDS!!!!!!

i think ill pass :P

when i actually got some money ill consider it haha

What happened to the DIY? ? That's where i'm going along lines - cooling panel = cardboard cutout against alluminum sheet from bunnings = GOLD

jules sometimes there are somethings you just cant DIY!!!

and im not tlaking bout my wingtips either! been holding off on that spoiler install but thats my next mod whether i like it or not! buying paint as soon as i find the colourcode 4 the metallic black corolla colour!

red spoiler on silver car? you sure?

ah yes. that is a kid who was so thin. then he played WoW

i just got this image in my head...

like really dark cherry red colour... similar 2 the red break lights colour.

not bright red.

its just an idea... although i may be leaning more towards the metallic black colour.

update-

ok maybe 4get bout the red... ill settle 4 black :P

whats the metallic black colour code?

ok as you may or may not know already, i got a 8" kicker solobaric in my boot and im pretty damn happy with how it soundz.

i know many of you here wouldnt recommend using the same brand speakers all the way through your car, but since no1 has mentioned much about kicker speakers b4, i might as well pose this question to you.

i hear all this stuff in here bout MB, jl, mtx, clarion, alpine etc speakers as a replacement 4 the stock speakers, but what about kicker?

ive heard them in JBhifi and they sounded fine... but i think the guy serving me was trying 2 give me the hard sell... making my buy stuff i really wasnt even thinking about.

so in your opinion, how does the kicker speakers compare to the other brands?

quality stuff?

made from good/bad material?

why should i not buy em?

thanks jace, those pic looks awesome :D now i know wht i need hahah.. but yeh.. my friend asked me to ask around see how much ppl would do it for..

i suppose if its round 100 - 150 i wont mind getitng it done by ppl tht know but other then that im sticking with the DIY method :D

well, my friend just offered to sell me his 500W amp and a 15' kicker competition sub for 200 bucks (which i think its good price)

because lookin around i saw a 150W pioneer sub for 140 bucks then a 12inch sub would cost me another 130 - 150.. so 200 tht lot up thr is good to me :)

but prob is i was wondering.. if the head unit is going to chicken out on that big sub? haha or it doesnt matter since the amp is doing the job and how would it be like if i u hv a 15 inch down a back of a corolla hatch :S i think its bit too much but hmm managable?? hahah

50 bucks ill do it :P

u just gotta drive your ***** 2 sydney muahahaha

yes i guess the lucifer 1 is what im after!? whats the colour code 4 that?

im still also after the metallic black colour code as well if you can help me out.

thankxz

hehhee......i wasn't suggesting u paint ur car red..........i thought u just asked what colour is our car..........ehhee

sorry mish...

i know the topic title was heaps general.. but i thought i made it specific in the last sentence of my first post :P

so yea just after the lucifer and the metallic black colour codes. thankyou

Well that's odd because Bill told pete and I something completely different.

Unless I do have a completely different colour altogether. Mine was listed as Lucifer for some reason, and I do believe my colour code was different. Toyota just continually confuse all of us. I don't listen to them anymore. Everyone one here seems to know more.

Anyway, it's only going to be red for another few years. It's having a re-spray at a later date.

badboyz your avatar is disturbing.

been wanting 2 tell u that 4 a while!

muahahahahahaaha!

oh yea but yours is like a flat red right?

im after the metallic colours.

ok my corollaz colour code is silver 199.

im considering spraying my spoiler something OTHER than silver.

possibly in ink/ metallic black or maroon.

can anyone please tell me the colour codes for these or suggest another decent colour 2 paint this spoiler in????

http://page12.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p66227182

hey man!! this japanese yahoo auction is selling the under panel..

its from LAILE..

and.. it says it will ship internationally!!!! :o

its like.. $170 AUD... without shipping

8 hours left till it ENDS!!!!!!

i think ill pass :P

when i actually got some money ill consider it haha

so the remote wire from the amp will connect to the ignition wire on the HU?

yep, the remote wire should connect 2 the ignition wire thats right next 2 the speaker wires behind the HU.

Heres a couple pics thatll hopefully explain how i connnected the positive wire and fuse to the battery

although the fuse looks like its just hanging loose in there, the wire itself is cable tied in places so its definately not going 2 move anywhere.

2 make life easier 4 u when installing the converter and this positive wire, you gotta get your HU out, and remove the glovebox.

***2 remove glovebox, unscrew the 1 screw thats located on the left side... grab the left and right walls of the glove box and PULL the fcuker 2wards you. should pop straight out with the right amount of force.***

by sitting in the passenger seat and looking into the cavity where your glovebox was, you still wont be able 2 see the hole you are feeding the wire into! theres 2 much crap in the way for you 2 see that hole clearly. not even with a mirror.. tried that.. wasnt any use. all you got 2 do is jiggle the wire around and continue feeding the wire through.. eventually you should see the end of the wire hanging down near your feet and you can pull the wire the rest of the way.

yep thats 1 design flaw that i really couldnt forsee while building this thing!

i mean i could only make a guess at the centre of gravity of the box, and i basically just hoped that the weight would hold it down!

right now ive pretty much folded and wedged the nonslip mattz and so far so good. maybe i should glue the nonslip mattz to the back with my spray adhesive! theres an idea.

i havent carpeted the back of the sub. when you pull it out you can still see the exposed fibreglass.

i was going 2 paint it black but i couldnt b bothered at the time.

will let you know which solution works best.

once again thanks for all your advice guyz!

really appreciated the help.

jase

hey jase, thanks heaps for the advise! haha doing it the 1st time is rather tricky :P hehe.. thanks for the help people..

hiding the wiring wont be much of an issue but it would be good to see how to feed the wire around the area, did u have to take your head unit out so u could connect all the cable? coz the one on B pillars were really tight (is there any way to loosen them up so i could cut and splice them easily.)

another thing is im rather confused. i've heard the term remote wires quite a bit, i tried google searching it but it didnt help much hmm

for the amp connecton ....

1. if i get the RCA converter i need to solder 4 wires? (do i need to do both side - left and right speakers? or can i only do one coz tht might be easier but i dnt know if tht would change things and its ok if i tap in to the back ones rite?)

2. take the head unit out? (find this bit tricky, need to find an extension to the "screw" thing, mine is simply too short to reach :P)

3. connect up the amp power wire to the HU? (if its needed..)

should i do all cuttin n splicing behind the HU or some around the B pillars n some @ the HU?

thanks :D

kenneth

* some pics would help a lot! Thankssss heaps! i will post pic along the way when i start on it :P

well on your amp u should be able 2 see that to power the amp, you need 2 connect 3 wires. the positive wire (on my wire kit its thick REDwire), ground wire (thickBROWNwire), then the remote wire (thinBLUEwire). the amp needs to be connected 2 the head unit via the remote in order to tell when the stereo is in use. if the stereo is off, the amp would also shut itself off. simple enough right?

if i described the function of the remote wire incorrectly, please feel free 2 correct me :/

as for the converter, my guess is it wont matter if you connect it 2 the front or the rear speakers. but i chose not 2 f*ck round with straight 4ward instructions and soldered the wires directly behind the HU itself.

as 4 finding the wires in the B pillar.. i hear every1 saying i should connect it that way, but since i plan on upgrading my headunit later on, i thought now would be a good oppertunity 2 see how 2 get the head unit out.

behind the HU, all the wires i need 2 solder into are there; and when i upgrade my HU im going 2 need those RCA cables to reach behind the HU anyway! plus i already have the proper RCA cables that can reach from the boot 2 the dash, so yea i dont want 2 lay the cables down twice! just do the job right the first time and be done with it. and when i do eventually upgrade the head unit, itll be straight plug n play coz all the wires are where i need them 2 b.

the only 2 cables that should connect 2 your HU from your amp is the RCA and the REMOTE.

amp gets power direct from the battery with the + wire (with in-line fuse).

the ground wire connects 2 the nearest bolt that you can connect it to.

the remote.. ya i went through that already.

yea i had my dads sidchrome extension knob thingy laying round so yea thats what i used 4 unscrewing the HU.

ill add pics later..

oh nah.. im not going to pay 175 for tht.. hmm there is 125 on buy it now but yeh i was doubting it but yeh..another option is to get a saperate amp n sub (which i think i would do..)

thanks neway :D hehe.. but connecting it all up to the head unit is gna be smething rather hard when i hv next to no experience with it :P

i hooked up my kicker sub and cheapo amp just a few days ago for the first time in my rollas stock stereo. ive done it b4 on my old car but that was easier since i had a JVC cd player in my landcruiser which had the RCA plugs on it already.

since our stock headunits dont have RCA outputs, go 2 autobarn for a

AERPRO Speaker to Line Level Converter - AP304 = only $14.95!

the converter has 4 wires which you need to connect with your front left & right speakers (+/-) wires.

just splice the speaker wires and solder the converter wires on, then cover the exposed wires back up with electrical tape.

ALSO, if your amp doesnt power up after its all wired its probebly coz you may not have connected the "remote" wire on the amp 2 anything.

there was all different advice in here bout that but i connected my remote wire to the +12volt ignition wire.

if your amp works anyway without connecting this remote wire, then dont worry bout connecting it.

check here 2 make sure youre soldering on the correct wires :P look @ "1987 and newer"

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=4060

all the other instructions are found somewhere in these forums, just gotta search 4 em.. but 4 me, putting in the converter was the missing peice of the puzzle.

i dont remmber seeing advice for the rest of the wiring up for the amp in here, but if you need any help i may b able 2 post some pics if you are unsure of where 2 feed the wires from the battery through to the inside of your car, hiding all the wires etc.

even though the wiring kits and the converter has diagrams, it helpz 2 see actual pics 2 go with the diagram u know?

jase

umm are any of you sydneysiders able to hold my cooling panel 4 me until the next monthly meet?

yea i was thinking of making a harness of some sort.

the non slip mattz dont seem to stick as well as iwould like...

velcro maybe?

all i have on my amp is RCA inputs with a switch above it that says high/low input. so how would i connect RCAs to a spliced rear speaker? is that possible?

You can convert from RCA to std line with a converter, I think you get them from Autobarn, Tandy's, ***** Smith or something for like $25 or something.

Weird it only has Low Pass input....

na what i meant was that the switch is there so you can choose whether you want the amp to work on either high or low input, while using the same 2 RCA (red/black) plugs.

ANYWAYZ...

after that last post i made i did come to that realisation that there MUST be a way of connecting a sub to a stock HU. after searching the forumz and reading the other threads bout DIY sub to stock HU, they didnt offer proper solutionz and i knew there had 2 b a better way but i didnt know what... so i rocked up to autobarn bout 3pm and found exactly what u were talkin bout azza... but yea $14.95 for the converter!

i pulled out the sub wiring out of my landcru23r and yea its sitting in my boot waitin 2 be wired up.

i hooked up my kicker in my brothers celica to see how the sub looked and sounded when it was powered up.. but yea his amp is much higher wattz than my lil kicker should handle so i kept the volume low hahaha! least it works. he needs 2 get this RCA converter 2 coz his sub is connected to 1 of his speakers coz he has a stock HU as well.

as long as it works properly, its fine with me. ill hook this thing up tonight when i get home but im still at work.

thankx 4 ur help azza, even though your post came up like at almost exact same time i was already at the shops picking up the converter :)) i got the recipt 2 prove it too if ya dont believe me :P

great mindz think alike ay?

Sorry guys, this has been covered a squiilion times before....

Anyway, if you connect through the Low Pass (RCA) then this will always be a better avenue as the signal is clearer, however, as we all know, the stock HU does not have RCA out...

What I have done in my car, is located the rear speaker wires in the B Pillars, and spliced into these and diverted the signal to split it between the rear speakers, then off to my high pass on my amp.

Ok, the sound is not as great as a low pass output from a decent HU, but it works for me....

all i have on my amp is RCA inputs with a switch above it that says high/low input. so how would i connect RCAs to a spliced rear speaker? is that possible?

i cracked open my right hand rear door and saw the speaker cables that lead to the rear speaker.. they are thin az!

oh yea, in order to save money im not going 2 buy an amp or wiring kit.

i still have my old strathfield generic amp which was screwed onto my old sub box with housez 2x10inch weconic subz. they were 400watt each and the amp was i think 600wattz max?

so in theory if i hooked it up with my kicker i should get a maximum of 300wattz out of the amp. my kickers RMS is 300 so for now, since im dead broke, this will do perfectly... 4 now.

as 4 the wiring kit, ima source that from my old landcruiser too :)

Steal an a-pillar trim for me next time you're out there Jason ;)

names Jared (its k everyone gets it mixed up)... but I'll forgive ya lol :) ;)

Yea next time I'm there I'll ask m how much they want 4 1 n let u noe (tho it may b a while till I go again)

There are like, 3 Jasons up there dude and I get all of them mixed up, and then I think EVERYONE's name is Jason. I'll think Subway next time I talk to you. Jared the spokesman. Yeahhh.

Oh yeah man it's the drivers side a-piller as well of course ;) Cheers man.

i believe he was talking to me bout that a-piller :P

in the past few weekz (maybe months) ive seen toyota commercials promoting TRD! im sure it was on free tv - not foxtel.

am i the only one whos seen this?

featured the corolla rally car doin roostertailz down a dirt track and said something 2 the effect of "when we win, you win"?

some kinda catchphrase like that...

i was thinking initially that they were promoting TRD.. or maybe they are just talking bout how they are developing their range based on what they learnt through TRD and racing or something and not selling the actual TRD parts, which wouldnt make much sense either.

either way TRD stuff is 2 damn expensive 4 my liking.

as long as the part fitz and it works i dont care if its reTaRD or not. mostly coz of the ****ty service and huge cost

hey silvabullit have you seen the C-ONE under panel?

you think we could get them made as well????

ok im sick of this frikken project. sick of it!

no i dont have an amp 2 hook it up 2 yet.

actually i have an old 1 from my landcruiser that should do as a temporary amp... but i still got a stock HU, so no rca cable hookupz.

and the wiring kit... dont have 1 for the corolla yet.

although i did test out the speaker by hooking it up 2 an old ghettoblaster and i did get sound!

as 4 the box being completely sealed... i think i screwed that by putting that terminal in the back, but yea ill fix it after i got the thing hooked up and im bothered to perfect it.

as long as it fits, and itll produce bass when i hook it up, im happy.

END OF STORY.

if you want a closer look, i may come to the next monthly meet so you can check it out then.

PS - after taking a quick spin, i noticed the sub FELL OVER after making a hard right turn. any advice on keeping the sub in place??

oh yea heres a pic of the box after i added the fibreglass filler and bondo, but b4 i sanded it all down 2 make it as smooth as i could without buying more damn putty

a word of advice..

ive searched heaps of DIY sub box tutorialz, and came across 1 that was slightly better than the otherz while i was in the middle of fibreglassing the back of my box.

in this particular tutorial, the guy cut a peice of MDF for the base of the boxwhich makes a lot of sense (for strength and stability purposes) and fibreglassed the walls and top of the box. so when he pulled the fibreglass out of the car, the mdf came along with it coz it was more or less glued to the fibreglass. now i DID have an MDF base to begin with (you can see it in 1 of my first pics in this thread), but i decided not to do anything different from the tutorials that ive been reading just 2 be on the safe side. but yea found out later that my initial idea was done by someone else and it worked for them!

so yea once again, i could have used that bit of information B4 i started my box.

another useful tip that i WAS able to use was that when youve already done a few layers of f'glass and you still think you see thin spots, weak areas or tiny holes in the corners of your fibreglass, just mix some resin+hardener and pour it in and let it roll round in those weak areas. it wont take long b4 the resin hardens and youve pretty much sealed any holes you may have had.

a good way to tell if youve properly sealed every little hole in the box (subwoofer not yet screwed into place) is to pour bout 1 1/2 shot glass's worth of water inside your box, hold the box up and let the water roll around. if you have any holes in the fibreglass, youll obviously be able to tell if any water manages to fall to the floor. then remove the remaining water in the box with a cloth and leave the box out 2 dry b4 sealing the holes.

i did that exact thing this morning and found that i missed a hole in 1 corner.

so yea the most important thing is that the bugger is hole proof! thats the point of making a SEALED box.

if you wanted to make a ported box, i think youd be better off buying it coz i saw the instructions for making a ported box for my kicker and i couldnt be bothered! good luck if you choose to make 1!

right now im considering the best way to wire my box up.

tutorials rule against using a TERMINAL BOARD when wiring up your box. and if you havent decided on your method of wiring by the time your box is mostly done then you have little choice but 2 drill a hole in the back, feed the wire through and seal it with cilicone or something 2 that effect.

NOT ME. ima be a difficult bugger and give it a go anyway. main problem in using terminal boards is the risk of air escaping... in other words, holes in the box.

2 counter this problem im going to make an mdf ring similar to the sub rings i made for my kicker. ill fix it in with fibreglass and yea should be good as gold :) UPDATE - BTW I DIDNT DO THIS. JUST SCREWED THE TERMINAL STRAIGHT IN WITH A BIT OF CARPET MATERIAL IN BETWEEN. GONNA USE FILLER ON THE INSIDE 2 SEAL ANY HOLES.

i managed 2 go back 2 supercheap to get the hardener they didnt give me when i bought my fibreglass putty and bondo the other day. coz they hide the hardener tubes under the counter of the cash register and the checkout chick 4got to give em when i bought them.

the checkout chick almost accused me of being a paint sniffer or something!?! when i asked 4 hardener, she said in a full defensive tone "we dont JUST sell the hardener - youve got to buy the putty!" then i said " i bought 2 cans of putty/bondo just yesterday! i didnt get any hardener!" then she said "well who served you then????" like as if im going to remember her name and what she looked like as if i was trying 2 pick up the chick or something?! i just want my toolz and my putty and im out the frikken door.. i dint stop to ask her name and ask her out on a date?!!?! (no i didnt say any of that but it did enter my mind considering the way she was speaking 2 me).

but yea then i produced the recipt. damn lucky i had that in my bag coz im sure i wouldnt have gotten anything from her otherwise.

she took a quick look at it and i had 2 wait another 5 minutes for the girl that served me 2 come to the counter and she confirm that NO, she didnt give me any hardener. while waiting she served bout 3 people behind me who werent in the best of moods either. they just wanted 2 buy their sh!t and leave.

ANYWAYZ...

in other news,

bought some felt already.

its black though. my interior is grey >:/

i bought 1 metre = $9.95 with my VIP card. its enough 2 cover the whole thing, but didnt buy 2 much just in case i find the right colour.

obviously spotlight didnt have the right colour felt (thats the closest matching material 4 my conquests interior)...

my local autobarn doesnt have it in stock.

supercheap doesnt sell it.

repco has 2 order it in.

does anyone know anywhere else that might have it????

oh yea ive decided to go and paint the back of the box matt black, once ive smoothed out the rough edges and got the dirt off that stuck to the back of it.

the front im still thinking of vinyl if not carpet.

right now im concerned bout the slight irregular shape of the box on the top half... how carpet will mould to the slight dips and bends without 2 much fuss...

which do you think is more durable? which could take more than a couple bumps?

that reminds me i gotta order the grille that goes with this sub.

you cant buy my sub in australia but you can still order the grille for $50 from jbhifi?! how odd is that?!