neK

Almost 3 years after owning my corolla, the front bar has always stayed in perfect condition (except for stone chips), its never been bumped.... EVER.

Anyways, tonight is the first time its been hit, and it was hit by my gf's younger sister who some how could not see that my car was actually parked behind their car in the fcking driveway.

So after some screaming and yelling therapy, ive taken a moment to assess the damage.

My front bar is still good, some minor scratches, but what annoys me is the gaps and the fact that its no longer flush.

Ive seem some car repairs where the bumper has been totally fcked up, and after the smash repair fixes it, there is still a huge gap.

So what i want to know is what are my chances of getting this flush again??

And how much will it cost (not that I care so much cos I'm making her pay every single cent for her incompetance! - How the hell can you not a see a PARK car behind you when you're reversing, especially when the car is <75cm away!!).

i ended up getting the $20 one from DSE (the CRC CF Contact Cleaner) which leaves no residue.

Whats an extra $10, im sure it will come in handy later :D

Anyways, i ended up cleaning the MAF and IAT sensor.... car definately idles lower, and is smoother in delivery.

Now lets see if fuel consumption goes down :D

Thanks for all the advice guys!

when i changed my OEM headunit to another OEM mp3 headunit, i noticed that there were three ports, however only 2 were actually used. Im guessing the 3rd port is for the cd changer?

hmmmmz

If thats the costs (before customs + GST) we might as well all import them separately.

Jade picked it up the CAI @ $245 USD (delivered to AU), which is $325 AUD.

hi... got my aem cai of raceoptions two months ago..... it was relatively cheap.... cost me a total of USD$245 including postage..... postage was only $60US.... drop them an email and they will come down in price if you deal outside of ebay ;)

they were great to deal with....

So $165 + 60 = 225USD = $296.96

Cant we just get them all shipped separately instead then? WOuldnt that bypass customs??

Just realised, they are requesting $298USD for shipping of 4 units when Jade only paid $60USD for shipping of one unit, if my maths serves me correctly, then the shipping costs should be <$240 USD.

And if JAde is located in hunter valley (As stated in their profile, one would think that shipping to a major city would be cheaper than a non major city).

Sounds like the companies are trying to milk us

http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=5549

All goods (except for tobacco products and alcoholic beverages) may be imported duty and tax free if their value is $1,000 or less.

Note: However, where there are multiple packages to the same addressee in Australia from a single consignor overseas that arrive at about the same time, then the value of all packages will be combined for duty and tax assessment purposes. Refer to example 1.

Is it possible to clarify IF the $1000 limit includes the actual shipping costs??

Im actually thinking if its possible to have 2 CAI's shipped at a time? That would ensure that there would definately not be any import duty or GST (im assuming when they said TAX FREE they meant GST free cos thats the only other tax that gets slapped on - based on the examples provided further down on the customs page).

If we get them shipped to two separate address' (Gazoom for one, and a trusted TOCAU member - i nominate Xoom. :P then we can arrange pickup amongst ourselves). Obviously if we feel uncertain we can ship to individual address.

Cos if they come as one address they will have the whole consignment valued together (and we potentially have to pay additional taxes).

EDIT: Have sent customs an email requesting some calcuation/tax advice on items being shipped that are valued <$1000 (inclusive of shipping costs), and what taxes would actually apply.

PS: Who is prepared to install a CAI for me?

I can provide you assistance in fixing PC's, doing your tax returns (if its basic :P ) and providing financial advice (but not info on direct shares), however if non of those are of interest, theres always a carton of beer

Return it and get the other one, the light green can.

Because it also lubes, it leaves behind a film of lubricant. This film of lube easily allows particles to attach to it. The O-Ring just rolls off. Give it a few blast. Let it dry, its really quick as it rapidly evaporates.

Cheers

Im guessing you're talking about this one?

Or should i go to D1ck Smith and get this

CRC NF Contact Cleaner $19.95

CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe formula is a technically proven, stable, inert high purity cleaning solvent. It is non-corrosive, non-staining, and has a rapid-complete evaporation - contains no lubricants.

It is formulated to remove light contaminants, dust, lint, atmospheric⁄oils, finger prints, moisture from precision electrical⁄electronic equipment where lower-flashpoint solvents may be used. It leaves no residue to increase resistance. 350g can.

or

CRC Switch Cleaner Lubricant

A specially formulated lubricant that provides the single operation of both cleaning and lubricating sensitive switches and contacts.

The special solvents used can chemically dissolve and quickly clean away oils, grease, dust and atmosphere contaminants and then quickly evaporate to leave a thin film that will protect and lubricate the surface. 300g aerosol can.

hmmmmz

ive just bought one from JayCar

Electrical Clean and Lube.

CAT NA 1012

Should i return it then?

Whats a good Contact cleaner?

For the O-ring, just get a flathead screw driver and place it undernieth and pull it out and up.

Metho is also good to clean the MAFS, just so you don't have to run out and buy electrical contact cleaner.

When you say get a flathead screwdriver and pull it out, im assuming the actual "T" shape object stays in one piece and the O Ring expands like a normal rubber band which allows you to simply roll it out?

And ive just gone out to Jaycar to buy some Contact Cleaner... $9.95, the Jaycar stuff is good to use right?

where would you put the adaptor anyway?

I dont see any holes.

Aint Bill driving one of these at the moment?

air bags??? wtf!!!

I wonder what year toyota they are targetting...

I dont think they are trying to palm you off, but they cannot fix something they do not know and cannot see. Its like computers, unless the component is actually stuffed, you'll have a hard time trying to fix and diagnose it.

How do i actually remove the O Ring?

From the picture here

it looks like its all one unit. Does the "T" shaped item twist off for me to get the O Ring out? Or can i simply try to be more careful and not spray the O ring at all.

What happens to the swelling of the plastic if it comes in contact with the O Ring, i read somewhere it will just swell temporarily but then go back to normal afterwards.

Oh and after i spray the MAF and IAT sensors, i should just hold on to it until it dries (how long is that btw) and then just screw it back in?

Thanks again for all the info!

Thtas the problem with intermittent faults, it never happens when you take in for warranty.

Maybe get a video camera and film it while its happening to prove to them you're not lying?

change me to a tentative "in"

Costs will decide whether im in or not.

You will prob lose a bit of power down low and response due to the increased length of pipe.

When you say down low... roughly what range are you referring to? (And what rev ranges for more power)

My car is a 1zz so its revv'ed as hard as the sportivos.

Oh and the car is auto.

This place here has injen at a fairly decent price $218 USD

http://www.hopupracing.com/inrdcoairint.html

they are cheap yes but dont ship internationally they can to a degree if you pay for all the shipping fees etc after all that bs not worth the price

Does anyone know someone in the US who can get these and ship it to us in Australia???

Also, will i lose any performance installing a CAI if the CAI is my only mod (ie stock exhaust/headers/etc).

You don't see animals doing this to each other. That's the scary thing. Where has the harmony gone in the world?

Reminds me of a scene in Terminator 2 (where Arnie is talking to John Connor in the desert area)

"Is it in your nature to destroy yourselves" (referring to human race).

Clinton was a crapload better than Bush. At least he thinks before acting (well we all know he thought with something else too, but yeah he's only male lol).

I agree with you 1ZZ-FE...greed is destroying the world. One of the seven deadly sins, and possibly the most vile.

Mr Bill and I had an interesting chat on the phone last night about all this, and the more I speak to the guy the more I become elightened about things. Believe nothing, and trust no one. Especially the butthole media and government.

At first i thought you meant you were talking on the phone to Bill Clinton. LOL

Then i realised you were referring to another forum member.

Thanks for that!

Now i know where it is, i might be able to do some cleaning :D

Now for the next question, which one is the MAF sensor?

http://www.nopiforums.com/index.php?showto...entry9135

(Post #20)

I just take it out like shown in the picture right?

I dont really need to take apart that that "T" shaped unit apart do i? (ie take the actual resistor looking object out? or do i just spray it at that point?)

Im guessing the guy has confused the MAF sensor with the IAF sensor? (Based on the info from this pic)?

Now what about the "O" ring what do i need to do with that?

Dunno if its high powered or not, they use some sort of ultrasonic (vibration) device to clean it...not sure on the pricing, never done it before. Well my car use to idle around 800rpm its currently at around 600rpm after cleaning the MAF sensor, if you use an oil based filter (K&N) then I suggest cleaning it each time you clean your filter. You will save some fuel, not that much but throttle response is much better and your car feels smoother. I started a topic about cleaning MAF sensors last time

Cheers

Actually thats exactly what i got.... a K&N panel filter (pre oiled).... hmmmmz, maybe the MAF sensor is dirty... anyone in Sydney that lives around the Canterbury Bankstown area that can help me out?

Ive also got a K&N Panel filter (pre-oiled) changed it on my 40000km service...

Havent done anything to it since, coming up to 60,000km. Should i oil it clean it or do something??

Terry Wrist and Al Kyder. LOL

ive read thru the thread, but i still have no idea how to clean the MAF sensor.

For starters where the hell is it?

I dont have CAI just a standard Airbox with a K&N panel filter.

Can anyone supply photos of where it is?

Sounds exactly like my car... Auto conquest currently at 76K...396km when the light comes on///"(

Maybe its too early, my mechanic suggested getting the injectors cleaned properly....not those bottles that you put into the tank before you fill up :D

Cheers

You referring to the fuel injection clean that costs like $100 or something? The one where they have some high powered device to flush out the gunk??

What about the MAF sensor, ive read about ppl cleaning it? Whats the benefits of cleaning it?

autotimer = turbo timer?

Im seriously getting worried about the fuel consumption in the car.

My car is Auto and has done almost 60000km.

Previously the car would get driven harder and get 300km by half tank, and at least 550km before any lights came on (this is on the regular 91 ron stuff, i would get 50km more on the 98ron premium)

These days its getting 200km by half tank, and 420km when the light comes on (this is on 98 premium too :o )

WTF is going on? What can i do the improve the economy? Is there something wrong with my car? Any particular things to look out for or get my mechanic to do on the 60000km service?