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You're welcome, Newbie. As for Rustproofing, I think it would depend on how long you intend to keep Aurion. If you 're thinking to keep it for 5 or more years, then it will probably be prudent to have rustproofing. You never know the kind of places your car can possibly go through during that time, unless you're like my elderly neighbour who has a 3 door Yaris and who tells me she only uses it to go down to the shops (3 mins away) and buys fuel once every 2 months. If you're going to replace it in a couple of years (With a newer Aurion maybe?) then you'll probably need to consider whether the few hundred bucks for rustproofing spent will give a worthwhile improved resale value. Having said the above, if you have the spray on rustproofing then it probably won't make much difference to resale value. However, if you have an ERPS, it would probably be worth more, because it's something the potential purchaser can see, and is documented (if you retain the installation docs and receipts). It forms part of your comprehensive vehicle history, which buyers always love to see. Cheers, BB

Aren't they all made in China nowadays?

Drive in heavy stop-start traffic much? 12.1 L/100km does sound a bit on the high side though, Silver-Aurion. Then again there are so many factors involved : Traffic, lead footedness etc.....;) Cheers, BB

Yes, before buying. Check out the girl :P LOL i will take the blonde at the bottom thanks Yep, I'll take two thanks.... while I"m at it I might as well buy a bottle of vinyl care too.... Cheers, HONK HONK

If you open your door on the sides, there's a recommended tyre pressure. 40 does seem a bit too high. It's a matter of choice. Some people go follow the recommended, while the others go with the pressure they're comfy with If you have alloys with skinny rubber, then you would pretty much be running them on higher pressures. If you have standard wheels on standard factory rims, you should aim for between 32 - 36 PSI. This will provide a good balance between tyre wear/loading and comfort. 40 PSI will give you a very bouncy harsh ride.... You'll feel every bump, groove and imperfection on the road! :) Cheers, BB I forgot to mention that the tyre pressures described above are COLD pressures. Add approx 2 PSI to the above range if your tyres have warmed up. Small, but important detail! Heh heh.....

If you open your door on the sides, there's a recommended tyre pressure. 40 does seem a bit too high. It's a matter of choice. Some people go follow the recommended, while the others go with the pressure they're comfy with If you have alloys with skinny rubber, then you would pretty much be running them on higher pressures. If you have standard wheels on standard factory rims, you should aim for between 32 - 36 PSI. This will provide a good balance between tyre wear/loading and comfort. 40 PSI will give you a very bouncy harsh ride.... You'll feel every bump, groove and imperfection on the road! :) Cheers, BB

Hi Newbie, The topic of which is the best fuel has been covered at length. There's probably a wealth of info on this, so you might want to try searching first? If you still can't get answers to your query, then feel free to post a specific questions. The moderators get rather annoyed if the same questions keep getting asked over and over again.. However, as a matter of personal choice, I only use Premium ULP (eg PULP 95 - Shell, or Vortex 98 - Caltex). Can't really help you there.. I'm in WA and you didn't specify what style alloys are you after. There are at least two styles I know of from Toyota - standard alloys like on the Presara and the Kappa 17". Yes there is, and you have two main options. The first is the good ol' spray on stuff by any rustproof/tinting provider (eg Tint-a-Car), and the second option is to install a ERPS (Electronic Rust Proofing System) which is a module installed in your engine bay which provides electronic protection by preventing the loss of electrons from the atomic structure of the iron in the steel components of your vehicle (i.e. prevents or greatly minimises RUST). You only need one module for the whole car. They are available from a Toyota Dealer, or you may choose to go for an aftermarket module. These are available from a 4WD shop or a good auto parts shop. I personally went the ERPS way because it covers everything and NOT just the undercarriage. Spray on stuff covers your undercarriage, but not anywhere above it.. Congrats on the new ride! Cheers, BB

I've seen the same kind of symptoms on another car before (granted, not on an Aurion though) and it turns out the Fuel Pump was starting to act up, and could not deliver fuel to the engine when trying to start. You had to turn the ignition Off and On a few times to cycle power through before everything works. Soon enough, the damn thing didn't even want to start AT ALL and when the mechanic had a look, she found that the pump failed because the seals had perished. My mate had started using the new BP Ultimate fuel at the time and we reckon this either:- 1. Wore out the seals or 2. Was sufficient to trigger the failure of the pump, which was probably on its last legs anyway?. However, this was a 1990 corolla we're talking about. It had also travelled 250,000++ Km with the original fuel pump. Since your Aurion was built in 2009, it'd be very surprising if your fuel pump was the issue! I presume you've checked your battery connections too? You've also kept to the servicing intervals? You haven't made modifications like NOS kit, blow off valves, Super/Turbo chargers, extractors... aftermarket racing ECU? You have good quality fuel in the tank? I'm leaning towards the possibility of the cause being something electrical, possibly your immobiliser. Apart from that, NFI dude. Cheers, BB

For me, I simply bought a dashmat and slapped it on. Problem solved. From here on, all I need to do is just a quick vacuum of the dashmat every so often and I won't need to worry about it ever again. You can put stuff on it and don't have to worry about messing up the dashboard, and if your dashmat looks a bit tired after a few years, just take it off, bin it and put on a new one. That's just me though... some people don't like the look of dashmats.... Reckon it goes well with the furry dice and the bobble headed labradoodle Oh yeah!! LOL Cheers, BB

bush1e, I can think of possible reasons why you would possibly use the gear shifter:- Towing a heavy load - limiting the range of gear changes puts less strain on the box (Towing 101 - towing a trailer in OVERDRIVE is not the best thing to do for either an auto or manual trannie). You're going up a bleeding steep hill - this may be moot because the auto downshifts anyway. For those who want to utilise max power in the rev band, you can use the gear shifter to select a gear which allows you to access the max power rev band. You're going DOWN a long, bleeding steep hill - limiting gears will help to (slightly?) ease the strain on your brakes. However, bear in mind you ARE driving a petrol, so there's bugger all engine braking anyway and there's always the risk of blowing your engine if you're not careful. You want to feel like you're driving a manual, which you ain't....... but hey, if you wanna pretend you're driving a manual, sure.. whatever floats your boat dude! :P You can limit gear changes so you can do FWD burnouts. I don't know WHY you would WANT to do this though. It's not exactly cool or bright, to be honest. Personally, I let the auto shifter do all the work and haven't had any reason to use the gear shifter yet. Cheers, BB

Applegarth is right. Use quality fuels and you'll find you probably won't need to use injector cleaners. On top of that, you'll probably also find that you get better fuel efficiency too. Another good way to clean out your injectors is to every so often do a nice long drive at max country speeds (eg. 110km/h in WA) for a minimum 30km or so. This does wonders for injectors by blowing away whatever crap is messing up the spray pattern thus bringing up performance and efficiency, plus the engine also gets to burn off any collected soot or sludge/crap etc that's built up. If you aren't able to do the long high speed drives to "burn off the built up crud in the injectors", the next best thing is to avoid CULP 91 (CULP - Crap Unleaded Petrol). BTW, has anyone noticed that ULP 91 has a totally different color to PULP 95 or Vortex 98? Me thinks there's lots of leftover crap from the refinery in ULP 91...... either that, or this must me a local phenomenon in my area. I also wonder if anyone else has noticed something unusual with fuel from Woolies branded petrol stations. These are NOT the Caltex ones, just the pure Woolworths ones. I've been buying fuel from Woolies for a while (not for my aurion, but for a company vehicle which I'm only allowed to put non-premium unleaded into, so I only put in the cheapest n nastiest fuel I can find!), and I've noticed that their unleaded tends to FROTH a lot. I mean actual froth, like bubbles which stays there and doesn't disappear. This is totally different to fuel bubbles. It's almost as if I'm filling the tank with dishwashing liquid, bubbles and all..... I also notice that the company car has been running like a ****bag and I'm betting it's the cheapa$$ fuel I'm putting in it. Either that, or that's how Fords normally are. No offence to any Ford drivers out there. Anyway, bottom line is, if your car gets to do enough long distance or sustained highway speed (100km/h or more) driving every couple of weeks, you probably won't be needing to add injector cleaners to your fuel. This is even with lots of stop/start traffic driving between the long drives. Cheers, BB

Yeah, mine does it too... It's a known issue.. I'm surprised that Toyota hasn't come up with a fix for it, considering the Aurion has been around since 1806. Anyway, it doesn't detract from the fact that it's an otherwise pretty well built car. oops.. I meant 2006!!

I've tried that John! In 2008 while showing off my new corolla levin ZR with smart start keyless entry.. key in pocket, friend jumped in and drove away about 200mtrs. FAIL :D :D I shouldn't laugh but i pictured you standing there watching your new car leaving... Seems way to easy to steal I think..not good well imagine you have a car with normal keys in the ignition and the motor is running..if a thief gets in it and drives it away its the same thing..i think keyless or with a key its best not to leave the car running and go for a walk :P What WOULD be awesome is to somehow have the Keyless FOB act like some sort of wireless killswitch.... eg, if they steal your car, once it gets out of range of the FOB (say..... 50m?) the car shuts down, and all the doors LOCK and (in the case of a presara) Toyota Link gets sent an automated distress message which includes location and status of vehicle. The cops can be immediately notified, and all they need to do is pick up the crims who are locked in the car. I s'pose it'd probably be too much to ask for nerve gas to knock out the occupants of the car too until the cops come............. Anyway, if it were possible and legal, that would make a pretty awesome security feature!! TGIF.... ......... Fridays are for dreaming up cool ideas...... this is also the most productive day of the week for me! LOL!! Cheers, BB

The one in my car is Version 16, which is the latest version and it's on a DVD made by Whereis. You should shop around the net and see if it's cheaper to buy it that way. I think it'd might be more expensive to get it from the dealer (I've heard it could be as much as $250 bucks from the dealer). As for burning copies of this DVD, apart from the obvious illegality of it, I'm not sure if the DVD reader can read DVD-R or DVD+R...........

I'm not really sure if it is "human" error, as you said, Kenshin X. From personal experience, I think it has more to do with the pad/rotor combination. I once changed the pads on my Landcruiser to Bendix 4WD pads. They worked a treat and stopped the Cruiser on a dime. However, after about 25,000km driving the way I normally do, I noticed braking started to become very uneven. When I pulled the wheels off, I could see distinct warping of the rotors!! The heat buildup was so tremendous that the standard OEM rotors simply could not handle the extra performance from the pads. Needless to say, I had the OEM rotors junked and had them replaced with DBA Gold cross drilled & slotted rotors. I retained the Bendix 4WD pads. This combination worked like a dream, from riding the brakes down Greenmount hill (10% downhill grade for about 2km) to your normal day to day braking in city traffic, it never faded. I had to ride the brakes down the hill because I was fully loaded up in the Cruiser with my mate's gym equipment (probably about 300kg worth) PLUS I had a trailer full of my mate's furniture!! Ahh... the things you do to help out a mate who's moving house. Anyway, you can imagine the stress the brakes and rotors underwent. Engine braking in this instance wasn't really sufficient, even for a Diesel. Ultimately, the pads lasted about 115,000km, and were replaced because I had the Cruiser undergo a full and complete service and check up from top to bottom for a road trip from Perth to Broome then back to Perth. Didn't want to have any brake issues while flying along at 110 - 120 km/h in a heavy, fully loaded Landcruiser...... I noticed there was only very very slight wear on the rotors too, which was a very pleasant surprise. I guess the lesson I learnt here was if you are going to upgrade your brake rotors, make sure they can handle the pads you're putting on too! IMHO, DBA Rotors are definitely very good. A bit pricey, but they are certainly fit for purpose. Cheers, BB PS. Do you really want to cheap out on something that's going to potentially save your A$$ in an emergency situation? If it were me, nope!

Thanks everyone for the fantastic response! And thank you to the "test pilots" who actually pushed the button while driving along to see what it does! You're nuts, but hey I'm grateful for the results you got from your experiment!!! Cheers, BB

Yeah, I think you're right. I should leave the foggies alone. Just looked at a picture of the front of the car and the plate holder painted would look really neat. Seriously, I have the crappiest luck these past two days. You know what I did today? Was parking the car behind another car in the driveway, and I smashed the Aurion into the bull bar of the car in front. I freaked out because the car in front dipped so badly and it made that scary crunching sound. I guess I went too close, lol. Went out to inspect the damage, nothing at all EXCEPT the bull bar cracked my Altrax number plate cover :(. Need to buy a new one for the front now. Seriously, TWO dings in two days? wtf! Need to take some chill pills I think, been stressing these few weeks on some unrelated matters and my mind is wondering a lot Dude, that seriously sucks.... these things normally come in threes too

Yeah, mine does it too... It's a known issue.. I'm surprised that Toyota hasn't come up with a fix for it, considering the Aurion has been around since 1806. Anyway, it doesn't detract from the fact that it's an otherwise pretty well built car.

Dirty terminals can cause this issue too...... Had something like this happen to my LandCruiser a while back... was cussin and swearing at the battery I paid $450 for about 3 months ago.... Then I realized the terminals were dirty... like really filthy. You never know.. it could probably be something as simple as that....

This might sound a bit silly but....... Is your transmission in PARK?

Maybe this could be of some help? http://au.toyotaowne...=1 I have a 2010 Presara (Sept build). I also have the genuine interior footwell ilumination kit installed by the dealer. They are a set of 4 blue LED's which light up the footwell. They are not linked to the light sensor, so they still come on even if it's daylight. As you approach the vehicle when its dark, these LED lights automatically turn on, together with the dome light. None of these light blink on and off, rather, they turn on softly and turn off softly i.e. dims up to full intensity and then dims down to off. They are really nice, and give a classy blue hue to the footwell at night, which makes it really cool. They turn off after about 10 seconds once the last door has been closed. They automatically come on when you turn the engine off at night at your destination. As for installing the interior illumination kit, I got my dealer to install it because I just couldn't be bothered with tinkering around with it and potentially messing up other stuff.

Hi All, I tried looking through the FAQ's and previous posts about this query but it doesn't seem that it's been brought up before. Ok, here goes. This may be a very unlikely scenario but I'd really like to know what would happen if it DID occur. My query is related to the keyless push button start for the Aurion Presara. Just to be clear, there is a button in the Presara which you push once to start the engine, and when you've arrived at your destination, you push this button again, to turn off the engine. My query is this :- What happens if this button is inadvertently pressed while you're driving? I'm not game to try it, but is there some sort of inbuilt safety feature where this button is disabled while the vehicle is in motion? I know that when you push this button to turn the engine off at your destination, the steering lock also kicks in. If this happens while you're driving, and you happen to be going into/out of a bend, you can end up slightly (or very) dead. The reason I'm asking about the push button start is because I had a friend with her 2 yr old in the car being a curious s**t climbing all over the car and pressing buttons everywhere. The kid, I mean, not her. She's very lovely. It just started me thinking about how safe the push button start/stop is........... Btw, the kid totally messed up my seating memory too... nearly had a very nice imprint of the steering wheel on my stomach and my face squashed up against the windscreen. Kids are evil! Cheers, BB PS. Yes, I know the inevitable, "What dumba$$ would press the button while driving anyway??" questions will come up. This is merely a HYPOTHETICAL question for a possible scenario, however unlikely it may be.

It most likely will :P Nah if you only bought your car a month ago that would mean unless it's a demo it would only be a few months old at the most so it would have the problem fixed at the factory. Doubt this car has the potential issue. LOL.... I went, "DOH" then "Phew!" within a span of 2 posts. Oh well.. I guess I'll have to wait and see. I went to have a look at the rear tail lights last night in my garage. I can see why it's going to be a real B**ch to remove and replace yourself.... dang!!. Thanks for the input Ronnyboy & Adamsy!

Man that sucks.... I hope this doesn't affect mine. I took delivery of a brand newie presara less than a month ago...

yeah you should get the avatar set up so we know how your ride looks like..personalized numberplates and you wont be missed :) Yep, my Presara makes that clunking noise when I first drive off after the car has parked overnight. Usually happens after I reverse it out of the driveway, put it in Drive, and move off. Never noticed it after the first drive of the day though... Fact or Fiction - There is a little known quirk the Aurions have in that if you've been feeding it PULP eg. Caltex Vortex 98, and one day you decide to use a Woolies 8c a litre discount voucher for cheap and nasty ULP 91, the fuel lid actually detaches from the car and b*tch slaps some sense into you. Cheers, BB