Suprathai

Intending to pull off my headers off tomorrow and porting it myself (Note: No prior experience in grinding/porting whatsoever ).

The question I want to ask is where do I unplug the Oxygen sensor from?? Where is it located??

Cheers

So what are you looking to upgrade first??

I would go in the following order....

Front Splits (Woofer + Tweeter)

Sound Deadening (cost about 120 for front doors only)

HU (Anything from $300 upwards would be fine)

If you want SQ then forget about the rear speakers, but thats a personal preference thing. Oh yeah, and one thing that you should really do is the sound deadening...its makes a really really big difference.

Cheers

Remember that hub dynos usually post slightly higher numbers, but have higher precision compared to your conventional dynos. Given that once you've got your baseline, its more accurate in measuring the difference then the dynos that most of us encounter.

So if we start off with a 110kw atw(baseline) to 150kw atw (with piper cams + Stoker kit)....we are looking at a 40kw increase........which would set if off to around 180kw (more due to inertial and heat loss actually) at the flywheel???? Is that about right, or am I off my head at the moment. Really shows the capability of the Motec ECU....damn.....but the price... :o

yikes

would need about 600-700hp I suppose to run into the 10s bracket....

Skyline will always win with the extra amount of torque in it, not to mention a good 500-600cc larger capacity engine.

Additionally I had a go against a astra turbo.....neck to neck, until I ran out of room.....I was quite happy with myself after that

Did you turn on your speakers?? Or maybe your speaker wire came loose?? It worked fine for me

550hp on road fuel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh BTW thats a 3S I believe under the bonnet

Is it still too late for me to join in this GB?? :(

I'm after s12 if possible, if not the S10 then, not much of a difference I reckon.

Anyways hopefully someone can keep this updated.

Cheers

Just curious at the moment, but when we are talking about pipe diameter are we referring to the OD or ID??

So the TRD CAI has an OD of 2.75"???

Cheers

Quite an interesting way on how they mounted it there.

I don't think there is room in the sportivo because of the ABS unit in that spot. Not enough clearance between the inlet manifold and the radiator too.

Would love to see how it completely unfolds so that we can get a bit more inspiration into getting the rollas into the FI category and fill up the empty FI quarter mile list.

The colour and badge would surely bring the power output up to 500hp...I think I know what my next mod will be for the sportivo then

I would take the Megane RS F1 for that price with its turbo all paw characteristics.

Or keep the stivo and think of something extreme

I just can't get over the rear end of the car........its ugly to me....

It will be in the 40's I believe to replace the Integra Type R/S

I'm a Toyota boy, time to update the sportivo for a bit more go!!

Those flat spots were already present with the ported headers but more apparant with the prototype headers....more tuning is needed I suppose....but now that you mention it.......there are two flat spots........unless I'm wrong.

It sucks if our Sportivo lift point is the same as the US XRS...just imagine lift at 6800rpm

I already know about the CES ported headers. But lets see if this developer can come up with something that out performs the conventional port and polished headers and give us a bit more top end ommpf!! Personally I'm not a big fan at the moment with the abrupt change into the high cam mode at 6K rpm, I wished it was a bit more linear...time to get a power fc which means alot of money...:(

Cheers

Well they were tuning the vehicle on the dyno, so I believe that those were optimum settings.

Well to give you more info, head over to newcelica.org.

BTW the following are the specifications of the vehicle

2005 Corolla XRS

Injen CAI

P&P Stock Header/Race Header

Full 2.5" Mandrel Exhaust Decat/No Resonator

Bored 68mm TB

Hondata IM Gasket

The two graphs are comparing ported and polished header VS a prototype race header. The original developer said this is his version 1 type header while giving a huge gain in midrange rpm didn't produce the top end power that he expected, so its looking promising as the best header for the 2zzge at the moment is generally a ported version of the stock header!!

If its not too expensive and goes into production it is definitely worth taking a look at...even shipping it all the way from the US!!

Cheers

Too late for me to join in for the S12? Just to confirm that it comes with a silencer right??

Cheers

If you like the sound of turbo cars, then you should get this

Cheers

The 3 door T-Sport Compressor was a limited production run to by pass euro 4 emission standards. The 3 door never made it to Oz let alone the Compressor. There use to be Compressor kits for sale, but I think they have all been sold out...DAMN!!

Cheers

Green Tea is Me

Nutella and Nescafe is the Missus

Jaycar bag is my voltage stabilizer kit in the making, still need a fuse holder and resistors.

After a the trip back from work, this is one mod that I definitely recommend. Unless of course you could find a CAI for under $50.

I know the one your talking about Tayles, its the Razo Leather knob with red stitching. That one looks much better in my opinion, but for $34 I'm damn happy!!

I was actually after that gear knob, but on the day of planning to purchase it (found it on www.modyourcar.com) went to e-bay and saw this beauty....couldn't find it last time and bought it straight away.

Cheers

Just got my latest mod for the corolla, its a Razo 480g gear knob (approx 2 x hearvier then stock)!!

I know its heavy, but apparantly it can help reduce some of the notchiness that is found in stock gear shifts. Only drawback though is that it needs a bit more force to move....but once it gets moving the momentum from the heavier gear knob should allow it to slide home much more better. Well thats the advertising and theory behind it.

Will give a brief review tomorrow after I come back from work. Got it for $34 delivered brand new!!. To get a gear knob that heavy from TWM over in the US (or is it canada) cost about $124USD delivered which should be around $160AUD!! I'm waiting for the cable and base bushing set off them.

My current aim is to get a more solid gear change, so maybe a DIY short shifter is on the menu.

Opps forgot to rotate the image lol

UPDATE: Ok, couldn't resist it until tomorrow. Installed, and it sits a bit lower then stock. Funny thing is that the gear shifting seems lighter (?), the notchiness is still there but not as apparant. The overall shifting motion is much more smoother!! Overall it has a better effect then changing to synthetic gear oil and all for only $34!!

Cheers

check your connection again at the back of the HU, did you solder your connections?? or use tape??

Do these pads need bedding in?

I find changing gears around about 3.5Krpm makes you move away from the pack of cars no problems.....changing at 2.5krpm makes them stay with you.

only thongs are illegal......and maybe sandels too...........bare feet are fine!!