Pippy

i think you're thinking about the old 'Garage' section, that's when i did post some photos and the list of mods... but removed it... :P anyway... some photos up... will update as i get them ready...

I haven't done a dyno one since that dyno day (refer video) so i'd say i'm making that much power. I've done about 10,000kms now... still going strong. crap load of torque, redline 7000. Goes ok, not really aiming to be a dyno queen. :)

Ok everyone!! Updated again!! More teasing... coz no photos posted yet... :P

I think you're correct!! :) I am Member number: 355, i believe i am the first and only green corolla here... well... ZZE-122 Levin at least ;)

Hehe, yup that's me... when the car was in the 'Raw' state... :P hehe... have done some finishing touches and added more goodies to the car since then tho. Will spend sometime and put together all the photos...

Hey guys, I figured its time that i made some posts on my car, since i've been on this forum for like forever!! Its come a long way from what it was... but i guess heaps of noobs don't know who i am or don't know my car.. :P I will be updating this post as i get the photos ready... and i will try and do it in a timeline manner... :) The BEFORE state List of mods (pre June 2007 - NA Levin) Engine/Exhaust/Power mods - AEM Cold Air Intake (Photo) - Thunder 4-1 Headers (Photo | Stock Comparison) - Toyota Sportivo Cat back (Photo) - 60mm Increased Bore Throttle Body (Photo) - TRD Thermostat & Radiator Cap - Denso Iridium Spark Plugs - Fidanza Flywheel (3.8kg) (Photo Front | Back) - Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch kit Suspension/Handling/Brakes mods - A&Z Coilovers (Photo) - Previously Koni Sports with King Springs Low (Photo) - Shortened and strengthened Sway bar links (Photo) - Whiteline Front and Rear Swaybars - Braided Brake lines (Photo) - RDA Slotted front and rear rotors - Lucas Brake Pads Wheels/Tyres Some history... - Started Stock of course - Lenso RS5 w/ Nankang NS-2 - Sold (Photo) - ROH Boost R (white) w/ Toyo Transpath SW - Sold (Photo) - Enkei RS+M w/ BFG G-Force Sport (Photo) - Enkei Alloy Racing Nuts Other mods - Purcell Performance Short Shifter kit ICE - not going into great detail with this... - Dynamat extreme all doors and boot - Dynamat Speaker Kit (all speakers including sub) - Alpine 4 Channel - MB Quart Splits (front) - MTX Splits (Rear) - Alpine Monoblock - Alpine Type-R 12" Sub in Alpine Enclosure - 1 Farad Capacitor - Stinger Wiring & 10A Fuse Rice mods - Genuine TRD Aero Grille (Photo | Stock Compare) - Custom Painted Headlights (Photo) - C-One Eye Brows - H7 HID Conversion Kit - Toyota Echo Sportivo Shift Knob - Shadow Chrome Side Indicators - Short antenna - Red Console lights, green parkers and other Ricey colour changes.... :P I am sure i have missed some things.... I will add photos a bit later for the mods. :) The AFTER state - The Purcell Performance GREEN Vechicle List of mods (post June 2007 - FI Levin) Engine/Exhaust/Power mods Power/Drive Train - TRD Supercharger (Eaton M45) - JDM Celica C60 LSD 6-Speed Gearbox - 60mm Increased Bore Throttle Body (Port matched to Supercharger) (Photo) - TRD Thermostat & Radiator Cap - Toyota (Denso) 2ZZ-GE Fuel Injectors - Denso Spark Plugs - Fidanza Flywheel (3.8kg) (Photo Front | Back) - Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch kit - Alloy Oil Catch Can Electronics Ahh... gotta love wiring... :P (Photo) - Innovate Wideband O2 Sensor - Apexi PowerFC w/ Custom Loom - Greddy 60mm Boost Gauge (Photo) - Greddy 52mm Gauges - Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, Water Temp, Exahust Temp (Photo) Purcell Performance - DIY/Custom Ahh... the 'Boss' hard at work. Just call him Wilson and... That's this real face!! Honest!! :P - Custom Strengthened SC Idler Pulley - Water Injection Kit (Photo) -> 120psi water pump -> 4L Water custom tank -> 6psi Activation switch - Custom Boost Controlling Solenoid (2200rpm) - Alloy 5" Rampod Intake w/ K&N 5" Pod Air Filter - Custom 4-2-1 Exhaust Header (Another Photo | Heat Wrapped) - Full Stainless 2.5" Exhaust w/ Metal Cat (Photo - Metal Cat) - Fujitsubo Stainless Rear Muffler (Photo) - Solid Cast Polyurethane (Shore 75) Engine Mounts - Polyurethane Exhaust Hangers - Battery Relocation w/ Custom Charcoal Canister - 13 Row Oil Cooler (Mounted behind Aero Grill) - Short Shifter kit - Centre Gauge Pods (Housing 3x 52mm Gauges) (Photo) - A-Pillar Gauge Pods (Housing 1x60mm & 1x52mm Gauges) Suspension/Handling/Brakes mods - A&Z Coilovers (Photo) - TRD Front Strut Bar - Shortened and strengthened Sway bar links (Photo) - Whiteline Front and Rear Swaybars - Braided Brake lines (Photo) - Purcell Performance Big Brake Kit (Photo | Fitted | Rotor Comparison) - A&Z 4POT Calipers - 302mm Slotted Rotors - Hawk Performance Brake Pads - RDA Slotted Rear Rotors - Lucas Rear Brake Pads Wheels - Enkei RS+M w/ BFG G-Force Sport - Enkei Alloy Racing Nuts Rice mods - Genuine TRD Aero Grille (Photo | Stock Compare) - Custom Painted Headlights (Photo) - C-One Eye Brows - Custom Purcell Performance Supercharger Plate (MUST SEE!! DIY at its BEST!! Photo) - H7 HID Conversion Kit - Toyota T-Sport 6-speed Shift Knob - Toyota Corolla Sportivo Leather Shift Boot - Shadow Chrome Side Indicators - Short antenna - Wrinkle Black Cam Cover w/ Matching Coil Pack Black plugs (1zz usually have yellow Coilpack plugs) - Short antenna - Red Console lights, green parkers and other Ricey colour changes are still there... :P I am still sure that i have missed something... so i will update it as i remember what else i have done... AND I AM NOT DONE YET!! More goodies to come!! :) Some Progress Photos.... Photo 1 | Photo 2 With the use of the Innovate Wideband O2 sensor, the PowerFC could be road tuned with a few of the goodies the 'boss' has... (rollamods) PHOTO This is the tease for now... if you don't believe that i have these goodies... photos are coming very soon... (or if you search around the forum they have been posted here and there around the place, or talk to Northy)

Thunder is a Taiwanese brand, and they make 4-to-1 headers for 1zz corolla. They are popular amongst the 'Altis' community and is sold all across asia. Speak to DHC09, has he has a set which i used to own. He had them ported prior to installing. The picture is wrong, it looks more like a set of honda headers. Cheers.

If anyone is interested in a set of greddy gauges like the ones in my din slot, those exact 3, let me know.

What do you mean how do you connect them?? For both mechanical and electronic gauges just run the sender wires/mechanical sender (tube) through the firewall (there are several places where you can get through the firewall), then just connect up to gauges. Its the same for both DIN or A-Pillar mountings. The control unit for electronic gauges will fit nicely behind the gauges.

I believe this is what rollamods is talking about... It is possible and is not hard to fit. I have the 3 gauges in the din slot, and one 60mm and one 52mm on the A pillar. The gauge holders/pods were all my handy DIY jobs.

The rattling can be fix by replacing your stock floppy hangers with stiff polyurethane hangers. It is the quickest and easiest way to fix your problematic CES exhaust, and it will look heaps better than zip ties and stuffing bolts into your stock hangers. PM me if you're interested.

The 06+ sedans and wagons have prefacelift lights with facelift fog lights and take the same spoiler as facelift, which would be easier and cheaper. Assuming you want to keep the preface lift headlights, grill (get a TRD grill maybe?) and bonnet. (which i think look heaps better than facelift when painted).

The C64 off the sportivo actually has a shorter 6th if you compare it to the 5th on the C52, due to a different final drive. However, the C60 off a Celica would also fit with same final drive but taller 6th. (3rd is also taller) Just for clarification, i have plotted the gear ratios from the toyota brochures comparing a sportivo to a 1zz corolla MANUAL TRANSMISSION (i.e. C64 vs C52) The graph only goes to 6500 RPM for the sake of the topic (i.e. in a 1zz) and units are in MPH. If you want a longer 6th for cruise you are looking for a C60 (which has the same ratios as a C160) I can plot up C60 vs C64 and C60 vs C52 if requested. cheers.

Looks to me the 'swoosh' is a cheap copy off the Purcell Performance logo and even the colour looks familiar... whatever happened to the original TOC UK/AU colours?

wow... lets see.. 2 engines... 2 gearboxes.. 4 clutches... 2 rooted shafts.. 0 driving school lessons? haha! just joking mate... seriously tho... you haven't been having a good run since your 1zz. :( well... good to see someone else has a similar problem, but sucks about the price tag on new shafts... :( Seriously tho, i leaning towards that the SA stock has some QA problems from over tightening stuff to now drive shafts...

i am pretty sure the throttle bodies are different. also, the 2zz tb from memory is 63mm, the 1zz would only be able to accom. for 61mm max as the plastic manifold does not have the physical ability to seal the flange hence also making it impossible to be port matched. However having said that, the 2zz tb is good for about a 5mm increase in bore, but the intake manifold would have to be port matched. the improvement in performance should be 5-7hp (thanks 51eka!) however, from personal exprience with my own tb, the improvements are more evident with intake and full exhaust exp headers. I have a 61mm internal dia. tb. with the mouth flared to approx 74mm. It would also make a considerable improvement if your car is force fed. You will find that on the TRD supercharger kit for the 1zz, the blower intake port flange will port match a 60mm tb. hope this clear things up a bit.

Dugong, the bored tb on a force fed 1zz esp with the TRD blower, you'll notice that at 60mm it'll port match the blower inlet, and the results from that single mod alone is worth doing. read up with the US guys and be amazed. :) cheers.

gosh... would this ever end... just put a plug in it all of you... S/C has it advantages and disadvantages, and the same goes with turbo. to leave the mechnical capabilities alone, for the sake of simplicity of the application versus price, the s/c kits on the market would be a more straight forward approach to improvement, where things are pre-fabed to fit and with minimal mucking around. as for the turbo setup, there are way too many ways you can do this hence there's no ONE KIT comparison available. now on to the mechnical capabilities, with the length of the runners into the snail, in the corolla, then lengths would be short as, hence the turbo would spool early as bill mentioned 2800rpm. Yes, it is true that it would not be as good on hill climbs, however, the 2zz counterpart s/c kits i.e. blitz, are not that great for hill climbs if you're comparing it to a early spooling turbo setup. the blitz s/c kit does not reach boost till about 3000rpm. unlike the TRD 1zz kits or other s/c cars, the blitz kit has to deal with the intercooler much the same way as the turbo does, i.e. lag its a debate that can go on and on and on.... hence if we are going to compare and have a cry about what's best, lets name specific setups and then start comparing. frankly, to me this topic is wayyyyy off track. bring it back to what the title suggests... where are the updates on the CES 2zz car? 'looking good' what is there to look at?? more piccys maybe? charts?

"ITS ALL STOCK OFFICER!!" but yeah... grey rolla, give us a quick run down on the mods so people can get an idea, as small things such as tb can have big result when combined with intake size, etc etc. cheers.

He's already got an piggyback, and as for CAMs, it'll be way too much mucking around and $$$ involved in dealing with local people that 'actually' know what they're doing, not to say its a bad mod, but its still yet to be proven to be good bang for buck. I don't see how boring the tb out can cause any weakness, especially if you have seen the structure of the tb itself the restrictive sections are pretty much in the middle sections where the overall internal diameter has been reduced with raised sections. Boring would effetively bring the mid section to the same dia. as the open on the manifold end, and also, the tapering towards the intake pipe end are almost left untouched as it is already well above 60mm. For the one sitting with rollamods, it has been cleaned out to a decent 60mm which port matches the inlet on the intake manifold, and as for the opening it has been smoothed out on the taper to a decent 67mm. Greyrolla, you know too well who that throttle body belongs to. Having said that, if you find someone that is willing to do the job, i am willing to lend you or sell my my spare so your car can have minimal down time. here are some photos to support the arguement... cheers.

man... corey... did this one turn in to fluff like the one you had in your 1zz?? :( ...or have you gone through 2 in the ol stivo?? besides you should be in the know with topics like these!! :D holy... i'm still on my first set and still plenty of meat left!! and you should know how i drive... i've gone through 2 sets of tyres and still on the same clutch... need to learn to control those heavy feet of yours! i think any full face would be a good replacement tho, coz they tend to last bit longer than other 'race' clutches, as your pressure plate should still be ok (and cheaper that way)

1). Is it true that the Short shifter some how stuffs up ur gear ratios ? No, it pretty much saying does it add an extra gear to a 1zz gearbox by having a sportivo 6spd knob? 2). Is it easy to install? (i.e: Is it easy to remove the casing around the gear handle?) If you know how it came apart, you'd know how to put it back. Take photos of how it came apart if required. its really quite straight forward. 3). And should I buy the TRD Short Shifter for $300, give or take, from Rolling Blk? lol. Personally, $300 is a bit exy. Alternatively, look at the short shifter kits available around for a third of the price, and also throw lengths can be requested from TRD range or even shorter. I have one and i have also driven with TRD short shifter, all i would ask is, why would you pay 3 times more?? http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=7417 Cheers.

I think where mine is looks ok... anyway... do i see GREEN?! :D coz i'm been waiting to see another green rolla on the forum apart from myself!!!

replies and votes made are based on what people has experienced. Very limited people have driven or used as a daily driver on different setups. On a personal note, most of the taiwanese brands may have the same casing (i.e. G4s, D2 etc etc) they have very different strut inserts and spring rates readily available. Regardless of what brand, the approach would be to understand what it is you want your car to do and make the splash with the one you can afford. there's not much point comparing a $900 taiwanese job to a $3k JDM setup, where in actual fact the taiwanese setup might be better suited for your needs.

You boys just need to look harder. Most subbies use 25mm thick rotors. Most Mid size mitsu use 24mm thick rotors. A few Mazdas also use 24mm rotors. As far as rotors go, it is easy enough to get custom rotors with changed offset or stock offset in various sizes. (i.e. 285mm, 302mm or 330mm) In terms of mounting position, hardcore aftermarket calipers allow a different style of mounting, where rather than being a single piece cast for the mounts. it is avaliable in 2 piece setup, hence allowing totally custom mounting brackets. some calipers that take 24mm rotors can take 25mm rotors, however calipers that take 30mm rotors (i.e. supra, nissan 4pot, brembo F50, AP Racing, Bigger willwoods) would require custom rotors to be made at 30mm thickness. hope i haven't confused things further. hint: Look through various brake rotor catalogues, they give away the offset and thickness of rotors to help narrow down the selection of calipers.