Pippy

Hello people, thought i'll share this with you guys :) these are my latest dyno sheets. Damn happy with the results. So do i lead the 1zz team so far? :) RESPECT the 1ZZ!! ;)

Guys, seriously. If you read the posts in the forum, this guy tried selling that engine on this forum, and of course that was the response that everyone gave. However, the potential of a 1zz to pull 147kw at the flywheel with not force induction is quite possible. :) it might require some work, but the guy has not specified any mods (e.g. polished ports, enlarged throttle body, etc.) which are all quite possible... hence he's probably not "dreaming" just keep and open mind boys... :)

even if the purchase was made from japan and the PFC was ordered by Apexera, it doesn't mean that its them that makes it. Apexera never made the powerFC... it was Apexi all the way... they might be the "same company" but now... "Peoplesoft" isn't "Oracle" now are they?! I don't think so!! same deal... (excuse my nerdy example... :D)

lol! good call mello you crack me up... :D

i'd suggest having a look at the engine layout of the ZZE-130 they are the same as our rollas, but with the battery in the location that you want it to be in. (both 1zz and 2zz) either way, the CAI designed strictly speaking don't have to do too much in terms of getting around the battery, however, the length that you wish to design would determine the torque/power of your engine and definitely throttle response.... at the end of the day, unless you have your own dyno to compare the differences, i think it'll be a project that'll require you to go by feel and not go very far.... i can say this coz i've been there and so have many others

Giddy up! :D that's what i was trying to say.... gee... did i sound rude? oops... :D

dude! every car's the same in terms of its basic electrical concept.... can't you be a bit creative?? instead of asking people to hold your hand in doing your custom job? custom jobs are called "custom" coz it does require you to think and design a "custom" approach to your problem.... peace... :)

hahaha! that's a good one silva! :D rust... lol.... everyone's got rust on their brakes! :D the stock rotor coating's pretty good.... the RDA rotors are shockers... :D my rotors look more gold/bronze than silver now... :(

Count me in! :) i'll bring a friend too...

Depending on how you want to improve it. 1. By going lowering springs won't make things any better. Lowering will definitely look nice, but it will screw up your stock shocks and make the car bounce around. 2. If you want to go the "stock" apporach, you should go for Koni struts + Lowering Springs. Koni sports (yellow) are adjustable dampening struts, which are good for street and light track use. The springs in the other hand are probably no good for heavy driving or track use. 3. Go Coilovers. Coilovers aren't as "hard" and "rough" as people may think. Have been in the car with MAP81, and coilovers are really nice. The main difference between koni and coilovers in terms of ride comfort is that, they are both just as hard (depending on how hard you adjust your koni) BUT, the springs are HEAPS better. Imagine yourself going over a speed bump, and its hard going up. However, on coming down, the 'stock type' springs/coils will bounce more. As for Coilovers, the spring rate are much harder, and will not bounce annoyingly. In terms of price: Springs only: $150~350 depending Koni + Springs: $1300~$1700 Coilovers: $900~$2000+ so it really depends on your budget. Hope this helps. if you look in the 'for sale' section there are some suspension setup for sale. ;)

i think the parts aren't really free... the time they screw you around to get something fixed is kinda stupid!! and in the case of a screwed gearbox.... 2 things i have to say to that... 1) bloody learn to drive and be nice to your car. i.e. not just driving hard. 2) a screwed gearbox? YAY!! Time for NEW RATIOS!! :D anything that blows.... gets an upgrade!! :D

Stop being all excited about random topics!!! and bloody learn to post properly!! FFS!! i believe it you want to know more about MR2 then please post inthe MR2 section!! also, i believe the questions you have asked can be answered easily by common sense or a little read into the to appropiate sections!!!

that is true, but if you're into mods, warranty doesn't play much in the picture! :) besides, what warranty claims do you want? read the fine lines, as lots of the parts that you muck around with aren't covered by warranty anyway... and anything major... well... that's why you pay for insurance! :D i've got the 5yr extended warranty from toyota, but they didn't cover for my boiled brake fluid after i cooked my brakes at morgan park.

LOL!! "MY FRIEND...." come on people... i believe this thread started by asking you each for your individual time?!

My car has never gone to a mechanic to get "serviced" i do the oil every 5000km, and with every "major" service required.... an upgrade has happened... e.g. Brakes, Thermostat (coolant, radiator cap), clutch/flywheel. as far as the "inspection" of things that they do... mmm... i don't trust any of them... coz i believe i can see just a good as them... pffft... "inspect" the last time my sisters car got the "inspection" done they even failed put the wheel lugs back on properly.... Cost of self service: Labour: $0 Oil: $45 Oil filter: $3 Carwash and wax: $0 Visually Inspect: All rubber mounts/seals Wheels Engine (mounts, belt, alternator) Battery Brake (pad&fluid) power steering fluid Coolant Wiper Fluid Headunit/Sound system mmm... gee i loose track of what i look at... :D car is smooth as and have not given me any problems ANYWHERE!! :D

Select one to suit your driving style. You'll find that the more and fast your wear out your pads is probably not a bad thing, otherwise it'll be the other way around. i.e. aggressive pads tend to wear out the rotors instead.... (isn't that right shao?!) I use Lucas, cheap and reliable! :) have not faded on me yet on road or track! :D sensitive but not too aggressive... ;)

How overdrive works The overdrive consists of an electrically or hydraulically operated epicyclic gear train bolted behind the transmission unit. It can either transfer the input drive shaft directly to the output shaft, called a propshaft (1:1), or increase the propshaft speed so that it turns faster than the input shaft (1:1 + n). Thus the propshaft may be "overdriven" relative to the input shaft. It is actuated by a knob or button, often incorporated into the gearshift knob, and does not require operation of the clutch. Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overdrive_(mechanics)

Why not try it and see what it does? :D Overdrive it not really a physical gear, personally speaking... I doesn't give you more power, as the term has been wrongly used... e.g. "Lets shift into OVERDRIVE" Overdrive allows your car to at lower revs (at idle revs) when you're driving at cruising speeds... notice how if you have overdrive on at say 100km/hr, the revs will only be at about 2000rpm, but if you accerate to overtake or something, the revs kinda jumps up to about 3000rpm, and makes a sound similar to someone doing a bad shift on a manual car, hence without overdrive the revs stays up. You can think of it as crusing at almost neutral, to save fuel of course. :) donno if i got the wording right... but its too early... anyway... peace

they look so nice... and stops so much better too!!! mmm.... i think this just moved onto my wishlist for xmas....

That's right!! That was how shao and i did ours... ;) an i must say its the only way to do a proper job!

Yes they are manufactured in taiwan i believe, and those pictured are parts for the corolla. :) infact if anyone's interested can let me know... also, the top mounts are direct bolt on to the rear strut tops

Summit makes front strut bar, rear strut bar, and rear member brace. for the front strut bar its orange at each side, where as the rear strut bar and rear member is orange whole.

evl_50a dude... this is simple physics... torque is a measure force in ability to turn, and in launching, you have rubber flex to convert that torque to the rubber then to the ground.... hence bigger the wheels the thinner the rubber, hence more direct force to the ground will almost no rubber flex... and hence the reason why rubber on larger wheels run out faster... you don't see any drag car running low profile tyres now do you?! in terms of performce... off the mark you'll loose... but around the corner you'll probably do ok if you have good rubber, because for the same reason! you have less side wall roll on the tyre, hence you'll be able to "feel" everything... but more stress on your suspension... have a think about it... i've owned 15s, 16s, and 17s... personally i think 16s are ideal for our car... i'm not asking for any agreement here... but just by chance... the TRD Runx run 16s too... gee... makes you wonder why doesn't it? why don't you go and borrow some and try both 16 and 18... then see for youself... otherwise it'll be like trying to explain sex to a virgin! ;) peace

that'll explain why i don't have idle problems! :D i've done/got all 4 for the past 2 years! :D haha~

have a look in some of the "garage" site.... (e.g. mine...) you'll find a few cars with king lows... and super low... i've got pictures of my car on king lows.... on stock stivo 16x6 and enkei 16x7 wheels... as well as 2 sets of 17x7...