LiftToy2

Thanks - I think you are right re the pillow mount. I also see the fun to be had tightening it. Will try this over the weekend on one side and see if it makes a difference.

Mate this is wicked - great work - pratical and sweet! Warning - once you start with LED's you can't stop! next it will be the little boot light...then under seat... Awesome!

I'm running a set of D2's and I get the same knocking noise - particularly if the shocks are cold, once they have warmed up it appears less. It only comes from the front - nothing from the back. I have made sure everything is tight, no binding and even oiled everything up. I'm at the point of pulling them out to inspect them. Alternatively if someone knows somewhere in Sydney where they rebuild/service coilovers I am sure they will know this issue and how to fix it. Don't feel bad for buying second hand as I am sure you are happy with the awesome handling!

Yeah Tassie has the best lifestyle!! The roads are great fun minus the potholes and speed cameras The sound definately has to match the sound!! So the price at $880 is a what you pay for you get sorta thing? $800 dollars is a lot of money in anyone’s language, and would it be the first $800 dollars I would spend modding the car - no. It all depends on priorities and preferences when driving. Will you be disappointed with the large twin pipes, awesome noise at full open throttle, high build quality or bolt on fitment? Again if you value these things it is hard to go past the Remus. The thing I love about these forums is all the different experiences that people have with their systems and if you buy a quality product that is endorsed by people here you will not be disappointed. I say go the Remus and good on your Dad - next you’ll say he owns a brewery!

I have a Remus and am very happy with the sound. Quiet at low revs and noise when you hit the loud peddle (and lift)! You will also notice a good improvement in driveability across the rev range (I think that it works best with a CAI) and don't forget to get a quick shifter! I am so jealous of those fantastic Tassie roads you have - just made for our cars! Exhaust or not - ENJOY!

TRD Shifter is a great mod - simple to install - did it in the carpark of Castlehill toyota (installed the shortshifter that is) just so I could drive back with it. If I could pick only one mod to do it would be this. Cleans up the shift movement (mainly by replacing the rubber isolating mounts with solid steel) This gives a much more positive shift feel and a shorter shift. Do it!

I have the Whiteline one - It has made a difference - however it flexes. You can feel it when cornering, really good initial turn in - then as the loads increase the steering geometry changes slightly. When I popped the hood and had a look I noticed that I can flex the strut brace just by leaning on it. It looks great but the whole idea of it is to eliminate the flex. As for snapping it - if you adjust it too far and put too much tension on it, then yes it could snap under load and the flex would create metal fatigue. I have the TRD rear strut brace and it is rock solid. I am looking to replace the front brace with a TRD one.

Firstly it is easier if you remove the battery first. the Snorkel is attached in three places where it connects into the airbox itself, and also by two screws/bolts. Start by removing the two screws/bolts that attach it to the chassis. To remove it from the airbox - open up the airbox by releasing the spring clips and remove the air filter. You will now see the snorkel - you should be able to see the plastic lugs that hold it in - squeeze the sides of the snorkel in and push it out - it comes free without too much effort. Then it is a matter of massaging the whole snaking intake runner free - from memory pull it forward towards the front of the car. As I mentioned in the previous tread if you want to leave the snorkel there - just disconnect it from the airbox - make sure you push it clear so as not to obstruct the airbox opening (that way you can just push it back to return it to stock). sorry I don't have pic's but it is really simple when you have the car in front of you and you don't have to be mechanically minded to do it. I have done a few so PM me if you want help

I agree - rip that snorkel off! I found the stock Stivo really difficult to drive smoothly at low RPM's around town - removed the snorkel and heaps better - smooth down low, roars up high. I added a DIY cold air feed up from the foggies (which I cut the plastic away from) and again improvements particularly at highway speeds - added a K&N panel filter and slight improvements in both response and sound across the range. It depends on if you want to keep it stock and leave the intake plumbing in place. (You can still leave the snorkel in place - just disconnect it from the air box and move it to the side - this way it can be popped back if need be) otherwise you will only get small gains from the K&N filter as it is not the most restrictive part of the system. Remember Toyota used this design to reduce induction noise and keep production cost low, not for all out performance. If I were you I would still go the K&N regardless. As for damaging the sensors through increased air flow - I don't buy that as a) you are not talking forced induction (turbo or s/charger) so increase in flow is not considerable and B) it is assuming that the sensor is operating at the limits of its manufacturing tolerances - which Toyota wouldn't do. Just remember to reset the ECU afterwards to allow the car to adjust to the new airflow.

I'm good to go now...M_M are we using your address for delivery? if so can you please PM me... Thanks M_M - I have placed my order - marked shared delivery ( LiftToy2, blue_stivo, daz, M_M) to M_M (thanks for organising the delivery!) Get your orders in folks so we can all be dazzled by the flashing lights!

In the meantime I am just going to have to use the shove in the back as the indicator that I hit LIFT and the car that was beside me appearing in the rear vision mirror as my shift point indicator...

The red LEDs I used may have been too bright - at night it is distractiing, I had to play around at first to get rid of the circles, but once you get the angle of the LED right then sweet. I'll PM KT_haha "master of the LED conversion" for some tips on the film flip operation to make sure I don't plunge the display into darkness

Red LED Console Great ride - I love the inverted LCD treatment on the console - was this easy to do? I have done the red LED conversion and it just looks too bright. Inverting it like yours looks much better...

I'm in as well - Blue/Red Flat please...great find - also great to support a local company

Yeah 03 Camry has window control after ignition off - corolla hasn't and it is a pain. Could be Mr T's way of making want to buy Camrys :P LOL. Has anyone noticed that after you do an ECU reset that the auto up feature of the windows doesn't work for a day or so, then the drivers window works, then the passangers. Had 2 stivos same thing happened in both? Could it be the car is learning from us LOL!

My old Stivo used to sing happily to 8200 before the rev limiter came to the rescue, when I picked up my new stivo (last one stolen - see other thread!) I got a rude shock as the limiter kicked in at around 7800-7900! I was not a happy camper as the extra few revs makes a big difference in the shift to the next gear. I rung its little neck a little - put some petrol in and the rev limit increased? to just after 8000? Did an ECU reset and put in a full tank of 98 octane go juice and wham up to 8200! It could be that my prayers and dedications to the gods of LIFT have been answered or is it an ecu setting somehow linked to octane rating of the fuel or fuel quality (I sure it wasn't full of the good stuff when I got it). This would make sense if you are running a lower octane and higher revs that to avoid detonation (pinging) there was a restriction on the rev limit. Could this be the case?