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Hi Lance, I may have been a bit premature, with my answer. I haven't studied CANBUS, but from early theoretical discussions it is a power bus running around the car, with a set of comms wires to controllers, that tap into the power bus. An ECU tells the controller to turn on or off the item. It is also a communications system between various ECUs in the car. In bed last night I remembered seeing ads for CANBUS LEDs, and was wondering if the control chip is imbedded in the LED structure, so no external controlled wire is accessible. Then I wondered if the headlight bulb included the controller, in which case my idea wouldn't work, no power lead to connect to. Try getting to the bulb connector and seeing if there is full power when they are turned on. The number of wires would also be a clue, two for normal wiring and 3 or 4 for CANBUS. Also consider that a headlight bulb would draw something like 5 to 10 amps, depending on its power rating, so anything powering it would need to be pretty hefty, anyway. Searching for CANBUS headlights it seems that only LEDs are CANBUS. Try searching for the workshop manual, for your car and the schematics may provide enlightenment. Herb More thoughts, after re-reading your post. The vehicle is still negative earth, the CANBUS is a two wire serial comms protocol. Loads are still required to have a power source, 12V, and a ground. The CANBUS provides an instruction to turn on or off. I doubt that the ECU would directly provide power for the headlights, and if it does it should be able to handle a low current relay, as well. Maybe using a transistor, like a BD 139, to turn the relay on, would prevent any extra load on the ECU. A revised circuit is attached. The diode is to prevent a voltage spike, when the relay is turned off. Parts are available from JAYCAR, including the relay. Herb

Hi Lance, I would use hard wiring, connecting to the high beam wire at the light The attached circuit shows how I would wire it. The hi beam controls one side of the relay, so when you dip, the relay releases and the spot goes off. The other end of the relay is connected to ground through the dash switch, which then controls whether the spot comes on at all. One of the relay contacts goes directly to the battery, via a fuse, near the battery. The other contact goes to the spot. The spot is grounded normally. No CANBUS involved. Herb

Hi, The new, to me, classic Hi Ace camper, I recently bought, was using a lot of coolant. I couldn't see any leaks or smell at the exhaust. Not wanting to get into an engine tear down I purchased a bottle of Bars Leaks. Went to use it and the instructions said to drain and refill the cooling system. Bugger that is a very difficult thing to do, on this vehicle, so shelved the idea for another day. That night I had a brain wave, as to why I was losing coolant, with no visible signs, maybe the radiator cap was letting it boil off. Checked the next day and the cap rubbers were as stiff as. Went to my local auto shop, bought a new cap and, voila, no more loss. I'm a happy camper, now. Herb

To me the symptoms are like a cracked head. You say that the machine shop did all the testing. Did this include crack testing the head? What about a cracked bore? Herb

Maybe there isn't one. The AC may be turned on by the dash switch, directly. Herb

I don't know about your cars, but there are relays with built in fuses. Herb

Hi Karen, What came to my mind is that the brake pads are a bit loose in the calipers. Herb

Checking out my, new to me, 1995 Hi Ace with the intention of doing a full tune up, I lifted the engine cover and looked for the spark plugs. To my horror it appears that, to replace them, I will need to remove the driver's seat and the panel it sits on, to be able to access them. Is this so? Herb

Hi again, Joel. Apart from being told that you should replace the rotors, what is wrong with them? do you have brake shudder, or are the rotors too thin, i.e. beyond their wear limit? If there are no symptoms of rotor problems I would clean the old ones and reuse them. Maybe new brake pads. As the hubs have come off you have disturbed the bearings, so clean them thoroughly, pack them with a bearing grease and reinstall them. Herb

Hi Joel, From the repair manual 1989 to 2004, here is an extract about the front rotors. Herb

Actually, a locksmith might be better. Chose one that does car keys. Herb

Whilst walking the dogs, I came across this... Herb

The battery light flashing is often a symptom of a failed diode, in the rectifier pack, or brushes, in the alternator. Replacement rectifier packs and brushes should be readily available. Herb

Hi again, Peter, some random ramblings. I'm with Robert, don't worry too much about regular time services, have it done about every 5,000km. You do, on average, about 6,000 km a year, so a 5,000km service would be about every 11 months. The timing is not critical, I aim for 5,000kms but usually go over a few hundred. I've done my own servicing for nearly 60 years and have engines and cars run into the 100s , of thousand kms, and never had any issues. At the rate you travel, it will take another 10 years to hit 100,000 kms, and then a Toyota engine is just truly run in. Herb

Hi Peter, As you are out of warrantee, you no longer need to go to a dealer, try a local mechanic. Personally I've never been happy with dealer servicing, one nearly cost my daughter a new engine, they must have tightened the oil filter with a pipe wrench as it had a dint that cracked and sprayed oil everywhere. I don't know about Toyota, but other manufacturers (VW) make items that only they supply, at a ridiculous cost. No after market items available, so that may impact costs. I've always done my own servicing, oil and filter change, mainly, and others when needed. Herb

Hi Tony, This mob, in Japan, may have them. Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama Also check out your local Clark Rubber store. They have many pinch weld style seals, and may suit. Herb

Hi All First I know nothing about the Hi Ace cruise control, but do know about cruise control, in general. I doubt very much that there is a cruise control system installed. What you probably have is just the wiring, so that a common wiring harness could be used, in manufacturing. I have installed after market cruise into old classic cars, and the system consists of an electronic control box, an actuator and switches to operate it. I found that the location of switches didn't suit me, so I fitted a 4 channel remote control system, with a key fob, mounted on the steering wheel, and the relay outputs replaced the switches. Herb

Yes, basically that is correct, however, I meant to put the additives in now, not at the next change. Herb

Hi, Not being able to read the dipstick can be quite normal, with a fresh lot of oil. I find that looking on the back of the stick often shows a trace of oil, that can be referenced to the markings. Oil thickness, 5W - 30 sounds a bit light to me, particularly for a well used engine. I would go for 15W - 40 or even 20W - 50. Leave it for now, but check your level often. Maybe consider adding some stuff to reduce oil burning, google this "reduce engine oil consumption" for inspiration. Herb

Thanks for replying, Joe. I think my driving style may be the problem, I tend to drive it like a sports car, rev the engine out before shifting, double D the clutch on downshifts, and other fancy stuff. I must remember that it is not my MGB. Herb

Hi, Check out Jaycar's speakers, maybe one will fit https://www.jaycar.com.au/search?text=speaker&CSRFToken=55def12b-0ee0-4d9c-9b4d-8a4a8e3e4893 Or visit your local Autobarn or Supercheap. Herb

Hu All, Just filled my new to me Hi Ace Camper and it took 55 litres, of petrol, for about 307 km. Seems a tad high to me, but then... This may be normal, so any comments, please. Herb

Hi, Try disconnecting the battery for 5 or so minutes. Herb

Herb

Hi, The way to test valve seals is to find a respectable hill, start driving down it at a fair speed and then take your foot off the accelerator. If there is bluish smoke it indicates valve seals. I don't know about additives, but one can only try. Continuing to drive won't damage anything, but your spark plugs may foul up with carbon. Just keep an eye on your oil level. Herb