campbeam

Hope the attached document is of some assistance. It is only a selected sample of the results. You have replaced four mounts for engine and presumably the transmission. Suggest open the bonnet, rev the motor and watch for any engine movement. There should be none or very little movement. Also listen or look for any vacum leaks that may be causing the engine to miss or vibrate when under accelerating. Next, you mentioned that you have replaced CV joints. Is that both outer and inner CV joints on both drive shafts? I would be [under the car] checking the drive shafts to confirm there is no play. No harm in using injector cleaner as mentioned in the Google search. Not sure how you can check the torque converter; maybe go to an auto transmission specialist. Google Search Results vibration under acceleration toyota.doc

The following URL with photos should be of assistance http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-5th-gen-2007-2012/775586-es350-u660e-transmission-filter-replacement.html It is what I referred to before changing the transmission filter in my 2006 Aurion. You will definitely need to loosen the transmission mount which is accessible from the passenger side. Note either remove or turn the front passenger wheel for enough access. You will then need to raise the transmission; I used a hydraulic trolley jack with a piece of wood or an old book to make the contact with the transmission. The more clearance you can get the better. I ended up using a thin small 10mm ring spanner to loosen that one bolt. So be prepared for a quite frustrating time. The attached pdf shows the O-Ring for the filter and the position of the 2 magnets in the pan. After removing the pan and the filter, I used de-greaser to clean the pan and magnets and also the valve body assembly. Toyota U660E ES350AT3&4shiftflare-1.pdf U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc

Previously read your post and been thinking about it. I would certainly like to know the solution. Looks like you have had the usual causes already investigated and eliminated. Just read this article so maybe the rotors and/or brake pads should be inspected. http://automotivethinker.com/brakes-2/rotors-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-and-warping/

Related thread titled "White smoke on start up" started 9th June 2011. Have a look at the post dated 26 August 2012 from "Leadingshield" which is what I have actioned.

Similar experience with my 2006 Aurion ATX with 165,000KM. Apparently, the 2GR-FE engines are prone to engine sludge especially if poor quality engine oils have been used or not serviced properly. After a few Google searches, I found a post that explained that engine sludge was blocking oil channels and preventing the oil from draining properly from the valve covers, The PCV valve is then sucking the oil into the intake and this explains why there is exhaust smoke when you first start the engine. Later on a trip to Wagga Wagga, I noticed a significant blue smoke screen when accelerating hard on the highway. Engine oil level was full in the morning and mid afternoon after travelling 600km the oil level was below the low level. One quick solution is to either replace or remove the 2 valve covers and soak them in degreaser to remove the accumulated oil sludge in the oil channels. The PCV valve also needs to be cleaned so it can operate freely. Before dismantling the engine, I have desludged the engine a few times. During the return trip from Wagga Wagga to Brisbane, I added about 500ml of diesel before leaving and again after 600km. The new engine oil was totally black and the new oil filter cartridge was clogged with small black soot like particles. I replaced the engine oil and filter cartridge plus 500ml of diesel and checked after 500km. Again the oil filter cartridge was blocked with particles and the engine oil replaced. After further Google searches, I found a posting suggesting using 500ml of auto transmission fluid for oil sludge removal as an alternative to diesel because it contains cleaning additives. I did this and after recently returning from another trip to Wagga Wagga [2600 KM], I have just replaced the oil filter cartridge and topped up the engine loi level with more ATF. Inside the valve cover and side of the valve train is totally clean with no evidence of oil sludge. The excessive exhaust smoke is now totally gone. More Google searches suggested using a synthetic oil to reduce and minimise oil sludge. Also according to an ex Toyota Dealership worker, the 2GR-FE engines, if properly maintained, should last about 400,000 km before requiring any rebuild work. So maybe the dealer should consider adding a commercial engine flush product and have you drive around for 125km before returning the vehicle for another oil and filter change. This should reveal whether it is an oil sludge issue or the valve seals do need to be replaced.

Joined to get involved in the Forums. Been DIY since 1975 starting with Honda Civic. Bought new 1998 Camry CSX which has been totally reliable. Upgraded suspension with Boge struts and King Springs plus Ultra Racing front strut bar. Struts and springs were bought from Fulcrum Suspension. Camry now in the shed waiting for my boys to get their license in 2017. Currently driving 2006 Aurion ATX (165,000KM) which was bought from a wholesaler via eBay in 2015. Got it for a good price because it has exhaust smoke on start up. After leaving a smoke screen when accelerating hard on the open highway and using about a litre of oil in 1 day, I learnt via Google search that it was oil sludge in the tappet covers affecting oil drainage so oil was being sucked into the intake via the crankcase ventilation valve (which was also blocked and needed to be cleaned). After engine flushes using 500ml of diesel and recently 500ml of transmission fluid in the engine oil, about 3 oil changes, and about 5 oil cartridge changes in about 3000km, the cylinder head is now looking totally clean. Just bought fog lamps from wreckers at Rocklea (Gumtree ad) but will have to go back for the relay and the control arm stalk to get them working instead of just cosmetic. Planning upon replacing the struts with Sachs brand which come with a lifetime warranty. Already have Pedders heavy duty front springs bought via eBay so will have to get the Pedders rear springs. regards, Ashley