campbeam

Just checked the girlfriend's Yaris and there is air blowing out of the oil filler cap.

There is not too much airflow unlike my previous Honda Prelude which showered me in oil when I was trying to top it up. Lesson learnt. Now I don't do any oil top up with the engine running.

I thought that I would do a follow up after an experience this afternoon. I got a bit impatient waiting for a break in traffic while stopped at a T intersection. I had previously let an opportunity pass thinking that I would get a better opportunity soon. When an opportunity did finally come, I accelerated a bit harder than usual. Accelerator was probably at mid point and most certainly not to the floor. Anyway I got a bit of axle tramp.

Last time that happened was well before this upgrade and I did have the accelerator flat to the floor and had to back off to get traction. 

Certainly thinking that there is more torque in the lower rev band which I do prefer. Possibly related or at least contributing, I have noticed that the transmission moves up into higher gears a bit quicker and stays in high gear longer.

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I was planning to use a 1/4" drive 10mm socket with a uni-joint adapter, then I remembered my snap-on 10mm socket combo spanner. It worked straight off the bat and I didn't bother testing the 1/4" socket.

I just knew from my experience 5 years ago that a 10mm socket with a uni-joint adapter would not have worked because not enough clearance. Anyway, I have just tested it [very quickly] with the car up on ramps and no go.

However a shallow 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive wobble extension bar does work to loosen that pesky bolt.

I was going to replace it with a M6 hex head bolt but decided to leave it as is.

4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

The cars that raced around were practically road going cars with some modifications to enable them to go the distance of a brutal 1000 kay race. The 60's and 70's cars were practically stock to some degree but as the 80's rolled on the mods that were allowed made the sport very interesting.

Those were the days with the rise of the touring car on the track and muscle cars on the public roads. Potentially anyone could take a stock car and with enough money for modifications turn it into a race ready car. Remember that garage mechanic named ***** Johnson leading the Big Race, the rock, the public support then back next year to win. 

If you want to take a trip down memory lane and see how much things have changed have a look at this video. Certainly a bygone era. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOQd1vT794s 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

We are the privileged few who still have a full sized spare these days as we're heading into this era of so called "space saver" tyres. The notion that it is called a space saver is ridiculous because it isn't really about saving space is it ? It's cheaper to give you a clown wheel and it also compensates for the increase in weight the cars get from the overload of techy gadgets. I like having a proper, full sized spare wheel. The only downside of having the full sized spare, that is fair to say, is that some may not be able to handle the weight while trying to lift it out of the boot. That's probably the only con.

It is a right not a privilege and I want it now and forever. Our good mate John is not holding back when he calls space saver tyres a fraud. You need a full size spare if you do any highway driving. I also check the tyre pressure of the spare tyre before I go on a road trip. Better to be prepared rather than sorry with a spare with only 20 psi that you have not checked for years.

If you cannot handle the weight, then pay to have roadside assistance. If you are lucky, someone may stop to assist.

https://autoexpert.com.au/posts/top-six-things-new-car-buyers-dont-check-but-should

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPa3UhulSBQ

9 minutes ago, Squalled said:

Really missed out on how pure Group C and Group A were in their day. The cars are honestly show pieces to me these days.

Your comment reminded me of the adage : Race on Sunday, Sell on Monday

Gone are the days when manufacturers had to make 500 vehicles with homologated engines available to the public to qualify for use in Bathurst. 

Peter Williamson certainly waved the flag for Toyota. Still remember how competitive his celica was across skyline only being overpowered in conrod straight by the big V8s. 

Taking the axe to the boot so they could refuel is a classic memory plus dash cam and his commentary while driving during the race.

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Supercheap have ended their partnership after this year and wondering who gets it after them I wonder..

Appreciate the pics. A bygone era with all that working space in the engine bays.

Repco have got the naming rights back for 2021. Always will be the Bathurst 1000 whoever the main sponsor is.

Maybe SuperCheap can put that saved sponsorship money back into some great deals to help pry open my wallet in 2021.

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

The tyre placard in the drivers door jamb says 240 kpa both front and rear. 34.8 psi. Shop reckons 36 psi, others are saying 38 psi. Who do you go with ??

As I mentioned before, go read your owner's manual. You will find a number of recommended tyre pressures for different driving conditions. Suggest you select a higher tyre pressure that suits your driving conditions.

Attached document indicates that we need more negative camber to offset the wear on the outer edge of the tyre.

Toyota Aurion Wheel Alignment Data Specifications.docx

12 hours ago, serendipity said:

Cheers. I pulled it out and it does what you say so seems to be OK. I cleaned it with some throttle body cleaner.

Still curious if others have noticed pressure blown out of oil filler when cap removed at idle. 

I will check the girlfriend's Yaris tomorrow and give a definite answer.

Suggest that you have a read of the following link that may give you some hints of what to check.

https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/62340/stalls+after+engine+heats+to+operating+temp

I have recently replaced the spark plugs. Previously, I have replaced the MAF sensor and an ignition coil. The crankshaft position sensor also got replaced after a check engine light had come on. Removed and cleaned the existing sensor and the CEL went out. Still ended up replacing the sensor.

Attached is a Whiteline camber bolt fitting guide. Following diagram shows the placement.

I have also added 17mm front camber bolts to my eBay WatchList.  Already have the 15mm camber bolts to fit the Aurion rear.

Camber Bolts Fitting Guide.pdf

19 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I definitely didn't want to go down that route. That little tool saved me a lot of grief and time that's for sure.

5 years ago that was the known way. I had a very frustrating hour trying to remove that bolt. Ended up using a small ring spanner from a Trade Tools combination set. This took me most of a Saturday afternoon.

Fast forward and I did the transmission service within an hour just by being able to remove that bolt with an open ended spanner held vertically.

No wonder that others have replaced that pan bolt with a hex head bolt. Just found the bolts that I bought so maybe next time when I have the car up on the ramps

16 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Thanks for putting my mind to rest Ash. So 36-38 would be the sweet spot. 

I haven't got a decent air compressor at this point and regular pressure checks are difficult unless I drive to a local garage, if I remember...

My compressor is back home at my folk's place and have no intention of moving it from there because I use it there for other things, so I have to purchase another one for my garage here at some point. That will make it a lot easier for me having a decent tyre inflator.

I have one of those little portable 12v dragon tyre inflator (with digital readout) but it's a little painful to use and slow. I just keep it in the Aurion's boot in case my wife has a small emergency, she can pull up anywhere and put air in the tyre. For a full inflation it takes too long.

I wonder if the alignment can be made so that it can add some more negative camber above and over what the spec calls for so that it can even out with time.

Not an easy thing this suspension geometry..

I have found that 36-38 psi is ideal for my Aurion. Certainly helps to make the tyre sidewalls a bit firmer so improves steering responsiveness. I just use the local garages and 40 psi on their gauge or maybe 41 psi. When I do remember [and then not forget] tyre pressures are usually down to 37-38 psi. Recently I bought a tyre pressure gauge and did check the tyre pressures at home.

You were previously in a thread about the wheel alignment specifications. You must not have had the time to read/scan all of the posts. Camber adjustment bolts may be enough otherwise there is a kit to replace a bushing in the lower control arm.

16 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

It was pure luck I had this tool and it fit to be honest. I hadn't been under there previously to investigate that pesky bolt and it wasn't until I had it up and took a good look at it I tried the conventional way with an open ended spanner and quickly realised what you were all on about. Then I remembered my little snap-on tool and had a Eureka moment. What a fluke it fit. I was relieved.

I needed the clearance to be able to work under there reasonably comfortable so I had to raise it from all four corners and then I used a scissor jack at the right rear to act as my 'pivot' to get it laterally level whilst getting the longitudinal level sorted. It was frustrating but I eventually found the sweet spot.

Investigating that pesky bolt was part of the preparation. Very fortunate that you had that particular tool. Using the open ended spanner vertically takes more time and a few attempts but still worth it compared to loosening transmission mount bolts and jacking up the transmission for working room.

First time around you would have wanted the extra clearance to be more under the vehicle and see what you are doing which is very understandable. I am sure that you will find a quicker way of doing it next time.

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Would I be paranoid thinking him wanting 36 psi so the tyres can wear out faster ?? Is 38 psi the magic number I wonder..

The inside edges have bugger all wear. It's just the outers more so. The left rear is also as bad the front left. Only the left side it seems.

Incorrect paranoid thinking. If you want faster tyre wear, try lower tyre pressures. I have always used 36 psi for at least 20 years. Been doing that for the last 5 years with my Aurion. I have also increased the tyre pressures up to 38 psi then 40 psi. At the same time I have been checking and there is no noticeable tyre wear in the centre due to over-inflation. Suggest that you look at your owners manual for the recommended tyre pressures for highway speed with 4 occupants. As for the 40 psi, it is more laziness on my part because I only check tyre pressures monthly.

Same as yourself, inner edges have little wear but the outer is wearing more. Certainly interested in getting this sorted out before fitting the next set of tyres.

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Haha yeah. I am fussy. I like to be organised and work as cleanly as possible. Have the plan set in place and everything else just flows nicely then. Getting the car level took quite some time and it was probably the most frustrating part actually. I didn't show it in my pics but I also got it level laterally, not only longitudinally just to be precise. This would mimic the car being on a workshop hoist. 

I had a good feeling about the condition of the transmission because I've never had any shift issues at all. It's always behaved perfectly to be honest so there was no trepidation about any muck build up. I was probably expecting the colour of the fluid to have been more brown given the kays, but was pleasantly surprised to see the WS was still in good shape after all this time. Like I mentioned before, It has a lot to do with how you drive it too. It's had an easy life and the old fluid was the proof. I'm very happy it's done now and I can move on to other aspects of maintenance. 

It is all in the preparation then everything should flow smoothly. Certainly helps to have the right tool to deal with that 1 pan bolt.

When I am doing the fluid level check, it is on a fairly level driveway. If the car is jacked up with the passenger wheel removed, I then lower the vehicle until it is fairly level laterally. Essentially the same as if the vehicle was sitting on all 4 wheels.

Interesting point because the vehicle is not level longitudinally [on the ground] as it would be on a workshop hoist. Possibly another explanation for adding that extra 200ml after doing the fluid level adjustment.

I am finally very happy with how well my transmission is performing so like yourself moving my focus to other maintenance.

24 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Mine says 280 for treadwear. What does that even mean ?

It means that you need to have another look at the video. It is a comparative figure.

My front Dunlop tyres have 240 for treadwear and rear Pirelli tyres have 420 for treadwear.

420= 1.75 times 240. Therefore, the Pirelli tyre should last 75% longer than the Dunlop in the same controlled conditions. Then, we have real world conditions with so many variable of road surface, temperature, speed etc.

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I ended up with Michelin Pilot Preceda tyres instead and they are a fantastic tyre too.

Unfortunately, most tyre manufacturer’s websites do not include the treadwear rating for their different tyres plus other specification e.g. depth of tread etc.

Can’t have facts getting in the way of marketing’s subjective statements especially when comparing tyres. Guess you have to ask specific questions to get specific answers.

18 minutes ago, KAA said:

OK a few phone calls later to most of the reputable tyre shops around here and nothing in the Michelin Primacy or Pilot Sport range are on 4 for 3 or money back offers..I am sure being the wise man you are Tony you will get a good set for a good price

KAA

I also checked the Michelin website for their Latest Promotion which was $100 cashback in June/July.

You may be interested to read this review article

https://www.carlist.my/news/review-michelin-primacy-4--trying-to-make-sense-of-an-unbelievable-claim-65767/65767/

You may like this YouTube video.

I do not have a definite answer but my guess is that is most likely acting as a radio antenna. 

19 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Make sure when you buy your tyres, insist they tell you the date of manufacture so you don't end up a wood duck.

Following YouTube video shows how to determine the manufacture date from a 4 digit code on the tyre's sidewall. 

I am regularly searching touring/highway tyres. Manufacturers are releasing updated versions or new models.

Please note that the Michelin Pilot Sport being a sports performance tyre is only available in larger diameter, lower profile sizes. 

However, I do have the latest generation of Michelin Primacy 4 on a shortlist because of its advertised wet braking performance and available in 216/60/16 size. 

Totally agree with what you are saying. For a sealed transmission, you really need to do your research and know the fluid check procedure before touching the transmission. 

Since recently noticing the maintenance schedule [for the 40 Series Aurions] includes replacing the ATF at 90K kms or 6 years under severe driving conditions then ATF "lifetime" under the Toyota WS specification could be estimated to be 180K or 12 years. I previously assumed a lifetime estimate of 10 years and 160K.

As for your Dad's car with only 60K, I would expect less sediment build up on the transmission pan. As for the ATF, I would be more considering it when it is 5-6 years old and more so for preventative maintenance purposes. 

I had another read of the original post and the pictures.

Also had another laugh. I know that you are too OCD to have forgotten that extra 200 ml. If you had, I would have been very surprised.

Lots of preparation involved so the job would have gone quite smoothly.

Big benefit of dropping the pan is to clean off that accumulated sediment. Extra effort means that the new ATF will be less likely to get dirty/contaminated. 

I reckon that you will be giving your Dad's Aurion a transmission service in the near future.

4 hours ago, donnot said:

Only complaint now is that the steering rack is too slow, but can't do anything about that :(.

I have noticed that when I have the front tyre pressures at 40 psi, the steering is very responsive. 

17 minutes ago, AurionX2 said:

Good stuff there, precise, right tools, well documented, congratulations. One thing: if I remember correctly the 200ml fluid top-up is done after finishing the fluid level check, during the flush is irrelevant because you'll follow up with the level check anyway. I wonder if their engineers have initially miscalculated the amount of fluid that should be used and corrected it later.

Yes, final step is to add the 200 ml after the fluid level check then refit the fill plug. I think that the top up can be an allowance/preventative measure if too much fluid has been drained while performing the fluid level check. Certainly avoids customers returning complaining about transmission / gear shift issues when ATF is cold caused by fluid level being a bit low.

4 minutes ago, VeradaMan said:

I’ll describe the problem to the dealer just like I have here and hopefully they’ll be able to fix it. 

I am expecting that the Dealer will look at any Service Bulletins and most likely update the transmission control software. If that does not solve the issue, next step is to consider whether a replacement of the valve body is required. Just as well the vehicle is under warranty.