campbeam

Just noticed that REPCO have 20% off Penrite ATF LV 4 Litres for $39.

Big question over the hybrid models is the lifespan and replacement cost of the battery pack. Best to confirm with Toyota Australia about the warranty for the battery pack.

The other unanswered question is how long do you intend to keep the vehicle. Both of these factors are going to influence the total cost of ownership. Ideally you want the greater price difference difference between the petrol and hybrid models.

Personally, I am very conservative and keep my vehicles long term i.e. 10+years so would be more inclined towards the petrol model with its proven automatic transmission.

37 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

A decent mechanic could do the whole job in around an hour. Then you'll have to get the front end re aligned.

Many years ago, I was at a local Fulcrum Suspensions store to pick up some struts. With the proper workshop equipment, I noticed that their mechanic was able to compress the springs in a matter of minutes.Most of the time will be in removing the strut assembly then refitting.

When you are DIY using spring compressors, you spend a lot more time disassembling the strut assembly then re-compressing the spring for re-assembly.

@matt36415

He posted a photo on 30th August in his thread. 

4 hours ago, donnot said:

Very tempted...I guess it would save me from needing a second wheel alignment down the track if I had to do the rears separately. But looks like a bit of a PITA to install. 

This YouTube video makes the replacement of the rear struts look very straight forward when complete replacement struts are available. Unfortunately, we will have to disassemble the strut assembly and then reassemble. 

4 hours ago, donnot said:

Update: back to 98 and have disconnected the battery (installing front + rear dash-cam and sub) and I can barely notice any flaring - maybe still between 3-4 but only if I'm really looking for it and on reasonably light throttle 😀.

Was looking at the Sachs suspension and wondering if it's worth just replacing the front struts at around $140 per side? Since the front has all the weight (occupants, motor etc) in it, I'd assume they'd be a lot more worn than the rears (car has barely ever had any rear passengers). Also saves a lot of money and it's much easier to install the fronts myself.

EDIT: As an aside, does anyone know any places I'd be able to find KYB/Sachs suspension in Perth (that serve the public)?

 

There should not be any flaring. Best to make the effort and have the Toyota dealer check the fluid level, at least. 

It is usually the front passenger strut that gets the most wear and damage. Your choice as to just replace the front struts. 

I sourced my front Sachs struts from this eBay seller in June 2020 and had quick delivery and no issues. I also contacted the seller and got combined postage.  

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SACHS-RIGHT-FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBER-314674/223336102233?hash=item33ffde7959:g:20IAAOSwd0BfKR7V 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SACHS-LEFT-FRONT-SHOCK-ABSORBER-314673/223336102099?hash=item33ffde78d3:g:fdAAAOSwLbNfKR7T&frcectupt=true 

On 5/10/2020 at 10:30 AM, campbeam said:

I am sure that I mentioned this LED pen worklight in another post. It certainly came in handy when changing a headlight bulb. The magnet on the clip can also be handy so you have light and both hands free to work. 

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search?q=led+light&lang=en_AU

 

This LED pen worklight is on special as a 7 day deal for $3.99 [save$3] Batteries are included. Use these all the time when working on the car and have 1 in the car all of the time for map reading etc.

5 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

It's great value at $59. The SCA ToolPRO one I purchased a little while ago was the same money but it's rated at 1600kg. I don't think there's much difference to be honest. Still excellent value nonetheless Ash. Did you also get a ToolPRO one too ?

Bit of a difference with a slightly lower maximum height. I noticed the metal side carry handle.

Certainly did get a TOOLPRO one when they were last on special. 

MechPro Blue comes with a 1 year warranty. I think that TOOLPRO comes with a lifetime warranty.

Bunnings has a 1600kg low profile jack for $65. There is price and there is quality. 

Previously noticed this 1700kg low profile trolley jack in the latest Repco catalogue for introductory price of $59. 

Regular price is $99 or $99.99

Ended up getting one but have yet to unpack and try it out. 

https://www.repco.com.au/en/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipment/jacks/mechpro-blue-1700kg-trolley-jack-mbtj1700/p/A5498035

8 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Yep it's loose ! Will have to check one day when we start to defrost down here 😐

I can remember Hyundais Excel dropping front wheels due to poor suspension tower/body welds, needless to say there was a safety recall out for those. Toyota is far more advanced in design & engineering, they have little to fear from the HMC in the short term.

The glass may be loose in the holding channel because the holding rubber needs to be reseated. Nothing like a bit of silicone spray to help the reassembly process.

If you end up needing some thin rubber, I would consider using a bicycle tube as a quick fix.

1 hour ago, Bigmike62 said:

Thanks campbeam...

Yes had the transmission serviced 4 months ago..

Im thinking of perhaps the MAFS sensor needs a clean ? 

Some members have mentioned that as a thing to do for better power and consumption. Still haven't been able to improve on 440 kilometres a half tank.. next trip I'll be taking a different route to Rockhampton, less hilly and twisty... will get a wheel alignment and rotate balance done before the trip also..

Cheers buddy..😀

Also check the throttle body and air filter and give them a clean.  More about self control with gentle acceleration and planning ahead to reduce the amount of braking for better fuel economy.

1 hour ago, A Indian Has a Sportivo said:

Thanks guys will look into it. I've bought the about a month ago from a dealership from hills motor group dont know if you may saw it on gumtree or Facebook its the that was priced for i think 9grand perhaps. Since then I haven't serviced the car as it hadn't reached the 180k mark but the oil is fine

Do you have a full service history for the vehicle? If not, I would assume the worst in that servicing is overdue. I do not know on what basis you are saying that the oil is fine. Bit hard to tell just by looking at the dipstick.

As well as the checks recommended by Squalled, can I suggest that you make sure that the correct oil viscosity is used when the car is serviced.  

Great discipline and result for the 1st quarter of tank. Overtaking and possible lead foot affect shows for the half tank. Better to overtake quickly and safely than spend too much time facing oncoming traffic.

Appreciate the picture of your instrument panel. My temperature gauge sits in the same position and 2000rpm for 110kph confirms transmission is in 6th gear. You may have noticed 1800rpm for 100kph. 

If you want to improve your fuel economy, consider a change of the automatic transmission fluid if that has not been recently done.

Let us know how you go for your next big trip. 

Easy way to check for loose glass would be to have the window half open then try to jiggle it a bit.

Certainly have to agree that Hyundai/Kia have come a long way since their earlier years when there were a lot of quality issues and warranty claims.

However, Toyota has the edge in my opinion because they continue to embrace TQM [Total Quality Management].

I learnt the hard lessons many years ago to appreciate a quality reliable vehicle.

In the meantime, I have got 2 Aurions to wear out before me and my driver's license gets to the non-renewal stage.

I recently noticed this used cat back system on eBay with the description:

"2-1/2 into 2-1/4 cat back system; 304 ss pipe and 409 ss mufflers; All custom made; Car has been sold without " 

I particularly noted that the last catalytic converter has been retained. More posted for information purposes for those possibly considering changing their exhaust system.

Personally, I rather like the stock standard exhaust system and have just upgraded the last catalytic converter to a 2.5" high flow 200 cpsi one.

If I was prepared to have the exhaust system modified and potentially louder, I would have considered a 3" higher flow cat with 100 cpsi. Most likely option would be move the joint between the resonator and front Y pipe forward then weld the cat to the existing OEM resonator.  This should then increase the exhaust flow.

For cross reference purposes, there is a photo on this thread showing how the front Y pipe has been changed differently. Looks like the flex joint has also been changed to a longer length one.

Your best option is to go to auto wreckers. 

13 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Why ? In what way ?

Similar to ZZT86 I also wondered why you wanted to modify a 2018 Camry which presumably is the latest generation and still under warranty. Maybe it is more future intentions.

Next question is what modifications are you considering?

In these uncertain times, it makes more financial sense to focus upon owning your vehicle outright. 

I would recommend buying the best quality tyres for your vehicle that suit your driving style. My personal preference is for touring style tyres with excellent wet braking performance.

2 hours ago, LordBug said:

Just curious, why'd you opt for the 2.5" over the 3" in the end?

More the recommendation of the exhaust shop owner after measuring up the exhaust pipe on either side of the existing catalytic converter.  2.5" ended up being a neater fit.

26 minutes ago, Metal_Head said:

I didn't notice that. Considering 3" is ideal for this engine, the 2.5" cat will be a bottleneck for any future exhaust mods. I'd say exhaust bloke didn't want the awkward job of merging 3" with the factory pipe

 Both the 2.5" and 3" catalytic converter had the same size main body diameter i.e. 4". If there had been a notable difference then I would have been more insistent upon having the 3" version fitted. 

For insurance purposes, my rationale is that I have not modified the exhaust, I have upgraded an existing component. It is very much the same as replacing the existing mufflers with high flow versions. 

The main bottlenecks are the header catalytic converters and then the merge pipe of the front Y pipe. My thinking is that by increasing the exhaust flow of the last catalytic converter, this should be a viable alternative to modifying the front Y pipe and not impact the driveability of the vehicle. 

Certainly enjoying the differences and I have particularly noticed that the Aurion now coasts downhill faster.

6 hours ago, Metal_Head said:

purely the sound encouraged me to do it.

I am thinking that the engine at idle has a deeper throatier sound to it.

What I am am noticing is that the engine seems to be more free revving. Appeared to be effortless to get up to the 80kph speed from a standing start. Before I was more watching the tachometer trying to keep the revs in the 2000 range for fuel economy. Now I am more watching the speedometer to ensure that I keep within the speed limit. 

1 hour ago, TommyM said:

How are you lot holding up ?

Being in Brisbane, I am doing ok, social distancing and staying away from any suspected hot spots. 

Got more time on my hands so doing ongoing preparation of my vehicle ready for a road trip just in case the QLD NSW border opens sooner than expected before Xmas. As per usual, I am planning on staying off the roads over the Xmas New Year period.   

Bar Keepers Friend is available at Coles and Woolworths.

Got some today for $8 at my local Woolworths. Finally found it on a bottom shelf.  

Definitely looking at decontaminating the glass before applying a ceramic coating onto the windscreen. Most likely, I will do the rear windscreen first before tackling the front windscreen.

I did proceed and got a 2 1/2" high flow 200cpsi stainless steel catalytic converter fitted.

Check of the OEM catalytic converter showed that it was not blocked or damaged and still in good condition after 14 years. Therefore, it was not critically essential to replace it so could have saved the $240. 

Initial observations are as follows: 

1. the exhaust is still relatively quiet, only very marginally louder.

2. as expected, there is no exhaust drone. 

3. engine idle rpm is occasionally lower

4. as expected, no apparent performance gains

5. as expected, some possible increased torque in lower rpm range.

6. Noticed speed increased from 60kph to 70kph with little change in accelerator or engine rpm. Mental note to be gentle on the accelerator and pay more attention to the speedo. 

I can also see how any expected fuel economy gains will be quickly offset by being too playful with the accelerator. So planning to be responsibly playful and enjoy the change then look for fuel economy later. Good excuse to go for a drive on the highway.

Just noticed Tony's post showing a link for OBDII compliant vehicles in Australia and also previous posts about Toyota WS.

I did some recent internet searches on Toyota WS and this clarified for me that Toyota WS [World Specification] is an ATF specification which is equivalent to the JWS 3324. It is all about a Low Viscosity ATF to meet fuel economy requirements and a long life for sealed transmissions.

No comment about past products but I do recall only 1 internet post that the Toyota WS branded product at dealerships was semi-synthetic [at that time of posting].

Current ATF products with the Toyota WS specification are full synthetic ATF.

Conclusion of my research is that I am going to stay with using Penrite LV ATF in my transmission.

For the JWS 3324 specifications: https://www.toyota-club.net/files/faq/03-03-29_e77-04_eng.htm

For showing change of product description: https://totachi.com/product/atf-ws/

5 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Ahhh Tonys got the toolbox & the oil stash 😉 Lovely jubly.

I too got me a bottle, yep 1 bottle. Which takes my stash to 31L 😐 I best stop buying them & start using instead, problem is I'm in lockdown & so is the car. I've done about 3K kms in the last 5 months.

3K in 5 months; oil change time.

I looked at a previous post in 2017 and still got some left. Easily tempted by a good oil special so I do have an accumulated hoard and a space problem. Certainly got enough to be doing oil changes on 4 vehicles for the next few years.

Going to try and avoid temptation, save the $$$ and wait for a special on Shell Ultra then "flash the plastic". I have not seen a special on Shell Ultra for a long time and maybe not going to happen in 2020 so will be doing oil changes and making room in the meantime.