David the Viking

Best way to get maximum life out of your tyres is

1) buy a good quality pressure gauge as the ones at servos are usually out due to mistreatment and or abuse!

2) Make sure you check the tyre pressure at least every month if not every two weeks. And check them when they are cold as a tyres pressure will increase by about 1-2 psi when hot.

3) Add 3-4 more psi than what is stated on the tyre placard as it shows MINIMUM recommended pressures.

4) Get a tyre rotation and wheel alignment every 10k.

Follow this and you can get good mileage out of your tyres.

By doing this I was able to do 45k on the 19' Dunlops originally fitted my TRD while others had to replace before 20k.

which brand would you recommend if i am to get a pressure gauge?

I have a Kincrome digital gauge that does a calibration each time it turns on around $30 from Autobarn. Better to spend a few extra $$ on a gauge then have to replace a $1000 worth of tyres prematurely! Michelin also make one that is available from Autobarn for similar $$.

I think I'm a special case.

No you're just nuts. ;)

Daryl is especially nuts! Mind you when I was younger I used to go through tyres as if they were going out of fashion!!

I must be doing a bad job with tyre maintenance

my 215/60R16 Dunlop SP Sport 300E on the Aurion hit the thread indicators after 14,000km

Or you had dud tires. Or those mysterious low mileage OEM tires.

I know the gen 6 Camry has an engine that is a bit lighter then the Aurions but my wifes is at around 27k and Im happy with the tyre wear. I am expecting around 60k out of the OE Dunlop 300E tyres. We run 36psi front and 35psi rear and it is never heavily loaded. If we needed to carry a heavy load for any great distance ie: 4+ passengers and luggage interstate I would increase the rear tyre pressures to around 38-40psi.

How many kms had you done between services Daryl?

They can be replaced on the car without the need to remove the steering rack.

Did you actually feel the movement in the ball joint through the rack end boot? The reason I ask is it is not just some free play between the rack & pinion? This can sometimes be adjusted.

BHSS is no longer at Albion, they have moved to Capalaba and are now called BHSS - TBS.

If you have the 1mz v6 the timing belt is due at 150k intervals. The 5s is 100k.

Best way to get maximum life out of your tyres is

1) buy a good quality pressure gauge as the ones at servos are usually out due to mistreatment and or abuse!

2) Make sure you check the tyre pressure at least every month if not every two weeks. And check them when they are cold as a tyres pressure will increase by about 1-2 psi when hot.

3) Add 3-4 more psi than what is stated on the tyre placard as it shows MINIMUM recommended pressures.

4) Get a tyre rotation and wheel alignment every 10k.

Follow this and you can get good mileage out of your tyres.

By doing this I was able to do 45k on the 19' Dunlops originally fitted my TRD while others had to replace before 20k.

I still get it now and then but only after I have done 10,000Km since last service, it has definitely been better with the change of oil brand being used though.

I dont think it is piston slap, more like a timing chain rattle or maybe something in the vvti mechanism.

Sorry guys i think i have confused my self and you guys.

When i had the rims put on the ZR6 i also put the GPS in the car and at an indicated 60kms on the GPS the speedo would read around 65-67 (was a little hard to be exact with the ZR6's speedo as we all know it has ***** poor markings on it) So after that i figured if i drove around with the speedo showing 65 my true speed would actually be something like 58-60kms which is why im that puzzled to of got a fine...

Might put a different GPS unit in the car and see what it comes up with just to be sure?

I have found the TRD to give the same inaccuracy that you have found with 19's on the ZR6. The TRD also using 245/35/19 tyres.

A positive is that you are less likely to get a speeding fine!

Personally, I'm starting to really consider changing it myself. They WS ATF comes in 4 litre tins at about $56 each from their spare parts counter. The procedure is just a little crazy, but it hopefully shouldn't be too bad.

There are two Penrite ATF's that meet the Toyota WS spec to give you more options. The SIN ATF and the ATF MHP.

Shouldn't that be 18RGU engine?

I do know someone who has a Garret T04 turbo running 21psi in a blow through carby (Solex) setup. The 18R block has been bored and stroked to 2.4litres and puts out around 350hp.

There used to be kits available for the 18RG and 18RC.

Yes it should fit as the Aurion and gen 6 Camry share the same chassis. Only the tuning of the suspension is different.

Mick I wont be able to make it on Saturday night. All the best for your 21st, hope you have great night.

I wont be out this week. :(

Your gasket for the s/c to plenum is finished.

It is in the left hand side panel in the 'My Controls' section.

I think the ECU is in the kick panel in the passenger foot well. It is on a Camry. You will probably need to remove the glove box to get good access.

I would just start with a transmission oil flush and filter change. Then you know for sure what condition the oil is in.

The only issue is that the manual is in Japanese. Other then that should be simple enough.

cant be that hard, after all its 'bolt on'

Mechanical is not a problem. Just the descriptions for the electrical wiring. Once we have that sussed out it will be ok.

The only issue is that the manual is in Japanese. Other then that should be simple enough.

Ok... i can wait, just really keen for it that's all :P

for the Install, would it be ok for us to do it at your place?

That weekend is fine by me, i take it you wouldn't be heading out to QR then?

Also, i need to know who i have to see to get the gaskets made up? Cha54??

Thankyou everyone :D it is very highly appreciated :D

Evo

Yeah my place is ok.

The gaskets that need to be made are they for the parts of the supercharger that bolt together? If they just need to be a paper gasket you can buy the gasket material from places like Repco. Or can automotive RTV type silicon sealant be used?

A "TRD Aurion brake options" thread can be found here in the "Brake & Suspension" section of the forum.

Here is some info from the research I have done for myself and also Ash (Secaboy). Please double check listed part numbers before ordering.

Rotors:-

Front

Genuine rotors are modified PBR Corvette C5. The PCD holes are elongated to give us the required 5x114.3mm PCD instead of 5x120mm. Also the rotor has a hub locator ring fitted to reduce the centre diameter from 71mm to 62mm.

Part numbers to be updated.

Aftermarket rotors for the TRD Aurion are not available as a direct replacement, C5 Corvette rotors are available from DBA & RDA. These rotors will need to be modified the same as the genuine PBR sourced rotors.

DBA part number is DBA 067 (standard). 4000 & 5000 options available.

RDA ???

Rear

At the moment it looks as if genuine is the only option. The genuine rotors are PBR made.

Part numbers to be updated.

Pads:-

Front & Rear

Genuine pads are PBR sourced. In the sales literature for the TRD Aurion they are listed as Ferodo HP1000 compound pads. The pads themselves are marked PBR performance, which are according to PBR literature capable of being used from high performance street up to and including club level motor sport. These pads are quite hard on the rotors and have a very high dust output.

Aftermarket options appear to be very good as the pad shape for the TRD Aurion is shared with the Corvette C5/C4, some HSV's and the XR8 Falcon. I have found the best way to find pads is to look up '01 C5 Corvette for the front and '96 C4 Corvette for the rears.

i) Bendix part numbers are F) 7599 and R) DB1354

ii) Hawk Performance part numbers are F) HB247x.575 and R) HB112x.540 x=compound, Street compounds F=(HPS) High Perfomance Street, Z=Performance Ceramic.

iii) EBC part numbers are F) Red Stuff - DP31162C or Yellow Stuff - DP31162R and R) Green Stuff - DP21167 or Red Stuff - DP31167C or Yellow Stuff - DP41167R

Currently Im using genuine rotors front and rear with Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. I have found these to be much quieter and a huge reduction in dust compared to the genuine pads. After almost 5000km I do feel that these pads are also as good if not better than the genuine pads in braking performance.

I have had one small issue with the anti squeal shims on the inside rear pads moving and causing them to touch the back of the park brake drum. They appear to be just attached with a double sided tape and the piston does not press squarely due to shim being a different shape to what is fitted to the genuine pads. They were easy to remove and would recommend anyone using the Hawk pads to do the same before fitting.

Evan be patient I can take care of that when we do the install. I have the tools we need to swap it.

The weekend of the 19th Sept is going to be free for me.

They were nice about it. just asked what we were doing and why, took ID details and rego numbers. My Aurion was the car that got most attention when they were getting my rego number they had a look through the window with a torch.

so, so glad the celica was at home.

Yes that could have been interesting.

I think the experience would have been similar to being f*cked in the ar*e with a parking cone...

Thats another way of putting it!

They were nice about it. just asked what we were doing and why, took ID details and rego numbers. My Aurion was the car that got most attention when they were getting my rego number they had a look through the window with a torch.

so, so glad the celica was at home.

Yes that could have been interesting.

Just keep my left hand full of coke and i'll do anything you want.

that is a VERY open statement!