DJKOR

VF-X has. Apparently it isn't much of a difference. Care to eleaorate more VF-X?

Reflector headlights spread light unevenly and have a tendency to cause more glare and less brightness where required. Projectors on the other hand are very focused and even. The only disadvantage with the projectors is that it doesn't put much glare outside of it's designed focus which as a result makes it difficult to see objects outside of its beam pattern. Not very friendly on night time mountain drives. The best way to understand it all though would be to look at the following pages: Automotive lighting FAQ - Headlamp Reflectors Automotive lighting FAQ - Projector units This is just so you can see the difference in the design: And this is what a projector output looks like:

JIN: Out of the amplifiers you have selected, you're choice gets narrowed down depending on what impedance driver you get. - If you go for a 4 ohm sub, then option 1 or 3 would be the better of the four. - If you go for a 2 ohm sub, then option 2 or 3 would be the better of the four. When buying your amps, the general rule is to have it provide equal or less power than the driver can handle. As well, it's not required but instead it helps keep things clean by sticking with the same manufacturer for the driver and amp. On a side note, I have an MTX 400W RMS Sledgehammer @ 2 ohms, being driven by an MTX Thunder Monoblock pushing 300W RMS. I didn't have the budget at the time to go for a full 400W amp which I kind of regret at times, but there is still quite a large amount of bass present.

I can raise either the front or back of the seat on mine, which is standard. You can adjust the tilt as mush as you want as well. Which part of the switch are you pulling/pushing? With the 'long bar' switch, you can pull or push on either end to adjust the front or back of the seat. It's hard to explain in words really, but you can adjust the seat tilt in either direction. This may be of use as well: Power seat animation

Our dear DJKOR aurion master, I am living in Brisbane and getting one of those unit. Can I buy you a meal? I highly encourage the DIY option first. It let's you learn more about your car and the procedure itself it really simple. From the advice on the boards, sera709 was able to successfully do the job himself. If you're still stuck, you should rock up to one of the weekly meets. That way you could introduce yourself and at the same time I can give you some assistance.

Anywhere that sells auto parts. Supercheap, Repco, Aurobarn for the dedicated stores. You can even find them in the auto section of BigW and the likes. Certainly not hard to find.

Sounds like an explanation of a H4 Hi/Low HID combination: Just swap it for a standard H4 hologen bulb if this is the case. What you are describing is ground switching. It is quite common in the Toyota's. In this case, instead of switching the positive to the load, the switch is on the ground side. Nothing to be too concerned about. Just need to be careful as it's easier to short things out even when they are 'off'.

Your Kluger has the 2GR-FE right? They have the iridium spark plug in them and those last anywhere between 70,000 - 100,000km. Changing them at 10,000km intervals are pointless and a waste of money. Your service logbook will show the service intervals for them. As for when it gets changed, without taking them out to check, all you have really is the service summary from the service department. You should make sure that everything that the logbook says should be checked/changed, does appear on that summary.

There was a little bit of a story behind all this. First BLCKLABEL introduces himself to the board, showing off his grill he picked up in Thailand, then there was this massive search to try and find who sells them. apg39 considered the idea of custom making one, but this would have proved to be a little difficult. Eventually a supplier was found and you can now order them shipped from Thailand like a few of us have. BONDIE was the one to find success in this method. It works out cheaper to buy in pairs and split the shipping with someone as well. Some threads of interest: Just got in contact with Thailand Got the grills from Thailand

Well it goes something like this. A sealed enclosure will generally give you better sound quality. This will come at the expense of less volume. To be able to acheive the same volume as a ported enclosure, you will need a better (more powerful) amplifier. So you buy a more powerful amp and a sealed enclosure, you will have the volume of a lower rated ported enclosure but with a higher sound quality. Then you think to yourself, with this more powerful amplifier, then I can connect it to a ported enclosure and get even more bass. When it comes to bass, a large majority of people out there don't notice the difference in sound between the ported and sealed, especially once the sub is locked up in the boot. If you know exactly what you are looking for, you're best to test it with your preferred style of music before buying. Like I said, no one solution is the best answer. Everyone hears their music differently.

Proir to getting my Auspack unit, I was running of the stock 6-CD MP3 changer. You simply just need a line out converter. For a subwoofer setup, you simply tap into the rear speakers then you run the RCA's from that to the amp. You can pick these up at Jaycar and most car audio stockists for under $30 for a two channel converter. These are okay for sub use as noise isn't much of a great deal, but for amplifiers for the rest of your speakers, you best buying a higher quality type. JBL CleanSweep is an example.

Nothing of major importance here, just more of my curiosity really. You're best having a window down or your door open during this. If you don't have the Smart Entry system and have to run your car the traditional way with the key, next time you get into your car switch the key to 'ACC' then very slowly turn the key towards 'ON' but don't go all the way, so you will be eventually be sitting part way between the two clicks. Does your radiator fan come on? If that's the case, I wonder why that happens. I don't see a need where you would need to have to forcefully cool the radiator like that, and it's not something mentioned in the manual. The fact that the radiator fan comes on then and not solely when the key is on 'ACC' or 'ON' by itself shows that there is a contact in the tumbler made for that specific purpose.

With all this in mind about ported vs. sealed, you just need to remember that no one design is better than the other. There are many varying factors, and as mentioned, music type is one of them. If you were to go ported, make sure you either build the box to exactly what the sub manufacturer recommends, or buy a box that was built specifically for it. With a properly built box, you can get great bass without sacrificing 100% of the advantages of the sealed setup. The car in which you put it in as well makes a lot of difference. I find that hatchbacks or anything with not much of a rear parcel shelf go hand in hand with a sealed setup. This is because a lot of the bass you hear comes straight from the sub to your ears. With sedans with a decently sealed boot, I find that ported seems to work pretty good because the isolation of the boot gives the sound waves more reflection and as a result, the drawbacks of the ported setup aren't so bad. The thing with testing the subs is that the only best way to test it would be IN your car. Sure you can listen to them at the shop, but in an open air environment, you may not get the best representation.

... Well I guess that answers the question whether it can be done or not.

whitestivo pretty much hit the nail on the head there in regards to the ported/sealed issue. I only have a ported box because I wanted a pre-designed MTX and that was all I could get. The only reason why I think I may have gone for a sealed unit is because the enclosure can take up less room. That wasn't enough to sway me since I'm 21 and single with a family car, so boot space isn't of concern (even still though, I can fit 2 suitcases in the boot). I didn't really plan around getting the best ever sound quality, so that wasn't a deciding factor. That said though, my ported enclosure gives some pretty strong and clear bass. It also comes down to your music style as well and the clarity that you require. I listen to a lot of techno and live off the bass, so my ported box does the trick. On the Aurion, I have found that the sweet spot is with the sub firing sideways across as much of the span of the boot as possible. I have experimented on all other positions (together with my old sealed enclosure), and found that I lost volume and punch in any other configuration.

The only chrome grill that is available in Australia is the one from Toyota as used on the Presara. You can order from Thailand though like a few of us have. BONDIE was the one to find success in this method, and even has a chrome grill himself. some threads of interest: Just got in contact with Thailand Got the grills from Thailand PICS OF NEW GRILL ON BEAST His pictures aren't quite showing anymore which is a bit of a bummer.

Bass at the right frequency can cause damage to some things. Running at 400W RMS, I wouldn't be overly concerned. My 400RMS woofer is only running at 300W RMS and that is enough to really shake stuff. At full bore you can hear the spoiler rattle a little and something deep within the rear bumper rattling. As well, my rear view mirror shakes a bit, but most cars will do that with a good sub. Long term effects are a bit questionable as each car varies and some may be more susceptible to the constant pounding. The Aurion though, I wouldn't worry. It's a solid car and nothing should shake loose; it would just sound funny with the buzzing. As for the power draw, I wouldn't be worried at the 400W RMS level. You stock alternator would be absolutely fine with it. You can safely go to around 900-1000W RMS off your stock alternator and not have issues. This is bearing in mind that you are already driving, you have your parkers, headlights, and high beams on, and are running your amp/s at full level. You may not think 1000W RMS isn't much when at full bore, but at those levels in the car environment, your ears won't be quite happy. Anyways, this is my final setup. I'm too lazy (and pov) to do a custom unit: Once the spending frenzy is over, I will work on lining my boot with some sound-deadening material.

Good choice mate. Your first car is always the most fun. Those engines sure are reliable. My old SV21 Camry had the same engine. Bullet-proof that one was. Sounds good with a pod filter (and even better with an exhaust) as well. I LOL'ed when I saw that steering wheel. I had the exact same one on my Camry. Only difference is that it had this triangle pad thingy that went over the centre and covered up the horn and bolts. It's nice soft around the 2/10 o'clock position isn't it.

Stock ones are better in the sense of car performance cause it draws less power from the engine, in theory Correct me if i am wrong Well the HID's draw less power than stock halogen bulbs when running (up to 3A for HID vs. up to 5A for halogen) which leads to about 4 amps saved for the pair. Startup current can be up 1.5-2 times for HID though when compared to halogen, but this is only a very very quick period and doesn't mean too much on the wiring of newer cars. As for the drain on the engine, 4 amps saving is going to mean stuff all. Only case where this plays part is if you have a lot of them in rally car style. That is actually sound advice. Most cars when starting will kill all accessories due to the massive power draw for that period. This would cause halogen bulbs to dim, but for HID's, a majority of them will turn off as the voltage to them drops below their working range. This will cause them to have to reignite again. One of the common causes for HID bulb wear is many on/off cycles. So having them on before starting your engine just puts un-necessary stress on the bulb. Nothing too major, but it will affect it over time.

^ Now those are hot hot hot.

The two replies above forgot to mention one crucial issue. The stud pattern on the Aurion is not 5x112... it is 5x114.3 so straight up those rims will not even mount on the car. As for the staggered rims on a FWD, it is only for looks and best saved for a show car only. As mentioned, it will bring too many issues with it and it will be a waste of tyre and money.

I've said it many times; as much as I don't like the Police in general, their cop Aurion is a head turner for me. It just looks so clean. Usually on a Friday/Saturday night you see a few of those and unmarked SX6's around that area. As for your car, it seems a bit questionable. Personally I think it will look a bit tacky unless you can pull off a very sweet design.

My unit came with the hole saw which was the exact size to cut a hole to fit the camera. Made things much more simple. Everything to get the stereo working is plug and play. The only things that require extra connecting is the handbrake ground (green wire) which I just grounded to the body of the stereo, and the reverse +12v sense (pink wire) which I connected to the harness in the passenger kick panel that leads to the reverse lights (shown below). If you go that route, the plug that you will tap into has two red wires. The one you are after is that one with the silver dot on it.

General rule is that you always fuse whatever you connect to power. Most things in your car are already fused (ie. dome light, cigarette lighter socket), so you can rely on those fuses if you are that lazy, but this is only useful when you run the same gauge wire as stock. Otherwise your additional cabling becomes the fuse. Just be careful when running anything off your keyhole light. As the keyhole light is just one low wattage bulb, or even LED's, the wiring to it may possibly be of a very thin gauge. Connecting an extra load to it (even a pair of footwell LED strips) may put a little stress on the stock cabling depending on how good it is. Just make sure you sus out the stock cabling first. My preferred option if I was to run it from the keyhole light would be to use a relay. Only issue is that if your lights fade on/off, the relay won't let that happen to your connected lights. That's why I didn't go that route.

Even I dream of a turbo on the Aurion. It will probably only remain as that since there is absolutely no room for it. Either way, supercharger FTW. Like Saj said, you dream car standards aren't too high. Gotta dream harder. It makes you work harder and with more determination. Now this is what I dream of driving: