DJKOR

To save on the hassle, you can just choose to stick with what Toyota uses when you get your car serviced. If you are picky (like me), you can bring your own oil in. My reply in the thread 'New member here ~~question for Aurion service' In my opinion, the Australian winter is just not cold enough to justify using an oil grade lower than 10W30. If you really wanted extra assurance in winter, you could go for 5W30, but there really isn't a need. 10W30 is good all the way down to a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius, and the 5W30 is good al the way down to -30 degrees. To be on the safe side, you take (add) 10 degrees to this. So if you think your car will experience temperatures lower than -10 degrees Celsius, then go for 5W30, otherwise you will be fine with the first. As for the oil I use, it all comes down to personal preference; everyone has different opinions. I use Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10W30. It is a fully synthetic oil and it only costs $39.99 for a 5L bottle. I change my oil at 7,500km intervals, so the price point is a good one. Have not had any issues with the oil at all. Another thread of interest: Best engine oil?

From the thread: LED and HID and Kangaroos

Don't forget the ECU if you were sticking with the full conversion.

All good mate. At least the details are here for the future. Not everyone thinks alike or is willing to just pull stuff apart on their car. As for the glove box light, your glove box is definitely coming out. Not hard though, two screws on the underside, and three screws on the inside. Then it all just pops out.

Okay, time for yet another update. I really need to work on how I drive, this is starting to get out of control. As usual, my recordings can be found here: Aurion Fuel Consumption (Excel Spreadsheet) - At 4010km, my total fuel used was 417.14L and my average fuel consumption was 10.4L/100km - At 8385km, my total fuel used was 907.83L and my average fuel consumption was 10.8L/100km - At 12781km, my total fuel used was 1420.46L and my average fuel consumption was 11.1L/100km - At 15716km, my total fuel used was 1772.86L and my average fuel consumption was 11.28L/100km - At 18333km, my total fuel used was 2089.2L and my average fuel consumption was 11.4L/100km - At 21099km, my total fuel used was 2432.43L and my average fuel consumption was 11.53L/100km

if you get caught.... And if you get in an accident and they find that there is no airbag...

Well, it's beyond hot outside at a 36-37 degrees Celsius, but this is for you. It took longer taking the photos than the actual procedure itself. How hard did you poke exactly? .... jokes. Just follow the photos in order, you should be able to figure it out:

Yeah. In my opinion, I would go for the Ultra Racing gear. It's a tough call, but I would reckon that reducing the body roll first will have slightly more benefit over 20mm wider tyres.

If you watch the video then read the following quote, you will see the piece I'm talking about. The plastic attachment comes WITH the filter, and you simply connect any hose to it that will fit. Garden hose would be one example.

Remember what you told me Rowan about these TRD Aurion's being a keeper if you have one. Now it got that little bit more rare.

Yeah, I guess it all comes down to the parts department themselves. For one of them, I easily got a quote and expected order time for a part for the TRD. He simply turned the screen around and asked me to point out the part. When I was buying a replacement rear light for my Aurion and getting a quote for the mirrors (for the US forums), they just asked for my VIN to make sure there are no variances in the parts design.

I'll give you my support. I really don't know what you have planned, but I believe that you have a chance (if utilised properly). Just because someone says it is impossible, doesn't meant it can't be done. As for me hitting lift... not going to happen in my car. But I guess the V6 compensates for it.

If it's raining at about 8:45, train it is. Looks like it's only a small patch of heavy rain though.

Gav. Just try to keep your cool on the road eh. This is holiday season; prepare for the worst of all drivers. Actually, I have come across so many hopeless drivers over the last week, I am really, really considering airhorns now.

So smooth and clean. Great list of mods as well. As for the voltage stabiliser, I hope you didn't pay too much for that. With the size of the capacitors in there, one must question its abilities. I guess that's why most of them are built into a non-transparent case.

Well in the first post Ascendant justice was referring to his car. He has the new Corolla which has no issue running on standard unleaded. The posts in reply to this are directing at that situation. Maybe if anything, Modena slipped up and said "All the local Toyotas (especially Corollas) are tuned for 91 RON."

Yeah, pegaxs is right in his statement. You will only reduce the octane rating in that short of a time period if you are allowing your fuel to evaporate. In simple words like Northy mentioned to me one night, when you open the tank of fuel and here that hiss... that's the octane. Like pegaxs said, the fuel tank cars are sealed and that prevents this evaporation. I was actually surprised (even a little excited down there) when I read about the Pontiac G8 GXP the other week. They offer an upgrade to an LSX454 engine... well they don't make the cars from factory like that, but it can be bought as a crate engine for use in it. It is a 7.4L naturally aspirated carbureted, 476kW engine pushing 813Nm. Read about the engine here. Damn that is hot. My bad for steering off track, I got a little excited on the subject.

Yeah, patience is good when looking for a 2nd hand car. The right one will come if you are willing to wait. My old man kept telling me to be patient, and in the end I saved a lot of money and got a car in perfect running condition (after the cleaning of course).

Okay, so back from my test drive. Bearing in mind this is how everything was when I was driving (before and after): Everything I state is based on what I felt. Not really an accurate representation, but trying not to be biased, here goes. The following is a comparison between having the front 'cold-air intake' removed and having it fitted. With it removed: - firstly it sounded deep and aggressive. Around 1800-2000RPM under load though, it had this deep harmonic resonance similar to when an exhaust reaches its 'sweet spot' - between 1000-2500RPM, it feels like it has lost a bit of the pull that it previously had, - between 2500-4000RPM, it felt exactly the same. Didn't feel like it lost anything, didn't feel like it gained. - above 4000RPM though and with WOT, things started to get interesting. If you've driven the Aurion and planted your foot down, you would know that feeling of how it just keeps on pulling and just doesn't seem to end. Well, that feeling was increased a bit. It was all just a test though. I like to build within a set boundary and just thought that it would be nice to keep the stock air box, but just divert the air to it in a different way. Though, as much as I can swear it felt better under higher RPM, I'm guessing that the ECU would eventually catch onto it, then I'd just be left with the sweet sound. Edit: Since I had to head down to get some throttle body cleaner, I thought I would restore everything except this time remove the lower resonator (in first case I only blocked it off). I figured by removing it there will be more channels where air can go. The end result... pretty much the same as when I removed the front duct. Final conclusion, the intake on this thing is pretty good as it is. I think we already came to the conclusion that an intake will only get you good sound... which it sure is nice. I figured that the reason why the car felt like it was going better was due to the fact that I was giving it a beating not long after starting the engine (warm of course). The ECU on these are pretty intelligent and I think that is what is accountable for any changes you feel.

While still on this topic, my curiosity has gotten the best of me. I've decided to have a look at the handy factory standard cold air intake on our Aurion. This is what I have found... yet another resonator (look to the left): But that's not what's got my attention. The connection to the air filter box itself is quite large, however they have squished the piping quite a bit to fit it all in place. I'll let the photos do the talking. As well, the air box has two inlets, and you can see where the other leads to on the first photo. Even still, that second pipe gets squished to half that size in near the lower resonator. Probably will make matters worse by removing all the restrictive points, but I'm still gonna take it for a drive now to see how it feels and sounds. No harm in testing that I guess:

Well, you're the only one here that I can think of that has taken the Aurion to the track so far (good work on that once again), so you should be the perfect candidate to pick up a strut bar and/or the rear sway bar and take it back to Wakefield. Hehehe.

Yup, brought in two bottles, one full, and half and told them that my own oil is on the passenger's side. When I got my car back, I had one empty bottle, and one partial bottle left on the passenger side floor. They gave me an empty bottle back for reassurance I guess which was nice (always useful for pouring old oil in), whereas Sci-Fleet just threw the bottle away. All three cars in the family use the same oil for convenience so that there aren't multiple types of oil laying around. With the Fuchs costing $39.95 per 5L, it works out to be $7.99 per litre, and for a full fill on the Aurion, $47.95 (although initially expensive as you need to buy 2x 5L bottles). Not bad in my opinion. I'm not too sure what Toyota would charge, but e240 says Toyota's fully synthetic should only cost around $55, so even if you were to go for a fully synthetic from Toyota, you should be looking around $300 or less.

That's a definite yes from me. Oh what a (freshly serviced) feeling.

All good for reviving the thread. I wouldn't mind one as well if they are still available.

I agree with you on that one. It's not the fuel itself that gives more energy, it's the fact that you can put more of it into each cylinder (provided you have enough oxygen to match). The gain from this though on a modern, already tuned engine is barely even noticeable. With the Aurion, the switch to premium only gives a further gain of 4kW, which no mater how hard you try, you just won't feel it. With respect to that and using the Aurion as an example (as I don't even know if the new Corolla has better figures on premium), I figured that when running on normal unleaded, it simply puts less (ever so slightly) fuel in on each cycle, but also reduces the air intake to suit. This gives it a rating of 200kW. When it has premium though, it is able to let as much air in as possible, then it can simply add the right amount of fuel to suit.