DJKOR

I hate it in cars that have this really deep bassy tone whenever you have the windows down. It's one of those ones that feels like you are metres underwater. It's not that bad on the Aurion, but then again, I drive with my front two windows down 90% of the time. Want something fun? Don't do it for long though (eg. do it really quick), but keep all your windows up, get up to about 80km/h or higher, then put ONLY your rear windows down. Certainly something scary then. It feels like your car is going to explode from the pressure. Most likely, you will only get your windows to about 3/4 of the way down before you immediately change the direction.

And how does that make you feel? Warm and fuzzy inside? What shocks me is when someone takes pride in their speeding. I exceed the limit on a daily basis around the 10% mark, and I completely understand exactly how stupid I am for doing so. Sure I'm not the best to comment back, but I at least control my speeding to where there is barely anyone around so that if I stuff up, I will only be wiping myself out. Besides, going anymore than 60km/h in any residential zone is just plain stupid.

This one reminds me of a grey Suzuki Swift.

I would have to say the gear shifting lag comes in at number one. Second up is the steering to the left issue that needs to be taken elsewhere to get fixed. Speaking of which though, that should be fixed in my car soon as Santa was nice enough to give me a voucher to fix it up at Fulcrum.

Actually, if your on the road in the wet on any sort of vehicle, you should be taking it easy. Though, I've found that the Aurion does seem a bit light on the road and tends to grip that little bit worse than other cars in the wet.

SX6... no can do (cheaply). This is what you would need: 1) The control ECU for the Smart Entry, 2) Receiver for the ECU (mounted on C-Pillar, and different to the standard one), 3) The push button switch, 4) New drivers side door handle, 5) New steering column (as it has a motorised lock assembly and no key tumbler) 6) At least one Smart Entry transponder key. Don't ask me how much that will all cost. My best guess would be that you won't want to know.

If you are willing to fork out a bit of money, you can buy one from here. You will be looking at USD$184.88: http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/TRD-Push-Start-Switch-51266 Alternatively, just stop over at you local Toyota spare parts department and inquire on how much one will cost from them. Just ask them to bring up the parts database for the TRD Aurion 3500SL since that has the red push button as well. If you want to do it cheaply but properly, remove the button assembly, pull it apart so you have the surface of the button separated, and paint it appropriately. These switches cost a lot because they have RFID components inside and are more than a simple switch. Still more expensive than what they should be, but that's mark-up for ya.

That's what I did in the same scenario. Accidentally forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in and it threw not only the 'check engine' light, but the 'Check VSC System' as well. I took the fuse option and didn't loose my clock or my stereo settings.

You will find the traction control has it's own ECU (sometimes built into the main ECU) and the only thing between that and the battery is a fuse, no relay. You run into a problem or two though if you plan to cut the power to the traction control. Say you put a switch between the battery/fuse and the traction control ECU. When you flip the switch off, the traction control will now be disabled, but this will also throw a MIL code and the 'check engine' light will come on. Turning it back on isn't simply a case of flipping the switch back on anymore. You would have to either have a OBD interface to clear the MIL code (which won't necessarily re-enable the traction control), or disconnect the power to the main ECU for about 20 seconds to reset everything (which will definitely work). Only problem with the second option, you will need to turn the car off to do this and you ECU is also going to forget it's custom map that it had set up to your driving. If it were that easy, I'd have a traction control override switch in my Aurion already.

LOL. Good find.

Solee - Impressed (Original Mix) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxj_l7j537g Love the synth in it, and the bass is great if you turn your subs up.

There was some bloke in a white Sportivo who travelled down to the Coast for the 2008 National Meet (I don't think he stopped at Hooters). I just couldn't keep up with him. I think I remember someone mentioning that he had a nitrous setup or something. Either way, that Rolla certainly had more pull than a stock one, and had no hint of turbo or supercharger.

That's a quality writeup there pegaxs. Always has that special touch to it. As that was being read in my head I was thinking, but then you simply get back by saying that you paid for it... then I kept reading: Now I really cracked up. I like you style.

I wish the Aurion filter was offered in an activated carbon design. The filter is good at preventing dirt entering the car, but if I end up stuck behind a diesel truck or ute, I end up with the fumes though the vents. I always leave my fresh air on when the A/C is off as it gives the A/C a good airing. I guess I'm quite weird then. I actually like the smell of the exhaust from LPG vehicles. Something about it that just smells good. Not that I enjoy sniffing exhaust fumes; just that I don't mind LPG exhaust.

Fitting it in would be as simple as a swap as they share the same size. The one thing that may require some further work is certain sensors. In general upgrading yours on your Camry to the one on the Camry Sportivo or the one on the Aurion AT-X should be a direct plug-and-play. The Optitron meter with Multi-information display available on the Aurion Sportivo requires extra wires as there are additional sensors for the thermometer/fuel consumption display. Nothing that can't be done, just requires a little effort. In my opinion though, it is not worth it for the extra benefit that you get, unless you can find one really cheap. I imagine it being towards the $1000 mark or greater.

Aww cmon lift in first is only 70k! And unless you were accelerating from a standstill on the highway, then I'm sure you would exceed the speed limit at 70km/h. As for me, it's hard to answer. The best question for myself is when DON'T I speed. I never pay attention to my speedo as I always know that I am above the prescribed limit, usually by about 5 to 10km/h. The only times I stick to the limit are if there is a speed camera (or a radar hotspot), or if I am driving in a school zone or a built up area near a school where there are lots of people/kids around.

Yeah, I won't lie and say that I don't speed, but I'm not lying as well when I say that it give me some serious thought about it all after watching videos like that. It is just a habit that I simply can't shake off though. What I usually find more dangerous on my day to day driving are drivers that don't realise that the road is shared with others and watch their surroundings properly.

At this point in time, you only have two options available to you. You could either buy the part directly from Toyota, but be prepared to spend A LOT of money, or alternatively you can try your luck and search around the wreckers for any ones that have crashed, which should then save you a little (but it would still cost a bit). If you would like to get the part number, just ring up or stop over at your nearest Toyota spare parts department. That's what I do whenever I need a part number... it doesn't take much effort for them to bring it up in their system. With the cost of it, you should look into upgrading to the Aurion's Optitron gauges. They look much better than the Camry offerings.

Just came streaming through my system. Certainly up there in my favourites list. I could listen to stuff like this all day: Deadmau5 - Jaded (Original Mix)

The only form of forced induction for the 2GR-FE is the TRD supercharger. Costs around AUD$10,000 from Toyota, and I highly doubt they will sell easily.

I can't fully comment on this since I have a Sportivo which I would say has stiffer suspension than you Grande. I must say though, the suspension on the Aurion is really 'bouncy' but solid. It's the kind of solid bounce where you can feel you rear end bouncing up and down in the seat. I would be guessing that the suspension in your Aurion would be bouncy as well, just a bit softer. The best people here to provide opinions for you would be the AT-X or Presara owners. You mentioned how you only noticed it more recently. In regards to that, maybe you're just getting more used to it. Like when I first drove my Aurion, the initial few weeks I though the ride was extremely smooth. It wasn't until a few weeks later that I realised the stiffness in the suspension.

That sounds like it'll take all day However if the cream helps the shine....should I wear terry towelling pants? It may take all day and leave you with a sore arm, but it's worth it. That is a good approach to take when you aren't doing it every week. Me on the other hand, I always wash my car at least once a week and add another layer of wax every Thursday. Every two months, I use a wax cleaner to strip all traces of wax off, then I clay it, followed by a deep polish, then a sealing wax such as Meguiars Mirror Glaze Yellow Wax.

What would y'all recommend for $100? I'm considering Mothers NXT. It all really depends on your preferences and how you clean your car. Everybody usually thinks differently about different products. I wash my car at a self-serve car wash and use a microfibre mitt to clean it. Usually spend no more than $4 per wash. When I get home, I then wax my car. One thing I would recommend having is a 'Quick Clay' kit. You can pick them up for around $30 in either the Meguiars or Mothers brand. You only need to do this every couple/few months, and one kit should last 2-3 uses on average. During the colder months, I use Meguiars NTX 2.0 paste wax. Costs about $50 per tin, but will provide many coats. This stuff gives a really deep gloss, but it's protection wears out fairly fast. I always reapply it weekly. During the warmer months (definitely now), I use a wax called 'Sonax Xtreme Wax No 1'. It costs around $35 from Repco. This is a very hard wearing wax and provides good protection, especially when it rains. A good thing about this wax is that it dries extremely fast. Most waxes dry in about 20-25 minutes. Sonax on the other hand only needs 5 or less. It also requires less application than other waxes. That's just my preferences anyways.

LOL. I don't even know how to edit video. I can't even touch up photos in Photoshop. Plus, I don't like Evanescence... I'm into the techo and trance.

I'm not too sure on how the dome light on the Corolla behaves when you unlock, but I assume the dome light comes on when the door is unlocked right? If that's the case, you wire a 'Double Throw' (3 position) switch so that one side provides power from the dome light to the neons, then the other side provides power directly to the neons. That way, when the switch is in one position the neons come on when you unlock the doors and/or open them, and when the switch is in the other position, you can force them to be on. If your dome light has the feature that it holds on for like 15-30 seconds after you close your doors, the neons would behave the same. Then when you flick the ignition on, they will turn off.