DJKOR

It is the car that is programmed to the remote. Maybe it might be wise to tell Toyota that it is playing up and what they can probably do is erase all programmed remotes from the memory and then re-add them again. If it is not behaving as per what is available below, then something is not right.

Since there is the obvious safety concern with the ABS being disabled as part of the circuit shown in the first post, an additional relay has been added in to address this. Basically what this results in is the deactivation of the circuit (in turn the re-enabling of Traction Control and ABS) whenever the brake pedal is applied. When you take your foot off the brake, the TC override is re-enabled. The diagram can be seen in the first post as well. Now this would not be what I call a "full solution". This is basically because of the issues that can arise from potential wear and tear on the relays, switching speed, etc. Ideally, I would have preferred to have the additional relay utilise the NO contacts to cut the power to the speed sensor relays as this would make the design more fail-safe in the event of a power cut, however to make it easier to follow the design shown is the one I have chosen. It should be noted though that the intention of this circuit is not for use on road. Should you choose to use it on-road, that is at your own discretion. I understand I have made comments in regards to an on-road scenario, but by no means am I saying this is how YOU should treat it. The addition of this extra relay connected to the stop light is for a situation where you should choose to use it on road or you have left it on when you have previously used it. As a result, the circuit will now behave more like a car that comes with an actual Traction Control switch does.

Overall, the safety aspect of the discussion gets a higher priority in the topic. As a result, I am re-drawing the circuit and will post it in the appropriate thread.

Tis a good question indeed. In the times I have disabled TC via the brake method, I had never used that opportunity to try and get the car sideways. So I can't really answer that one there... yet.

Steven, you may want to edit your use of VSC. I can confirm that VSC still operates close to normal with this TC over-ride enabled.

To try and clear this up, you are using this switch to turn "Traction Control" off. Traction control is primarily used when accelerating from a standstill or when driving on a really slippery surface. As well, the TC is not 'all that's keeping the power in the road', it's your traction provided by your tires that is doing that. And to say turning it off is dangerous is just as equal as saying having it on is dangerous. Here is a scenario: You are accelerating to either enter a roundabout or turning across an intersection in busy traffic. You end up having one wheel slip. With TC on, the Aurion then cuts the throttle sharply (which it does do) and you end up entering the roundabout/intersection slower than normal. Picking up acceleration after that as well takes a little bit because it gets bogged down. THIS is a dangerous scenario. Now lets say TC is turned off. That once wheel may slip, but the other wheel still has traction (due to lack of an LSD). Despite having some slip, you still continue to move, at which the wheelspin most likely would have stopped already. You then enter the roundabout/intersection and clear traffic. And I will tell you from experience that this does happen. Besides all that, features like Traction Control and Vehicle Stability Control are driver aides. They are designed to assist good driving practices. You should theoretically never need it in the first place. So to state that it is dangerous to turn it off in the first place means that it's not the process of turning it off that is dangerous, but rather the driving involved.

No worries. You procedure of waiting for the revs to go to normal before putting it into gear is good practice as well. From being around hotels for work and in their car-parks, I see valets just start the car and put it in gear straight away. Hearing the revs drop down from their cold start revs to what it is when in gear just doesn't sound natural.

This is definitely normal for a cold start. Regardless of the outside temperature, if the engine itself is cold, it will start at about double or so it's normal idle revs.

Well it sure was fun to follow the progress of this fine example of bush mechanics.

I myself as well think such a price to pay is a little on the 'why bother' side of things. That's why I suggest DIY

There's no need to try and bring up that discussion here which can easily derail the topic. Despite being FWD, there are actually benefits. However, that's not for discussion in here. This thread is here to discuss exactly what the first post describes. It's up to the individual what they want to do with it.

It's blue in colour about the diameter of a 5 cent piece and it looks like a paper washer.

Remind me not to buy any CPU's you make, LOL. Sure you got every micron of dust out Today I got a puncture repair to my 2000km old tire. That bring the total count to 4 tire punctures in the last 3 years.

A good service always makes a man happy. On a side note, for those with nothing to do tonight, head out to Johno Road tonight for some entertainment.

That's what she said. Wait, wut?

Hmmm...

Just to correct, the o-rings and drain hose adaptor are included with the filter, the sump plug gasket is extra. Well I wouldn't call them that because of such. The sump plug gasket is an extra component and it isn't exactly free. Mind you they do charge more than what it would be worth (what's a buck or two anyways), but it's not something that is meant to be free. About $18-25, sump plug gasket included.

I swear I had a good post about this somewhere, but even I can't find it, so it looks like I shall start from scratch. Firstly with regards to the helmet, unfortunately the answer I have is eBay. That's where I got mine for at a good price. I can't really provide any information on stores otherwise. As for being ADR approved, a helmet like that can be, but you need to confirm that with the markings on the helmet because you can quite easily get one that looks the same but isn't. Now for the tips. Please excuse me for going though some pointers which may already be known to you from watching drag racing, but to cover the topic for the ones that don't know much about drag racing, I will mention them. Now seeing that it is your first time, the first thing you need to do is clear your mind of that concern. Everyone that has drag raced has always had a first time. You can't really go wrong, especially with an automatic like the Aurion which is just point and shoot. So when you get there, you would enter the staging lanes where you wait till it's your turn. As people have their go, you will eventually progress from the staging lanes into the burnout area then the actual racing lane where you approach the starting line and the Christmas Tree. If you are on street tires, I would completely avoid the burnout all-together because this can actually be more negative to your traction. As you slowly approach the start line, it is good practice to get the first staging light lit (the very top one) and then stop there and allow the person next to you (if there is anyone) to get their first staging light lit. Then you can edge forward ever so slightly till the second staging light is lit (the second light down). Once the person in the lane next to you and yourself have both staging lights lit, the countdown will begin. The lights go down the tree through three yellow lights then the green light. To get a feel for it, for the purposes of getting just a time, you do not need to worry about the getting off the line once the light turns green, but rather focus on your own driving. The timing will not start until you actually leave the line so you can sit there as long as you need, but a few seconds at most is advisable so as to not annoy anyone. For the Aurion, I will tell you that once you are ready to go, just take your foot off the brake and push that accelerator down as fast as you can. From a standstill like that, you don't need to worry about breaking traction because you will be quite surprised at just how sticky the track surface is. After that, you just keep your foot down and your car aimed in a straight line down the lane. Once you pass the lights at the end of the lane, you can then proceed to slowing down. Firm application of the brakes for pulses of a couple of seconds each would be the best way to do this in combination with down-shifting in 'S' mode. Once you have slowed down and have reached the end, you just follow the road around to return back to the start again and you can collect your time slip to see how you went. And that's basically it. You have then completed one run down the drag strip and you can now give it another shot to try and get a better time. You can either work on improving your reaction time or your ET... or both. Once hint with getting a better reaction time; aim to get your foot off the brake and foot down on the accelerator the moment that the third yellow light illuminates. Due to your own reaction time combined with the delay in getting the car to start rolling, your car would end up leaving the line rather close to when the light is green without leaving too early. For improving your ET on the Aurion, it comes down to getting the perfect balance of stalling it up (applying throttle while your left foot is on the brake). Getting the right combination can vary depending on the track and weather conditions, so there is a lot of experimenting. A good starting point here is to stall it up to about 1400-1500RPM, and then the moment you are ready to leave, take your left foot off the brake while applying throttle gradual at first then as fast as you can. It's hard to explain this one, but it will click when you try it. It may or may not work for you, but it gives you the opportunity to learn how it reacts and from there on, you can work on refining your technique.

I replied to you on FB but for future reference, our weekly meets are on every week unless it is decided by everyone that we should cancel it. We still classify a few cars as a meet, and there are some of us like myself that are always around. We don't see the requirement to having to have a large amount of people before considering catching up. And the loop is always the place when the weather is dry.

What is it in particular that you want to find out from the VIN number? One site that may work for you if you just want to find out which particular model the VIN lines up with would be ToyoDIY.com. Seems to work alright for Toyota and Lexus up to 2007.

Hopefully this new one won't give you the same grief your Falcoon does.

They need to be tied to the appropriate registration. That means QLD plates can be attached to a QLD registration, VIC to VIC, etc. Unfortunately, you can't simply swap your registration to another state as well unless you can prove you live there. You can however purchase plates from another state and keep them for display, but not attached to a vehicle.

Hope that works for you. If I find any other tried and tested methods for the Australian models, I'll make sure to post that here before the weekend. The Camry uses the standard OBDII interface for it's diagnostics and for the Toyota Intelligent Tester... if that's the answer you are looking for. CANBUS communication is utilised throughout various components of the car.

It's not that hard to do for the Aurion. Once I do mine I'll post up an FAQ for people who want to do one themselves. Unless there's already one posted here somewhere It may not be the difficulty, but rather the time and patience involved. It would be good to buy a pre-made solution like this for the Aurion, but so far I've only seen them in the States.

Hi mate. Now I'm not saying this procedure will work for you, but it has been mentioned on our Aurion forum and there is a possibility it would work for you. There is no harm in trying it though and it would only take you a minute or two, so why not see if you're lucky: