DJKOR

Posting skills not so successful however.

It has been discussed before, but in this case it is understandable that you didn't find the answer. Basically, it is still illegal if you remove it. Even though you have 3 of them, the car was designed and tested with all three in place. Removing one of them, even though the emissions may still be lower than the standard required in Australia, will still be higher than the tested design.

So much win.

If you are removing it, then there would be no need to have a cap on the amount of torque you need to apply. The main reason you shouldn't in my opinion is because a torque wrench is calibrated for the varying torque levels and you should reduce any un-necessary use that can affect it's calibration.

It helps if you mention which state you are in as it helps to make the reply more specific. It can also vary if you plan on selling it registered or un-registered. In general though, if you are selling to someone in the same state and selling it with registration: - You need to obtain a Safety Certificate before selling it (not sure about other states, but this is the requirement in QLD) - Then you obtain the appropriate registration transfer form available from your local transport authorities website. - You as the seller complete the section of the form as required and provide your current registration certificate to the buyer. You then keep hold of the appropriate section of the transfer form. - The buyer then submits the registration transfer form to you local transport authority and pays the appropriate fees etc. If you sell unregisted, basically you just obtain a safety certificate if it's stated by your local transport authority as a requirement, then you can simply de-register your vehicle and sell it. As for your insurance, that is not something you can transfer. Basically from the moment you sell your car, you call up your insurance provider and cancel it. It is then the buyers responsibility to sort out their own insurance. As for when to hand over the keys, that is at your discretion. If they pay by cash, then you can pretty much hand over the keys once you have all the money. If they choose to pay by bank cheque, if you are completely trusting that they won't cancel the cheque after giving it to you, then you can feel free to hand over the keys. But what you should do is state that before you hand over the keys, you require the cheque to clear first. At this stage, you will probably be exchanging licence details just in case. Alternatively, you can ask for a cash deposit of like 10% or there abouts and then when they give you that plus the bank cheque, you can hand the keys over. That's what the guy did when I bought my car. It's your choice on that.

I'm not saying I'm fast. I know there are many that are quicker than me. But use a stopwatch next time you do it. I'd pay you $1000 if you can do it in under 7 minutes in your Corolla though. * Treat the above as a figure of speech. Please do not attempt it.

Unfortunately I can't really improve my sharp cornering. The way I started doing Nebo runs is the way I have adjusted to it. That said, sitting as a passenger can be pretty tense. I'm not a good passenger for things like that.

Probably not the best place to discuss these matters. Save that conversation for the meet. Nebo driven legally should never have any hairy moments. As well, now isn't the most idea time for a full-on Nebo run in my opinion. When the time comes, I'll organise another run. I still have 9 minutes 55 seconds (base to Jolly's) to improve on in my TRD.

Good call. Basically I was hoping for one of those personal preference moments. Maybe the OP has found a set of 17's that are good for his budget.

Why didn't you go for 19 instead of 18?

Some people still live in this era: I don't hate the cannon muffler itself... so long as it is used properly. A car like a R34 Skyline putting down good numbers would be an example, but only where the cannon suits the style. I'd still prefer not, but if it had to go that way, that's an example where it is suitable.

Even though it's not entirely sure why the Sportivo's were specified with a different load rating, even though you are upgrading to wheels of the same size as one, you need to comply to what is specified on your tire placard. In addition to what Kenpo mentioned above, in my opinion, a 245 wide tire at that profile would be what I consider to be too wide for use on a 7 inch wide wheel.

I wouldn't have touched the wiring at the relay if I was using the stock wiring. When I fitted fog lights to an Aurion which didn't have them as standard, I used the two control wires at the steering column (that usually connect to the foglight switch on the indicator stalk), and connected these to the switch. Toyota's tend to use ground switching. What you have done there by grounding one side of the relay coil would be correct. One side of the relay coil would be connected to a switched positive (comes active when the parkers are on) and the other side runs up to the steering column. If you accidental short out the wrong side, you can possibly blow a fuse somewhere. Also, it nearly seems like you have not connected to the switch properly and instead are you are running your relay ground though the switch indicator light and not the actual switch contacts themselves. A multimeter would be useful here to check that.

Firstly... do NOT use a torque wrench to loosen anything. Secondly... most torque wrenches have a handle that is longer than a standard socket drive. It is this extra length that gives you extra leverage and therefore extra force. It doesn't help you any more than a socket drive/spanner of equal length.

I'll try to help where I can based on the partial mess trying to follow the above. This is assuming you haven't used any stock wiring. Firstly: 86 most likely matches up to what you have labelled as '1'. But that doesn't matter though because a relay coil is non-polar so you can wire it either way around. Now, basically what I would do is connect a constant positive to pin '87' of the relay. This constant positive should be connected with some decent gauge wiring and connected directly to the battery with a fuse placed close to the battery. Then I would piggy-back pin '87' to pin '86'. You can use some thin wire for this. Then I would connect pin '85' to one end of your switch, and the other end of the switch you then connect to a constant ground. From the sounds of it though, it appears you are using stock fog light wiring in your car. If that's the case, where have you wired your switch to?

After seeing that, I think I'll definitely stick with the circuit we discussed yesterday. Also, since I am really bored here, I guess I'll work on the electrical diagram so I can make a proper post about this.

Depends on the driver.

In before the flames:

Depends... did you service you car 3,000km earlier than the scheduled service (I'm guessing 117,000km)? If so, the invoice is just what they would have entered in as 15,000km from your most recent service. If not, then they probably put that on your invoice in the hopes that you may stick with it and get it done then. In that case, just stick to the logbook figures. I've noticed a bit of variation in the way they state when you next service is. Some people tend to write the next logbook defined service interval on the stick and/or the invoice, some go by an estimation of your next odo reading that they guess your car will be at when it would be about time for your next service. I never follow what they write on those things. When it comes to doing the logbook services for warranty purposes, I just stick with the standard 15,000km or every 6 months... whichever comes first.

Hope you aired you car out for a bit before getting back in. The can clearly states the following: This should be noted as well in the steps listed above in the second post.

I'll be there.

You need to make a couple of posts first before you can modify those settings.

In my opinion, the standard height Aurion spoiler doesn't perfectly match with the rear end of the non-Sportivo's due to the lack of rear lower skirt. In my opinion, you would get a better look with a Camry style ducktail spoiler.

Yeah mate. I've been trying to get a start on all this. Mish is more on the ball than I am. I was planning on making a trip to North Lakes on Tuesday (I'll get a new wheel stud while I'm at it) to talk to the guys there to ask if they will will be kind enough to allow us to use their venue again.

215/55R17. Well you could get a spare 19 inch wheel, but realistically, how often do you think you will use it? I would personally just keep your stock Sportivo alloy and just use it as a spare for temporary use. Besides, if you go for a wider wheel, your spare wheel cover in the boot isn't going to fit like it currently does.