DJKOR

Things like that aren't exactly popular here in Australia. The Fast and the Furious craze didn't last too long.

Apart from the movies that are massive failures and can be agreed on by everyone, a personal opinion of a movie is basically just that... a personal opinion. I could sit here all day recommending movies, but in no way could I guarantee that what I find as a good movie, you would also find good. Anyways, I watch movies at the cinema all the time and am not a fan of watching a movie outside of a cinema, so I'd be recommending nearly every movie.

2GR-FE : K&N Typhoon provided no gain (regardless of external temperature) when compared to a stock intake with the snorkel removed. The snorkel think I am referring to is that curved piece of plastic that joins up to the section above the radiator. I don't entirely think removing the snorkel in the first place provided any gain if I was to give my personal opinion. 2GR-FZE : Same as above statement, however removing the snorkel on it's own I believe provided an initial gain. Prior to removing it, under WOT at high revs you could actually hear the restriction. Changing from that setup to the intake I have (not a properly designed one though) did not make any further difference. That said, the 2GR-FE sounds wicked with an intake. The FZE doesn't have as deep of a roar, but the S/C likes to scream a little. I can't comment for the Fujita kit though if that makes any difference. Haven't noticed anything that I can measure by feel. I do notice the effects on hot 35 degree + days though, but this is more from extra heat produced by the S/C.

^ Go Hiro. I can always count on quality replies from you.

Relay 1 and Relay 2 are any odd DPDT relay. I'm using these ones to be exact. I opted for those because even though it's well above the rating I need, I like to be on that side of things. Personally, you can replace the function of Relay 1 & 2 with a single 4PDT relay such as this one. Relay 3 is just any odd SPST relay. I am using a micro 12V 10A relay for that one. Relay 1 and 2 are switched at the same time as per the diagram. One DPDT relay does the speed sensor switch for one side only. You can combine both sides into the one relay by using a 4PDT relay as mentioned above. Thanks. I'll check it out when I can.

It may quite possibly be your brakes. As brakes get close to the end of their life, they have a tendency to be a bit more noisy. Having the noise go away when lightly applying the brakes is not uncommon in cases like that. I've had that happen to me before on more than one occasion. Having partial warping of the discs as well can emphasise this.

If you could get your hands on another cable to try out, that would be a good step to try. You wouldn't think it could happen, but the cable can degrade as well (most likely at the connector though). When you consider that a laptop can sometimes be more limited on the USB 5v output, the quality of the cable/connection can make a difference. The mini-USB connectors are good at going bad after many connections/disconnections and the move to the micro-USB connectors on these WD drives helped to resolve that, but they can still wear down.

Are you using the short (15cm) USB cable that came with the drive, or a generic longer USB cable? We use these drives on a nearly daily basis and have concluded that they are very sensitive to the power they receive. Most generic USB cables of about a metre in length tend to prevent these drives from working on some computers, depending on the computer's hardware. A solution we have found is to always use the short 15cm cable that came with the drive or if using a longer cable, a thicker gauge USB cable (preferably with a y-split on the USB-A side for extra power) will also do the trick.

I would more inclined to say that it isn't caused by negative pressure inside the tank because in the sealed system of the fuel tank, the vapour pressure will maintain either an equilibrium or positive pressure.

Good to hear you have had promising results, but I have seen a HID vs Philips Crystal Vision first hand and can personally say that: 1) HID's are noticeably brighter, 2) HID's can be more cost efficient, 3) There are other halogen bulb alternatives out there that are most cost efficient than the Philips Crystal Vision if you plan on staying with halogen bulbs. But each to their own.

After all the unavoidable driving I have had to do over the last couple of months, a CAI is definitely out of the question. It gets dirty enough in the engine bay. Glad I didn't go that option. As well considering I had no choice but to drive though some water the other day.

To that previous video, I don't even think WTF covers the thought on my mind. And while I'm here:

Well if it helps your search, you can also scout for the brakes from a Gen 6 Camry as they are the same.

Not when a wrecked TRD Aurion is hard to find, and a new S/C from Toyota will set you back about $4000-5000, then the ECU will be another $2000-3000. Cost wise, it is cheaper to just sell your normal Aurion and buy a TRD if you want a S/C. Otherwise, turbo will win in the price department when comparing gains. Engine not being able to take much turbo... not enough space.... this guy seems to think otherwise: 2gr-fe Turbo Pics!!! Unofficial word is that he is running about 350HP (260kW) at the wheels. You have a good contradicting statement there. First you want a S/C and am hoping for 'only' 250kW at the wheels, then you state you don't want a turbo because the engine will not be able to take much due to the compression. You will still have to boost the engine by a similar amount regardless of which option you choose if you want the same gain.

Welcome mate. As mentioned, there are topics on this forum that discuss those mods you plan on doing. Just do a search and work your way from there. 2GR-FE engine parts are a rare find so expect to be doing a lot of searching (outside of what has been discussed here) with regards to that. Another thing, all I am going to say is good luck if you plan on getting 250kW at the wheels. I hope you have a lot of money to spend on your car if you plan on doing so. Just a hint, drop the supercharger idea and focus on a turbo.

I did try making one but there were two problems. 1) I don't have decent software to make a diagram (don't know of any either), and 2) hand drawing it will be a mess (which I would understand, but others may not). Given the pin layout, I thought you of all people would be able to figure it out though. In that case, I will leave you with this. It is as far as I can get without making it messy: <<< DISCLAIMER: Following the below diagram is at your own discretion. I will not be held accountable for any damage done to your vehicle or property as a result of this modification >>> Relay 1: C1 - ABS ECU FR+ C2 - Speed Sensor RR+ C3 - Speed Sensor FR+ C4 - ABS ECU FR- C5 - Speed Sensor RR- C6 - Speed Sensor FR- Relay 2: C1 - ABS ECU FL+ C2 - Speed Sensor RL+ C3 - Speed Sensor FL+ C4 - ABS ECU FL- C5 - Speed Sensor RL- C6 - Speed Sensor FL-

Not waving anything bro, never my intention when i said that.. just would like to go with a few friends thats all.. its alrite.. most likely i will be going with my friends.. I didn't see that as Ingres' intention as well. I figured that the idea was more because we are always good at getting a big group together. I guess it shows how everyone thinks. On topic though, man what a day that was. Words just can't describe the state everything is in.

Sounds like a great idea mate, though I only have one set of arms and legs, and these are going to be used around the corner in Jindalee tomorrow and Sunday.

I'm more shocked that you carried the car battery on your car seat.

68-SMD LED's in a low beam projector makes me laugh. You should have listened because even though it didn't cost you much, you can probably guess what I'm thinking of you right now. chicken: I would seriously be wondering if those would be worth the effort. I have had the opportunity to play around with some 30,50,70, and 100 watt LED panels and I must say that for the rated power consumption, I would seriously be expecting more out of them. When it comes to lights for automotive use where you need to project the light further, HID's are by far what I would be calling the most efficient in both power and cost.

Unfortunately you don't get the flexibility of being able to turn it back on. On a side note, I have now driven approximately 1000km with the traction control wired to be off. In that time I have covered various roads and spun my wheels heaps. So far there have been no error codes so this option is definitely a goer. Next step will be to see how it reacts to having it switch while the car is running. I will get to that another day though. Tomorrow I plan on helping some mates with the massive cleanup in the next suburb.

Damn. It's about time. The fact it is already made is the only reason why I would get it. Those would give off some nice light.

They are 6x9 inside a custom sized mould. You can't simply just buy a 6x9 speaker and directly replace the OEM ones. You either need to hack up (destroy) the OEM speakers (not recommended), or get some ply and custom make some mounts. I highly suggest looking at the FAQ's, because if you did, your wouldn't have had to ask this question.

I would have been up for a meet after seeing our road out of here re-open in the morning, but after driving for 1 hour just to get into the city (a trip that usually takes 20 minutes), I don't feel like leaving the house again.

You have to custom make one. The intakes available for the N/A Aurion do not fit the TRD properly. Being in Brisbane, I would highly recommend CES. Otherwise, you can do what I have done and Frankenstein one: As for getting more power, you can try your luck with an Xede ECU piggyback, otherwise, about the only other thing you can do without spending a large sum of money is to fix the y-pipe exhaust merge at the front of the car. Once again, I would suggest CES.