DJKOR

NEVER buy stuff like that through Autobarn or the likes. You will lose a lot of money.

Solara or not, I guess it shows that it is possible to fit: 1) A 5.8l V8 in there with space to spare, 2) RWD drivetrain. If only I was made of money, imagine that transplanted into an Aurion shell.

Dick Smith = FAIL. In case you are not aware, DSE stopped their line of electronic components quite some time ago. Jaycar = FAIL. They have a very limited range of SMD components and whatever they do have, it is usually priced a good deal more than what you can get it for online (which is where you will most likely need to get them).

You will notice a big difference on the engine sound, but in terms of performance, I'd be surprised if you could really tell the difference. In terms of it being worth it, that's basically up to you. Personally, any time you put a re-usable filter on your car, if you have the car for long enough, it pretty much pays for itself. For example, my DIY intake cost me like $100 in bits including the filter. A genuine stock air filter for this car costs $30. One I go through the distance to cover 4 changes of the air filter, I would have lost no money doing the mod.

It's a bit of a wild guess, but this is what I would do to attempt to start it. Disconnect the battery and pump the brakes a few times to remove any residual charge in the system. This should clear the main ECU. Then after that, disconnect the Airbag ECU completely. Give it about 10 minutes (just to be sure) then connect the battery up again, with the Airbag ECU still disconnected. Then try to start the engine. Hopefully the main ECU would have cleared any previous codes then it will just treat the disconnected Airbag ECU as another different error all together, but still let you start the engine. That's what I would try anyways.

May as well crack it open yourself and find out. If you are going to be willing to change them in the first place, I'm sure you should be able to spare the 30 minutes or so you need to take it apart and count up what you need.

I would classify that in the 'not safe' category so long as you don't carry more than a couple of passengers and a light load. That is a difference in combined load of 540kgs all round. But even if you aren't carrying much weight and think you may be able to make it, just think about your insurance. If you get into an accident, that can be used against you to invalidate a claim.

And while I'm at it: ^^^ Oh man. I think I just wet myself.

And some more:

And some more pics from someone over at Toyota Nation:

It's kinda oldish news, but this was the first I heard of it. I don't recall it being mentioned here, so here it is. Give it a different paint job, and I'd buy one: http://www.autoguide.com/gallery/gallery.php/v/main/auto-shows/2010-sema-show/toyota/nascarcamry/IMG_5407.JPG.html

In terms of the design, I actually must say that I quite like it. I prefer it over the typical canister type that we are all familiar with. When used correctly, it results in less mess because you can drain the oil filter prior to removing it. As well, the o-ring seal is superior (in my opinion) to the traditional oil filter seal. But plastic? That sounds quite dodgy. If that's the case, I wouldn't be satisfied with the design. The metal one used on the Aurion has a couple of tabs on the top which when put together with a little creativity, can be removed without the cap style oil filter wrench. I've managed to remove the one on my last Aurion several times, and my new one a few times without the proper tool and have not put a single scratch in it. I'd be curious to see a photo of this plastic version your car has.

The following is my input on the question but just so you know, cruise control usage is pretty universal and you could have found the answer on Google. Cruise control typically has four buttons/switches/etc. 1) ON/OFF 2) SET/COAST 3) RES/ACC 4) CANCEL (you may or may not have this one) Basically, you press the ON/OFF button to turn the cruise control on. If it is factory fitted, you usually have a "CRUISE" light on the dash. Aftermarket kits vary, but you should have some indicator somewhere near the buttons. Then once you are at your desired speed, you tap the 'SET/COAST' button and the car should then set your speed. You should then be able to let go of the accelerator. If you want to accelerate you have the following options: - Depress the accelerator more and don't touch any of the cruise control buttons. The car will accelerate to whatever you would with the given accelerator position and when you take your foot back off the accelerator, the car will continue to travel at the speed originally set on the cruise control. - Depress the accelerator and when at your new desired speed, tap the 'SET/COAST' button on the cruise control. The car will then continue travelling at the new set speed when you remove your foot from the accelerator. - Tap or hold the 'RES/ACC' button until you reach your desired speed. Usually one tap of the button results in an increase of either 1.6km/h or 3km/h depending on the unit. If you want to slow down you have the following options: - If you have a 'CANCEL' button, press that. Otherwise, press the 'ON/OFF' button. This will disable or turn off the cruise control. Once you have decelerated to your desired speed, you can then press the 'SET/COAST' button (or if you don't have a 'CANCEL' button, press 'ON/OFF' then 'SET/COAST') and your new speed will be set. - Depress the brake pedal until you slow to your desired speed. Then once you are at your new speed, press the 'SET/COAST' button to continue travelling at that speed. If you want to temporarily disable cruise control, you can either tap the 'CANCEL' button or tap the brake pedal. This will return to driver control. Then if you want to resume cruise control at your last set speed, press the 'RES/ACC' button and you will continue to travel at the speed that it was set at prior to temporarily disabling it.

I'm not a fan of powercoating for rims. When subjected to heat often, it has a tendency to fade or discolour. Are you getting more fading on the front wheels by any chance?

Mate, asking the question again and again isn't helping anyone. Understandable if you post it again since the first time you asked was here in the Aurion forum where the Aurion comes with a factory cruise control so help with aftermarket devices from us will be more limited. But generally, ask a question once and wait for an answer. I'll add my input to the question the Corolla forum.

Keen as well. I will be earning myself an RDO on that day thanks to having the on-call phone, so what better way to earn it than to spend it on the beach/havin' a barbie.

A side note on the American Toyota remote start... it kills the engine the moment you open the door. Pretty effing crap 'safety feature' if you ask me. This means you remote start your car, then when you hop in, you have to manually start the car again. The $100 CCS remote start I put in my Gen 2 Camry was decent enough to only kill the engine if you tapped the brakes or put it in gear. At least that gave you the opportunity to keep the engine on.

You need to get the bush mechanic to fondle your bits. If you think it's super super fast now, he'll leave you screaming with joy.

Sorry Dee. Made plans already as even though a meet is a meet, it's lacking the soul without the group around. Super super fast eh?

You lost me! Ls? His Lexus mate. As suggested, if you have some dosh, a good aftermarket seat would be a good option. I imagine that despite being a little more expensive, it will be easier to have some rails done for it. The Aurion seats are quite large. I somewhat imagine that becoming an issue. But I haven't really taken the closest attention when comparing the two seat sizes.

The would be next to useless here in QLD. They need to make chilled seats or something. Of all the addition extras the Yanks get, I must say, I'm not fussed. All the people that think (before you say it here) that a VSC/TC switch would be nice, I honestly have to ask, is it really beneficial for you? I don't really hear many stories of people here tracking their Aurion's. Personally, I have only had a need to turn my VSC/TC off about twice in the entire year. Once at the drags, and another time to rip a skid. Otherwise, I have not come across a situation thinking "I need to turn it off".

On a side note, it's interesting how they opted to bolt the coolant reservoir in on the Gen 4. I'm not sure about the Gen 3 & 5, but on my old Gen 2 Camry, the current Gen 6, and my Aurion, the coolant reservoir simply just slides onto a bracket with no tools required for removal.

As mentioned, just switch back to 95 RON and let it work it's way through. No need to flush anything in the process. The 95 will eventually balance everything out. Switching between 95 and 91 after multiple tanks should not really cause any noticeable differences realistically. It is understandable if your weather conditions are a little extreme, but seeing as it's not summer over there now, I'd just say it's the fuel.

Just for reference, a 15-mL bottle of touch up paint will set you back about $15 from Toyota.

Fail.