DJKOR

Some people have come looking for me. This is only as a courtesy for those that I care about. The rest of you are just going to have to put up with my attitude. Grow a set if you can't stand it. I quite like it there. I'm sure some others would agree.

Time to take your centre console off again. The box works fine without it, so don't ask me how it works. I am yet to figure that one out.

For decent eye protection, I personally use either Bolle branded sunnies (if you want to spend some money) or Fish / Sport Optics brand (if you want a cheap pair you can toss around etc)... both of which I only get the polarised variety. As for how well they protect your eyes, that is a decision you have to make based on your research. Manufacturers like to make lots of claims, and some tests of certain sunnies may not exactly be accurate. The Fish / Sport Optics brands are good for the fact that for like $50, you can pick up a good pair of polarised glasses. On average I go through 1.5 pairs a year because they either get all scratched up or I loose them while out on the water or something. Polarised glasses will cut out a lot of glare and are really good in the harsh Australian sun. Just Google it if you want to find out how exactly it does that. Your best bet is going to a place like the Sunglasses Clearance Warehouse and trying on multiple pairs. If you can see straight outside of the shop, you will be able to see just how much of a difference polarised glasses can make.

I'm no expert, but I thought Yum Cha is only during the day. If so, I reckon a Saturday or Sunday Yum Cha at Aspley Hypermarket.

He did mention "Automatic Tramsmission Selector Lever", so I would be thinking he simply is referring to that one specifically. But only he can confirm that.

The 'V' type pattern on the RE001's will face the opposite direction on opposite sides of the car. They are an asymmetric but non-directional tire so as long as the side that said "INSIDE" is actually on the inside, you will be fine. The guys at Bridgestone also confirmed this for me... and hopefully they know what they are doing. Edit: The wording of your first post is strangely similar to this. Are you the same person who asked that question 2 years back? http://www.aus-cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=33232&start=0

After having a remote start on my previous car, I can't really see much point to getting a remote start for the Aurion. Each to their own, but at the end of the day, I don't imagine there being much benefit from it. About the best thing I did with my remote start was to take advantage of the wiring and extra relays to turn my car into a keyless ignition solution. The actual remote starting component... despite just looking cool, never really served any great purpose. On a hot summer day, if the internal temperature of your car is rather high, you are usually just better off moving with your windows down as soon as you can after getting into your car, rather than starting it and letting it sit there with the A/C running. That's more of a personal thing though. Warming the cabin up in winter though may be another story, but realistically, it doesn't take THAT long to warm up. As for the only other real benefit which is warming the engine up quicker, how many times have people said here that it is just as fine to start driving gently on a cold engine rather than letting it get up to operating temperature first? On a side note, I believe that Viper have had a solution like this for quite a while now.

They most commonly use NiMH (nickel-metal hydride) cells (1.2V) grouped together to form it's battery. For example, the new Prius uses 168 x 1.2V cells to form its 201.6V battery pack and the Hybrid Camry uses 204 x 1.2V cells to form its 244.8V battery pack. Both can supply up to 650 volts AC however due to the inverters used. Anyway, that probably provided more information than what you needed. As for the average life of them, it all comes down to how the car is used, how much cycle the battery goes through, and the climate conditions. Expecting at least 5-8 years of life would be something normal. Toyota provides an 8 year warranty on the batteries, so that has to say something.

Well, the mod can cost $5. This was something I did in my old Camry, but I was young and had too much time on my hands. After doing it, I found myself thinking "whhy did I even bother to do that". Like mentioned above, you just connect some wires in parallel with the switch inside your normal garage door opener remote, run these wires to some place up in the dash, and then connect a push-button to the end of it. Then you mount this button somewhere neat and then every time you need to open your garage, you press the button that you mounted. If you wanted to be really neat, you get a 12V regulator (or 9V/whatever your remote uses) and then use this to power your remote from the car battery. All you have to make sure of is where you mount your remote. Some places in the car are very good at shielding the signal. Other thing is that if you hard wire it that way, you can't simply remove the remote from the car when you need to pop it into another car temporarily.

Spotted Ingres with what appeared to be a few extra passengers driving along Park Road, Milton (I saw you as you passed La Dolce Vita) at 1:01am.

Come to think of it, do you think the rain rill ease down around Archy way by the evening. The radar shows some pretty serious rain on it. It has only just reached the Western suburbs here. Edit: It looked pretty chaotic here when it hit, but looks like it is moving away from here. Edit edit: Just forget I mentioned all that. Skids it is.

Crazy Clarks... or if you want to spend more, KMart and the likes.

Once upon a time I remember us having a monthly Ciccio's night.

I have a remote the size of an old Nokia. I leave it in the small pocket underneath the front speaker in the door. I find no need to integrate this remote into the car and have it accessible with a panel mounted button. Sometimes, too much integration can be over the top. At the end of the day, you could simply just integrate it for the cost of some wire and a switch, but really... what do you achieve from it?

So who's up for the skids tonight?

Count me in bitch.

I'm keen.

Good mates, good times, good steak. Thanks for the company guys.

Steve... did you require a lift still. Never really followed up on that.

Oh boy. Just realised what day it is tomorrow. So who will be out. And by out, I mean who's in... to be out.

Speaking of speed, the one thing that pisses me off are the various types of new unmarked speed cameras we have. Yeah yeah, don't speed, don't get caught. But still, it annoys me. At least this one is partially obvious... unlike the work utes they use with the orange light on top.

Here is the one for you. Is it possible to wire the lights up to the dome light in the way that they come on when door is opened but independently of the switch position on the dome light. I don’t use dome light but I would like to have fade effect. I'm pretty sure it should be possible. Please post photos of the wiring. Easily. Whenever you wire something parallel with another thing, you can run it independently of what it is connected to. My footwell lights are connected to my dome light wire for wire, with the exception of the constant ground which I obtained from closer to the footwell lights. Combined with a SPDT (centre off) switch, this means the footwell lights can operate exactly like the dome light would, but independently so you can have either or both with the setting "ON-OFF-DOOR". I don't have photos of the wiring simply because I never took any, and in the position it is in, I can't really take any. Excuse the crap camera video:

This is when the thought, "don't move" comes to mind.

At QR, my Aurion was in complete factory trim. The boot was left completely intact with the exception that I removed my sub before going there. Just something to note because depending on the driver, you may not want to remove your spare and aftect the balance which you are accustomed to.

Hey mate. Pretty much as per my expectations, this oil has not provided any personally measurable difference. I made the mistake of not getting a used oil analysis on my previous oil so getting one with this oil probably won't give any indication of how well it's protecting the engine. The engine seems like it revs just like it did before, it doesn't feel like it has lost/gained any so called 'performance' and fuel consumption would appear to be about the same according to my own personal calculations. I haven't quite reached the 10,000km mark though since I put the oil in so I can't really say if it has delayed the onset of that VVT-i controller knocking, but I guess I will soon find out. So that's about all really.