DJKOR

Harden up princess

I would imagine it would have no effect on it's operation in an emergency. The pillar cover pops off about an inch or two pivoting from the base when the curtain air bag is deployed. The grey plastic trim is primarily held in place with the rubber trim near the door and due to the shape of the trim itself. If it's not held in like a normal a-pillar trim, then if they can't get it to sit in place, they should remove the trim and replace it with a new one.

Just for correction, the bulb is a HIR1 type. Much easier to find information when you get the name right. Anyways, the HIR1 bulb is a replacement for the HB3 bulb, which has a much different base to the H3 bulb you tried. Information can be found within the following thread: Headlight Bulb Upgrade Due to minor variation, you may need to modify the upper tab and/or the socket on the bulb to make it fit, but it still is the HB3 that is the alternative to the HIR1.

The 9V battery test is only really for testing the polarity of the speaker. If you ever have to do this, only apply the power as a quick tap, just enough to see which direction the cone moves in. You shouldn't have a need to do this. It won't harm the speaker in a quick pulse, but it's always better not to do what you don't need to do. It will not give any indication of the condition of the driver... unless of course it does nothing when you give it a quick jolt. As for the multimeter, only really good for testing if the voice coil hasn't been burnt out as it will show resistance when the multimeter is set to test that. This is about all you can do with the multimeter. You can't measure the driver's impedance with a multimeter... only it's resistance, which is not the actual impedance of it as stated in it's specification. A multimeter connected to the output of the amplifier will give no indication of it's condition... unless of course you get zilch readings.

Hopefully these wont drop like Rowans (and other Aurions) did... or maybe hopefully if that's what you want. The 61SL/63SL as used in the Aurion to obtain a 'low' drop had a good reputation for getting lower and lower in the rear over time. Must have been something to do with the Aurion. Looked mint though.

You need to define what you call "revs like hell". That figure of speech doesn't say much. A normal cold start rev range is anywhere between 1500RPM up to about 2000RPM. It can spike higher than that, but only for a second or two mediately after cranking. Anything outside of that is abnormal. The following threads show what is normal behaviour: Cold Start - Rev start and start at 1500 rpm V6 Engine revs When Cold

Photos unfortunately aren't exactly the best way to figure out what wiring standard your head unit uses. Your best bet would be to look at the following manual from page 16 onwards and figure out which one matches your head unit. http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen6/2GR-FE/Audio_Visual.pdf

One way to cut down on size is to reduce the size of your shopping list in it. That's why we have a Members Rides forum.

Clean and wheels are two words you can't really put together if you intend on driving your car. Unfortunately, the wheels are exposed to quite a lot on the road and no matter how much effort you put into it, you are going to have to do it again and again. That said, for cleaning the wheels, the best cleaner I have come across is the Meguiar's Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner. I can't really comment on the other variety of cleaners they have (aluminium, chrome, etc), but this one in particular has given excellent results on factory wheels. You still need to detail the wheels afterwards (well I go afterwards not during) but for the majority of it, the wheel cleaner will break down the grime. As far as protecting the wheels, the best product I have used so far is Sonax Wheel Rim Coating. It's about $25 for a can and 1 can can do up to 8 wheels inside and out. I have found that when using this, an application of the Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner with no scrubbing can remove up to what I would estimate to be 90-95% of the dirt/brake dust off the wheels. Without the coating, this would usually be about 70%. The effects are said to last about 5 washes or so. It has been about that, and my wheels are as dirty on the inside as they were when I started, and I'm not really in the mood to pull them off again.

Spotted at 4:15pm today in the outbound lane of the Western Freeway (just past the Moggill Road overpass), a silver Supra which sounded so damn awful that I wanted to cry. It sounded N/A (which would be obvious considering the P-plates) but the worst part was that it sounded like it just had straight pipes on it. And then at 4:23pm I spotted the mick.wheelz in the go-kart driving down Milton Road coming from just off Upper Roma Street.

Yours is acceptable. That's not used signature space. Pay attention to your sidebar and figure it out. If you can't figure it out, that blank space is there because the post contents + signature are smaller than the contents of the sidebar. For example, I have turned my signature off. See what I mean?

Good point. Fixed. Was originally 25, but I then changed it but only altered the second number.

Without connecting it up and having a good listen to it, there is no real way to determine the operating condition of a speaker/amplifier. The best you can do without setting it all up is to visually inspect the driver by making sure the suspension is free of wear and tear and that the cone is in good physical condition. As for the amplifier, visual inspection may not really give you much indication.

Guys and girls on TOCAU here, may I have your attention. Signature sizes lately have gotten a little larger than normal. I have had reports of members here with signatures that could be considered too large for use. The official rule in accordance with the Forum Terms and Conditions is: Now with respect to that, I believe that there needs to be an adjustment to the specifics of it all, but the following is what I will pass as acceptable (at a screen resolution of 1280x1024): Text only signatures - Maximum of 6 lines of text in size 3. Can be any text size, so long as it fits within what 6 lines of size 3 text would use. A space of 1 line (maximum of 2 total) will not be counted - Silver Members get an extra 2 lines of size 3 text. Image only signature - Maximum vertical image size of 200 pixels. - Silver Members get an extra 50 vertical pixels (maximum 250 pixels). Combined image/text signatures - Image with a maximum vertical size of 150 pixels followed by 3 lines of size 2 text. Once again, you can vary your text size if you vary your image size. - Silver Members get an extra 25 vertical pixels or 3 lines of size 2 text. These won't be strictly enforced (ie. I won't be modifying your signature), but if you get a PM to adjust your signature size and it's not followed up with, you may find that your signature will be removed from posts. You are permitted to use extra space beyond that specified above if you choose to include a link for people to subscribe and become a member. Just remember to be considerate to other members with regards to your signature size. Ideally, the smaller the signature the better, but should you have difficulty making yours any smaller, then above is the maximum acceptable size. Thank you.

My rant for today: shopping centres in general. I guess you could say they I just hate crowds in general. And while on the topic of shopping centres, those people who decide to walk really slow while taking up all the space on front of you really gets annoying. Edit: Add to that... stereotypical Sunday drivers. FFS.

I have come across a bit of a bug in the new layout. It's a little annoying at times. Whenever you have more than one quote in a reply and you try to use the {indent} tag, even with all tags closed off, when you try to post it, you get the following error: "The number of opening quote tags does not match the number of closing quote tags." If you only have one quote with an {indent} tag, it is fine but any more than that and you get the error. Multi-tiered quotes do not apply (ie. a single multi-tier quote counts as one quote).

Better off emailing him if you are game. He won't be replying on here any time soon.

Bit of a random one for me... plus a thread resurrection as well: Adam Lambert - Whataya Want From Me http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhTAQ53cmCY

If that was meant to be an insult to Modena, then that was just stupid, especially considering this thread is nearly 8 months old.

I put 2500km on my car within 2 days after buying it, then a further 2000km over the next couple of weeks. I wouldn't even call that bad.

Yes, the Body ECU which contains the distribution/fuse panel is located behind the glove box on the Aurion as well. The wiring is obviously different and that is for someone else to answer for you, or for you to work it out for yourself. Just remember that the SRS wiring also goes to there, so don't mess with the wrong wires.

Agreed. Plus add to the fact that not only will you not be working... you will also be spending money on fuel. Definitely not interested.

00UCH what a Aurion!!!! That is all. http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=1192 . Note that this was also combined with an Xede piggyback ECU. I've been tempted so many timed to do this myself because if that is a 22kW gain on an N/A Aurion, then I wonder if the TRD can have an equal gain... or even more.

If they are wired in parallel with the dome light... which I assume they would be if you want to get the fade effect, then they will operate just like the dome light does, but independently. Mine operate exactly like the dome light (Door-Off-On) but can be run completely independent regardless of whether the dome light itself is on or not.

Your amplifier usually has the remote trigger terminal located next to it's power input terminals. You can't really miss it. If you are referring to the head unit wiring and which wire is for the remote trigger, it is usually the dark blue wire with the white stripe on it. That's the standard.