DJKOR

Welcome to the forum. This has been discussed before. Search is your friend: Morning Starts Cold Start - Rev start and start at 1500 rpm V6 Engine revs When Cold Letting engine idle for a while on a cold start

When "switched on", the front speed sensors are disconnected and the ECU input is connected to the rear sensors. One for one. So on the ECU, the FR and RR input gets it's signal from the RR sensor, and the FL and RL input gets it's signal from the RL sensor. In theory, one sensor should have enough of an AC output to drive both inputs, but once again, it can only be determined by trying. Edit: Okay, so after some drafting up of my ideas, I have come to a list of parts I will need. I will probably test it first though before getting the bits and pieces just in case it doesn't work in the first place. My parts list is as follows: - 2 x DPDT relays (one for left side, one for right side) - 1 x SPST relay (for latching circuit) - 1 x NO illuminated push button (to disable TC/turn on latching relay, and indicate status) - 1 x NC push button (to enable TC/turn off latching relay) I have a crappy hand drawn diagram which isn't ready for upload, but basically this is the idea. There will be a 'TC off' and a 'TC on' button. Pressing the 'TC off' button will energise the relays, disable TC, and illuminate the button to indicate TC is disabled. Pressing the 'TC on' button will de-energise the relays, enable TC, and turn off the push button light to indicate TC is on. TC will automatically be enabled when the car is turned off or if any one of the three relays fail.

Already sorted.

His plates appear to say VIC.

When I clicked on new posts, I thought "damn that was quick". But yeah, count me in. You mean "Fridge"?

The part numbers can also be country specific if you aren't aware. You can try going to your Toyota dealer and quoting these then, but I wouldn't be surprised if this got you nowhere: 04465-06090 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT 04466-06080 PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE, REAR This is seriously like talking to a brick wall. Your persistence on trying to stick with genuine pads combined with wanting to get them locally makes me laugh. Oh well, guess you aren't needing them soon then and like to waste some time.

I'm going to tap into the rear sensors at the front drivers and passenger side kick panels. The wiring for the rear sensors comes in behind the ends of the rear seats (through the wheel arch), into the car, and then runs down each side trim. For the front, I will tap into it where it enters the engine bay. Reason for this is that it gives me more room to correct any faults should something go wrong. Last thing I want to do is screw the wiring harness up close to the ECU plug.

The ECU is expecting kOhms of resistance. The resistance of the wiring to the sensor should pretty much be negligible in this case as you will find that it's always usually less than an Ohm... even over great distance used in the car. One issue I can possibly imagine with the paralleling of resistance to ground is that if the ECU expects to the see the sensor as completely isolated to ground, then it may want to throw a code when it sees said continuity. I guess I should say it's about time to just see what happens. We COULD theorise all day on this, but there is only one real way to find out. We have spent long enough thinking about it so it looks like this weekend may be interesting. And Jeff, I did consider a logic circuit myself, but thought it would be quite pointless because: 1) The pedal procedure is quite quick to do and, 2) Not much use when you can't turn it back on without restarting the car.

To be honest, if you really think those pads will fit on your Aurion, they you really should research your car of choice better considering what you would have done to get it in the first place. Mate.... you are asking a USA specific question on an Australian forum. You need to look at the details of the Bendix pad I have supplied (because they show the pad design in the PDF) and look for a suitable pad in the USA. The American Camry pads will not fit. Plain and simple. You import a car from another country.... you go to the effort to get parts for it. What did you expect in the first place. I don't go over to the States and expect supermarkets to stock Vegemite simply because Kraft is an American company.

On the note of resistance, the Skid Control ECU is expecting the following from the sensors. Front: 0.92 to 1.22 kΩ Rear: Below 2.2 kΩ Only thing I can imagine here is if the rear sensors have a resistance of below 2.2k, but above 1.22k. When these get connected to the front, then the ECU will pick that up I would imagine. I guess there is no harm in trying though. The ECU can always be reset.

Actually, now that I look at it, I see how both arguments can be said. It's like that left/right brain teaser questions. Basically, the better way to say it for easier understanding is like you corrected then. Parallel the front sensor input on the ECU to the rear speed sensors. If you want the failsafe, use a latching relay design that utilises power from the ignition. That way when you turn the car off, it will cut the relay latching mechanism. I think I have a quiet weekend and am really tempted to try this out to see if our theory would work. Edit: Other thing I am concerned about is how sensitive the ECU is. Remember my story some time ago? That said though, the time spend with TC off would be small in the grand scale of things, so you wouldn't think it would trip anything. Edit 2: Like you mentioned, I am also starting to wonder though how it will treat the resistance when it is paralleled up seeing that the ECU can throw a code when "Abnormality in the resistance value of each speed sensor is detected." I guess the only way to know is to find out first hand. Shame it won't fix the axle tramp.

Not too be picky, but it's actually, "Connect front sensors to rear sensors" . But yeah Steven. As we discussed, number 2 should work fine I reckon. I personally think that there would be no need to worry about switching speed as well because by the speed that a switch can change contacts, I bet the ECU wouldn't even tell. And as long as you change it while stationary, it would all tie in perfectly. The cat is now out of the bag. Now to see how long till someone else does it. Apart from you and I.

As far as I'm aware, the only other cars available in Australia that use the (Bendix reference) DB1474 front brake pads are: - Camry, Sep 2002 - Jun 2006, 3.0 V6 MCV36 Sedan (Aust) - Camry, Sep 2002 - Jun 2006, 2.4 ACV36 Sedan (Aust) - Avalon, Sep 2003 - Mar 2006, MCX10R MK 111 - Avalon, Sep 2003 - NOW, MCX10R 3.0 V6 - Aurion, 2006 - NOW, GSV40R 3.5 V6 (Aust), PBR Caliper And the DB1475 rear brake pads are: - Camry, Sep 2002 - Jun 2006, 3.0 V6 MCV36 Sedan (Aust) - Camry, Sep 2002 - Jun 2006, 2.4 ACV36 Sedan (Aust) - Avalon, Sep 2003 - Mar 2006, MCX10R MK 111 - Aurion, 2006 - NOW, GSV40R 3.5 V6 (Aust), PBR Caliper I'd suggest clicking here and comparing the pads to get an idea of whether it matches up to any other Toyota pad you have locally. Judging from that list there, I suspect you may only get some luck with the Avalon, but from the looks of it, the American Avalon seems to have a different shape pad. Might just have to order a set for yourself from eBay or something.

I'd assume the old plates you are referring to are the white and green ones and you want to replace them with the white and blue ones? I'm not sure how they would go about getting you replacement plates if your current ones are okay though since most of the time they only replace them if stolen or damaged. How about you try looking yourself at their website? Their is a easy to find link right there on the main page that states "Order a replacement number plate".

Definitely earns his title of 'bush mechanic'. Pffft. Andrew's standards way surpass mine. Another thing to add to the 'What did I do to my car today'.. I remounted my amp back in the boot. In the Sportivo, it was mounted in the boot. When I moved it to the TRD, I got lazy and mounted it on the sub. Then today I got really pissed off when I had to access the spare tire as I had to disconnect the power wires to the amp (vs just the speaker banana plugs like before), so I got off my ass and mounted it. Now it's easy to remove the sub.

Mate.... can you surface mount solder? Basically this is what you are going to be doing. You don't need any tutorial to do this as it is as simple as opening the head unit, removing the old LED's and soldering in some new one. It DEFINITELY can be done... no ifs or buts. If you know how to work with SMD, then what is stopping you from doing so? Hoping to get others to tell you what you will obviously find out yourself is only going to delay you from getting it done. If you don't know how to work with SMD on the other hand, then I would advise against doing this yourself. To get you started, basically all you have to know is that the main type of LED you will come across in the head unit will be either 'PLCC2' and '1206 SMD'.

Bros before hoes.

Finally... now you have some half-decent input

Well... interestingly enough, driving during all the heavy rain we had, over all those weeks, never had any case of aquaplaning. Even during my normal acceleration and sudden braking on the highway, never had T/C or VSC taking action. That is the inside third of the tire. Outer two thirds have more depth to the tread all the way to the shoulder. Even still, for the surprisingly low amount of tread, it still cut through water fairly well, even at 110km/h. Gotta give credit to the quality of tire.

Then that is more inconvenience to Rolla Boy. You sell it and get whatever extra profit you think it will get/

Nah man... I'm going cheap. Maxxis MA-Z1. :lol: 1) Very mixed reviews. Some say good, some say bad. I reckon the car fitted to makes a difference so I will try it out on the TRD. 2) If it's crap, believe me, it wont be hard for me to eat through them. 3) I'm on GDB for the next 5 months anyways, so I shouldn't be driving hard to make it matter in the first place. I will definitely be making sure the next full set of tires will be the 595EVO's. Better place an order now then.

Mother fucker.... Basically came out of the office at 1:35pm and thought the front passenger side tire looked quite flat. Measured 15PSI on my gauge. Saw a nail in the tread of it, and figured that since I am basically just about on the wear indicators, it would be pointless to repair. When I took it off, I also found the following (in the attached photos below). Extremely pissed off at that because: 1) I was planning to wear my tires down fairly far so that I can change them all at the same time and have an even set all round. 2) 595EVO's (the tire I want to get) are out of stock locally and they don't know when they will get more in. 3) I now have to get a replacement (which also equals a replacement for the opposite matching tire) in a hurry. 4) I really wanted to keep my spare wheel untouched. I guess in a way though, these tires have travelled 62,000km and were the tires that came with the car out of the factory 3 years and 4 months ago, so they are due for a change. Just didn't want that change to happen suddenly. Other damage. A chunk in the tire which has gone through the ply. Most likely caused from the bad pothole I hit the other week. Road was flooded a bit from the rain and hiding underneath was a massive pothole: And numerous cracks in the sidewall like this:

She's not your traditional bro Yeah... she's an untraditional bro.

Just because the physical design of the spark plug is different, it doesn't mean it can be any less compatible. Those were probably two plugs that they have tested to have optimum results with.

It's my Mum's birthday so I will be out having dinner. I may be out provided that it's not too late by then.