DJKOR

I notice it with my car and on some others as well. I think what you will find it it could be a tiny bit of heat from the engine bay warming up the firewall, but more so, it would probably be your heater core. Traditionally, the heat in your car was controlled by adjusting a tap on the hot coolant lines going into the car. This in turn adjusted the heat. Nowadays there is not tap, but rather the coolant is flowing all the time and you adjust the air mix through the heater core. Because the coolant is always flowing, you can end up having some heat radiate from that area.

I think he probably wants the front parkers to come on, and at the same time, NOT have the tail lights come on. To provide input on the original question, if you want to change the way the AUTO headlight function operates, you are going to have to work on it after the ECU. Basically, depending on exactly how you want it to operate will determine exactly which route you will have to take. There are quite a few variations mentioned here so it will be pointless of me writing down what you need to do unless you have made up your mind. All options are possible and will involve modifying the stock wiring one way or another, so if you are already at that point, you may as well make it how you want it to be.

Ray made a little joke as he was taking the photos and after seeing it in the photo, it actually works. The random strangers just there chilling, as well as the car joining in emphasises the "family car" part of it.

Thanks to the magnificent skills or Ray89, I now have some more photos of my car. This is about as far as this car is going to go in terms of looks. Not too much to expect out of this thread unfortunately:

I've said it before and I'll say it again.... your work is effing awesome Ray.

Sorry to hear mate. Unfortunately you can take as much care as you can on the road, but it doesn't stop other idiots from not doing so. As for how they will repair, drepending on their abilities, you will find it will probably be a combination of panel beating and body filler. I had someone t-bone be some time back (refer here) and was surprised they were able to straighten it all out. Mine wasn't as serious around that area, but same idea I guess.

I like where this is going. Damn; if only I could even sketch like that.

Are you saying you did a SeaFoam treatment on your Xtrail, or you did a throttle body clean? Just so you know, SeaFoam is a specific brand product and is different from a throttle body cleaner. If you did a SeaFoam treatment, you would have done so with your engine running and you would have had a lot of exhaust smoke. A throttle body clean on the other hand is done with the engine off and cleans the throttle body only... and maybe a bit of the intake manifold. Dealer services may or may not include this at one point in the car's life (you typically have to mention it to them), but a SeaFoam treatment is definitely something they don't do. As for brands, any brand TBC would do, but I generally use Nulon.

I don't think anyone here has bought one, or at least reported back on their findings. I personally did consider getting it, but I figured that the 19mm one is quite a good balance for me. I reckon going for a 23mm bar would probably make the Aurion little too tail happy and probably end up being less balanced to drive. If I could somehow find an upgraded front sway bar, I reckon a 23mm sway bar would go great. But that's all talk. I guess you could be the gunniea pig for us...

I can't comment as to whether they are rev limited or not, but the question that you should also ask is that if it is, why do you want to remove it? Have you got some plans in the making? The rev limiter is there to pretty much protect the engine from over-revving, not to limit power.

Yep, just knock it out with a hammer. The front ones you can leave the rotor on and line the stud up with a cutout in the debris shield towards the front of the car. As for the rears, you are best of removing the rotor, but I can't remember 100% if you can get away with leaving it on. A side note, when I bought a new rear hub in 2009, I found that the new hub had all the studs tack welded on. If you have to replace the rear, hopefully that isn't the case, but a good heavy hit with a hammer would sort it out.

Yeah I spotted you too mate after you passed me. I was pretty zoned out since I wasn't in the best of moods. Had to drive to the Coast earlier today for work, and then had another call, hence why I was on the road again. While I'm here, not exactly a Toyota, but I spotted this guy on Thursday evening around 6:55pm going along the Pacific Motorway towards Logan. Excuse the night time image quality. Mmmm, satin black:

^ I have a pair of those above in my parkers. Hope you bought a spare set. One side of mine has blown. I don't think it's the LED itself that is the cause for the wear. It's something to do with the supply on the Aurion.

Good stuff Michael. Good to see you back driving a Toyota. Looks to be in great condition as well.

It looks that attractive does it?

The answer you need is in the FAQ's mate: Edit: You answered your own question as I was posting. Just ground it to either the head unit ground on the wiring harness or to the metal shell of the head unit itself.

Welcome mate. At the top of the 'New Members Introductions' forum, I have created a thread with some useful information about why you can't edit your profile.

Well guys and girls. This thread isn't quite progressing as much a intended. To get things going for a bit, I will post the current distribution of 'votes'. Not exactly votes, but these were the names that were mentioned in this thread and the count of how many times they were mentioned so far: BG Pete - 15 mick.wheelz - 14 Kenshin X - 7 SuperDave - 5 Juvenile - 3 Tash - 3 dutchie 101 - 3 johnnieboi - 2 Hiro - 2 Andrew357 - 1 Steven - 1 Out of the list above, I am going to try to get 5 mods. I think the first few votes speak for themselves. I have done some thinking and would like some additional comment as to how you guys would like the mod distribution. How active are each of the states? QLD, NSW, and VIC are appear to be the most active and with the occurrence of large meets happening within these States, would you think the idea of a 'mod from each State' was probably not the right line of thinking? Please make suggestions as well, because this is your club as well. As well, after some discussion with mick.wheelz at our last meet, we have figured that it would be best to leave the current moderation levels where they are. So the current 'Super Moderators' will stay where they are and newly appointed moderators will be appointed as 'Moderators' with access to all forums. This is to prevent any impressions of favouritism by certain members and to also allow new moderators to settle into the role. Edit: If this whole thing starts to drag on with not much input, I'm just going to pick the top 5 on the list there and ask them if they want to take up the moderating positions.

Hey Ray.... I'll give you $50 for a high res HDR photo of my TRD If such a thing would work.

The best thing to do would be to get some degreaser in there and clean it up. Then continue to monitor it, looking for anywhere that oil starts to appear. Hopefully there won't be any leaks. Oil does have a tendency to stick around for a bit and changing the VVT-i oil line could have created a bit of spill which they may not have cleaned up.

A bit late now (I was quite busy all day today), but what I did was run two wires from the dome light. The dome light consists of three. One which is constant +12v, one that is constant ground, and one that is switched ground for the door activation. I connected to the +12v and the switched ground. Then all I needed to do to get a constant ground for the footwell lights was to find the nearest bit of bare metal. Simple.

Is that what you were thinking when you turned down that Euro chick.

Your work is damn awesome mate. I would so pay you to do a drawing for me when you have the time.

I'll be there between 7:30pm and 8:00pm then. I think 7pm is just that little bit too early.

It's not so much 'reserve fuel', it's more so the fuel that the fuel sender can not register. Most commonly, Toyotas' tend to have the needle right on empty when you have approximately 10-15 litres of fuel left in the tank. The age, wear and tear of the sender as well also affects how much fuel you have when the needle is on empty. The best way to test this is next time your fuel gets very low, drive around within several kilometres or so of a servo until your fuel gauge reaches empty. Then fill up. Subtract the amount you filled from 70 litres (which is the tank capacity) and you should be able to get an idea of roughly how much 'reserve fuel' you have.