DJKOR

I was trying to avoid the anti-roll bar due to the Ultra Racing terminology, but yes, that is the ideal way to explain it. Not that I have an issue with it, but it's better when everyone is on the same page. That said, putting in a 23mm rear anti-roll bar in combination with a front anti-roll bar that is upgraded by a few mm would be a nice combination which would be equivalent in balance to a 19mm rear with stock front, but with more anit-roll capability all round. But upgrading the front is probably never going to happen. For clarification on how the bars work, I will quote myself from page 4: It has nothing to do with those two factors. Only comes into play when one side of the car experiences more loading than the other (which is what you get when you turn). For reference: Strut bar: Rear Sway bar:

Correction.... the front sway bar does that as a trade-off of reducing body roll. You are confusing the two again.

Just a heads up. Ima swing through around 9pm. I'm currently leaving the Sunny Coast and am on call.

At 10:41am on the Sunshine Motorway (where it passes under the Bruce Highway) heading towards Gympie, I spotted a red TRD Hilux. Since we were both going around a bend and the lanes were separated, you were out of the field of view of my camera. Then funnily enough, I spotted this grey one 15 minutes later on David Low Way:

Oh my. Why does that monstrosity have to live in QLD.

I won't comment on the service department other than to say that you should stay well away from those guys... but you already figured that one out. As for changing the oil, I'd highly recommend sticking with the same Toyota Genuine WS ATF unless you are game to try something else, and that you should also change the strainer (wwhich will also mean changing the pan gasket) while you are at it. which is why i will never buy an aurion, as sweet as the engine may be... give me a manual, or a way to service the auto, but don't tell me that fluid is good for 100k... You can still have the fluid changed at request. You can even change it yourself if you take the appropriate care to make sure the transmission fluid is heated to the right temperature. Even if the only way to change the transmission fluid was through Toyota, I'd still pick an Aurion over a manual 4 cylinder Camry any day. ---------- Edit: After looking at the U660E service manual again (haven't looked at it since last year when I first posted in this thread), changing the transmission fluid on the Aurion is actually easier than it was anticipated at first. You don't need the Intelligent Tester as that is only used to get the transmission fluid up to 39 degrees before starting the procedure. You should be able to work this out without the need for the IT if you want to change it yourself. Basically you just need to do the following (page 164 onwards): 1. BEFORE FILLING TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID • This transaxle requires Genuine ATF WS transmission fluid. • After servicing the transaxle, you must refill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid. • Maintain the vehicle in a horizontal position while adjusting fluid level. • Proceed to step 2 if the oil pan, valve body, drive shaft, and/or torque converter has been removed or if the oil seal has been replaced. • Proceed to step 3 if oil leakage has been repaired and if the oil cooler and cooler hose have been removed. 2. FILL TRANSAXLE PAN WITH FLUID (a) Remove the engine under cover LH. (b) Remove the engine under cover RH. (c) Remove the under front fender apron seal RH. (d) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug. (e) Fill the transaxle through the refill hole until fluid begins to trickle out of the overflow tube. (f) Temporarily install the overflow plug. 3. FILL TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID (a) Fill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid (shown in service manual). HINT: If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the following: (1) Temporarily install the refill plug. (2) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate fluid. (4) Move the shift lever to the P position. (5) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling. (6) Stop the engine. (7) Remove the refill plug and add fluid. (8) Reinstall the refill plug. (b) Temporarily install the refill plug to avoid fluid splash. 4. CIRCULATE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate the fluid. 5. CHECK FLUID TEMPERATURE NOTICE: The fluid temperature should be less than 40°C(104°F) before beginning the fluid temperature check. (a) With the intelligent tester: (1) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3. (2) Select the tester menus: OBD/MOBD, ENGINE, DATA LIST and A/T. (3) Check A/T OIL TEMP. (4) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 39°C (102°F). (b) Without the intelligent tester (Using D shift indicator): (1) Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 using SST (SST 09843-18040) - Or a paperclip will do the trick ;) . (2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds. (3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid temperature is within the appropriate temperature range. (4) The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 40°C (104°F) and will blink when it exceeds 45°C (113°F). (5) After confirming that the D shift indicator turns off, move the shift lever to the P position and remove the SST from terminals CG and TC. 6. CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL NOTICE: The fluid temperature must be between 40°C (104°F) and 45°C (113°F) to accurately check the fluid level. (a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling. (b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube. If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7. If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to step 8. 7. ADD FLUID (a) Install the overflow plug. (b) Remove the refill plug. (c) Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug. (d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle. (e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. (f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. (g) Stop the engine. 8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION (a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf) (b) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf) (c) Stop the engine. So essentially, all you need to do is find a way to measure the automatic fluid transmission temperature in step 5a without the Intelligent Tester, and you can change the fluid yourself. The only reason why I can imagine that step is required is just to save time so you don't need to wait for long for the fluid to get in between 40 and 45 degrees. So long as it's warm and below 40 degrees when you do step 5b, you should have no issues. So there you go. I'll gladly stick with my Aurion regardless of the procedure to change it or whether Toyota say it will last 160,000km or more. I will have it changed when I feel it should be, whether it be myself or Toyota that does it.

Everything Adamsy said confirms what SupaTouring had said back when he had his TRD. My rotors as well (still original) have quite a bit of wear on them and have quite the lip. Never been machined though and I am up to 76,000km. They are now due for a change and in the next 5,000km or so, I plan to buy some DBA slotted blanks and get them drilled accordingly.

It's not so much about needing to organise what is going to happen, it's more trying to come up with the itinerary which as easy as it sounds, it's surprisingly takes a bit of effort.

Once you go polarised sunglasses, you will never want to go back. The amount of glare they cut back is so great when driving, but for everyday use, they are brilliant as well.

WE are doing a crap job organising this Annual Meet, so how about we put some effort into that first.

Yes from R Style, and facelift lights will fit on the pre-facelift and vice-versa, so you don't have to worry about fitting issues.

Just speaking my mind so mind me if it sounds a bit far-fetched. All this mention of stuffed gearboxes, and I keep hearing "changed fluid regularly, etc". Now remember how Toyota called this thing a sealed system and you shouldn't have to change the fluid for the life of the car?? What if, and it goes against all logic, not changing the fluid is better for the box. I know it sounds stupid, but it's just one of those crazy thoughts I have.

Didn't find a real need for it. 1) The phone sits in the cup holder fine, 2) I hate charging devices unnecessarily. I was actually going to get the one with the passthrough dock connector so I could integrate it with my GoPoint GL1, but figured I would not be satisfied with a simple dash mount. I would rather have something moulded into the dash for that purpose.

Can't help you out there mate, but that was the same style of mount I was looking at for my phone some time back. On that note those, I'm not sure of the quality of the ones you posted but as far as I'm aware, the original product is by ProClip USA. I personal would trust them more, but it's up to you really. They probably come out of the same factory. http://www.proclipusa.com/

Heck yeah! Now that's what I wanna see someone here do.

Most likely not.

A Saturday night meet will require advanced notice for me. I tend to have things to do on a Saturday night. Thursday night is still the perfect day for a weekly meet. For a Saturday night week, I propose we meet at Johno Road

Yes. Anybody out here. What are you looking for?

If you weren's sure, my solution would be to have a 10mm spanner handy. That way, if you unlock the car with the key and the alarm goes off, you then go and disconnect the battery. But as everyone has already said, you just use your key and the alarm will be disabled. Useful tip for those with Smart Entry, but unfortunately the OP does not have this.

Despite sounding better, I can't believe it was his work in terms of lyrics, and listening to that still makes me want to put a gag on that girl.

OMG yes!!!! Try dealing with them when they use a VOIP line with 2 second lag.

Personally though, if I was to put those new style lights on, I would rather get the full clear tail lights instead of the hybrid. They look so much better again.

If anyone is willing, I have a 2nd hand left side tail light that I will part with for $100 plus shipping. No right side sorry, in case you ask. If you were to ask me though, getting the hybrid tail lights would be a smart move.

This was on Cyanide and Happiness the other day. I LOL'ed: This one also made me LOL:

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