11/16Aurion 12Kluger

Thanks for the reply Grant... & congrats on the new arrival !! Those LT tyres sound interesting?? Might check them out a bit more. If your factory tyres were the Japanese Dunlops like I have on mine then they are not poor quality... far from it. You will find all similar tyres will have thin sidewalls. Oddly enough, you will find thicker sidewalls on cheaper tyres. I would like to get rid of the "wandering" effect though... sounds like you had it too? Edit.. Put my tyres back up to 40 today... 36 was just too spongy on cornering and it also has cured the wandering effect. Grant... I saw something on tv recently about LT tyres on a boat trailer.. the "expert" said they had to have 60psi! He even pointed out that the sidewall stated that as the recommended pressure. It may have been unique to that brand / size of tyre too?

Oddly enough Grant 40psi is not noisy or overly rough, well not in my '12 KX-R Kluger with the standard 17" rims with the factory Dunlops. I would never run them as low as 32... 36 would be the lowest if you want a softer ride. Even at 36 you can feel the extra sidewall flex when cornering. How do you find it running the light truck tyres?? Handling affected or noise increased?

Good to hear Tim :-) Thanks for the feedback. I reckon cleaning it every 20,000k would not hurt. Speaking with a dealer service manager recently and I asked if they do it during a service at any time and he said they rarely do...

The buy 3 get one free is a marketing trick... When you take advantage of that offer you are paying the RRP for the 3 tyres so in reality you are still paying for the 4th tyre. You get nothing free there. If you buy the same 4 tyres without the special offer you will normally get a price below the RRP that still equates to the same purchase price for the 4 tyres. It is just a con for the gullible. As for tyres for your 05 V6 MCV36R... for long wear, grip, quietness, value for money and most importantly QUALITY I have found the Dunlop Sport SP300E to be perfect. We did over 80,000k on the original factory set on our 07 camry and fitted the same again. Those Black Diamond tyres you are running now are pretty much bottom of the bucket and more aimed at the cheap side of the market. Don't run your tyres too soft... 34 - 36 psi in those would be best.

Rajesh... you would never find one of those indicators in any car to be 100% accurate. They are more of an unnecessary gimmick gadget than serving any real purpose. Just refill when your fuel gauge is around the quarter mark and get back to enjoying the drive... :-)

Grant... all new cars will do it. All of them, for the reason stated above. If they made them 100% accurate from the factory then we would have todays nit picking dropkick whingers blaming the car maker when they got booked because their tyres have worn down. Tyre wear and pressure changes have never been able to be permanently compensated for with speedo calibration. If you know a way this can be done then the manufacturers would love to know about it. As for the stupid/useless drivers doing under the speed limit without knowing it... I think they are smart and making the wise move to travel at their speed indicated.

My wty has now run out and will be servicing diy in the future. Had a 2000 camry v6 for 10yrs and always used Castrol Magnatec 10-40 in that... motor was still perfect after 10 yrs so will try that in the 12 Kluger. No need to go too thin with the oil unless you live in a very cold climate.. jmo.

Hi Tim, Glad to hear you cleaned the TB .. the result is very noticeable hey?? :-) Yes, it is normal for the butterfly valve to be partially open. Make sure when cleaning the TB that you have the ignition off otherwise you could damage the cogs/motor inside it. BTW.. there is no need to remove the air filter assy when doing this... just undo the two clamps on the large rubber tube, unclip any hoses & wires and take out the tube. I did our 07 4cyl camry as well (90,000km) and it runs like brand new again.. sweet !!! :-) Cheers M8

Go to supercheap auto and get their 400g one for $6.29 DO TAPE the nozzle to the can... if it comes loose and goes down the throttle you wont be happy...

Without writing a book... Which version you want is up to you... the basic kxr or up to the grande... do you want leather, sunroof, 19" or 17" rims.. I chose the basic kx-r .. suits my needs perfectly. As for year... I would go for one around the '12-'14 vintage but that would depend on your budget. Being the last of that era (jap built) I would assume they would have all the upgrades and mods factory fitted... all the bugs ironed out by then..

$1400 for a service?? Ouch !! I wonder what they did for that.. replace half the car? But as you say Tim, that the joy of buying a used car.. it's previous life is a mystery. Pay no attention the the consumption readout shown whilst idling. To get an accurate reading the input to the system must include fuel flow and vehicle motion. Simply, the car must be moving and moving for a reasonable distance. When refuelled mine automatically returns to the maximum consumption figure and then gradually reduces as I drive. I find the best indicator of highway consumption is to fill the tank at a servo near a freeway then take a look at the readout about 30-40 k after that. Several times I have had my 2012 2WD showing 7.0/100km and remained at that rate for well over 160km. The worst it has returned was 14/100km but that was towing a caravan. If you have been driving short distances around town for a fair while then it will take a long time for the average consumption to reduce once you hit the open road. Don't take too much notice of that read out, in fact I leave mine turned off.. it can become an obsession looking at it all the time. If all is ok with the car and driven normally the consumption on an awd should be around 14 from what I have seen. I cleaned the throttle body in mine a couple of days ago @ 32000k/m and it made a lot of difference. My consumption was beginning to creep up and the performance was starting to drop off a little. It is definitely worth doing every 15-30k/k... anyone can do it and the cleaner is cheap. No need to remove the air filter box... just undo the 2 clamps holding the large rubber tube to the throttle body, unclip a connector and vacuum hose and take it off. With the ignition OFF hold the butterfly valve open and give the inside a spray all around. Let that soak for 5 minutes then get your spray in there and this time give it plenty. The black carbon will wash away. You can get in there with a bit of cloth to help it but be careful not to drop anything down there. If the spray can has a tube with it then use some good tape to fix it to the spray can as they can come off and fall in. Apart from any abnormal wear or previous fiddling the only other possible cause could be low tyre pressure (36psi minimum), heavy load (don't carry a ton of tools around??) or driving style (which you know about). I cannot imagine anyone modding the motor for more grunt as it had tons of that in standard form.

You should not have to resort to a k&n filter to improve that consumption as something is definitely not right. AWD Klugers are thirsty beasts, but not to the extent you are reporting unless your driving is a lot of short trips with a lead foot? The 2wd version would return figures of less than half of what you are getting. At 45,000k.. it would not hurt to rip the throttle body off and give it a good clean. easy & cheap to do. Let us know if the dealer finds anything.

Most new cars read about 10% below the real speed. This is done on purpose. One reason is to allow for a small safety margin against liability for fines and another is to allow for the wear of your tyres. When your tyres are almost due to be replaced your speed will be closer to the real speed. If you are pedantic about picking up that extra couple of kph then get a good satnav and use the speed readout in that.

Toyota says to just throw the hose away so I wont argue with them :-) I don't think it is a vacuum hose but some sort of drain hose. Quite common for them to fail on the 06/07 models I'm told Jim. The whole device is just a butterfly valve like you see in a standard carburettor, a black plastic case that contains a few cogs and a small electric motor. All it does is control the air flow to the motor. It is the small electric motor that fails. Toyota dealer was asking about $1100 for the part! That did not include install. I got a used one off an 09 low k camry from a wrecker for $100 plus delivery. They are very easy to install... just disconnect the wire plug, the 4 rubber hoses and remove the 4 bolts. Toyota dealers no longer sell the one that ends in 70, only the 71 version. There is another updated model that will also work on the 40 series camry. On 2.4 motors around 2005 vintage Toyota USA was replacing them free of charge. It sure has made a difference to the car, it is so smooth, responsive and quiet now and the economy seems to have improved also.

The two on the left are the old 28070 TB's and the two on the right are the 28071 versions.. (one less vacuum connector)

OK... Found an answer on the US Toyota Nation site. (cant link or copy & paste it to this forum). Should be of help to others looking for a replacement TB... The spare vacuum hose can be just left off. They claim it doesn't even need to be blocked. The vacuum connector circled in red is the one not used on the updated throttle bodies. Connector 1 is a vacuum connector and 2&3 are connectors for the coolant flow.

The two TB's are self explanatory... you can see the missing vacuum connector on the 22030-28071 when you compare it with the original 22030-28070 throttle body. I have images of both but cant see where / how to upload them to this forum.

Hi Trent, Thanks for the reply... The vacuum hose that wont have a connector is the one that goes through this part.. 25719-28040 Vacuum surge tank. Cant see where the other end of the hose goes to??

I have had the dreaded throttle body failure on our 2007 2.4 Camry. I have the opportunity to get a used one off a low k car (2009 model) but the part # is one digit higher and it has one less vacuum port. Only has one vacuum port and the coolant in and out pipes. The orig TB is 22030-28070, the one on offer is -28071. Local Toyota dealers show the 28071 as the superseding item for the original -28070 for the 2007 Camry 2.4 but could not advise what is to be done with the excess vacuum hose. Does anyone here with experience with these TBs know anything about this?? Just block it??

Even though S mode is like a manual it will still change automatically UP or DOWN when necessary. Your indicator may show 4 but it may have changed to 3,2 or 1 by itself.

Service managers are not usually mechanics they will fob you off with any story if they can. Toyota makes great cars but their Australian dealerships are at the other end of the scale when it comes to addressing vehicle faults. The only way you will get any satisfaction is to take it to a mechanic and get him to test it and give you his opinion in writing. Take that to your service manager and see what happens then. If the mechanic agrees with what you are experiencing and the dealer still fobs you off you will need to contact your state consumer protection authority. Are you sure what you are experiencing is not wheel spin? I have a 2012 2WD and starting off anywhere it is Rolls Royce smooth and never vibrates, ever.

Not sure if it is that relevant but all the replies have been from owners with the larger wheels and the low profile tyres(KX-S & Grande). Not sure if the OP has the KX-R 2013 which has the 17" rims and the higher profile tyres? I have the 17" rims and used the 40 psi pressure for the past couple of years but lately I dropped it to 36 and I notice that it grips better when cornering and has slightly less slip in the wet. Definitely a better ride and steering at 36. I might go halfway and try them at 38psi for a while. My dealer did recommend 40 psi but when they did the 10k/k service some dumbass there put 60psi in them... not impressed.

The software that the dealers use can be used to enable/disable/change a whole range of things including warning signals. The software (Techstream) is available here.. http://www.toyota-tech.eu/GTS/Wizard/Step5-Software.aspx Do not attempt to connect to your car using this software, leave it for the professionals. Dealers may be reluctant to disable warning beeps because of liability worries??? Check the US Toyota owners site forum for more info.... www.toyotanation.com

Some double din units have a small hole in the facia that when depressed for a while resets the unit. Usually a paper clip will do the trick. Worth a try?

My first thought too Clubber.... most mechanics don't bother to bleed the cooling system after a coolant flush. Appreciate your comments re Toyota service. Tried 3 dealers down here in Newcastle so far for a total of 4 services and only one managed to achieve the task without stuff ups and damaging the car :-( Very disappointed with Toyota dealerships. I wish they would use qualified mechanics as service managers, it would save a lot of heartache.