11/16Aurion 12Kluger

Eric you can add Maitland NSW to that list of dealers willing to do a good deal as well. Do your research, figure out what you want & know your "happy" price and go and see a good dealer. Trying to deal over a phone will not usually get you that special price. Be prepared to commit there and then. If you are willing to take a car they already have in stock that can sweeten the deal even more.

The fairer sex does have a reputation for changing their mind David... can only hope!! It is safer to obey though... All the best anyway.

Hi David.. I have the base KX-R 5 seater and it does have the pull out 5th seat & tray gizmo. Stick with quality... choose the Kluger. ;)

Hi Eric & welcome to the club. :D Is yours 2WD or AWD? What colour did you ask for? I recently got the KX-R 5 Seat 2WD and had a trade in which clouds numbers a little. I got towbar, nudgebar, 2 w/shields, mats, premium plate, full tank & extra 3yr wty for $37,500. That number could read $35,500 if you discount the $2k they gave over wholesale value of the t/in? Regardless... it sounds like a good price for a lot of quality motor vechicle. You will not be disappointed. (Nice pic by the way)

Welcome to the club Daniel. Got my "Crustal Pearl" KX-R last week. Great colour & great car. The wait will be the difficult part now ... :whistling:Well worth it though. What kind of car are you comming from?

These are the covers you got thru ebay Andrew? What iis the quality like? Fitted some seat covers myself that I bought yesterday from Supercheap to cover my fabric seats. Front only. Had mortel lambswool from my old car and put those on the middle 2 buckets. btw... never buy lambswool seat covers... they collect all the dust! Foud out the hard way that there are some sharp bits under those seats!!! :o Only got a small nick but it hurt! I have not tied mine off yet... going to fit some velcro to the straps... make it a little easier to get back off when wash time comes. <_<

Some photos of the new wheels would be nice Andrew?? The rear mat on the Kluger is good how it goes right across in one piece. The 1mth/1000k service will be the next thing... curious to know what they do with that? Surely it is more than checking that the wheels have not fallen off... I know the oil is not changed until 10K. Would the ecu be set different when the vechicle is new?? ... do they apply a new code after 1k.. anyone know?

Congrats on the new baby T4 ! We have had our KX-R 2wd for almost a week now and still cannot get over the value in it. Re the copy of the contract/order... You are entitled to a copy of any contract you enter into... common law. Our dealer gave us the quote in writing straight off with their first offer. Subsequent changes through further negotiation over the phone was always followed up with an updated email copy minutes later (four times :-) . They have embraced email communication which i find better than phone as you have it all in writing. A big + We had the same worry about fitting in the garage, we traded one of our 2 x 07 Camrys and measured everything beforehand .... it is still scary getting that beast in there the first time. We forgot to add extra for the wider mirrors... it fits with a couple of inches to spare. Its amazing how much bigger it seems when it is about the same size as a camry. I got towbar, nudgebar, weathershields, mats & a full tank with mine. Extra 3yr wty thrown in as well. On pickup the only discrepancy was the full tank but they soon fixed that. I beat you by one k on the delivery k's, mine was 6, but was mar12 bulid. It sure is a beautiful thing to drive, almost a limousine, so smooth and quiet.... even comming from a current style camry. Lots of good motoring ahead of us i reckon?

Unless you are permanently lost, a fixed satnav that costs extra (1700 ouch!) is something to think about twice.. They pretty up a dash but at what cost? For the rare occasion i need to use satnav i take out my portable & it is easily jammed to the window somewhere on its suction mount.. i know some leave them permanently mounted for the look at me factor... but that is personal choice. Another alternative these days is the android mobile phone.. if it does not come with nav maps they are easily obtained. Mine has all the bells & whistles including onboard maps & voice guidance the same as the regular sat navs. Good ones can be had these days for under $300... and you get a lot more than a satnav as well. I use it now in preference to the dedicated satnav... faster & more convenient. My mobile ph satnav even worked well in the middle of the tasman sea and also all around nz! Some hand sets have weak sat signal strength, so watch out there. An added benfit of the phone satnav is that if an area is not covered in your map you can just flick to internet and access it there. More convenient, and heaps cheaper.

Slouch .. my way of thinking is $1500 buys a lot of repairs. With those extended warranties read the fine print very closely. Most have that many conditons and exclusions they are not worth the paper they are written on. Some sold by dealers are only valid if you have the car serviced by them on schedule... and sometimes this can be over priced. My approach would be to have the car professionally inspected before purchase and *do not* take delivery until every item is corrected. Do not get anxious and fall victim to any promise of "bring it back next week and we will look into it then"... :-( Next thing, find a good local mechanic and stick with him so he gets to know your car. He should forsee any impending problems and do something about it before it results in a catastrophic failure. Far better than a $1500 ext warranty that may be useless.

The whole negative first thing isn't exactly a must. The action itself isn't going to cause any electronic damage etc as well. There's no need to really panic about it if you disconnect the positive first. The real reason for it is to reduce the change of creating a dead short across the battery if you are unfortunate/unskilled enough to drop a spanner and have it land in a way that it contacts the positive terminal of the battery and any other metallic object of the car. On a realistic side of things though, seeing that battery placement usually leads to te positive terminal to be the furtherest from the chassis when compared to the negative terminal. The chance of having a spanner drop and contact both the positive terminal AS WELL as the car body/engine/any other grounded component would be about the same as having one drop and short between the positive and negative terminal. Interesting.... but I will stay with the procedure recommended by Toyota and "their" reason for doing so. BTW... how is this relevant to this topic?

Something loose in the boot or rolling around under your seat?

Take it for a drive for about 20k and see how it goes then. If no good then disconnect the battery fully then remove the connector at the top of the ecu for about an hour. Both ours are smooth at idle with ac on and off at all temps. ***Be very careful fixing things that are not broken, you will be surprised at how much small errors can cost!!!! $$$. :-( *** The internet is full of forums and advice sources like this. Spend a lot of time reading them before trying anything. If you are not 100% sure then research some more until you are... or leave it alone. I hope you disconnected the negative terminal first as i suggested??? ... then when reconnecting put the negative one on last?? That is a must. Would hate to see you mess up that great car.

Thanks for the info, i might do the ecu thingy. If you want to make sure it is fully reset then remove both battery terminals then remove the connector from the top of the ecu... no power then. As for the throttle cleaning, how is it done? Google throttle body cleaning acv40r or the like... NOTE.. do not drop anything in there as you may have to remove the intake manifold to remove it!!! **** With the oil, how did you know the dealers put in 20-50w, wouldn't they be using the oem Toyota oil which i'm sure for the Camry isn't that (or is it)? Car dealers are not honest people and will do anything to make or save a $. My case was not the first time i have seen them caught using cheaper oil to save a $. Using the right oil in modern cars is a must!! (OEM toyota oil???... toyota do not make oil, just resell in their containers.)

Did not expect an EGR valve to play such a vital role in fuel economy. . I had a 2000 3.0 v6 camry and it started acting up.. intermittent rough idle, loss of power, etc. I discovered it was the ecu also. After more internet searching i found that this engine in the usa is not fitted with an egr valve as it meets their epa standards without it. For some strange reason they insisted on fitting them in oz? Anyway i blocked the valve rather than fiddle with or replace it and the difference was like a new engine, just as you have found. I blocked it by loosening the two bolts that hold the unit together and slipping in a piece of tin and tightening the bolts back up. Worked like a charm. I did wonder... as the symptoms are similar to a blown head gasket i wonder how many well meaning mechanics have performed a head gasket replacement because of this?? :-(

Modern cars dont have a choke, not even an automatic choke. The fuel supplied through the injectors is determined by the sensors & ecu. These will sense the engine temperature and determine the revs and fuel mixture needed... this assessment is made many times per second that the engine is running. When the engine is cold it does what the old chokes used to do but far more efficiently. It is not unusual to have around 500 rpm higher cold start revs when starting with the aircon on. Mine revs around 1500 on start then quickly drops to under 1000, usually after 30 seconds.

We have 2 X ACV40R Camrys and one did have the problem you mention of having erratic throttle response. That car had a new ecu under warranty recall and since then it has been fine. The response in both cars is instant. I have also heard resetting the ecu will correct this sometimes... to clear the ecu remove the negative battery terminal for 30 min or more (I have left it off overnight). I also found with the "learning" auto that if you tend to use manual change down it confuses the system. Leaving it in D it seems to behave more predictably after a while. Throttle body cleaning makes a big difference to these cars too but yours would be too new to benefit from that yet. Using the wrong oil will also give sluggish response. Only use 10-40 or better. Some dealerships throw in higher grade cheaper oil trying to make an extra $. It happened to one of ours... second service they put in 20-50 and the difference was very noticeable!

We have 2 07 Camrys and both are rattle and odd noise free. One did have a rolling marble sound when turning... it was a screw rolling loose in the channeling under the front seats. There are access holes in it so it was easy to get out.

Even my mower wont run on E10.. :-) Use the quality fuel, worth every cent.

It's the person that does the good job, not the dealer you go to. It's all attitude. A few years ago i had 4 alignments done over a period of about 6 months all from different places in an attempt to stop my 00 V6 camry from wandering all over the road. Each aligner found the problem ??? :-( and made their adjustment to make it perfect. Today i still drive a very nice 00 v6 camry that wanders all over the place. Finding anyone that is genuinely interested and also capable these days is almost impossible in any trade. I wish you luck, sorry.

I've been using ethanol E10 in my 2001 V6 Camry now for over 2 years and it loves it. Noticeable improvement in performance and economy and no problems. The worst i've used is the Woolies or Shell(Coles) unleaded.