trentmeyer23

46 minutes ago, Metal_Head said:

Its 18-20% tint....... not limo, had it on every car ive owned and never had this problem. Can you recommend any brighter lights for the rear that will work?

18-20% is illegal, 35% is the darkest legal tint(this percentage includes any factory tinting).

With regards to the other lights, create another thread for those questions. Keep this one on the topic of headlights.

9 hours ago, Metal_Head said:

I find the headlights on mine to be very narrow which has become increasingly noticable since i fitted 18% tint. Pulling into my driveway at night is a guessing game until the car straightens up

Also while im here, i want to upgrade the miserable reverse lights with cree led's. They will be 16w, do i need error free versions?

The reason your headlights are narrow and the reverse lights are miserable, is because you have illegal tint fitted. Of course you won't be able to see anything!

Welcome.

Odds are they didn't blow at the same time.

Aftermarket. Toyota audio units are terrible new, let alone the age that your car is.

3 hours ago, ZRCamry04 said:

Thanks, would you know what sort of globe will fit there, I want to change them to LED.

No, take them out and have a look.

Push the globe inwards and turn.

Trust the dipstick. Do not overfill. Be aware that you will get false readings from residual oil in the dipstick tube.

The longer you let it sit, the closer to the 6.1L figure you will get. Keep in mind, those are dry fill specs and the engine will always have residual oil in it(to a degree).

The drum should have the max measurement stamped on it.

Measure them.

Unless you have all the gear, it's not really a DIY job. 

Best bet is to remove the axle yourself and take it to a workshop to remove and replace the bearing. Will save you labour dollars.

Grinder and a cold chisel.

Getting it on is another story.

Wreckers, eBay or Gumtree.

I picked up a pair for $21...so you have a $7 headunit?

Buy the ISO adapters! Get a Camry to ISO and an ISO to whichever headunit you have. 

Aerpro - APP0141 like below.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F301697532324

Why would you jump straight to replacing the ECM if it is a sensor fault code?

They will likely hang outside the guards.

Nope. Doesn't bother me at all. What does annoy me is when someone dredges up old posts, just to be a pest.

If you are happy with the price and condition, go for it. You will always pay more at a dealer, regardless.

They do have a point with the kms vs price though.

3 hours ago, Harman0623 said:

wow...i thought this forum would be more active than this

Maybe no one has the answer to your question.

Unbraked 750kg

Braked 1500kg

You are going to feel the hurt if you are towing 1500kg though.

I've actually modified a set of jack stands, by welding on 2 pieces of 10mm flat bar, so that I can use them on the pinch weld.

Welcome.

Is the wheel spinning at all? If so, pull the centre cap out and put the wheel back on a lower the car to the ground. Undo from there.

If it is not spinning and you have no access to a rattle gun. Place the socket on the nut by itself and belt the crap out of it a few times, rinse and repeat.

I would also suggest buying a 600mm breaker bar similar to the one below. I personally have two of these and they have held up to much bigger stuff than what you are attempting.

https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/sockets-and-sets/force-1-2-dr-600mm-24-breaker-bar-swivel-head

Not worth that price as an upgrade when compared with the Kluger option.