trentmeyer23

You'll find there is still a fair amount of fuel in the tank when the light comes on. It is common practice.

Have you consulted any wreckers or panel beaters?

Prices will vary from one location to another.

Lost interest?

Cheap, reliable, cheap insurance and easy to get parts for. 

2 hours ago, Ron2018 said:

Thanks trentmeyer23,
Just out of interest which two hiluxes did you swap?

1KD-FTV KUN26r. Engine from a wreck into a vehicle that had its engine cooked due to a punctured radiator.

The physical should be pretty easy. Swap over any accessories that are different between the two and possibly the sump.

Tricky bit is the injectors. You will need to have the injector codes from the Hiace recognised by the Hilux ECU. Generally, Toyota will be the only place that has the software to do this.

I have done Hilux to Hilux, but not the Hiace to Hilux. The injector issue was the only issue found.

3 hours ago, MIKHALE said:

Also mentions 'Unleaded Fuel' then  'Minimum fuel octane number - 95' ???

All current fuels are unleaded, regardless of their RON.

Welcome.

You will probably benefit from going to a local car audio installer. They will be able to install it and will likely have units on display that you can interact with.

Alternatively, JB Hifi, Supercheap, etc. will have the display boards and any competent auto electrician can install it for you.

17 hours ago, Jon Albiez said:

Service history is OK for the major ones (e.g. fuel filter at 150,000 and the major at 90,000). Not so some of the minor ones. I generally changed the oil every 15,000 in the Elantra with Penrite full synthetic and never had any engine or sludge issues - along with almost all its original compression. I might nudge that down to 10,000 with the Aurion given its tendency to sludge.

I would even consider going lower.

Does the noise change if you open/close the recirculation switch?

Some are green and some are black.

You will typically find black in R-12 systems.

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.compressorworks.com/Upload/Four%20Seasons/documents/Tech%20Tips/English/4S%20376%20O-RING%20COLOR%20CHANGES.PDF&ved=0ahUKEwjn2cPf7tjXAhVRQLwKHeC1BW0QFggfMAE&usg=AOvVaw1Ypm3_Eo0OOnC584rm80kH

Have a look on Youtube. There are plenty of helpful "How to clean MAF sensor" videos.

There are specialist products for MAF cleaning.

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor?

21 minutes ago, nswnotill said:

If this stuff is as good as the promos allege, will it be any good as a preservative to prevent the 'sticky dash' syndrome?

As good as it is, I doubt it. It's only a matter of time before all dashboards go. Not if, but when.

19 minutes ago, GreenFence said:

Is it something I should monitor? 

Yes. If it becomes increasingly oily or sticky, look into getting it replaced.

Yep. I went with the 4 cylinder 5S-FE(there's some of it left).

Be prepared to drop $10,000-$15,000 minimum just for a turbo and all of the associated bits. The engine side of things will set you back far more.

To give an indication, my turbo is worth nearly 4x what most of these cars are worth.

It will cost a hell of a lot of money...trust me, I am one of the few lunatics that have been through this.

Unless you are looking at forced induction, there is no point in doing the pistons and rods. If you are that is another cost again.

Odds are the belt. Tensioner may also be starting to fail. Avoid holding at full lock for extended periods as well.

Potentially. Best to contact Toyota for the exact campaign numbers.

It is probably the amplifier in the unit itself. Especially if it is a cheap one.

Aerospace is a different product to that one.

303 is available here. It is an excellent product.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/303-aerospace-protectant-473ml-trigger-spray-pk-30340

Welcome.

Has it passed 10 years(to the month) since it was manufactured?