trentmeyer23

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

20 bucks pfft. Like I care.

$17.00 to be exact. You know, for health reasons. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WACF0040-Wesfil-Cabin-Filter-RCA164P-RCA178P-8713906100-8713907010/272792824996?epid=1945143551&hash=item3f83b82ca4:g:cYMAAOSwTLxZhpfX

There is not a huge amount of support for the 3VZ-FE engine. I believe that Arias may have done some special orders on pistons for customers in the past. Depends on the budget and how far you go with it. Injectors can be upgraded easily as pretty much anything that will fit a MKIV Supra will fit. Camshafts will probably need to be custom regrinds.

What is your end goal and budget?

I believe the BTR39 sway bar from Whiteline fits as the BTR36 was discontinued years ago. The strut brace the sold for the Gen 3 Camry only fit the 5S-FE and not the 3VZ-FE.

1 hour ago, EasyE said:

I've just had a pin hole happen in my 2007 Aurion, seen and felt it spraying.

Has anyone had a problem with the dealer dodging the issue somehow and not covering it? Towing, parts and labour etc.

It's a 10 year old hose, granted there were issues, but I highly doubt any dealer will offer a warranty on it due to age.

You can pick them up for less than $20. This is a whole new level of being tight...

Sounds like an ignition fault from what you said.

The steel wheels were supplied with the 16 inch wheel models in the 40 series. The 17 inch models had a matching wheel from my experience. The TRD models used a 17 inch Camry Sportivo wheel painted yellow.

13 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Where do find part numbers from Trent ?

You won't be able to access what I use. This is pretty decent.

https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/toyota

2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Like I mentioned before, I think that the 2GR-FE designation to that chassis may have warranted a different style of sump so it can fit.

I stopped being lazy and actually had a look. The sump is exactly same part number(12102-31050) as every other 2GR-FE.

15 hours ago, Akkadian said:

One tiny thing.  It has a full size spare but its a plain steel wheel rather than one of the factory mags.  Is that normal?

Yes. 

If nothing else has been played with, the injectors may be gummed up.

Get some measurements and some steel and start piecing together a frame to house the timber. You will need to remove the old tray prior to starting as I doubt you will find plans.

Some background? When/how did it start occurring?

Possibly the battery, that is where I would start. Might be time to have it tested. 

Bowden's is fairly well regarded.

One topic per subject only. Closed.

48 minutes ago, YotaMan said:

Any feedback on Repco?

What about it?

Welcome.

Wheel and tyre/suspension shops will charge far less.

More info.

Has any attention been payed to the basics, MAF sensor(may be related to the original code) or oxygen sensors?

Without getting a full run down of what diagnostics Toyota have conducted, it is rather difficult to make suggestions, as it may have already been done. This includes any current codes.

If you can obtain a list of the exact inspections they have done and parts they have ruled out; and post it here, it may go a ways to locating your fault.

17 minutes ago, Evan33 said:

Yeah im replacing the pump and filter and plunger seal and wiring for pump toyota said they have seen this happen before but not this bad one of the mechanics said loose connection but this is the original pump never touched. Also as this connection is right at the very top of the tank so unless the tank is on full 100% all the time to the motor over heating i dont think the fuel level would affect the prime power connection to the pump if so it should short the fuse when it overheating.

Nope, I have seen fuse boxes burnt out on many occasions without popped fuses. Fuel pumps are bad for burning out wiring.

The fuel does indeed cool the pump, continuous drawing from the bottom of the tank will reduce the life of the pump.

Most dealership mechanics won't see cars older than 3-5 years old, so take that with a grain of salt. "Old Kev" down at "Bob's Mechanical" would have a better knowledge of these kinds of faults.

1 hour ago, Metal_Head said:

Thing is they dont understand, they can rip me off & make some extra $$ from me now, but i will never be going back there for mechanical work unless i really have to, so they lose.

Yes they do, but they rely on that mentality. Probably costs them $20 - $40 including fluid and labour.

Give some background on the fault, when did it start occurring?

Conditions, timeline of events, was there something that triggered this(other than heat), etc.

Has the car ever had a large ingress of water? Floods, heavy rain, water on electronics?

Do you happen to know any of the code numbers pulled from the vehicle?

35 minutes ago, J Pedd said:

Hi there

Ive also experienced the sticky dashboard problem in my Aurion sportivo. Its now in a terrible state im thinking about just buying a cheap dashboard cover an forget about it. Dont want too but there doesn't seem to be any solutions!  

Not if it is a 2006 built vehicle. 10 years is the cutoff.

Replace the pump and hanger. Odds are, the pump has had a short circuit or drawn a large current due to a blockage.