jaybee

Yep. What exactly are you after? The manuals aren't books anymore. They're either on CD or on Toyota's SARIS website. But you need to be from a dealership to access SARIS. Let me know what you want and i'll get it for you. ~Josh

Pull the disc off and check that your handbrake shoes aren't worn out. Due to the nature of them being leading and trailing type setup, this may be the reason you hear the noise in one direction and not the other ~Josh

Whats to discuss?? That picture looks perfectly normal to me

I've been watching that build on Toymods for a while now. Awesome piece of fabrication. The 1uz was a good enough idea but the GTR running gear is just spastic. Shame he couldn't have kept it pure and had a suitable Toyota AWD setup. Could be a bit impossible using GT4 subframes and driveline and mounting the 1uz east west

Sounds like the normal graunching noise from the brakes to me. Handbrake is integrated into the rear caliper in the zre152. Dealership will most likely tell you its normal and a characteristic of this model.

The oil filter is at the very bottom of the motor. Nowhere for the oil to go but the ground. We wash these all the time with no problems. There are next to no vacuum lines on the 2zr.

Oooooooo red stitching......

Don't judge all dealerships on a bad experience you had at one of them. If this car came into where I work, we'd have no problem spending all the time required to take care of his concerns. ~Josh

Judging by some of the replies in this thread, I dont't think anyone here is a mechanic. I don't mean to offend anybody that has replied but some of the replies in this thread and many others I have read have some very far out ideas. Worn engine mounts is a possibility but very highly unlikely as it is an 08 model with only 5500kms on it. If the shaking only started happening after the oil and filter change then its likely thats what has caused the problem. A 5w oil is much too thin for the 2zr. They have a tendency to use a lot of oil by way of design. I would recommend draining out the 5w and replacing with a 15 or 20w which is what we use at work. If by coincidence something else has gone wrong then it sounds like a rough idle problem. In which case i'd be looking at the ISCV or perhaps a dodgy batch of fuel. But i'm still sticking with my first idea. These are my educated guesses but guesses none the less. Its very hard to diagnose a car wothout actually looking at it. ~Josh

This guy is spot on. The ISCV is exactly what you should be looking at. If you look at it yourself inspect carefully to see if the valve is stiff. Like hard to move by hand. I had to replce the whole throttle body off a 1zz at work for this. You can't buy the valve seperate and the throttle body assembly is nearly $1500. But thats the ONLY one i've had to replace. A bit of a spray with some carby clean should be sweet. Make sure you spray it down the hole in the throttle body before the butterfly too ~Josh

This is exactly what you need to do it. Although the converter I used was about $30 from Jaycar about 4 years ago

This may be of some help Radio Coding Check through your owners manual for the 3 digit code or try the last 3 of your VIN. If you attempt and fail 10 times the radio will be locked out. Then you'll need to take it to a dealership so they can use their yellow box. Dont't bother ringing Toyota with your VIN. The code can be changed by anybody anytime. Who's to say it hasn't been changed before

Haha..No fireball. Just no power steering

Thats what I was thinking.... You're lucky yours hasn't failed yet. The EMPS ECU in these aren't exactly reliable

They're not exactly reliable either. I've got the HV battery out of an NHW11 at the moment. I'm doing diagnosis work on at least one a week.

6 mins for the Prado axle recall or the Yaris? Ha Ha yea I do. Only took Toyota like 10 years to decide to recall them. And by then, most of them were seized on and the ball joints rooted. If they recall another dimmer switch i'll freakin scream. As if the Rav, Echo, Corolla and Camry aren't enough.....

Sounds like you picked up some dodgy fuel to me.

To reduce the amount of glass on the track if you have a bingle while racing.

Yea as Robie said, the seats don't actually need to be removed so about 10mins is all it takes. As with most of the recalls on Toyotas, you do it by the book the 1st time and work out the fastest way to do it the next. Just like those damn Hilux bonnet recalls. The 1st one took me like 2.5 hours but got it down to about an hour for next few. Thankfully my foreman decided they were a good job for the apprentices and I didn't have to do too many.

Figure I should let you all know whats going on as I work in the technical side of a Toyota dealership. I have read the bulletin and carried out one of these recalls. The exhaust problem has nothing to do with any Australian delivered Yaris's. It is a fault with the EGR (exhaust gas re-circulation) system which is not fitted to any of our models so theres no need to worry about that. The seatbelt problem doesn't actually have anything to do with the seatbelt, kinda. There is a piece of foam jammed underneath the seatbelt pre-tensioner which has to be removed as it poses a safety threat. Supposedly in the event of an accident, when the pre-tensioner is fired to lock the seat belt in place, there is possibilty that this will cause the foam to catch on fire. Toyota pay for 0.8 of an hour for us to do it but it really only takes about 10 mins plus paper work. So its really not a major problem. There are approximately 43,000 vehicles affected in Australia. There are tons of recalls on Toyotas going around most of which are very minor. Its just that this time the media got hold of it and it spread like wildfire. ~Josh

Un-breakable my butt

The best way to flush the cooling system is to remove one of the heater hoses (one of the 2 hoses going into the firewall), jam your garden hose in it, take the radiator drain plug and the cap off and turn the hose on. You'll need to flush it for a while ( 10 or 15 mins AT LEAST). Even if the water is coming out is clear, once you put coolant back in it, you'll see the 2 colours at the rad cap opening and have to do it all over again. The problem with the mixing of the red and green coolants is that some sort of chemical reaction occurs and causes corrosion which will block your rad. and heater core. Make sure you bleed the system thoroughly. Air-locks are a bitch. NOTE: For older cars with a heater tap, you'll have to turn your heater to the full hot position when flushing and bleeding. Newer cars have an air mix flap which diverts air flow, not coolant flow. ~Josh

How exactly would i be 'adjusting' the springs though? I was just planning to put back the springs that originally came with the coilovers i.e. 3kg front and 3kg rears. The bottom strut mount? I was under the impression that to adjust the height you just wound the coils up or down and I've mentioned that they're both pretty much down to the max. Sorry if i misunderstood anything. If you want to adjust the spring pre-load, you need to thread the lower spring perch up or down which will compress the spring. Generally the pre-load should be the free length of the spring minus 8mm. So basically if the spring free length is 200mm it should be 192mm while installed in the car. This is NOT how you adjust the height of the car. If anybody has adjusted their height that way then your springs are most likely not captive which is dangerous, will give an inferior ride quality and will shorten the life of your shock absorbers because they are not working in their correct range. (Which is the reason you need short stroke shocks if your car has lowered springs in it) To adjust the ride height, you need to thread the lower strut mount up or down. The body of the strut should have a thread all the way to the bottom of the body. The lower strut mount at the front is bolted onto the hub (the bit that holds your brake rotor and caliper). You need to undo the two 19mm bolts, pull the hub out of the way of the strut and you should be able thread that lower mount up and down the strut body. Thread it up to lower the car or down to raise it. The rear is the same except the lower mount isn't bolted in the same place, but if can work out how to adjust the front, you should be able to work out the rear. If you are not feeling confident to do this, then I suggest you get a suspension workshop to do it for you as its not something you want to screw up. Or if you live in Sydney and want to drive to Northern Beaches, I may do it for you for a small fee. ~Josh

Adjusting the spring is only going change the ride height slightly and its also going to detsroy the shocks as they won't be working in their optimum range. The only reason you should adjust the spring is to adjust the springs pre-load, or in other words the stiffness. To adjust the height, you need move the bottom strut mount up or down.

Don't bother mate. Once a key has been coded to an ECU, it can't be coded to another.