jaybee

Hi all, Just thought i'd let you guys know The little metal tag you get on the key ring when you buy the car has nothing to do with the coding of the transponder to the ECU. It is the code for the cut of the key. If you lose this tag, the code is also written on the drivers door barrel. The locksmith will use that code to cut an accurate copy.

If I were you, i'd be looking at the air flow meter. Very common fault on these. And the tricky thing is, it won't always turn the MIL on. Although from what you've described, the auto could be a cause also but not likely as i've never had any problems with them ( I'm a pro-tech at a Toyota dealership by the way ). It would be a good idea to check the auto oil level because as you may know, the oil will expand as it heats up which may be why it seems to be better when its warmer.

This should help you. If not, shoot me a PM. Radio coding

Hold 1 and 6 (or 1 4 6 in some radios) then press the on button. SEC should appear on the screen. Hold tune up and press 1. - - - should appear now. Now you have to use the numbers 1 2 3 to enter your code then hold down the 'scan' button (or hold the power button) to enter the code(if you don't know the code, try the last 3 of your VIN) . If the code was right SEC will appear then disappear. If its wrong ERR will appear. You have 10 attempts to get the code right, if not you will have to take it to a dealership so we can pull the radio out and use our yellow box to decode it. Hope that helps ~Josh

And that driveshaft nut can come loose due to excessive wheel bearing play. In other words, if you or someone else has not taken that nut off and then not tightened properly, your wheel bearing is probably rooted. An old trick for stuffed wheel bearings is to just rattle gun the hell out of that nut to sandwhich the bearing back together. ( But only when I have to. ie a cheap customer won't pay for it and i dont want the wheel to fall off) ~Josh

That is so super cool. Why doesn't Australia get any of the good models? I mean you look on the Jap Toyota site and see about 30 awesome models but we only see about 8 or 9 of them. And to add insult to injury they give us the most conservative looking versions of these models. Although, to be honest, they did pick up their game a bit by bringing us the TRD Aurion and Hilux. But is it really too much to ask for an AWD Corolla or a new Supra. (Pleeease Toyota!!)

All engines use oil. No matter how old or new. But if the oil warning light is coming on, there has to be a problem. Especially when a diesel L/C will take around 9 or 10 lts of oil. If you had brought it into my dealership, we would have done something about it. Does the car have any oil leaks? The second sump or rear main are a common one on those. If not, pull off the intake piping at the turbo and check if there is a pool of oil in there. A little bit is normal but not heaps.

Absolutely no damage to your engine at all (listen to Daryl). Unless you bounce off the limiter for a little while (Top Gear Australia anybody?), you've done no damage at all, even then it normally takes a while to do real damage, which is normally just bending a rod or two. Yea nothing serious though

Ha Ha. And don't forget to cut the **** out of your bumper when you fit the cooler. Whether you connect it up or not

In the diagnostic plug, to give the fuel pump constant 12v, short out the Fp and B+ pins. At lease that'll rule out the pump. Fuel pumps don't generally like pumping air. A guy I worked with a while ago blew up a pump by bench testing it without a fuel feed. And also pull out the EFI fuse for 15 secs to clear codes in the ECU memory and then start again.

That would probably be about 90% of what you'd need to complete the job. It looks as though you'd still need a dump pipe and exhaust made and air filter and intake piping. Plus with boost you'd probably want to upgrade the fuel and ignition system to stop your pistons from melting. And i'm not too sure how a standard 1ZZ bottom end would cope with the extra stress. But there's no reason it wouldn't work on low boost pressures only. Around 6 - 8 pounds I spose Personally I wouldn't touch this with a ten foot pole. It looks like just another cheap china kit to me

Flatshifting is quite an expensive hobby to keep :P Hahaha I ****** my gbox 3 times because of flatshifting hahaha... Flatshifting is quite an expensive hobby to keep :P Not if you're good at it. Jamming it in gear without a clutch is not the same as flatchanging So your saying, flatshifting is less strain on the synchro and the gear without using the clutch? I need answers!! :P They actually make gear box's without synchros called a 'dog box'. As long as you get the RPM perfect for the vehicle speed you don't need the synchro. All the synchro does is slow down or speed up the gear you're trying to engage. So if you can manually get the input and output speeds the same, you can change safely without the synchro

Flatshifting is quite an expensive hobby to keep :P Not if you're good at it. Jamming it in gear without a clutch is not the same as flatchanging

When the sportivos first came out I did a bunch of overhauls on these g/box's at my dealership. There was a fault with the synchros which caused them to wear too quickly. Like within the first 20 000kms which is just ridiculous. I'm pretty sure Toyota superseeded the part, so those of you who were lucky enough to complain within the warranty period probably won't have an issue. I also replaced a bunch of shift cables for the 6spds which were causing hard shifting.

Might aswell keep this thread going...

Maybe he's talking about the ae112 sportivo. 7A-FE turbo. I've seen them go for around that price

Did you replace the headgasket? There aren't too many ways for this to happen. The main things that can cause this are exactly what you mentioned. The only other way, which would be extremely unlikely, is a crack between the oil and water galleries in the block. Unless the cylinder block deck is really uneven and the gasket isn't thick enough to take up the uneveness. Goodluck