pirate125

Has anyone on the forum installed a bigger front stabilizer bar on their Sportivo? I know the OEM one is 21mm (I own a JDM Runx) and I am contemplating either purchasing the C-ONE bar which is 24 mm or a set of polyurethane bushings (21mm) that can fit back into the OEM mounts. If anyone has a bigger stabilizer bar installed I would welcome your comments on any noticeable improvements, and for those who have polyurethane bushings installed which have been fitted into the OEM mounts, kindly let me know what brand it is since the only bushings I am seeing are the ENERGY® bushings and they do not fit into the OEM mounts properly.

I cheked the fuel pressure and I got 21 psi so I decided to take back out the fuel filter assembly and I found that the o-ring in the top of the suction cover was not seated correctly. I re-seated the o-ring correctly this time and put everything back together and checked the fuel pressure again and this time it was reading 48 psi. The car starts fine now with no problems.

I changed my spark plugs 15 days ago (put in TRD IK22) and I replaced my fuel filter 9 days ago on my 2001 Runx. Over the past week, I have been having some issues where I experience “hard starting” mainly when the car is cold and generally, it takes a little longer to start. I put back in the old spark plugs (TRD IK20X) last night and this morning it still "hard started", in fact, everytime I touched the accelerator, it bogged down. However, it cleared up after about 2 minutes of driving at 10 km/h after which it did not re-occur. However, it will still "hard start" if the car is left for a period of time. I plan to check the fuel pressure this evening. Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

I live in Barbados and I own a JDM 2001 Runx and I've tried searching the forums to find out where I would be able to purchase the Sportivo pedals but I haven't found any meaningful information. Could anyone on the forum advise me on how I'd be able to purchase a set of these pedals. I have attached a picture of the pedals.

I was finally able to do this over the weekend and I I took off my clutch pedal bracket assembly and still could not get the locknut loosened so I had to end up taking out my clutch master cylinder and I was able to loosen the locknut quite easily once I took it out. Afterwards, I put back on the clutch pedal assembly, clutch master cylinder, bled the clutch system, adjusted the pedal free play and then bled it again. My shifting has really improved now and is no longer as "notchy".

late opinion i know, but the way i did it was i removed all the bolts holding the clutch pedal bracket, and somehow got a spanner in there and losened the nut, fitted the assembly agian, ( top bolt is very fun ) and adjusted the rod till it was good, then then nipped up the bolt with spannner, didnt go super tight as didnt have the room to do so so just nipped it... its all good... Thanks for the reply. I will try to do it this weekend and update this thread.

Has anyone used the C-ONE performance shown below on their ZZE123 vehicles. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...hl%3Den%26lr%3D I am thinking about purchasing this set-up for my ZZE123 JDM Runx but I am a bit concerned at the increase in pressure plate clamping force when I compare the C-ONE set-up to the TRD set-up ( http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_clutch.html ). The increase is approximately 500kg (~1100 lbs) more force which is going to be on the crankshaft thrust bearings and I do not want to wear that thrust bearing prematurely if that’s the effect that installing this kit will have on my engine. Additionally, it doesn’t seem as if I can purchase these parts separately since our local dealer only has the TRD clutch and not the pressure plate (doesn’t know when they’ll get the pressure plate neither can I special-order) and apparently Nengun doesn’t seem to be shipping these TRD items anymore. Hopefully, one of you guys/gals on the forum have the C-ONE kit installed and can give me any positive/negative feedback about the kit or any other possible options/alternatives I may have.

I appreciate all the responses so far however, I am having some difficulty believing that the timing chanin does not need replacement since it is a chain and it can fail (bicycles and motorcycles have chains that pop) and I'd much rather be proactive about it and save my engine than wait for it to fail and have to buy valves, pistons and possibly a cylinder head if it fails whilst in use. Hence the reason why I asked as well to list odometer readings so that I can get a guage as to how long a timing chain can last since none of you guys seemed to have replaced your chains as yet. So again, can I get some odometer readings.

I own a 2001 JDM Toyota Runx and I was wondering if any of you folks have inspected or even replaced your timing chain and tensioner. Additionally, I need to find out what your odometer is reading as this will give me some indication as to the longevity of the chain and the tensioner. Currently, I am at 126000 km and I was thinking of inspecting and/or replacing both of these components in December but figured it would be good to get some feedback as to some of your experiences where replacement of these components are concerned as I wouldn’t want to replace these items if it’s not necessary.

You could purchase the KYB AGX's, they may be a bit more expensive but they're adjustable and not as expensive as the Koni's. With the adjustability, you could adjust them to suit your comfort level. If you're interested, the part number are FRONT LEFT: 734061 FRONT RIGHT: 734060 REAR: 741070 Hope this helps!

Can anyone tell me how they were able to access the lock nut? I tried using a 12mm flare nut wrench but could not get the wrench on properly to break it loose since there was a bracket at the bottom holding the clutch start switch that was preventing me from angling the spanner properly so that I could grip the nut. It doesn't seem possible to take that bracket off either. HELP!!!

Just to update, I installed these yesterday and I really have to agree that they do tremendously improve the steering response. I have not noticed an increase in NVH, however, I did have to go for an alignment after the install since my alignment was thrown out of whack. All in all though, I’d say that it was money well spent and I would advise anyone who is into handling and performance to buy this bushing kit. Additionally, the purchase of another set of control arms can greatly minimize downtime since you can install the bushings on the arms at your convenience and then the installation just becomes a swap.

I bought a replacement arm from one of our local automotive parts stores and the correct part number was stamped on the packaging however, the sleeve was different. Our local dealer did not have anymore in stock. By the way, I PM'ed you a question pertaining to this issue but you never responded. You should check your PM's more often.

I was able to find some OEM “oval” sleeves from an old control arm that was on a vehicle and I’ve posted a picture of the Energy Suspension front control arm kit w/ the OEM sleeve since there was not much information on this kit’s installation on the Internet. Additionally, I’ve also shown a picture of the bushings assembled onto the RH control arm. I have to purchase the LH control arm and install those bushings and when I’m completed the bushing installation, the installation of these arms on my car will be a swap with the OEM ones that are currently installed. I'll post some pictures after I've made the installation as well as give feedback on the performance of these bushings.

The problem that I am having is that the metal sleeve that is supposed to be re-used in the vertical bushing of the arm is straight and it does not have the oval-like bulge in the centre so when I try to put the sleeve into the Energy centre bushing 3304 (according to the instructions) it is not a snug fit and it has a lot of play in it (this "play" is seen to the right of the OEM sleeve in the picture below). I don't think it's supposed to be like that and I was wondering if people had similar problems and if they did, what was done to overcome such problems. Just for the record, I had bought a RH control arm so that I could retrofit it without having any major downtime with my car and let me just say, it's a good thing I went this route if not I'd be in some serious trouble. Looking forward to any positive responses

Did anyone have any problems installing this kit and reusing the OEM sleeve and if so, what was done to rectify this situation? Looking forward to any responses

I am using a 32mm hose attachment as well. That is correct

Maybe this site can be of assistance http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/ However, in searching, I did not see the bearing as it seems that you have to buy the magnetic clutch assembly and the part number is 88410-1A220.

I live in Barbados and I purchased the TEIN BASIC WAGON KIT ( http://www.tein.co.jp/e/products/basic_wagon.html ) for my car along with C-ONE camber plates for the front and C-ONE polyuretahne buhsings for the rear and it dropped my car 50mm in the front and 45mm in the rear. The advantages of using this set-up is that I can have the car corner-balanced to ensure optimum handling. Additionally, the damper is well matched to the springs and the ride is very comfortable and compliant.

No problem. Gald I could be of assistance :)

You can try getting the following bushing kit from this link. Be warned though, some members have reported increased NVH but they are polyurethane so unlike rubber you wouldn't have to be worrying about replacing them anytime soon. For your information, the part number is 8.3120. This site even gives you an installation instructions page that you can download so that you can see step-by-step how to install this product. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prodd...p?prod=8%2E3120

It is quite a burden placed on our engines especially when run hard on the poor gas quality that we get down here, however if it's any consolation, I don't drive fast so pinging and detonation becomes much less of an issue. In terms of the gas quality number, I've heard rumours of RON 89 or RON 90 but I'm not too sure what the exact figure is, either way, it's less than ideal. Thanks again

I own a 2001 Runx Z and live in Barbados and I was wondering if you could give me the part number of the kit that you ordered since I would like to get some front stabilizer bar bushings and any other bushings that I think may be necessary for my vehicle. Look forward to your response

Disregard my two previous messages since I found the answer to my question regarding the front stabilizer bar size on the link shown below, http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=10160

Anyone