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I need your help with some info. Those of you that have the TRD Supercharged Aurions, can you please tell me two things? ...
1) What are your air/fuel ratios above 5000rpm to redline? and
2) What is your ignition advance from 5000rpm to redline?
Any help with this information would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
By Phoenix Starborn
Hi, Thought i would upload a recent issue i had with my 1993 ST184 Celica, 5S-FE Engine, 2.2lt.
I bought this vehicle second hand 18 months ago (Aug 2014), very good condition and only 160000km on it.
After buying it, i wanted to fix up some minor things on the vehicle, so i put a new clutch in (the old one was right near end of life), i replaced some Sensors, Air-con regas, rear liftback struts, relays, egr module, and odd and bobs.
I put a new distributor in , with new leads, plugs etc, and serviced the vehicle.
I seemed to always have a bit of an issue with rough idle, and it also does not have the power and pick up that my last ST184 had. Hoping my booked in Full service/throttle body clean, EGR clean/replace might get her running smooth again, and responsive , as some times it lags and then kicks in with correct power.
Anyway, the main reason for this post was because i ran into a problem recently over the last 5 weeks or so (Early 2016)...that honestly defeated me for the first time, and had to have it taken to a mechanic.
Rough Idle (pretty sure due to major service it needs) Intermittent Starting (sometimes it would start fine sometimes after a few goes also, once or twice i sprayed ether fluid in the intake and that also worked a few time.s) Car cranked fine, battery is pretty new...just would not go at all in the end Eventually one morning , i got in the car to go to work, and no start at all. Diagnostics:
This had me stumped, i had limited tooling etc for Diagnoisis Checked for loose wires, one day i would have spark, in the end i had none. Fuel Pump works. Relays are Good Distributor was near new, leads and plugs also I was leaning toward Ingniter (Ignition Module) OR the ECU itself (after advice from an experienced mechanic) I promptly secured a used Igniter and ECU Independently swapped these out, in both combinations (one at a time with currently installed units, then both parts together...all resulting in stil NO Start) Due to my Job taking up so much time, and i live remotely from much help, i ended up having it towed to a workshop. Long story short, the ignition system, ECU, Distributor, Igniter, Fuel delivery, Ignition Switch.........ALL were just fine!! What it turned out to be, was the two Plugs that plug onto the Distributor were "BAD" on the inside, they looked ok from a visual inpsection, the wires weren't loose or coming out. So $34 worth of plugs, splice into wiring harness, and away she goes again like normal. Summary:
If you have limited diagnostic tooling, or spare components to swap out for fault finding. Highly recommend really checking your electrical connectors and wiring for chaffing, loose, broken wires....and in my case (not sure i would have found it after hours of frustration) check your connectors. Especially in my case where i ended up with no spark at all, even though it was mostly ok for 5 weeks aside for intermittent starting, in the end it just died. All it was , were the two plugs that go onto the sides of the Dizzy. I think one is the Crank Angle Sensor (or similar - as it's inside the Dizzy & the other is the Coil Plug) So i sure hope this helps someone out, as my car was off road for 11 days, while i was trying to figure this out, spent $360 on parts i did not need, when all it was were two electrical plugs worth $34
Hello my wife's car recently wouldn't start.
After driving it for a few hours in the afternoon we came home, then 20mins later went to go out and the car wouldn't turn over. At first it seemed like a flat battery; no interior lights, dash lights wouldn't come on etc.
Strange thing is after a few seconds or so the dash would come on and so would the interior lights, though the headlights don't work.
I go to crank it over after I wait for the dash to illuminate and when I turn the key the dash goes black similar to when you have a dead battery and a clicking noise comes from the ECU.
I release the key and the dash lights back up after a second or two and then the lights kind of flicker for a bit.
I've checked the voltage on the battery and cleaned the terminals. Next thing i'm looking to do is try check over the ignition fuses and then look to jump start the engine
If you have any ideas or help please that would be great, even just a some direction as to where to look next.
By Salt Ash Traveler
Has anyone fitted a Portman turbo timer to a late model (mine is 2012) SR5 Hilux 4x4, I am trying to find the correct wires to connect to, it says to connect the Red wire to the Main 12 volt lead at the harness (Target wire registers voltage at all times) I've found 2 that fit that description, a black with red stripe and a white with red stripe.
Connect the Blue wire to switched wire at the harness (target wire registers voltage when ignition key is turned to the ON position AND the START position) this would be the Blue / Red Wire.
Connect the Yellow wire to switched wire at the harness (target wire registers voltage when ignition key is turned to the ON position ONLY when turned to the Start position the target wire registers Zero voltage) I cant find this wire at all??? ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
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