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ZZT86 last won the day on May 30 2017

ZZT86 had the most liked content!

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About ZZT86

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    Advanced Member

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  • Toyota Model
    86 & Camry V6
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
  • Annual Mileage
    20,001 to 25,000

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  1. Longer Lasting High Mileage Engine Oil

    ^^ The seals in question are those for the camshaft & crankshaft ideally done as a kit with pulleys when your timing belt was done. Your head gasket was replaced? Overheated, cooling issues? Perhaps you meant cam/rocker cover seal ? Yeah an engine mount could be shot - inspect.
  2. ACV36R Air Location Selector not working

    Fuse - just guessing. I changed the globes on my dads recently & it's pretty much plugs to the back of the board, unless the pot which is soldered to the board has become loose ? I would re-inspect the board/pot switch if the fuse is OK.
  3. Check also engine mount/s.
  4. Longer Lasting High Mileage Engine Oil

    My MCV20R has just ticked over 100K kms, was my godfathers who did 75K in 16.5 years. 2 weeks ago I did the cars first timing belt change inc factory water pump, pulleys, seals & both VBelts on my m8 mechanics recommendation based on age alone. I watched him pull the old belt off & quickly picked the oil seals str8 out in 1 piece each, all seals were still soft & rubbery, not hard & brittle like many. The OE belt was not frayed or cracked & looked great to be honest - it goes to prove the quality of the engine & how it was looked after. Presume you have 5S-FE ? Is yours leaking from seals or cam cover ? When was the last time you had the timing belt done & all its seals ? My old gen7 celica with the 2ZZ-GE did more than 300K kms on my watch in 13 years before I reluctantly sold it, it was well looked after with very regular oil changes & I always used Helix HX7 10W30 semi-synth & it never leaked a drop of oil anywhere anytime & despite the hi-revving nature of the engine, it never used any oil either. Essentially my point is . . . if you look after your Toyota fair chance it it will last . . . a very long time :)
  5. Longer Lasting High Mileage Engine Oil

    Depends on condition & mileage of engine, no reason not to use full synthetic if engine is in great condition & has low kms. My MCV20R Camry with the 1MZ-FE requires 5W30 & I use the full synthetic, car OCI is now approaching 15K kms & hasn't used a drop of oil & is still a light golden colour.
  6. Longer Lasting High Mileage Engine Oil

    As a general rule, always use the grade/weight of oil recommended by the manufacturer as the engine has been designed to use it, ie: Toyota manual states 0W20 for the 86's FA20 which has tight tolerances & should use this grade oil.
  7. Longer Lasting High Mileage Engine Oil

    Preventing oil from degradation & making it go the distance is very dependent on how the car is treated & driven. Lots of short trips will invite fuel & water dilution which will acidify & slowly destroy the oils additives pack. Performing a UOA can prove the state of an oil. This is why it's important to get the oil "hot" to help burn off these unwanted contaminants. After time the additives will become depleted after which the engine becomes a sitting duck ! I now only use Full Synthetic oils in my cars, they're stronger, cleaner & stay in grade for longer but I wouldn't take it beyond my Camrys 15K km service interval, just my personal preference.
  8. Latest News 2018 Camry New V6

    I get the distinct impression journos are often "bought" to comment in reviews. As Ronald above stated, the SL appears to be the slush version so the suspension tune would obviously be set accordingly, the "Sportivo" - ahem SX version would be the best bet for the V6, it would be my choice if I was in line for a new car. I too am confused by their economy & resale ratings. To me both would score highly especially the economy given the size/weight of the car powered by a 3.5L V6, I like !
  9. 2017 Toyota Aurion - Rough ride?

    Thanks John, My Camry Azura is a nice with very low kms but your Aurion is much nicer & far more advanced too. I would love an Aurion for a daily but I'm unwilling to spend to get one especially considering I have a weekend toy that's an 86 :/ Enjoy your Aurion as they are a rippa car.
  10. 2017 Toyota Aurion - Rough ride?

    Could be age related, the newer the car the stiffer the ride but a very subjective issue. Having said that 3 weeks ago I replaced the struts complete on my 2001 Camry V6 for std height King Springs & Sachs dampers & although firmer than what it was the dampers are now more effective soaking up most of the roads harshness & find it more comfortable than the old stock setup. Would honestly prefer an even firmer setup but I'm happy with it now. I'll post a write-up of parts used & tips in the next few weeks :)
  11. Roof lining issue.

    Just get a colour that's close which is what I did and it turned out fine as the headlining is separated by plastic trim panels & the rest. I got mine from AFD - http://www.afdaustralia.com.au/headlining/ Can also look at http://vyfab.com/product-category/velour/headlining/ or http://www.daleys.com.au/ Adhesive - https://www.autobarn.com.au/permatex-px-bs-hdlnr-adh-16-75-oz-ae-27828 I also slathered the metal roof with 12mm Acoustic Liner foam which is also an insulator to help reduce heat. Finished job came up a treat.
  12. Fog lamps

    I never had an issue with fog lights on during the night or day regardless of weather conditions or law unless the foggies were actually driving lights like those on a VT SS commodore - they were just too damn bright to be foggies. DRL's on the other hand are meant to be on ALL the time & will either dim or switch off completely when the headlights are switched on. Yep they're bright, perhaps as bright as a foggy, they're there for a reason & it's called SAFETY, should have been made mandatory fitment & law decades ago as many people appear to be colour blind regardless of conditions &/or some colours tend to blend with the surroundings - with DRL's you stand out ! Hooray for DRL's :)
  13. Petrol

    Always an interesting watch but I do believe he's done a backflip on his previous clip re the subject !
  14. Petrol

    My point is if the fuel is bad or lesser than minimum required then the ecu would have to retard timing based on info from the knock sensor, ie: if the engine is pinging its head off. Some cars are so bad I hear them before they even pass me. The ecu is a learning/adaptive device but it can only do so much to protect itself, the rest is up to motor strength & time before it all goes kaboom hence why I use a higher octane fuel than recommended. I also have a very sensitive butt dyno ;) I'm aware of variable compression engines in the pipeline as @campbeam has pointed out above but not aware of any currently on the road. My understanding is you can vary boost pressure on the intake but the engines physical maximum compression does not change until Nissan & others release their stuff in the next year or so. I got a wake up call regarding a lot about tuning when I got to see ecu logs of different fuels on the same motor. On 98 the engine has its timing reduced as it silently pings away reducing maximum output & acceleration for a given rpm, on E85 there is little if any ping & is able to perform to it's potential without retard in timing giving maximum acceleration. Not saying everyone should run E85 because you can't without a tune at least but it's an extreme example of the difference in knock/ping versus fuel type/RON used. The higher the octane the higher the resistance to knock.
  15. Petrol

    So if your average car is designed & tuned to run on 91 octane fuel but you really have 89 octane or less in the tank will the car produce the same power & give you the same mileage as was intended & at what cost to the engines longevity ? I'm not aware of any variable compression engines - care to mention some ?